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DIY Sound Deadening and Carpet. RATSUN Style.


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God damn it..... this is a thread that I should not have looked at! I now want to do this to our 510 and 521...... on top of a thousand other things. <_<

 

All of these pictures make them look so nice! But, it's all fantastic references for future projects on ours. And all three of our Dattos have been covered in here now..... nicely done gentlemen! :lol:

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God damn it..... this is a thread that I should not have looked at! I now want to do this to our 510 and 521...... on top of a thousand other things. <_<

 

All of these pictures make them look so nice! But, it's all fantastic references for future projects on ours. And all three of our Dattos have been covered in here now..... nicely done gentlemen! :lol:

 

And it makes so much of a difference in the ride when you have the windows up, and do the roof! I have mine deadened and insulation under the headliner and it is so cool not having that damned pinging sound inside when it rains. The other plus is the stereo sounds better too!

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And it makes so much of a difference in the ride when you have the windows up, and do the roof! I have mine deadened and insulation under the headliner and it is so cool not having that damned pinging sound inside when it rains. The other plus is the stereo sounds better too!

 

Damn I should have thought of that before we put the new headliner in argh !!! KIller write killer job !!! Mad props Bro !!!

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

i was also wondering what you guys used for your doors?

im doin all that this weekend so I wanna see how it goes.

 

I wish i knew what to use to cover the pillar and the bottom part of it that's under the door frame. 

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I used the peel and stick stuff. Now wishing I hadnt. Im actually going to rip some off right now...

why do you regret it?

Is adhesive good for the foam?

I was planning to not use adhesive on the foam until i read more and realized he used contact cement.

I'm not sure what I should use for the foam and carpet. I don't wanna put screws in the carpet because if a retarded friend of mine pulls on the carpet or something, the carpet might rip. 

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http://www.raamaudio.com/raammat-bxt-ii-bulk-pack-20-sheets-37-5-sq-ft-real-automotive-sound-deadener-best-there-is-for-the-money-period-please-click-to-see-product-description/



A
mazing product. Perfect quality. Sticks like glue and easy to apply. I wouldn't use ANYTHING else. I've done my ENTIRE car with it. 

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I regret it for a few reasons.

 

This dense butyl/tar stuff doesnt really stop sound, what it does when applied to sheet metal, is add mass, and therefore reduce panel vibrations. Now instead of plastering the whole interior you could just use a small amount in the center of each panel, where it is likely to vibrate the most.

 

Closed Cell foam does a much better job at killing sounds.

 

But even better is Decoupling. here you would more likely use the peel'n'seal like I just described. Then you would run a layer of the closed cell foam. And finally, you get to plaster! Plaster the top side of the foam with the peel'n'seal, or any other hard, heavy, flexible material.

 

What this will do, as the panel vibrates, the foam will mush the vibrations and stop it from getting to the last layer, which since its not vibrating, its not making noise.

 

 

Put really, this stuff is a pain if you ever want to remove it for any reason. Factory sound deadening is easier to remove.

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http://www.raamaudio.com/raammat-bxt-ii-bulk-pack-20-sheets-37-5-sq-ft-real-automotive-sound-deadener-best-there-is-for-the-money-period-please-click-to-see-product-description/

 

 

 

Amazing product. Perfect quality. Sticks like glue and easy to apply. I wouldn't use ANYTHING else. I've done my ENTIRE car with it. 

I dont want too much sound gone, i feel like the fun of cars is hearing them roar.

but i'll see if i have enough to afford this 

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I regret it for a few reasons.

 

This dense butyl/tar stuff doesnt really stop sound, what it does when applied to sheet metal, is add mass, and therefore reduce panel vibrations. Now instead of plastering the whole interior you could just use a small amount in the center of each panel, where it is likely to vibrate the most.

 

Closed Cell foam does a much better job at killing sounds.

 

But even better is Decoupling. here you would more likely use the peel'n'seal like I just described. Then you would run a layer of the closed cell foam. And finally, you get to plaster! Plaster the top side of the foam with the peel'n'seal, or any other hard, heavy, flexible material.

 

What this will do, as the panel vibrates, the foam will mush the vibrations and stop it from getting to the last layer, which since its not vibrating, its not making noise.

