Jester Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 Looks pretty well tied in the way it is. By the time you put a tower brace on, which I assume you will, It shouldn't go anywhere. Paint that sucker and start putting back together. 2 Quote Link to comment
Cpl620 Posted June 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 good input josh. looking at the load around the frame it does make sense to change that center brace to spread the load. I was concerned with the frame wanting to twist in some areas after posting the last bit, so i started making some plates for where i initially bent the frame with the thin inner metal. I know they are not structurally sound with the bend in the design, but its better than nothing. and jester, some how i totally forgot about doing that. im too focused on how it is right now because i dont want to miss anything and have to repaint. 4 Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted June 25, 2014 Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 Those look well placed. Just a side note; next time, radias the ends instead of square tips. I have welded a SHIT LOAD of gusset plates to the bottom the refurbished box cars and hopper cars. :thumbup: 1 Quote Link to comment
Cpl620 Posted June 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 Good to know. Im not sure I have the optimal angle either. Do you weld lines past the tips out and up? I hear it relieves stress to keep from sheering at the ends. Quote Link to comment
Cpl620 Posted June 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2014 so this part is going to take some time...not having a CnC machine and cutting solid stock with a grinder sucks. i just need to drill the holes through them and weld them in with the holes i drilled in the frame tubing. I have a boat in the driveway so i cant take the frame and paint it anyways. so in the mean time, just doing little things... 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted June 26, 2014 Report Share Posted June 26, 2014 What is that for? I bet that made a lot of dust :) Quote Link to comment
Cpl620 Posted June 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2014 Its going to be the bolt-on connection for the strut towers to the rollcage (i still need to drill the holes). Ill have two more sections upside down coming out of the firewall above these, that way the towers are protected from any lateral or horozontal load, and still allows me to remove the cab. The design will have the cage connected to the front an rear towers, stiffening everything. I cant see the dust any more. The ground is covered in sand blasting media. Hahahhah 1 Quote Link to comment
Cpl620 Posted June 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 ALRIGHT! so i got this sucker up on some sawhorses, gave it a phospho bath and let it sit. tomorrow ill be wiping it down and doing a chem burn and then its time to PAINT! 7 hours to go! 1 Quote Link to comment
Cpl620 Posted June 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 and now i give you...... 6 Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted June 29, 2014 Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 Right on man. Looks awesome. NOW GET THAT SOME BITCH BOLTED TOGETHER! 2 Quote Link to comment
Cpl620 Posted June 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 cleaned up a little to get ready to put this thing together. pushed some bushings in and started to clean some old coilovers again. 1 Quote Link to comment
finney Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 Jealous, i been slowly painting mine with a brush and POR15 for a few days now. looking good Quote Link to comment
'70dime Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 Hell Yes, can't wait to see this thing come together. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 Looks good! :thumbup: 1 Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 WOW You've been on my FB for the last year it seems...and I just now figured out who you are here. EPIC FAIL. Anyways, been following this all along, it's gonna be sweet! Can't wait to see the finished project. 1 Quote Link to comment
Cpl620 Posted June 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 Hahah the wheels are slowly turning now matt. @Finney. Its a good choice, if I didn't go down to bare frame I probably would have gone with the POR. I just got a smokin deal on this stuff too. Thanks guys. I would be bolting it together, but I want to give a fair amount of cure time so im not chipping everything. Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 looks great!!!! im excited to see it come together :thumbup: but for anyone wondering POR is pretty much crap i have used it twice now with flaky results literally it flakes off if on anything not rusting through ...and would not recommend it unless on the roughest of rust surfaces, but even than you should be repairing that rust . CPL, sorry for rant 1 Quote Link to comment
finney Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 i am having great results with POR15 on bare steel, have ranex everything before and its not painted onto rust, even though it says you can I would never work with rusty steel, clean and replace everything. great finish and has to be hit with a grinder to remove. Quote Link to comment
Cpl620 Posted July 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 You just have to make sure its a rough surface is all. If you sanded down with a grinder and left some pretty good roughness, its fine. I will say that a smooth surface will eventually peel and flake like tendril said, but that shit is nuts if prepped right. I had it pull ip the concrete floor in my garage. Edit for post #510! 1 Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 well dont get me wrong, in some spots it takes a grinder and even holds up to some sand blasting!!! but my problem is the inconsistency that "I" have experienced, that was with scuffing prep and cleaning. one spot will stay on the metal and hold up to blasting for a while, and 4 in. away i can peel it up.... and for your application finney i think it looks and will work great ! i just don't think i will fund them anymore Quote Link to comment
Cpl620 Posted July 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 yes, my rear sway bar is mounted upside down, but is that really the point? 1 Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted July 2, 2014 Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 love the brakes!!! wow!! Quote Link to comment
Cpl620 Posted July 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 30mm 300zx brakes. finding "cheap" wheels that clear them and look OK is proving to be a headache. ill have to bite the bullet and get some spacers. Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted July 2, 2014 Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 yea..... i know :rofl: , i have them on the front of my wagon..... i have 1 1/4 spacers with snow flakes 1 Quote Link to comment
Cpl620 Posted July 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 faaaaaaaaak! that thing is HUGE haha Quote Link to comment
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