Refresh101 Posted April 1, 2012 Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 Engine: * 1980 Datsun 200SX (Z20E Naps-Z) 2.0 liter fuel injection * Volkswagen Rabbit aluminum cross flow radiator * 2 inch exhaust piping with a resonator and muffler * PVC pipe intake with K&N air filter * NGK spark plug wires * NGK copper spark plugs * 1980 Datsun 200SX external fuel pump According to the previous owner who did the engine/motor swap. * Fuel lines have been upgraded to a larger size The previous owner, the guy I purchased the car from ran new and larger fuel lines before he swapped in the Z20E engine/motor and the matching 5-speed manual transmission. Drivetrain and Driveline: * 1980 Datsun 200SX 5-speed transmission * Modified/shorten drive shaft Suspension: * 1969 Engine crossmember * 1969 Front strut assemblies/casings I believe the 1969 Datsun 510 front strut assemblies are either 1.000 inch or 1.250 inches shorter than the later 1970-1973 Datsun 510 stock front strut assemblies. The shorter 1969 front strut assemblies allow you to lower the front of the vehicle lower. * Koni red Special D front strut cartridge/inserts They are 3-way adjustable. * Koni red Special D rear shocks They are 3-way adjustable. * Addco front anti-roll bar The Addco front anti-roll bar is mounted with custom CNC mounting brackets made by the previous owner. He worked as a machinist so he had access to the tools and machines. * Bumpsteer spacers or Roll center adjusters Made by Kelvin Dietz, a veteran Datsun 510 enthusiasts. * Quickor front lowering coil springs They have been cut by the previous owner when he installed them. I do not know how many coils were cut. I also, do not know the Quickor coil spring specifications; like how many pounds per inch they are. * Mitsubishi D50 pick-up truck coil springs on the rear The Mitsubishi D50 pick-up truck coil springs have been cut 1 coil. I installed these to replace the Quickor coil springs that were on the rear. The Quickor coil springs that came with the 510 were cut too short, causing the rear tires to rub the fenders. It also caused the rear of the car to sit to low and there was a lot of negative camber. The Mitsubishi D50 coil springs have been cut 1 coil. Total length after cutting 1 coil equals 10 inch total coil spring length. 10 inch coil spring length equals 440 pounds per inch. 440 pounds per inch divided by 3.8 (Datsun 510 suspension motion ratio) equals 115.7 pounds per inch wheel rate. * Front strut mounts and bearings * T/C Rod bushings * Ball joints * Front inner tie rods * Front outer tie rods * Front lower control arm bushings * Front anti-roll bar end link bushings Brakes and Hydraulics: * Re-manufactured front brake calipers * Front brake caliper hydraulic hoses * Front disc brake rotors * Front disc brake pads * Rear drum brakes * Rear drum brake hardware kit * Rear brake hydraulic hoses * Re-manufactured brake master cylinder * Re-manufactured clutch master cylinder * Front inner wheel bearings * Front outer wheel bearings * Clutch, pressure plate and throw-out bearing * Manual transmission gear oil * Rear differential gear oil The parts replacement list from the front strut mounts all the way down to the rear differential gear oil were replaced by the previous owner in the year 2000. The rubber parts are stock replacement parts and are not aftermarket performance polyurethane. Interior: * 1980 Datsun 200SX driver, passenger and rear seat * Nismo genuine seat belt shoulder pads * Grant steering wheel * Datsun wooden shift knob * Factory option OEM tachometer Exterior: * Exterior color is Orange * Rolled front and rear wheel fenders The front and rear fenders were rolled with a baseball bat in spring of 2001 by me, after I purchased the car. Yes, it may sound ghetto but remember this was in 2001 and to the best of my knowledge, a fender rolling tool did not exist yet... or atleast I wasn't aware of any fender rolling tools in existence around this time. Wheels and Tires: * 1980 Datsun 280zx Iron cross wheels Diameter: 14 inches Width: 6 inches Backspace: 4.000 inches or 102mm Offset: +13mm * 195-60-14 Yokohama S-306 HR rated tires Pros: The paint is an