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putting turbo on z24 engine


nissan720

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is it possible to add a turbo from a 200sx engine to the z24 engoine?i fgound a 200sx 1984 model in a local salvage yard cheap.i was looking at the engine.it looked almost identical to my z24 thats in my truck.except for the fuel injection.i want to know will the turbo manifold bolt up to my engine?is there a difference in the head?any help is appreciated.

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Not possible. The 200SX turbo engine is the CA18, it's totally different head, manifold, most everything.

 

Even though Datsun added turbo to the Z18 engine. No, you'd have to do some custom fabrication. Only a few guys have added a turbo to a Z24.

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Hey with enough fabrication, anything is possible. I'm considering this myself...perhaps not for real, but in theory. Just have to weld yourself a new manifold to mount a turbo to and intercooler piping, and up the jets on your carb or swap to a better fuel delivery system. Like I said in theory this would be fun to attempt.

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Hey with enough fabrication, anything is possible. I'm considering this myself...perhaps not for real, but in theory. Just have to weld yourself a new manifold to mount a turbo to and intercooler piping, and up the jets on your carb or swap to a better fuel delivery system. Like I said in theory this would be fun to attempt.

 

Thats the spirit!!

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you could always buy the manifold from JGS Turbo for the ka24E they make some good ones(theres others too) and just port it to match the z24, not much off. it will bolt up, bolt pattern is identical. just the ports are off.

Or if you can weld, make a log manifold..or do weld els and make your own ram horn style!

 

blow thru holley carb for the cold side, get a 2300 350 cfm 2bbl and do the carb mods on Hanger 18, Turbo forums. get a good fuel pump and a bypass type regulator alot of reading on the mentioned forums!! and your done!!

 

And they are bad ass, dont worry about the poor naps Z head flow, those ports will be flowing!!

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Vacuum advance is done by 2,200-2,500 anyway which just leaves the centrifugal. Stock pistons shouldn't be run above 7-9 PSI (yes I know your friend's friend's cousin ran 19 on his stockers but it won't live long doing that) '80s factory motors were regulated for about 6PSI for a reason. If you run an oil cooler, water/alcool injection, inter cooler, cool air intake and some kind of knock sensor/ignition retard you could run more.

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It's that easy? You can use the stock spark advance, with no worries about burning a piston?

Well it's never as easy as it seems on paper or someone telling you how to do it....yes there is alot of work to do it all custom..but i have done 2 of these 1 V8 and a napz22.. and it is well worth it for the fun factor alone..I am simply trying to encourage others to try it out! He wants to do it..I have done it, i think he should give it a try..never know till you try!

The timing on mine is all centrifugal, no vacuum. Just keep your total advance down and it will be o.k., I've got mine at about 19 degrees.

PS this 22 has seen 20psi many times! stock everything...i know..that is why i'm swapping to forged internals as we speak

.

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You can run 20 but there's increased risk of detonation, and it happens fast and often over before you know it. 20 PSI is (in theory) about 2 1/2 times the power output so that's 2 1/2 times the heat produced on a motor not ever designed to handle it. The head and the piston tops start to get really hot and can't get rid of the heat fast enough. If you can keep the temperatures down you can run it. Short blasts add up over time and just when you should let off you give it just a few seconds more, because, lets face it, turbos are addictive, and the piston tops soften and fall into the oilpan.

 

I always thought that the Z series was perfect for a turbo. Cross flow head keeps the turbo away from the intake and perfect for plumbing an inter cooler. Dual plugs for shorter burn time and less advance. Larger displacement. More efficient hemi head

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With the proper EFI and a programmable fuel curve you can run more boost safely. Stock throttle body injection probably can't adjust enough for boost conditions. Even the zx turbo, CA18ET are factory capable of 5-8 PSI of boost, perhaps more but the best would be something you can map and program yourself. The air/fuel ratio can be carefully precisely tailored to reduce detonation. You can do this cheaper with a blow through carb but a lot of work and not as good.

 

Some form of knock sensor and ignition retard would be good for either too. If the motor should stray into detonation conditions it will reduce the timing and 'calm' it down.

 

The best thing it not to deal with detonation when it happens but to reduce/prevent it from the get go. It's all about reducing heat in the combustion chamber. Cool air from in front of the rad, water/alcohol injection, exact rich fuel mixtures to absorb heat. Have you seen the oil squirters on an RB20 motor? They have fittings that point up into the bottom of the cylinder and spray a cooling mist of oil onto the bottom of the pistons to cool them. (KA24DEs have them also)

 

What the RB20DET piston sees...

oilsquirtersRB20motor003Large.jpg

 

 

Looking up into the cylinder.

oilsquirtersRB20motor001Large.jpg

.

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  • 2 years later...

