Z chopper Posted May 10, 2012 Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 ok figure it is time to start a slow moving project thread. a snails pace is too quick one of the first things I need to tackle front drivers side floor board also work on the engine L20b british su carbs and 210 head (will be looking for z carbs and different head soon enough) I wonder if it is the head is what caused the stalling problems for the previous owner. Quote Link to comment
INDY510 Posted May 10, 2012 Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 . Needs moar low!!!! ....... :lol: ........ I can see floor gap 2 Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted May 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2012 . Needs moar low!!!! ....... :lol: ........ I can see floor gap don't you recognize the new and improved flintstone braking system?? :rofl: Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 13, 2012 Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 Z SUs are too big (used on a 50% larger motor) for the L16. A peanut A87 will lower the compression slightly but has better breathing. Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted May 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 Z SUs are too big (used on a 50% larger motor) for the L16. A peanut A87 will lower the compression slightly but has better breathing. kinda figured that, but for an L20b what would be recommended? Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted May 13, 2012 Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 Z SU's are too big (46mm). She'll breath like no other on the high side, but you'll lose a lot of power at lower RPM's due to a dramatic loss of velocity. You could buy roadster SU's or SSS SU's which are 38mm and work great. There are flat-top 38mm's and round-top. Round tops are preferable, but the flat top 38mm's pretty much identical but have some small smog components, which are easily blocked off with aluminum sheet & some custom gasket material. I ran flat-top JDM SU's off (I THINK) a 610 (180B?). They were amazing on my L20B, very good throttle response and she breathed all the way to 6K without a problem. If you want to have 100% problem-free SU's, send a set off to ZTherapy or just pay the core charge and purchase a set from them. I've never heard of a single upset customer, and you won't find anybody that knows SU's any better. They do full-rebuilds and media polishing, new plated linkage, smog removal, but most importantly they replace the bushings for the throttle rods with sealed bearings, eliminating the usual vacuum leak that appears with age. It's the only way to fix that issue as far as I know, they even use undersized bearings and oversized rods. Of course, this costs money - but you get what you pay for. In regards to Mike's post, the 210 head is a small-port head. Very small. IIRC, they were only used on 210 casting mark heads. They came in open, semi-closed, and fully closed designs - but all of them had the small ports. The A87 is probably the most common head you'll find, as a 219 (SSS) head is rare, and an unmolested head will cost you a pretty penny. The A87 is close, but if you find a peanut A87 you can work the ports over slightly (pocket port, port-match) and it'll probably be the best set up for you. A87's are have square-port exhaust, so you don't have to run a round-port manifold. I have the closed A87 head on my L20B (old engine), shaved .015" with +.030" 11cc dished pistons, and was running 180psi when the engine was fresh. Not sure on the compression ratio, but my L20B was impressive. I enjoyed that engine a lot, and will likely miss it eventually. If you went with the same or similar set up, I think you'd be pleased with it's performance. The downside, is that I had to run premium pump gas or it would ping during the summer. Was still worth it. Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted May 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 considering this engine was "rebuilt" 2,000 - 3,000 miles ago according to previous owner. The British SU carbs that are on it are HS6 SU carbs which I think are the british equivalent to z carbs. I am considering a Napz swap or swapping the carbs for L18e fuel injection Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 13, 2012 Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 I missed that it was an L20B but the Z carbs are still too big, but better than for an L16. A 210 head on an L20B would be through the roof compression 9.23 and poor breathing. Any open chamber L20B head will be fine. Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted May 13, 2012 Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 Well, the 38mm SU's I have are HS4's. I do believe you're correct about them being the larger variety. I would shy away from a Naps-Z swap, at that point - you'd be better off running a KA24E. More power, more reliable, and easier to find parts for. The fuel injection would be sweet, but now you're looking at a *lot* of money. Intake ports have to be notched for fuel injectors, everything would be older equipment and extremely hard to find. The cool-factor would be there, however. If you have the means to do so, either recover the current engine with upgraded (wait, would that be downgrading from HS6 to HS4's?) or go with a single cam KA. If you haven't experienced a nice prepped L20B... I'm serious you won't be disappointed! The KA would be better, of course. I would still love an LZ23 prepped from Rebello for street, though.... Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted May 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2012 I am leaning towards the cool factor of L20b-E, which I have already have a source for the intake manifold. I am planning on following the write up in DQ issue 1 Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted May 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2012 Figure start with the pics of the car currently the trunk see what they did with the tail light panel wait till I show the "bumper" Quote Link to comment
merlin Posted May 18, 2012 Report Share Posted May 18, 2012 I do sorta have a replacement panel for that rear end... How much tin is left on the passenger side near the quarter... My panel was cout short on one side. I also have a very good fiberglass one you can have for 175 that would fix all your problems with a few rivets. Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted May 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2012 I do sorta have a replacement panel for that rear end... How much tin is left on the passenger side near the quarter... My panel was cout short on one side. I also have a very good fiberglass one you can have for 175 that would fix all your problems with a few rivets. oh about that much from license plate light mount bolt hole there is 16 3/4" to the cut line Quote Link to comment
merlin Posted May 18, 2012 Report Share Posted May 18, 2012 hmmm not enough quite Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted May 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2012 merlin got a pic of the fibreglass piece? Quote Link to comment
merlin Posted May 18, 2012 Report Share Posted May 18, 2012 http://classicdatsun.com/new/Craig510e.jpg nope but it's the same as this one. thick black fiberglass that has enough glass width to lap the seamer on either side of the quarters... I installedthe Matching valence on my Snowballs chance car, but that car is a 68 so i didn't use the taillight panel... like this one the 510keeper had for sale, just in fglass http://community.ratsun.net/topic/27089-all-datsun-swap-meet-and-car-show-eagle-rock-socal/page__st__20 Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted May 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2012 hmmmm $175+shipping eh Quote Link to comment
merlin Posted May 18, 2012 Report Share Posted May 18, 2012 Any islanders going to kelowna tomorrow that you can give the cash too and have them bring it back? Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted May 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2012 well pay day is 2 weeks away Quote Link to comment
RadioRedline Posted May 22, 2012 Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 Moar Oics! Lol Good work! Radio Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted May 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 Moar Oics! Lol Good work! Radio what work?? 1 Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted June 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 well good news my engine is not siezed, I got it to turn over but my gas pedal doesn't seem to have any resistance so I am thinking throttle cable is not hooked up right Quote Link to comment
Guest 510kamikazifreak Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 Cable? SU's right? Return spring? Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted June 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 su carbs, I am thinking return spring. also gotta double check choke cable. Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted June 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 doesn't seem to have a choke cable Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.