older, professional paint from the late 1980’s. This faded and older professional paint job, lets you know that there are no hidden and unseen cancer rust lurking underneath. The body has not been recently primered to hide any cancer rust lurking underneath. The body does not have a recent, new and or shiny paint job to hide any cancer rust, surface rust, bondo and body work lurking underneath. The body is very straight for a 41 year old car Fuel injected engine/motor 5-speed manual transmission Reliable fuel injected engine/motor and no more needing to adjust and tune the carburetors. Timing chain driven engine (so you don't need to worry about timing belt snapping and or replacing the timing belt every 60,000 - 90,000 miles). Second, third and Me (fourth) non-smoking owners. Garage kept, kept/parked under car port and or covered up when not being driven/used in my 11 years of ownership. It will be very difficult and a challenge to find another Datsun 510 2 door sedan in this condition/shape, for this asking/selling price. Cons: Driver side floor board has cancer rust Steering box has a broken filler plug (It is the plastic filler plug, not the metal one). Spark plug # 1 on the exhaust side is stripped. Hood has surface rust Trunk has surface rust Hood molding/trim missing Dash is cracked Passenger side rear quarter window has a broken window latch. Driver side door handle does not work. Driver side window glass has slightly fell off the track (it is no longer operable). Front windshield has some scratches. It appears to have been scratched by a windshield wiper blade. Small surface rust on the body here and there (please see pictures). Minor dents (expected for a used 41 year old car). Minor dings (expected for a used 41 year old car). 1 - The driver side floor board cancer rust. The previous owner was honest and this was the first thing he showed me when I went to look at the car. 2 - I had my hood propped up one day and saw what seemed to be like fluid leaking from the steering box. I touched it, and the steering box filler plug broke. 3 - The previous owner never mentioned this. I had to find out first hand. But because it is a Z20E (Naps-Z) engine/motor, there are a total of 8 spark plugs and this never really bothered me. All these years, I have only change out 7 of the sprak plugs everytime I give the engine a minor tune-up, the engine/motor and or car runs well with no problems. 4-6 and 10 - I purchased the car, knowing that these problems existed from my own personal inspection. 7 - The previous owner, did not mention and or tell me this. 8 - This happened when the car was in my possession. Went out to the park and someone tried getting and or breaking into my car. But upon further investigating, nothing else was broken, missing and stolen. My conclusion, it sounds more like a hate crime. 9 - My nephew sat in the car one day and got crank happy with the window hand crank. 11 and 12 - The minor dents and minor dings were already on the body. I purchased the car like this. History of the car The original owner, who purchased it brand new from the Datsun dealership was an old lady. The second owner was a male, in his late teens (18-19), when he purchased the car from the original owner in 1985. He had swap in a L20B and a Datsun 280zx 5-speed manual transmission shortly after. It was a mild built L20b with dual Mikuni carburetors. He had the car professionally painted. He drove the car all throughout College. In 1994 after graduating from College, he blew the motor while street racing. It sat in the driveway for 3 years (1997), when the third owner purchased it. The third owner was a male, in his mid to late 30’s. The third owner resided in the Battle Ground, Washington area. He told me that the car is originally from that area. In early 2000, he finally found the time and got around to swapping in the Z20E (Naps-Z) 2.0 liter engine/motor and 5-speed transmission. A few weeks later, he got the engine/motor wiring harness wired and the motor started on the first crank. He installed the Koni special D front strut cartridges/inserts and rear shocks. He installed front and rear Quickor performance