njoz1200ute Posted May 23, 2015 Report Share Posted May 23, 2015 Yes keep us informed, I will be buying the same radiator and would like to know how it mounts! Quote Link to comment
Morrisun Posted May 30, 2015 Report Share Posted May 30, 2015 You may want to check to see if the residual check valve has been removed from your new brake master cylinder, brake line connection at the rear of the mater cylinder, feeds front brakes. It's a lot easier to check this before it's installed on the car. http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=23167 I have purchased new ones and some have it and some don't, if it's in there, the front brakes will drag- feels like the brakes are always slightly on Quote Link to comment
ZLOG Posted June 2, 2015 Report Share Posted June 2, 2015 You may want to check to see if the residual check valve has been removed from your new brake master cylinder, brake line connection at the rear of the mater cylinder, feeds front brakes. It's a lot easier to check this before it's installed on the car. http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=23167 I have purchased new ones and some have it and some don't, if it's in there, the front brakes will drag- feels like the brakes are always slightly on Interesting. I did not check for that before installing. The car is stopping fine and doesn't feel like there is any drag so I hopefully I'm good. Quote Link to comment
ZLOG Posted June 2, 2015 Report Share Posted June 2, 2015 It's a connector for cooling an automatic transmission model, not applicable for your 1200. Check the lower tank for damage-cracks?? The brass connectors are fairly soft, probably OK. You can plug then off/cut them off flush with the gland nuts, they may not be in the way of mounting your radiator. You may want to check out a Sentra, in your local parts pick n pull for rubber isolators and mounting brackets for ideas on mounting your radiator. Assuming I will need to get some different hoses too right? The mechanic took one look at it and didn't believe it would fit, but I said Ratsun and he was like, "oh." 1 Quote Link to comment
Dguy210 Posted June 2, 2015 Report Share Posted June 2, 2015 I actually have the right top mounts for the radiator but I couldn't find them at the time so I ended up just making some. I did end up getting the correct mounts from the PnP over Memorial day weekend, although I'm going to go with a different radiator for the KA. Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted June 29, 2015 Report Share Posted June 29, 2015 I like the Sentra radiator, but I have no idea how to mount it. Has anyone ever used one of these roadster radiators in their 1200?http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-3-core-DATSUN-FAIRLADY-2000-FULL-Warranty-RADIATOR-1969-1970/400943387390?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D29981%26meid%3Decb2cf2ac8274e6ebb855a84c0c2ff36%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D311386759984 1 Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted June 30, 2015 Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 Cross posted from 1200.com. These are the stock Sentra mounts adapted to a B110 1 Quote Link to comment
ZLOG Posted July 21, 2015 Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 I like the Sentra radiator, but I have no idea how to mount it. Has anyone ever used one of these roadster radiators in their 1200? http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-3-core-DATSUN-FAIRLADY-2000-FULL-Warranty-RADIATOR-1969-1970/400943387390?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D29981%26meid%3Decb2cf2ac8274e6ebb855a84c0c2ff36%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D311386759984 This definitely looks easier to mount, I'd be interested in grabbing this one and donating the Sentra radiator if someone can confirm it will fit. Quote Link to comment
Morrisun Posted July 24, 2015 Report Share Posted July 24, 2015 1994 Sentra 1.6 radiator. Need to move horn. Clearance on battery side. Air Flow restriction. Ideas on mounting underside, need to have some space between tank and bottom of core support, if not bent-up brackets, 1.5" exhaust tubing tack in place. I didn't get to top tank brackets, waiting for the them to come in from dealership- got factory mounting grommets! 1 Quote Link to comment
Morrisun Posted August 2, 2015 Report Share Posted August 2, 2015 Ready for surgery. Need to remove some of the sheet metal for more air flow. Base for mounting bottom of new radiator. Grommets and lower brackets. Brackets need trimmed-up, mounting holes drilled and then painted. A look from the passengers side. And from the drivers side. Still need to get upper mounting bracket figured out. Ordered a couple different ones from the dealer. I will trim off the auto trans connections. Plus the wiring, plumbing the hoses, cap and reservoir tank. Plus the stuff I forgot! Quote Link to comment
