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z24 rebuild


nissanprerunnerdavid

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So I am going to rebuild my z24 and was wondering if it would help me at all to o er bore the head and put some ka pistons in there? What ka pistons would work if I bored it over to 89? Where could I also find the pistons and rods? And any information on boring it out and what to do with that would be awesome!!

next I want to get an after market camshaft. What camshaft should i get for the rebuilt z24? And where would I find one of those?

Last, I want to get a new carb. What is the best upgrade from the Hitachi that the 720 comes stock with? And also where would I vet that? I don't want the most expensive e one just a really good one to upgrade:)

Thanks for all the help!!

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I don't know a whole lot about this yet, but a couple of the parts you are asking about are available on 4x4parts.com (cam and carb) The carb I seem to read about most often is the Weber 32/36, and the cam is just a slightly more aggressive cam profile than stock. but ultimately if you're looking for power, I read that the z24 head is far too restrictive. Anyway, here ya go. Cams: https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/performance-cams-c-367_130.html and Carb: https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/performance-carburetors-c-367_132.html Good luck and keep the posts coming!

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So I am going to rebuild my z24 and was wondering if it would help me at all to o er bore the head and put some ka pistons in there? What ka pistons would work if I bored it over to 89? Where could I also find the pistons and rods? And any information on boring it out and what to do with that would be awesome!!

next I want to get an after market camshaft. What camshaft should i get for the rebuilt z24? And where would I find one of those?

Last, I want to get a new carb. What is the best upgrade from the Hitachi that the 720 comes stock with? And also where would I vet that? I don't want the most expensive e one just a really good one to upgrade:)

Thanks for all the help!!

 

I'm sure you meant to over bore the block? There's no need to over bore the Z24 block they use the same diameter pistons as the KA24E. Well you could go to a slightly oversize if the block is too worn but the KA pistons will fit right in. The KA pistons will increase your compression dramatically though to 9.52

 

There are two different KA24E pistons. The ones in the 240sx are fully floating pins while the D21 truck are of the press in type. If you use the truck KA pistons you can use the Z24 rods.

 

 

Don't misunderstand this but I think from your questions you need to research, research, research. You seen to know the KA has 89mm pistons yet not that your Z24 does too? Have you given any thought to the fact that your Z24 pistons have a 15cc dish in the top while the KA pistons 'dish' is barely 2.8cc?? This will mean your Z24 valves are going to have a lot less clearance and an after market cam will likely have more lift, moving them even closer together? Research this and also why are you raising the compression? Going from 8.5 to 9.6 is about one point of compression, worth about 4% increase in power. That's about 4-6 hp on a Z24... not worth the bother and expense plus having to run higher octane gas.... forever.

 

Biggest bang for the buck is a direct replacement Weber carb from Redline. For $300 you get everything you need to install it. Linkages, manifold adapter and everything bolts up to it. Z24 guys rave about this modification because the stock carb is quite small for the Z24. Yes you can buy them cheaper but you get a 25 year old worn out and rebuilt three times pile of junk with missing parts. Plus it's jetted wrong and doesn't come with an adapter plat for the Z24 manifold. Research!

 

A mild cam would work with this but beware many makers sell basically a stock cam and call it something it's not. Find the stock cam specs and compare. Research!

 

Forget a header, they are a waste of money for the small amount of power gained and the money could be spent on something much more important.

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hello all

so i ahve just finished taking my z24 apart down to the block. when my truck stopped working it had a very loud knock on start up and at high rpms, but not under load and low rpm. i want to rebuild the engine anyway thats why i took it apart. but what do you think the problem is? is it a rod, valve slap or what? i dont know exactly how to check for any of these things so any help on how and what to check would be greatly appreciated.

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This should be on your other post called Z24 rebuild. This will keep all the information you get in one place. Once you read this I'll move it over for you.

A tapping sound (from sharp clicking to loud tap) that stays the same but speeds up with the engine speed is likely a lifter that needs adjusting.

 

A knocking sound, from a heavy hammer hitting wood to a muffled sledge hammer on metal that is louder with heavy throttle and lighter with no load and increases with engine speed sounds like a bad rod bearing. By the time you hear it the crank is udually damaged.

 

Random rattling at idle can be worn timing chain guides. Changing the oil or using thicker oil can sometimes cure this for a while.

 

 

Get a borrow a digital camera and take lots of good pictures. Post them along with your questions. Saves a thousand words.

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Sweet!!!!! Thanks man!! Another question about the rebuild what would i do if i wanted to delete most of my vac lines? Which ones do i take out and which one do i leave on? Does this hurt your gas mileage or what? If you have pictures or know of any i would the help!! Thanks again!!

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I need to ask this question in this thread. I bought a hot street cam(Part# 15-062) from web cams for my z24 and wanted to know if I need offset cam keys or offset cam bushings? I have been searching every where for them or is this cam change and easy replacement? Running a weber 38 as well.

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Sweet!!!!! Thanks man!! Another question about the rebuild what would i do if i wanted to delete most of my vac lines? Which ones do i take out and which one do i leave on? Does this hurt your gas mileage or what? If you have pictures or know of any i would the help!! Thanks again!!

 

If you don't know what they do, don't touch them. For example the Z engines have a fuel shut off system. When decelerating at speed and foot is off the gas the engine is still sucking the idle mixture which is wasted out the exhaust. This system shuts off the idle cut solenoid and actually saves you fuel.Has no effect on running or performance.... why mess with it? EGR.... reduces cylinder temps and risk of detonation but is disconnected at full throttle... why mess with it?

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Ok so got the motor pulled apart to find i spun my #4 rod bearing. There was no bearing keft at all. Im sending the block and head in to get machined monday. Here is my list for the next couple of weeks.

Order my rebuild kit from rockauto

Order my weber

order my header

 

Then after the engine is done i am. Going to

Paint my dash and steering colum

Re upholster my door panels with black material

finish my prerunner bumper

Re index my torsion bars

Find some new seats

get my new tires

 

Thats it for the next couple of weeks:):) will post pics tomorrow!!

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I am pretty sure I heard more then a couple places that the stock header is the best for the 720. I think it is the pacesetter that everyone usually gets. It takes away from the low end torque which is important for us wheelers... unless I am mistaken and this is not for your wheeling rig. Someone chime in and correct me if I misspoke... I will begin the research on it now. See what I come up with.

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