L20bet Turbo Project

[Icehouse]

I used a miller that wasn't water cooled, it took a while before it got hot. Tig welding is the shit! gotta sleep :D

[sjeff64]

ok on post#44 there is a waste gate plate I was wondering about building a plate like building a but I was unsure about the acuation of the waste valve under full vaccume because if it was a solid plate the flapper would hit the plate?

[slodat]

huh?? i have no clue what you are asking... well maybe a small clue.

 

That flange mounts on the back of the turbo. I will drill a hole that lines up with the internal wastegate port. On the downpipe setup a small pipe will connect that port to an external 38mm Tial wastegate. The outlet of the wastegate will then return to the downpipe and out the exhaust.

[Fineline]

Looks good on the turbo project. Things are moving along nicely. Looks like mine might be going in this summer.

[slodat]

Nice! I'm excited to "see" yours running! What are you doing for an oil cooler?

[Fineline]

I used an Earls sandwich adapter and -10an lines. This worked out great because it gave me a pickup point for the oil line to the turbo. The -8 lines go to an earls cooler in the front.

[slodat]

Perfect! Do you have the part numbers you used? What is the port size/configuration on the sandwich adapter?

 

Photos?

[Fineline]

Heres a couple. Ill get you the part #'S and more pics later.

[Fineline]

Heres a couple more.

[slodat]

Did the Earls sandwich adapter have an aux port built in or did you drill/tap it?

[Fineline]

No. The in/out of the adaptor is 3/8" npt. I used a 3/8 to -8 adaptor with a 1/8 port.

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=AER%2DFBM2279&N=700+4294924496+4294839052+4294906752+4294843700+4294906748+115&autoview=sku

 

and then a normal 3/8 to -8 on the other side. Here is the sandwich adapter

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=EAR%2D510ERL&N=700+400041+115&autoview=sku

 

and the cooler

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=EAR%2D41308ERL&N=700+400041+4294888847+4294906639+4294782796+4294787977+4294891535+115&autoview=sku

[slodat]

Are you running the cooler on your current engine? Oil Filter Service Co (local shop that sells AN fittings and lubrication related stuff) told me to make sure the tubes in an oil cooler are at least 5/8" if not 3/4" to ensure the oil will flow through it well. Just curious if you have had any issues.

 

Good idea on the fitting!! I have a -4AN branch T off of my stock sending unit location. I want to put an oil temperature guage sender right on the sandwich adapter. This is the perfect way to do it!!

 

Thanks for the info. I appreciate it. Not a lot of L series turbo info out there.

[datzenmike]

Fineline/slodat, If you run an oil cooler, what about putting the oil temp sender on the inlet to the cooler and not on the cooled side where the pressure switch is located? This will give a far more accurate indication of the temp of your oil coming directly out of the hot engine. With a turbo this engine is going to produce HEAT, and lots of it!

 

Also the cooler has to flow air through it to shed the heat. The cooler in the picture looks like it's blocked at the back with the lower rad tank. A few inches higher and the engine fan would draw air through it even in stop and go traffic.

[Fineline]

You are correct to a certain degree. A turbo does not creat boost at idle. Most dont come on untill 3500 rpm or so. This is when your heat is created. The car is moving when this is happening so there isnt a need for much airflow at idle hence no fan. Same concept as an intercooler. A turbo also uses very little oil. The inlet on most turbos has a restrictor hole. Where people run into problems with turbos and heat is when they run them hard and shut them down. Cutting the oil pressure to something spinning as high as 130000 rpm tends to cook the bearings. The rear side of the cooler has about 1.5" of clearance to the radiator so it gets plenty of flow. Slodat, yes i am running it on my current engine. I cant give you an exact # for oil temp but the whole motor wont ever run hotter than 180 even with the outside 110 or so.

[slodat]

Mike, yes, that is the idea - monitor oil temp on the hot side.

[kiznook]

why not before AND after the cooler...you would know how well it's working that way

[slodat]

Good question. Answer:

1. Damn guages are spendy.

2. I'm concerned with the highest oil temp in the engine mostly.

3. Less crap under the hood = better!

[nismopu]

steve I know your an engineer and you like to know this kind of stuff but to be perfectly honest the temps are not gonna be insane or anything. Unless your just out to figure out how much the oil cooler is helping which in that case i would build a test stand off the car and use a laser temp gun. just my .02 and maybe I can actually come out this friday without having the 620 breakdown again. peace.

[slodat]

Kyle, sounds like we agree on this one. That's why I'm only running one temp guage. I do want the one guage though, just cuz.

[datzenmike]

steve I know your an engineer and you like to know this kind of stuff but to be perfectly honest the temps are not gonna be insane or anything. Unless your just out to figure out how much the oil cooler is helping which in that case i would build a test stand off the car and use a laser temp gun. just my .02 and maybe I can actually come out this friday without having the 620 breakdown again. peace.

 

It's all a mater of degree (pun intended). A turbo L20B is easily capable of 220 plus HP, that's way over twice stock. That's a lot of fuel going through the motor and LOTS of waste heat. Provision has to be made now, to get rid of this extra heat. Besides an extra capacity rad and oil pump, an oil cooler is indispensable for removing heat where the cooling system doesn't reach and preventing temperature breakdown of the oil itself.

 

Without these simple up grades prolonged full throttle (who could resist) will, probably sooner than later, seriously shorten engine life.