lowering coil springs. He also replaced the bushings on the front end (refer to the suspension category for the exact parts replaced). He installed the Addco front anti-roll bar. The previous owner practically, is responsible for the 85-95% of the work that has been done to the car and transformed it into a reliable daily driver. He commuted to work from Battle Ground, Washington to Wilsonville, Oregon for a whole year. In early 2001 (January), I was browsing on www.dimequarterly.com and found a for sale ad. At the time, I was residing in Gresham, Oregon (approximately a 20 minute drive from the Datsun Blue Lake Show). I made a call and took a trip over the Columbia River (on Interstate 205) to Battle Ground, Washington to purchase the car. I asked the previous owner why he was selling and he replied, “I just recently changed hobbies and got into Motocross, so I need money to fix my bike.” In April of 2001, I moved down to Merced, California. The drive from Gresham, Oregon to Merced, California was approximately 706 miles (approximately a 13 hour drive). The Datsun 510 ran like a champ and made the whole trip with no problems (only time I stop was to fill up gas and eat). This 510 has been the most reliable 30 year old (1971-2001), car that I have owned. So it is official, that this 1971 Datsun 510 2 door sedan started life out in the Pacific Northwest and made its way down to Sunny California. In Spring of 2003, I relocated down to Southern California (Orange County). The trip was approximately 307 miles (approximately a 5 hour drive). On the way down, the only thing I was worried about was if I were going to make it over the Grapevine (the steep mountain incline). The Grapevine mountain incline is a great way to test, see how well and powerful your car is. I found out first hand, that a Z20E fuel injected and 5-speed manual powered 30 year old Datsun 510, had no hiccups and no signs of any problems when I made it to my final destination. In spring of 2004 I purchased a second car to use as a daily driver. From the Spring of 2004 to the Summer of 2008, the Datsun 510 was driven sparingly (2-3 times a week). In July (Summer of 2008), was when I could no longer financially afford to operate two cars. I came to a conclusion to file a non-op status and store away the Datsun 510 in my older brother’s garage (somewhere in San Gabriel, California). There inside my older brother's garage, the Datsun hibernated until the fall of 2011. Throughout my 11 years of owning the 510, it was driven for 7 years and stored for 4 years. On the third week of January 2001 to the first week of April 2001 (approximately 2 1/2 months), the Datsun 510 was parked in the driveway outside in the Pacific Northwest weather. In the second week of April 2001 all the way until the Summer of 2008, the 510 was driven and garage kept in the Sunny California weather. This fall of 2011, my older brother help towed the 510 on a trailer back up to Central California. On the second week of October 2011 until present, the 510 is stored and covered up with tarp in my parent's driveway. The is the first fall and winter that the 510 was stored outside, covered in the cold and rainy Central California weather. 1st owner (Original) Maintenance N/A 2nd owner Maintenance and Modifications * Mild build L20B engine/motor * Performance cam (unknown manufacture and cam specs). * Dual Mikuni carburetors (unknown size). * Datsun 280zx 5-speed conversion/swap * Lowered (unknown brand/manufacture of strut, shocks and springs) * Professional paint job in the late 1980's. 3rd owner Maintenance and Modifications * 1969 Datsun 510 engine crossmember * 1969 Datsun 510 front strut assemblies * 1980 Datsun 200SX Z20E (Naps-Z) engine/motor * 1980 Datsun 200SX 5-Speed transmission * ECU, engine/motor harness wiring loom and wired * Upgraded and enlarged fuel lines * 1980 Datsun 200SX external fuel pump * Volkswagen Rabbit aluminum radiator * PVC intake pipe and K&N air filter * Champion spark plug wires * Champion spark plugs * 2 inch exhaust piping with resonator and muffler * Bumpsteer (A.K.A. Roll center adjusters) spacers made by Kelvin Dietz * Koni red Special D