When running big turbo and if you change fuel delivery too blo through like i did, you have to delete your timing advance and tune from there. with that being said ia m running e85 so it makes it a little different for me in the timing area, but the stock pistons definitely wont hold up at all unfder boost unless its very small boost. i had three of four stock pistons break or craack from pressure, but now im running forged rods and pistons and billet crank which isnt really needed. the factory nissan crank is a bad dude, but i went that way for a little more crank torque.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Guys...

 

i'm a noobi I am in perth in australia i am glad i found your forum it's a great place to read about what's been achieved with the 720 hardbody in the states here in Aus there's not much going on with what we call the nissan navara (your hardbody) aprt from a lot of young guys lowering and pimping them.

 

i've got a 4x4 navara i've been doing up it's my hobby i guess.. my next project with the car is to hot up the engine .. about a year ago i put a weber 32/36 and extractors on it and got rid of the viscous fan replaced it with a set of dual fans (runs heaps better) not had it on a dyno but i reckon i got another 30 horses out of it .. i was thinkking of turboing hence my post to this thread... i found wiseco pistons will fit from a ka24e if you recess them for the valves yes... also rods from the same engine...

 

below are some links which may be useful to someone..

 

http://www.wiseco.com/Catalogs/SportCompact/Nissan.pdf

 

camshafts...

 

http://www.wiseco.com/Catalogs/K1/CompleteCatalog.pdf

 

 

Blow-thru Turbo

 

http://www.turbodatsun.com/For_Sale.htm

 

i've been talking to the owner of the site above .. and will order one when he gets his sh&88***##t together... dunno what's going on with him... spoke to him a few times on the  phone too..he doesn't seem to want to sell what he's advertising for some reason.. but as you can see from his site he has done it.. so it's doable...you guys are in America which is where is reckon he probably sourced his poarts as there's no suppliers here at all.

 

If he can't supply the turbo kit i am going to go to a 38/38 weber and a cam and see what it does with the wiseco anmd such...

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When running big turbo and if you change fuel delivery too blo through like i did, you have to delete your timing advance and tune from there. with that being said ia m running e85 so it makes it a little different for me in the timing area, but the stock pistons definitely wont hold up at all unfder boost unless its very small boost. i had three of four stock pistons break or craack from pressure, but now im running forged rods and pistons and billet crank which isnt really needed. the factory nissan crank is a bad dude, but i went that way for a little more crank torque.

 hey Nizzo... turbo YEP...

 

hey there mate... steve from australia ...

 

i realize that you don't know me... but i was wondering about your blow thru turbo setup. is there a build site and pictures of it at all?

 

check out this. its a blow thru turbo using a weber 32/36

 

http://www.turbodatsun.com/Z24%20Dyno%20Mule.htm

 

http://www.turbodatsun.com/For_Sale.htm

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Perth dude, did you fit a turbo to the Z24 engine or some other engine?

 

It seems that all Nissan engines in stock form can handle up to 10 psi boost (and also that any will break if detonation is allowed to occur). You mentioned a "big turbo" so I'm guessing you are running more boost than that?

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ggzilla... hi mate... nah i didn't do it ... i am gonna do it .. at least if that guy gets his sh@@** together.. yeh boost a standard z24 will take 10 to 12 they tell me... i'll upload some pix in a few days.. gotta holiday ging here the missus needs input too :)

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Anyhow Turbogemini has not answered an email for 2 weeks now & i did tell him i want to buy his turbo kit so i'll keep you guys posted if he does come back ???

 

A freind of mine has a engine recon shop so we are gonna stroke the crank and wack in bigger valves with steel seats and stronger springs

and the wiseco pistons and rods --  man i reckon it might go like hell ... now if i can only get that turbo off gemini ......... :devil:

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Most factory turbo engines with stock hyper-eutectic pistons limit boost to 5-8 PSI for good reason. This increases the power (theoretically) to about 30% and that a lot really. A lot more stress but mostly a lot more heat. The hotter internal components get the closer the engine gets to becoming a diesel and un-controled pre ignition will destroy pistons in seconds. 10-12 pounds of boost can be withstood, but only for brief short bursts and although nothing happens usually.... eventually you will hold it there too long and boom. Ignition retard under boost, water alcohol injection, inter cooler, oil cooler, larger rad, ceramic coated pistons and combustion chambers, exhaust temperature gauge etc. will only allow you to safely get closer to blowing up your engine but not quite blowing up your engine.

 

Forged pistons are an absolute must to have on a boosted engine, there's no way around this.

 

As for more cam and lift, plus larger valves I wouldn't go over board. If an engine is not a good breather the turbo will make it breathe. Rather than increasing the lift and or larger valves just run more boost to push the air in. 3-5 extra pounds adjustment is much cheaper. In addition a ragged cam makes for very poor idle and low speed driving when not boosting. Better valve springs are a definite improvement as this thing is now going to rev.

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