Morrisun Posted August 8, 2015 Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 Core support mounting brackets painted, shortened lower 1200 radiator hose and reused. New hose and cap. I went with Pathfinder grommets and brackets- modified the brackets and made spacers under top rail of core support. Still need to mount fan and finish wiring. Might make Blue Lake picnic with Smurf after all... Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted August 9, 2015 Report Share Posted August 9, 2015 Cool to know that Pathfinder ones work too! Great job, looks the business. Quote Link to comment
Morrisun Posted August 9, 2015 Report Share Posted August 9, 2015 Basically, spliced two radiator supports into the same radiator core support. 20.5" of the 25.5" of surface width is in the air flow. The white side is the side spliced into the core. Fan fit nicely. When with a flex hose, after cutting a couple of other guesses up! Not much room left on the core support, used 210 overflow bottle with modified mounting bracket. Tested fan in the driveway, turned on and off- I like that part. Took it for a ride tonight on the freeway, fan didn't come on, but true test in in traffic on a hot day. Thank you for letting me hi-jack this thread, this just one way to do this swap. I am sure there other and better ways to do the same thing. I am going to make to the picnic at Blue Lake with 9 1/2 hours to spare! Now about that roll-bar... Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted August 9, 2015 Report Share Posted August 9, 2015 nice man! dig the radiator mod Quote Link to comment
DogoX Posted September 6, 2015 Report Share Posted September 6, 2015 you can also use a Honda Civic radiator with minimal mods Quote Link to comment
ZLOG Posted September 24, 2015 Report Share Posted September 24, 2015 Car started up sounding like a lawnmower today. I was able to drive it around, but it was shaky and didn't have a lot of power. Any easy things I can check before taking it to the shop? Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted September 24, 2015 Report Share Posted September 24, 2015 Timing? Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted September 26, 2015 Report Share Posted September 26, 2015 Car started up sounding like a lawnmower today. I was able to drive it around, but it was shaky and didn't have a lot of power. Any easy things I can check before taking it to the shop? Spark plug wires (are they all connected well?) Spark plugs (are they all clean/brown or is one wet/black?) Distributor cap (any corrosion on the terminals inside it?) Quote Link to comment
ZLOG Posted October 12, 2015 Report Share Posted October 12, 2015 So the shaking stopped later that day randomly after stopping by work on the way home. There isn't the shaking or weird guttural noises any longer, but I am still concerned that something isn't right and haven't driven it much. I'm going to spend some time this week on it so hopefully I will have something more to update later. Thanks guys for the help! Quote Link to comment
ZLOG Posted October 16, 2015 Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 Changed the fuel filter and it starts up really nice now. Old one was nasty. I also replaced a headlamp that was mismatched. Still more to do. I might pull the plugs next Quote Link to comment
ZLOG Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 After I changed the fuel filter the car has been running and driving without stalling. There is still some smoke upon acceleration and start up, but not as much. Not bad for changing a 3 dollar part. I worked on swapping the soggy door card over the weekend and pulled a broken spring out of the bottom of the door. After a little fishing around, I found the other end of the spring still connected to the locking assembly. This is probably the reason my door doesn't fully lock. I went out and found a similar spring and cut it to size, hoping I could blindly replace where it came from, but I ran out of daylight. I looked in the book and found some pictures of the lock assembly, but I can't seem to see exactly where this other spring goes. I would like to avoid removing the whole lock setup for now. Anyone have any thoughts? Found this picture on datsun1200.com, which I think might be the angle that shows the spring. Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 If memory serves.....that does look familiar. You may be able to pull the lock/latch assembly out enough to install the spring but I don't know for sure. Quote Link to comment
Davec Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 u can get the spring for the door handle off of a 620 pick up they use the same one. if it is broken it won't let the inside door go all the way shut so you can not lock the door from the outside Quote Link to comment
Morrisun Posted November 15, 2015 Report Share Posted November 15, 2015 If this spring pictured, is missing, the door lock will not work. This is the little guy you are looking for on a 620 pickup. Yet another spring...and another view of the latch. Hope this helps some. Quote Link to comment
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