Olivia - 69 2 door 510 sedan - fully built CA18DET

[aintnobiscuit]

Well, not a whole lot to report. I've been waiting on coilovers and brakes for a while now. The machinist who makes Troy's brake brackets was on vacation and now they're being anodized. Unfortunately won't be ready until Monday at the earliest and I will be on vacation the whole next week.... sucks ass :(

 

heres a pic of the haltech installed and base map loaded, ready for tuning.

 

Things left to drive the car:

1] Downpipe so I can hook up my 02 sensor

2] Get/fabricate a transmission mount (anybody have sources?)

3] Get the radiator shortened slightly

[aintnobiscuit]

Tonight I'm cutting away the stupid ass brake discs on the rear of the 510 and then finish installing the disc brakes. More pics tomorrow

 

Reinstalled the dash and routing wires permanently

 

Thought these old school Koni shocks were pretty awesome... so a here is a pic.

 

I've been painting pieces as I go, such as the heater box, dash vents, etc.

 

My favorite view of the turbo side

 

Painted the interior with rust preventative paint, mounted the ECU in the glove box (i plan to remove it when i'm not driving the car)

 

Troy Ermish coilovers (front & rear), Wilwood brakes, master cylinder, stainless lines, rotors, etc.

 

Brakes / Suspension mounted

 

A better view of the awesomeness that is Troy's products

 

Wheel fitment over the brakes... looks good to me

 

Found this tiny box with some heads I bought. They spark plugs were still in them. Just thought the old skool boxes were hot... so here you go :)

 

Camber plates I received from Troy this morning

[rusty12ver]

What about ermish's trans mount? I thought those can be made to work.

[aintnobiscuit]

What about ermish's trans mount? I thought those can be made to work.

 

Thanks for the idea... I had not thought of asking Troy for some reason. I'm hoping to finish the wiring tomorrow so it will be time to do the welding this week.... I'm considering buying a mig welder from harbor freight and just trying to do it myself. I have experience arc welding but it's not really the same thing, i don't think...

 

I HATE this little metal plate more than anything else on the car. It was SUCH a bitch to get off... I realize that cutting it off may not have been the "right" way to do it, but I wasn't EVER going to put drum brakes back on the car and I assume most people would never actually have to replace this, so there would be no need to offer it on ratsun.

 

Finished rear suspension

 

Stupid little push start plate I picked up for the hell of it

[aintnobiscuit]

Not much progress lately. Unfortunately I've been getting killed at work. I did find silicon intercooler hoses that are longer before the bend... so no more shortening the radiator. That's solved.

[aintnobiscuit]

This thing is pretty low... i think i need LCA spacers now.

 

Also, there is about 2 cm of clearance between the outer edge of the tire when fully clocked one way or the other... so can't go any lower in the front.

 

Here's the finished product. I still have to put in the throttle cable, clean up all the wiring and put the clutch/brake master cylinder in... but it's all there.

 

From the front with everything installed.

 

The ignition switch I bought with the push start has terrible directions so I may just buy a standard ignition switch to replace my broken one and call it a day..... time to go on ebay.

[aintnobiscuit]

Installed the brake/clutch master cylinders

 

Not sure how I can get MOAR LOWER..... looks like I'm kind of at the mechanical limits of the wheel/tire combo I chose

[aintnobiscuit]

Did a compression test... here are the results:

 

Cylinder 1 - dammit!

 

Cylinder 2 - 4

 

Innovate wideband 02 controller with digital A/F gauge

[aintnobiscuit]

Well, i got to the point of trying to start it up. I found out there was no spark and traced it back to the ignitor chip. I learned from researching on the interwebs that the ignitor chip for the sr, q45 and some other cars (possibly j30) are all interchangeable.... so off to the junkyard I will go. Other than that, all the sensors are reporting properly and showing up in the haltech software... so as soon as I swap this out, it should start up.

 

The only real question is, where do they keep the cookies? And do they have milk too?

[Draker]

J30 are mounted on the rear firewall. If it's the same as a J30 then the VG30DE use the same one also referred to as the PTU. It's located on the left timing belt cover.

[aintnobiscuit]

Awesome, thanks Draker. Going to try and hit the junkyard after work tomorrow.

[fivetenguy]

Tonight I'm cutting away the stupid ass brake discs on the rear of the 510 and then finish installing the disc brakes.

Troy Ermish coilovers (front & rear), Wilwood brakes, master cylinder, stainless lines, rotors, etc.

 

Brakes / Suspension mounted

 

A better view of the awesomeness that is Troy's products

 

Wheel fitment over the brakes... looks good to me

 

 

Awsome work! I love where this car is heading.

 

I like that brake kit. What size are those rotors??

[aintnobiscuit]

Got an igniter, going to polish it up when I get back from a short backpacking trip (Monday) and see if I can get this bitch running.