 

 

Put really, this stuff is a pain if you ever want to remove it for any reason. Factory sound deadening is easier to remove.

 

The small portions as in more than the first few pics posted?

but i get the idea of decoupling. what vinyl mass would you be using? I probably won't go to that extent because I don't want that quiet of a car.

I will go with tite seal then foam, then carpet.

I was planning to put around two on each floor panel.

 

a couple on the firewall and what not.

Just to get the majority of the area but not every square inch.

 

then use one of these, not sure what to go with yet,

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=closed+cell%20foam&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All

 

once this is laid (unaware of how to stick it done yet)

carpet gets laid. 

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Just cover it like you said, major areas, but dont worry about getting to all the corners. Corners are where the folds of the metal are, and doest vibrate as strongly there.

 

Vinyl mass? Im not sure yet, but I recently found a company nearby me that sells vinyl mass, like in the 1lb/sqft range.

 

For foam, I ordered some stuff off of Ebay, called volara. You can also look at a product called Ensolite, its pretty common for this usage.

 

And for adhesive, I would look at spray contact adhesives. When properly applied, they stick super well

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Just cover it like you said, major areas, but dont worry about getting to all the corners. Corners are where the folds of the metal are, and doest vibrate as strongly there.

 

Vinyl mass? Im not sure yet, but I recently found a company nearby me that sells vinyl mass, like in the 1lb/sqft range.

 

For foam, I ordered some stuff off of Ebay, called volara. You can also look at a product called Ensolite, its pretty common for this usage.

 

And for adhesive, I would look at spray contact adhesives. When properly applied, they stick super well

 

Sounds perfect! I can use 3m for the foam. I'm hoping that should do the trick.

 

I'll see what lowes and home depot have to offer for the foam.

 

Thanks for the help.

 

I'll show my results sunday unless I decided to order foam online, then maybe a bit longer.

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I use the spray on rubber undercoating for the inside of my doors and behind the quarter panel cards. It is much easier and almost completely eliminates the tinny sound of the sheet metal flexing as I roll down the road. It also makes closing the door sound nice and solid. In addition to being easy and hydrophobic, it does not weigh 50lbs or cost an arm and a leg. After about two days it is fully cured and the smell goes away then,  its like a 30 year old car instead of a 41 year old car. I have done this on all of my cars since the 80's, and have never had a problem. This summer, the 1200 will be getting this treatment for the underside of the hood and trunk lid, those two panels sound like the recycling truck coming down the road with all that Jtin flopping in the wind and hitting bump stops. If I ever have a headliner replaced, I will definitely spray the roof, that is a great tip I would have overlooked.

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I use the spray on rubber undercoating for the inside of my doors and behind the quarter panel cards. It is much easier and almost completely eliminates the tinny sound of the sheet metal flexing as I roll down the road. It also makes closing the door sound nice and solid. In addition to being easy and hydrophobic, it does not weigh 50lbs or cost an arm and a leg. After about two days it is fully cured and the smell goes away then,  its like a 30 year old car instead of a 41 year old car. I have done this on all of my cars since the 80's, and have never had a problem. This summer, the 1200 will be getting this treatment for the underside of the hood and trunk lid, those two panels sound like the recycling truck coming down the road with all that Jtin flopping in the wind and hitting bump stops. If I ever have a headliner replaced, I will definitely spray the roof, that is a great tip I would have overlooked.

you mean leak seal? the stuff at home depot and what not? it's rustoleum too i believe.

I havent driven my car since I'm fixing my tunnel tomorrow to see the results.

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  • 1 month later...

I am getting ready to do this in my maxima, I have the complete dash and HVAC system out and just removed the old nasty firewall pad. I was considering using the peel and seal, but I am afraid since I am in Arizona and it gets hot as balls here the peel and seal will smell like tar once it gets hot and once it gets heated up from long trips as well. anyone have any experience with this?

 

from my reading, the difference is that the actual dynamat like stuff, is butyl based and wont smell, but the peel and seal is asphalt or tar based and will.

 

opinions?

 

 

remember, Arizona, its freakin hot here, the roads are 135 ish in the summer, and the firewall can get close to 200 in some cars, this heat is no joke.

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