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My 75 710 hard top build thread...


toadx8u

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True, but mine where coated still looked good, cost 130$ did my whole truck

Of course hard line still look fine so its a mattrr of taste

 

 

But they chew at everything they touch, and you can make a hard line to rplace the stock line for $15.00.

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True, but mine where coated still looked good, cost 130$ did my whole truck

Of course hard line still look fine so its a mattrr of taste

 

Wa ha ha it's a mater of wallet. :lol: :lol:

 

 

They're actually called "smiley" headlights for BMW's .. I was thinking aboout them with my smiley bumpers . did you need to cut a bigger hole for the back of the headlights?

 

Yes, I'd like to know too. I have some BMW projector lamps and they ain't fitting without some massaging.

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Yup they are the "smiley" headlights but are also referred to as ellipsoid headlights....I used the BMW bracket that came with the lights....cut out the core support behind the lights...just a big hole so everything would fit...surprisingly you can use the lower center bolt on both sides with the mounting hole on the new light assembly had to make a bracket to bolt the top center on the new light assembly....light output is amazing from the H11 bulbs, I did get the silver stars cause I love those bulbs, I just wanna figure out how to have the high and low beam both on with the high switch.... And before anyone starts blasting me with those are RHD lights the assemblies I got are world friendly meaning there was 3 screws on the back of the projector that could be loosened and the housing turned for RHD or LHD use...this is the light I got but I scrounged mine off eBay from someone who couldn't use them any longer... http://www.bavtoys.com/e30depo.php

You wil also need the 2 prong plugs, the white yellow and blue ones not the US market ones that fit a 9005/9006 setup, to fit the lights they are easily found on eBay for about 20$

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  • 2 months later...

Member Will is now the proud new owner of the L20B from my car he drove out of my driveway at noon today with it in the back of a rented minivan...ill post pics in a little bit...now the KA install begins

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I got your PM,, sorry I forgot until now .. I used that horrible ebay KA510 cx racing radiator 13"x26"x1.5"thick .. I don't reccomend it

 

I test fitted a 15.5"x27"x3" Griffin radiator that fit better .... you could go even taller maybe 16.5" but it needs to taper down at the bottom to fit between the frame rails if wider than 25-26" (measure that though, I have no 710 to measure) . :frantics:

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  • 3 weeks later...

so after working about 5 hours on Saturday and oh about 4 hours today the KA is in the car...i have to weld the mounts into place and build the trans cross member....and then run the wiring harness....gotta order up my exhaust parts and some autometer gauges(gonna use this to control the speedo http://m.summitracing.com/parts/cyb-69248e ) and take the drive shaft to have it shortened i don't have much time off coming up and my wife soaked up the majority of the time i had off over christmas hopefully in a few months i will be able to post a video but until then ill continue to update with some pics

58590_10151357823309933_1927943696_n.jpg

 

this is a 240z radiator

734885_10151357823234933_952140568_n.jpg

 

418160_10151357823164933_1224775646_n.jp

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yeah i told ya that carb needs to be played with... and did you put a choke cable on it?

 

Yup - It has a choke cable - I don't think I could get it started without one! 

I'm surprised at how much different this engine sounds compared to the L16 that was in the car before. Plus the clutch that I had before was new, but this one connects way sooner than the previous one when I release the pedal.

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looks like that motor was dragged by tracker for a couple miles.  lol

yeah like i said i plan on cleaning it up...along with the engine bay time is short right now and i need the car back on the road cause diesel is expensive when your truck only gets about 12 miles/gal

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I can't believe you got that header to fit .... . it must be hitting the floor pans and where the trans. mount bolts to the body

 

I ended up adding extensions to the header downpipes so it would clear, with the trans. X-member bolted in .. . but then the header kept dragging on speed-bumps

 

My throttle cable looks really basic,, maybe even a modified stock 240sx cable ... . with a hole drilled through the 710 gas pedal rod at the top .... and the throttle cable is going through that hole (still works :lol:) .. the only return spring is on the Throttle Body of the KA24 (I will take a pic when I get my wagon back) but you'll have this thing running in no time

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yeah like i said i plan on cleaning it up...along with the engine bay time is short right now and i need the car back on the road cause diesel is expensive when your truck only gets about 12 miles/gal

 

thats no good.

 

  its no big deal,  if you can make a running driving ka24de 710, aesthetics really dont matter

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