Double_d Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 Hey ratsun, I could your help. So I recently got my car started again and now I ran into another problem. The car doesn't click when turning the ignition switch and when i crank it doesn't crank and starter doesn't do anything. Before this happened this is what I did. I started with my wire tuck and moved the fuse box in the cabin right under where the fuse box usually would be if it were under the hood. What I did to diagnose what "might" be the problem since I have some experience in electrical. Battery runs at 12.3-13V so its not the battery. Also tossed the new battery cables and put new ones. New starter installed 4-5 days ago. Also bought a new ignition coil / ballast resistor. New NGK spark plug wires. So after this, I new it was nothing in the engine compartment that might be causing this problem. Also before I did the wire tuck, all connections were good and the car would start. The only thing I did different during the wire tuck, was move the fuse box and did a little wire cleaning so it's not a big mess. So my conclusion so far is, it might be the ignition fuse or at least the ignition switch went out? I hope this was detailed enough for some of you to help me somehow. Thanks. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 5 ratsuners in the last week solve those symptoms by cleaning the battery cables, so do that now even if it looks new/good. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 There is no Ignition fuse. There are several fuses that run off the ignition circuit though. Take out each one, test them (don't rely on visual inspection only) and put them back in. When you turn key to ON/Run the gauge lights should come on. If they don't, check the Fusible Link on the positive battery cable. Quote Link to comment
Double_d Posted June 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 where would these fuses be locateD? my wires are all taped up, and the one i can only see is the one on the fuse box. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 All the fuses are in the Fuse Box, there should be a bunch of them not just one. The only separate fuses might be for radio and air conditioning. Quote Link to comment
Double_d Posted June 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 i meant the fusible links haha, i know where the fuses are for the fuse box. None are blown. :( ... is the fusible link between the alternator and starter? Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 Make sure you still have the wired connected to the starter. Its a spade terminal. Black yellow is the wire color. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 Does everything else turn on in the car? if so I really doubt the fusible links. It has to be a loose wire. Either at ignition switch, starter, or any of the connections between those points. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 When you turn key to ON/Run the gauge lights should come on. If they don't, check the Fusible Link on the positive battery cableis the fusible link between the alternator and starter? Nope, the Fusible Link is on the Positive Battery Cable. Very close to the battery. It does not connect to the starter (the positive Battery Cable itself does). Fusible Link connects the main wiring harness to the the positive battery cable. As noted, this is only an issue if you gauge lights do not come on. If everythign is dead, check the fusible link Quote Link to comment
Double_d Posted June 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 gauge lights do not come on, the only time the gauge lights come on is when i switch on the headlight / dash switch. When i turn the ignition ON/Run, i still don't here the "click" that it used to make when it was running Quote Link to comment
Double_d Posted June 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 also, there isn't anything connected to the positive battery cable. I changed the battery cable and connected it the way it was before. There is another cable connected to my starter other than the battery itself. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 Well if you do get lights on, fusible link is fine. As all power comes from the fusible link. Have you tried jumping the starter solenoid to make sure its not a dead starter/solenoid? Do you have a test light? I would check to see if the Black/yellow wire going to the starter (signals the solenoid to close the contacts within), is feeding the solenoid the required 12v. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 If a previous owner has modified the wiring ... all bets are off about Fusible Link or even the other fuses. There is another cable connected to my starter other than the battery itself.What does that other cable look like? Size? Color? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 The fusible link may not be on the cable on most 510s. In this 510 photo, the FL is the red wire I think, it connects directly to the starter BAT terminal The White wire I think is the main harness feed wire. Quote Link to comment
Double_d Posted June 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 Well if you do get lights on, fusible link is fine. As all power comes from the fusible link. Have you tried jumping the starter solenoid to make sure its not a dead starter/solenoid? Do you have a test light? I would check to see if the Black/yellow wire going to the starter (signals the solenoid to close the contacts within), is feeding the solenoid the required 12v. And yes, I tried jump starting through the starter. when i contact the + to - the starter goes on meaning there is power going through. If a previous owner has modified the wiring ... all bets are off about Fusible Link or even the other fuses. What does that other cable look like? Size? Color? I'll take a picture of it. Quote Link to comment
Double_d Posted June 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 The fusible link may not be on the cable on most 510s. In this 510 photo, the FL is the red wire I think, it connects directly to the starter BAT terminal The White wire I think is the main harness feed wire. Yup, that's what i have. So that wire is the fusible link? Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 The clip you see is the start of the fusible link. Still lights on means that is good. Since starter turns over we know that is good. You need to start checking things with a test light/multi meter... Quote Link to comment
Double_d Posted June 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 so since my headlights turn on which means the fusible link is good, fuses are good, i'm guessing it's the ignition switch failing? Quote Link to comment
Double_d Posted June 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 The clip you see is the start of the fusible link. Still lights on means that is good. Since starter turns over we know that is good. You need to start checking things with a test light/multi meter... I have one, but left it at work :T Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 so since my headlights turn on which means the fusible link is good, fuses are good, i'm guessing it's the ignition switch failing? Dont guess, know. Know by testing. This is where a test light comes in, or a multimeter. I dont know your car, but I doubt the ignition switch just went out. Double check all electrical connections, specifically at anything you touched in the process of moving your fusebox. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 You can test the ignition switch with an ohmmter, which is the most direct way. A test light will work too. Unscrew the ignition switch from rear of the key lock cylinder Check ohms between S and B terminals. Should be infinite ohms (no reading) Turn switch with screwdriver to Start and hold it there. Ohms between S and B should be 0 ohms. If that does not test out, get another ignition switch. Quote Link to comment
Double_d Posted June 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 You can test the ignition switch with an ohmmter, which is the most direct way. A test light will work too. Unscrew the ignition switch from rear of the key lock cylinder Check ohms between S and B terminals. Should be infinite ohms (no reading) Turn switch with screwdriver to Start and hold it there. Ohms between S and B should be 0 ohms. If that does not test out, get another ignition switch. ok thanks! So test it while its not on the car? kinda like how it is on the above picture? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 Yes, i should have said unplug it, then remove it. There are other ways to test it, but I find this is the easiest to understand. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 I would just put the key to ON and ck the blk white wire for 12volts(or test light)This wire should be by coil or to the ballast resisitor . Then ck the Blk /blu wire for 12volts with key in START( remove the starter wire so the motor dont turn over) Now if you gets 12volts on both those 2 places the car should start. If you have a ballast resisitor make sure you have that wires correct If still using a point distributor ck the points reseat the ignition plug in back of the key switch. dime quarterly had a simplified wire chart which would help as I cant post it.soemnbody please post this This is simple. As Leacean said if the lights come ON then you have the fusable link feed wire hooked up. There is a ignition fuse then it will route to the key switch ect....... Quote Link to comment
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