front strut cartridges/inserts and rear shocks * Quickor front and rear performance coil springs * Addco front anti-roll bar with custom CNC mounting hardware * Front strut mounts and bearings * T/C Rod bushings * Ball joints * Front inner tie rods * Front outer tie rods * Front lower control arm bushings * Front anti-roll bar end link bushings * Re-manufactured front brake calipers * Front brake caliper hydraulic hoses/lines * Front disc brake rotors * Front disc brake pads * Rear drum brakes * Rear drum brake hardware kit * Rear brake hydraulic hoses/lines * Re-manufactured brake master cylinder * Re-manufactured clutch master cylinder * Clutch, pressure plate and throw-out bearing * Manual transmission gear oil (unknown brand) * Rear differential gear oil (unknown brand) * 1980 Datsun 200SX driver, passenger and rear seat * Grant steering wheel * Datsun shift knob (wooden) * 1980 Datsun 280zx Iron cross wheels Diameter: 14 inches Width: 6 inches Backspace: 4.000 inches or 102mm Offset: +13mm *** The previous owner (3rd owner), practically is responsible for 85-95% of the work that has been done to the car and transformed it into a reliable daily driver. 4th owner (Me) Maintenance and Modifications * Datsun/Nissan OEM L-Series (L16, L18 and L20B) water pump * Datsun/Nissan OEM L-Series water pump gasket * Datsun/Nissan OEM thermostat (Z20E) * Datsun/Nissan OEM Datsun 200SX upper and lower radiator hoses. I had to slightly trim one side of both upper and lower radiator hoses to fit. * Prestone anti-freeze/coolant (drain and fill) * NGK spark plug wires (Z20E) * NGK spark plugs (copper spark plugs) * Datsun/Nissan OEM distributor cap (Z20E) * Datsun/Nissan OEM distributor rotor (Z20E) * Datsun/Nissan OEM valve cover gasket (Z20E) * Castrol GTX 10W-40 motor oil and Fram oil filter * 4 Yokohama S306 HR rated 195-60-14 * Rolled all 4 fenders with a baseball bat (the previous owner had 185-60-14 size tires on their and he didn't have a problem with any rubbing). * Mitsubishi D50 cut 1 coil, installed and replaced the previous Quickor performance coil springs in the rear * Seat covers for driver and front passenger *** These parts were replaced in March of 2001 (two weeks), right before I had relocated and moved down to California. * Factory option OEM tachometer *** The OEM tachometer was installed in the July of 2001. I installed it and my brother-in-laws uncle wired it up. * I re-routed the PVC intake pipe *** This was done in 2002. * NGK copper spark plugs * Castrol GTX 10W-40 motor oil * Mobile 1 oil filter * Battery *** This was done in the Spring of 2003, one day before I relocated and moved to Orange County, California. The battery is a standard size battery made for a 1989-1991 Honda Civic and CR-X. * Re-manufactured starter motor * Ignition starter switch (brand new and forogt the brand) * Clutch slave cylinder (BECK/ARNLEY) *** These parts were replaced in the Fall of 2003. * Replaced the 2 inch exhaust piping, resonator and muffler. *** The muffler went bad and started to rattle. The previous muffler shop who did the work on the previous exhaust piping, resonator and muffler did a bad job. The exhuast piping where it runs underneath the rear differential, there was a bad bend and I never really liked the way it looked. Thankfully my older brother, who also owns a Datsun 510 2 door sedan said, "We can hacksaw the exhaust piping, resonator and muffler off my car and bring it down to a muffler shop and have it installed onto your 510." Me, "Are you sure. And don't you need it for your 510?" He replied, "Well, I'm not driving my 510 and you need it more than I do." Me, "Thank you." *** This was done in the Spring of 2004. *** In my 11 years of ownership, from when the 510 was driven/used, the only thing(s) I have done are routine maintenance to keep the 510 running. In my opinion, this is impressive for a car this age. Mechanical condition of Datsun 510 at the present When I stored the car in 2008, I filed the non-operation status. I unbolted the negative battery terminal. I did not use fuel stabilizer in the gas tank because I have never stored a car before. If I knew what I know today, I would