 

Does anybody else backpack on ratsun?

 

fivetenguy:

For some reason I remember reading the rotors are 12.5" or something along those lines. I purchased them from Troy Ermish. There are no specs on the site, but I could jsut measure them for you if you like.

 

By the way, just so you know, if you purchase the brake kit, you are giving up your e-brake. I assumed the rear calipers had the mechanical e-brake piece but they don't willwood does make these as far as I know. I've considered contacting them to see about a part exchange... but it's not really a top priority as the car isn't even running (yet).

[fivetenguy]

If you get a chance to measure them it would be cool, if not, don't worry about it.

 

Currently I have 280zx brakes all around without an e-brake so to me it's no big deal if the kit won't work with an e-brake. Overall I'm pleased with the results as I get no fade while on the track (even on the hot days at Thunderhill). I just want a system that is a little larger and stronger so I can go deeper into the braking zone.

[aintnobiscuit]

It looks like they are 11"

[aintnobiscuit]

I'll upload a startup video to youtube so I can embed it very soon. Have an issue with oil feed line, so I have to get a new one (it leaks like a MOFO)

 

Towing the car to the new place (now I have a garage dedicated to the 510)

 

Enlisted the help of a friend to mod the crossmember.

[fivetenguy]

It looks like they are 11"

 

Thanks so much for getting back to me. Will be talking to Troy pretty soon.

 

Keep chipping at it (problem / to do list). I want to see this project through! Awsome build.

[aintnobiscuit]

Thanks fivetenguy.... hoping to have it idling normal by this evening. It's so hard not to just work on it day/night.. but I have work and a girlfriend to consider. Neither one likes it when I disappear :)

[aintnobiscuit]

no fuel, checking everything tonight... lame... fuck... titties... really want to drive my car *sigh*

[aintnobiscuit]

I HAVE ROOM TO WORK ON MY CAR NOW!!! w00t!

 

Installed the transmission crossmember

 

New turbo oil feed line!

 

Picked up a buddy club spec II exhaust... going to cut it up so it works with my car.. here's a mockup. (sounds like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZV3vp2mgE4E)

 

New high pressure line for FPR!

[aintnobiscuit]

Purchased some 500cc injectors. No pictures yet as they haven't arrived. I hope this is the last little bump on my road to getting the car running. I have to do the wheel cylinders on my girlfriend's mustang and painting around the house so no updates for a few days until i get the injectors. bye bye!

[aintnobiscuit]

Shit, I tried to do all the other stuff first but hey, I love my datsun... so I had to do a couple things.

 

Pulled the fuel rail to do some injector spray pattern testing and crap like that.

 

Hooked up and mounted the fuel pressure regulator so I can see it.

 

Replaced all the spark plugs with some shiny new gangster ones in the proper heat range

 

And last but not least, I got my car running. I can't drive it obviously, since it's running on the base map, but I did get it started. Please note that I don't intend to continue running the turbo elbow up like it is. I did this because they don't make shit for this engine in this car and it's the only one I could find. I'm going to try and drop the car off to get my exhaust chopped/sized so I can run it all properly.

 

I also set the timing to 10 degrees per the FSM and set the timing in the haltech to match. It's important to note that when setting the timing, you need to lock the timing in the haltech. You can do this by going to Main setup -> Ignition and selecting "Enabled" in the drop down next to "Ignition Lock". Don't forget to disable ignition lock when you're done!

[aintnobiscuit]

Hey,

 

Everyone keeps saying "don't run the car without the exhaust on" like it's going to kill the motor. I've heard that without a manifold the valves can warp but I see motorcycles, cars, all kinds of engines running like a 6 inch pipe off the outlet of the turbo. The turbo creates backpressure and holds in heat close to the head, so what gives? To me having the turbo is the same as having a less restrictive exhaust on the motor.

 

Is there some weight to this theory about not running straight downpipe? I was going to do some overall tuning for idle and really basic low rpm tuning under load so I can drive to the dyno (its about 2 miles away).

 

Who has opinions or knowledge on this? I say it's poo.

[TENDRIL]

if you live in a cold environment, (which you dont) and your motor is really hot and you shut it off with no exhaust piping or muff. it can draw the cold to the valves and do some damage but your in so.cal where the average temp. is 80 all year you will be fine, when i rebuilt my truck motor i ran straight headers for about a week untill i could get exhaust, drove to work (10 miles) and back in the winter in the bay area and had no problems, if your going 2 miles just dont gun it (to be safe) till you get the exhaust set up, since it is a fresh head...

 

btw this thing is fcking sick!!

[rusty12ver]

I read something about this before. If I find the info I will post a link for you. There was a ca powered 1200 that ran no exhaust after the elbow on the turbo for a long time. I never found out about if there was any adverse effects to doing this. It is something I would like read about.