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New clutch...throwout bearing making loud whining noise?


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#1 CBCO85Nissan720

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Posted 22 June 2012 - 08:47 AM

I just put a new clutch in my 85 Nissan 720 4x4. The 1st couple of days the clutch worked well but now it is starting to make a loud whining noise when clutch is pushed in. I think it is the throwout bearing. It only happens when the engine is cold but then it stops after I drive it for awhile. When its bad in the morning the truck doesnt want to go in reverse without grinding. Any suggestions?

#2 Zeusimo

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Posted 22 June 2012 - 09:10 AM

Did You Grease The Bearing?
Noise Should Go Away After Every Ball In The Bearing Gets Grease
When I Changed The Clutch In My Truck It Did That
Drove If For An Hour And Went Away

For The Grinding You Might Have Not Aligned The Clutch Right..
But I Don't Think So
I'm Just Stupid 18yo Kid,
WITH A DATSUN!!!

#3 ggzilla

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Posted 22 June 2012 - 01:53 PM

They are sealed bearings -- how can you grease each ball in the bearing?
Here today gone tomorrow

#4 datzenmike

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Posted 22 June 2012 - 02:18 PM

Can I assume from your post that you replaced the clutch but re-used your old bearing??? This is a no no on a high wear, inexpensive, difficult to get at item. A new stiff pressure plate will stress them... Always replace the old bearing.

Some, maybe even most are now sealed but I've packed a release bearing before.

Grinding is likely air in the hydraulic clutch line, or it's leaking now from being removed to replace the clutch. Check the fluid level in the clutch master and bleed the system.

youregdright.jpg


#5 CBCO85Nissan720

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Posted 24 June 2012 - 08:17 PM

I used the new throw out bearing but did not grease it as it was a sealed bearing. Also I have bled the line multiple times. The odd thing though is there are 2 bleed points. 1 leading from the master cylinder to the opposite side of the truck into a bleed box that leads to the slave cylinder where there is the typical bleed point for the clutch. The master cylinder and the slave cylinder were both replaced when the clutch was replaced.

#6 ggzilla

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Posted 24 June 2012 - 08:24 PM

You are supposed to grease throwout bearing, even sealed ones. Where you grease is inside the sleeve/holder, where the fork/lever meets the bearing, and throwout fork ball pivot. Where you don't grease is the actual ball bearings.

The grinding is likely because it is not fully adjusted. 90W is very thick when cold, when it warms up it will thin out. Clutch adjustment is important for this. Probably not a bleeding problem.
Here today gone tomorrow

#7 CBCO85Nissan720

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Posted 25 June 2012 - 04:45 PM

Thanks ggzilla and everyone else for all the info. I'm going to work on my truck in the next few days and I'll let you all know how it goes.

#8 Sealik

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Posted 25 June 2012 - 05:06 PM

I always place (habit) in first gear before I select reverse...much less tendency to grind gears
I've never greased a new or old throw out bearing,... just the...... "sleeve/holder, where the fork/lever meets the bearing, and throwout fork ball pivot"....

Confirmed it was in good shape...no debris.... etc
Never any issues...so far :D

#9 CBCO85Nissan720

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Posted 29 July 2012 - 10:49 AM

Hey everyone...after everything it turned out that I got a bad pilot bearing. I replaced it yesterday and all seems good. So I pulled the engine to replace the pilot bearing and to go ahead and replace some gaskets...now after everything in the clutch runs great I go to shut off the engine...the key turns to off but the engine wont shut off. What I believe is the Auto Choke Relay which is attatched to the same mounting bracket as the Fuel Pump Relay started buzzing and would not stop until I unplugged it. When unplugged the engine starts and stops with the key fine. Could this all be coincidence or did I hook something up incorrectly when reassembling the motor? Any thoughts?

#10 ggzilla

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Posted 30 July 2012 - 03:20 PM

For the last quesion (about the engine failing to stop), see http://community.rat...iew__getnewpost

Glad to hear the clutch is now fixed. Congrats.
Here today gone tomorrow