have. But don't let this scare you, the car was stored in the sunny, warm and tropical Southern, California weather. On top of that, it was stored inside of a garage. For those of you who are mechanically inclined and know how to diagnose problem(s), this shouldn't be hard. If you know the correct steps and know exactly what you are doing, the car should start rite up in no time. After all, there is a fuel injected Z20E engine/motor inside, instead of a carbureted L-Series engine. Price If the Datsun 510 was in turn key ready daily driving condition. And all that you have to do is buy it, turn on the ignition and drive it, I would be asking $4,800 firm. But because the engine doesn’t start and the car isn’t in turn key, daily driving condition the asking price is $3,800 with very, very little to no room for price negotiation. If you are serious, please contact me and come see and inspect the car before making any other offers. Please do not waste my time if you are not serious. My price is set at $3,800 with very, very little to no room for price negotiation because I am serious about selling, I must sell the car and it is priced to sell. I will miss her dearly and be sad when she sells. The title is clear and in my name. Contact information and location You can contact me through Ratsun here or my mobil number is (559) 756-8495. Ask for Kue (pronounced Ku). I am located in a small city called Porterville, California (approximately 66,000 population). Porterville, California is located approximately 1 hour southeast of Fresno and approximately 1 hour northeast of Bakersfield (depending on the flow of traffic and how fast you drive). Nada Classic Car Guide: $4,475 (Average condition) This is for an all stock average condition 1971 Datsun 510 2 door sedan. If you are wondering how I priced my car in turn key ready daily driving condition at $4,800 down to $3,800 as is condition with very, very little to no room for price negotiation. I hope that this list will give you a better explanation and understanding of how I came to my conclusion and my final price of $3,800. If had the money and were to put it back into reliable daily driver condition, here is a list of what I would do: 1. Battery Brand: Everstart Model: 51-4 Price: $74.99 2. Clutch master cylinder Brand: BECK/ARNLEY Part #: 0726521 Price: $27.79 3. Brake master cylinder Brand: CENTRIC (Premium part) Part #: 13042107 Price: $76.79 4. Front disc brake rotors Brand: Raybestos Part #: 9074R Price: $35.69 each (x 2) = 71.38 5. Front brake pads Brand: BECK\ARNLEY (Premium organic) Part #: 0820118 Price: $15.43 6. Falken Ziex ZE-912 Size: 195-60-14 Price: $335.00 (mounting, balancing and tax out the door). 7. Water Pump Brand: GMB Part #: 1501030 Price: $27.00 *** Includes water pump gasket 8. Thermostat Brand: Genuine OEM Nissan (180F degree) Part #: 21200-p7906 Price: $15.32 9. Flush cooling system Price: $5.00 (distilled water) 10. Anti-freeze/Coolant Brand: Zerex Asian Coolant 50/50 Price: $13.99 each (x 2) 11. Upper Radiator Hose Brand: Goodyear Part #: 61168 Price: $10.52 12. Lower Radiator Hose Brand: Gates Part #: 21232 Price: $11.73 13. Alternator belt Brand: Gates Part # Price: $15.99 14. Front strut cartridges/inserts *** 1984-1989 Nissan 300ZX (non-turbo) strut cartridge/insert O.D (outer diameter) 1.71" Brand: Bilstein Part #: F4-P30-0264-HO (Heavy Duty) Price: $121.55 each (x 2) *** My brother has a pair of used Bilstein 300zx (Z31) laying around and all I have to do is pay $20.00 for shipping (he’s from California). $121.55 x 2 = $243.10, but because I have access to a used free set and all I have to do is pay $20.00 shipping, I’ll be saving $223.10. 15. Front strut cartridge/inserts gland nut Size: M48 x 1.5p Price: $18.00 each (x 2) 16. Rear shocks *** 1982-2002 Chevrolet Camaro (3.1, 3.4, 3.8 liter V6 and 5.0 and 5.7 liter V8) Brand: Bilstein Part #: F4-B46-1121-HO (Heavy Duty) Price: $78.65 each (x 2) 17. Steering box filler plug Part #: 48060-U2000 Price: $5.86 (this includes shipping) 18. Pennzoil 10W-40 YB (Yellow Bottle) Price: $15.99 (5 quart jug) 19. WIX oil filter Part #: 51521 Price: $6.49 20. WIX fuel filter Part #: 33022 Price: $10.92 21. NGK spark plugs Part #: BPR8ES (Copper) Price: $2.49 each (x 8) 22. Distributor Cap Brand: BECK/ARNLEY Price: $9.00 23. Distributor Rotor Brand: BECK/ARNLEY Price: $3.29 24. Transmission 75W-90 GL-4 Price: Free *** My friend sells Amsoil products and it’s free after I help him make a few repairs on his Nissan 240sx (S13). 