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Bagged and Boosted 71 4dr 510


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QUESTION for anyone who knows anything about turbos. In its stock application the turbo im using had an oil feed line that was bolted diretly to the top of the housing. the drain was directly on the bottom. Can you rotate the turbo and lets say 90 degrees and have the feed on the said and the drain on the side?

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The oil feed line does not need to be vertical as its pressurized... though the return is gravity feed so it doesnt need to be vertical, but you do have to make sure that the outlet is the highest point in the return line and within 35* of vertical.

 

Edit: You should be able to unclamp the housings from each other and rotate the housing if you need some sort of clearance. That should give you a few more routing possibilities while keeping the oil lines in the proper position.

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The oil feed line does not need to be vertical as its pressurized... though the return is gravity feed so it doesnt need to be vertical, but you do have to make sure that the outlet is the highest point in the return line and within 35* of vertical.

 

Edit: You should be able to unclamp the housings from each other and rotate the housing if you need some sort of clearance. That should give you a few more routing possibilities while keeping the oil lines in the proper position.

 

 

Hmmm okay well theres my problem! i guess i gotta try and re clock it again and get the center housing sitting better. I believe that the way i have it now is allowing for oil pressure to build up, not drain, and make its way past the seals instead.

 

Edit; i assumed the first turbo i had was blown, bought a known good one and still doing the same thing. So again assuming its the oil not draining properly

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If your turbo's keep blowing the seals the center housing might be getting to much oil and not able to drain fast enough. Try using a reducer on the feed line. The center housing should have very little pressure if not at all. All the oil is doing is lubing and cooling the bearings. So having it as vertical as possible will ensure good lubrication all around the bearings evenly. a small angle shouldn't effect it too much however. Also make sure you return line is the proper size. Its amazing how much oil is squirted out with a reducer! I know this by experience haha!

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If your turbo's keep blowing the seals the center housing might be getting to much oil and not able to drain fast enough. Try using a reducer on the feed line. The center housing should have very little pressure if not at all. All the oil is doing is lubing and cooling the bearings. So having it as vertical as possible will ensure good lubrication all around the bearings evenly. a small angle shouldn't effect it too much however. Also make sure you return line is the proper size. Its amazing how much oil is squirted out with a reducer! I know this by experience haha!

 

 

I guess my next question would be, if i get it to drain properly so that pressure is not building up in the housing, will it still work? or once oil gets past the seals once are they shot?

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Figured id give a little update. got it runnin. forgot to hook up the waste gate and scarred the shit out of me when i watched the boost gauge jump up to 20 pounds. it needs more fuel, a lot more fuel. damn the turbos loud. itll boost 10 pounds in nuetral by 5k....and at an idle you can hear it spoolin away. its almost louder then the open downpipe

 

As far as airbags go, i ordered my aero sport bags 14 days ago through ebay. never got sent. reported it and have to wait til the 14th to get my money back....So i can order them again... Oh well

 

I was gunna go down to canby for the day saturday. but definately will not be making that drive on one spring and one canister. So ill settle for the old school reunion and make the next north enders ratsun meet!

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i step on the gas pedal and the exhaust flow spools the turbo and builds boost inside the intake and it reaches 8-10 pounds.

 

If that was a serious how do you make it work type question, smaller turbo possibly?

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haha, i bet your sr is way faster though. Its werid how its spooling and boosting, becasue i was running this same turbo on my l20, totally different exhaust setup tho, and i couldnt even get 2 pounds out of that until like 3k in first gear.

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wow thats odd, i wonder if it has to do with the carb setup. Usually turbo cars don't build boost in neutral unless they have some kind of launch controller. My ka-t nor my turbo diesel builds that much boost when its not going.

 

congrats on getting it all together!

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Figured id give a little update. got it runnin. forgot to hook up the waste gate and scarred the shit out of me when i watched the boost gauge jump up to 20 pounds. it needs more fuel, a lot more fuel. damn the turbos loud. itll boost 10 pounds in nuetral by 5k....and at an idle you can hear it spoolin away. its almost louder then the open downpipe

 

As far as airbags go, i ordered my aero sport bags 14 days ago through ebay. never got sent. reported it and have to wait til the 14th to get my money back....So i can order them again... Oh well

 

I was gunna go down to canby for the day saturday. but definately will not be making that drive on one spring and one canister. So ill settle for the old school reunion and make the next north enders ratsun meet!

 

Dude! just cause u dont have a datto roadworthy is no excuse to MISS CANBY ! ! Borrow your pops rig and HEAD DOWN its a rad sho!!!

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This mallory fuel pressure regulator is our most popular regulator FulePressureRegulator.jpg

for several reasons. Its good price, readily available, and can be

used in a wide variety of applications! It also it has a 1-1 boost reference

for turbo charged, or supercharged applications to prevent fuel starvation

common with a static (non rising) fuel pressure regulator. This regulator

is designed for carbureted fuel systems and is adjustable from 4 psi to 40 psi

fuel pressure, and with the boost reference line hooked up the fuel pressure

will raise 1 pound (fuel pressure) for every pound of boost to prevent fuel

starvation by keeping the correct pressure in the carburetor at all times.

 

 

 

 

Im not sure where else to ask this....hopefully someone here can help. now these are designed to prevent fuel startvation by increasing the fuel presssure with boost. makes sense. my question is this. you run boost lines to the float bowls and they pressurize the bowls, allowing fuel to flow thru the jet so the boost doesnt push back through instead. now so long as your not running out of gas, you dont need one of these regulators to increase pressure with boost right? or am i thinking about it wrong. does the added regulator pressure somehow force more fuel through the jet and into the motor under boost? or is the pressure strictly just to get the fuel into the bowl? if thats the case i dont think i need one?

 

this sounds confusing and hopefully someone understands what im talking about!

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Guess what finally showed after over 3 weeks and an ebay claim later. If i didnt want the parts now i would send them back just to spite him. but then it would probally take 6 weeks to just get a refund. didnt even come with any mounting plates like it said either.

 

But hey aerosport bags made it and will be in sometime around sunday or monday. ill probally pull the rear sway too (been waiting for the front bags first) and finish the rear bags (make em lower)

 

Pics later!

 

Also i had a major fail with my homemade header. pics of that to sunday

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i have hydraulics sytem from my wrecked oldsmobile cutlass lowrider...single pump .. have to find old school reverse flow cylinder or cobble some harbor frieght or northern tools plow cylinder to put on my 81...i wanna lift the front and make it look like a 60's gasser drag race car

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