Engine break-in

[screamer510]

Hey all,

Ive been doing lots of reading and cant come to a good answer.

What's the Ratsun-approved method of breaking in a new engine?

I'm open to the best methods of seating my cast iron rings quickly.

L20b in a 510.

 

Thanks

Dan

[Laecaon]

Romp on it?

 

No steady speeds, lots of acceleration and engine braking.

 

I am at mile 650 now on my engine without any issues.

[metalmonkey47]

Have fun :thumbup:

 

Seems like the best way to break it in quick is to have fun.

 

 

EDIT: the guy that runs GOZA Machine Shop down in Acworth rebuilt a SBC for my brothers C1500 back in 2009, and his break in was great. He had us run the engine up around 3K RPM for about 10 minuets or until up to operating temp, and then take it for a hard drive.

 

After the first drive, compression tested perfect. Never had an issue with it.

[Jayden71]

Drive it like you always drive it. I have 10,000 miles on rebuilt L16, not a single issue, have not changed my driving habits with it at all.

[screamer510]

What about warming it up that first time before taking it out of the barn for a drive? Idle to warm up to operating temp and go, or fire it up, build oil pressure, and go?

[Skib]

EDIT: the guy that runs GOZA Machine Shop down in Acworth rebuilt a SBC for my brothers C1500 back in 2009, and his break in was great. He had us run the engine up around 3K RPM for about 10 minuets or until up to operating temp, and then take it for a hard drive.

 

After the first drive, compression tested perfect. Never had an issue with it.

 

I use a similar method

 

you need to run it good to seat the rings.

[datzenmike]

What about warming it up that first time before taking it out of the barn for a drive? Idle to warm up to operating temp and go, or fire it up, build oil pressure, and go?

 

Motors are designed to be driven as soon as you start then up. Check that there is oil pressure or the light out, fasten sea belts, turn stereo on and go. I wouldn't give-er right away, but allow the motor to warm up while driving it. Idling for 15 min to bring up the temp gauge isn't wrong.... just a waste of time, gas and just fouls the plugs. In the winter if I have time, It's safer to idle it for a while to have some defrost heat.

[screamer510]

Sorry, but my stereo only gets ////static/////

 

Thanks, datzenmike, will do

 

Dan

[ggzilla]

Motors are designed to be driven as soon as you start then up

Yes, in general.

 

But not necessarily with a new engine.

 

If a new camshaft has been fitted, you must run it above 2000 RPM for 20 minutes before you start driving it. This is to finish the cam.

 

If it is just rings and bearing, drive it immediately.

[datzenmike]

Well that shouldn't be hard to do with a new cam and new rings. Just keep the revs above 2K while breaking it in. The cam doesn't know if you are part or full throttle accelerating. The first twenty minutes are critical to good ring seating.

[RedBanner]

its ben said that some modern oil formula's are realy bad for breakins. Stupid of me for not remembering, but theres a million pages about it online.

[Laecaon]

I broke in my rings with normal oil, and a container of ZDDP additive. After the first 50 miles, I switched over to Valvoline VR1 10w30 to not have to add the ZDDP anymore.

[Jayden71]

I have been running 15w40 Delo, same oil as used in big diesels

[Dimerforlife13]

Do you have a new or reground cam in your new motor? Cam break in is critical. 20 minutes at 2k-2500 no load. Do an oil change when your done with the cam break in, and go drive it. I usually just limit my revs for the first 300-500 miles, but still drive it like you would. Just me though. I also change my oil again after the first 500 miles.

[ddrum]

I'm about to rebuild mine with new rings, main bearings, and rod bearings, but i also have a brand new rebuilt head, what would you all recommend? i was thinking just drive it normally and don't rev it to much since i don't have a tachometer. Then just change the oil after 500 miles.

[banzai510(hainz)]

MY Block builder put the rings in dry.

Says they seat Fast.

[DanielC]

Camshaft break in in requires medium RPM for about 20 to 30 minutes. Idling is bad for the camshaft, as is RPM near redline. Camshaft break in requires a high ZDDP oil. I have heard of engine builders for high performance V-8 engines use stock springs for camshaft break in, or if they have dual springs, only run one spring of a dual spring set.

 

After the camshaft is broke in, you need to seat the rings. Rings seat the best at WOT. The pistons actually travel farther up in the cylinder bore at max RPM.

To seat the rings, go WOT to max RPM, and then let the engine compression slow the car down. The WOT phase forces the rings against the cylinder walls hard, and wears in the rings to the cylinder walls, so they match. This creates metal wear particles. The closed throttle creates a high vacuum in the combustion chamber, this tends to suck more oil into the cylinder, and the excess oil washes the wear particles into the oil pan, where hopefully the oil filter catches them.

 

I would change the oil, and filter immediately after cam break in. Then drive hard with WOT, and closed throttle as much as you can legally, to start seating the piston rings. Change the oil and filter again, around 25 to 50 miles. Change the oil and filter again at 500 miles, and then you should be OK to use normal oil, change intervals.

[MicroMachinery]

^Textbook break-in right there. Exactly how I was taught in school, and by my old boss(old school engine builder).