25. Rear differential gear oil Price: Free *** My friend sells Amsoil products and it’s free after I help him make a few repairs on his Nissan 240sx (S13). 27. Clean gas tank Price: Free. *** My friend works at my local radiator rebuild/repair shop and he can do it for free. I just have to give him my used set of ERS (Eibach Race Springs) that he’s been wanting. Total: $979.77 *** I believe in using quality premium parts and I have some connections to free parts, so my total would be $979.77. Price breakdown $4,800.00 (firm if the car was turn key ready and reliable daily driver) $979.77 (I will round it off to make it $1,000) 325]= $3,800.00 $3,800.00 with very, very little to no room for price negotiation. Please come take a look at the car before making any offers. I might and should be able to knock off a few more dollars and make you a deal. Serious inquiries only. More pictures can be found here: http://s1140.photobu...0/OptionDatsun/ Link to comment
legitimate_datto_scientist Posted April 1, 2012 Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 while i have a lot of respect for the quality of ad you have posted, im thinking you may want to consider being more flexible on the price if you are truely wanting to sell it. if a motor doesnt start, a buyer has to assume its bunk. do you know the real number miles it has? i looked at your whole post but may over-looked it. GLWS Link to comment
Refresh101 Posted April 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 while i have a lot of respect for the quality of ad you have posted, im thinking you may want to consider being more flexible on the price if you are truely wanting to sell it. if a motor doesnt start, a buyer has to assume its bunk. do you know the real number miles it has? i looked at your whole post but may over-looked it. GLWS Thank you for the kind words. I agree where you said, "you may want to consider being more flexible on the price if you are truly wanting to sell it". If I am selling the car in "as is condition" I will lower the price. But I want top dollar for the car, so plans have changed. I am going to invest a little bit of money, time and taking the correct steps into getting the engine to start. No, I did not state the mileage on the ad. I also do not know the accurate and correct mileage of the car (on the chassis). It has been raining for the last 2 days here so I can't check the odometer until the weather clears up. However, please keep in mind that it is approximately 41 years old, so the mileage may or may not be accurate. I will assume that the mileage is not accurate due to the age of the car. Moderators, I am very sorry for posting up this for sale ad of mine. I however did not thoroughly think it through before posting it up (I'll live and learn). I would like to get top dollar for the car so my priorities have changed. Please delete and or ignore it. Thank you. Link to comment
RetroNut Posted April 2, 2012 Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 I don't want to sound mean, but that was too much to read... I saw the price and the pics and made my mind up. Link to comment
Super X Posted April 2, 2012 Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 I don't want to sound mean, but that was too much to read... I saw the price and the pics and made my mind up. I agree. I can tell you have alot of passion and history attached to this car by the mounds of information given! Realistically any buyer isn't going to care about 80% of the stuff that was written. Main points to me in any f/s ad are always, price, condition (ie: running, non-op, rust, ect..), title status and as many detailed pics as possible. If you can cut it down to about 2 paragraphs I think it would help simplify your sale. GL. Link to comment
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