Dguy210 Posted April 20, 2013 Report Share Posted April 20, 2013 the last clutch kit I got for mine, came with two different sized bushings. I do not remember the brand though. What size alignment tool did it come with? The one for my 63a came with the bushing and alignment tool for the L series (L14 I believe). 1 Quote Link to comment
RedBanner Posted April 20, 2013 Report Share Posted April 20, 2013 ^^ yeah, I cut the tip off to get them to work. Quote Link to comment
j_boy_619 Posted April 22, 2013 Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 So what's the link for the right clutch? I saw a "superior" clutch for the B210 on flea bay but now I'm a little worried about the the wrong one. Quote Link to comment
B210GX Posted April 22, 2013 Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 So what's the link for the right clutch? I saw a "superior" clutch for the B210 on flea bay but now I'm a little worried about the the wrong one. Idk I usually buy my kits from my local machine shop. Been dealing with them for 20+ years. of course I get the "good or better " rate, than the average Joe. Quote Link to comment
Dguy210 Posted April 22, 2013 Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 In regards to the Clutch kit: Is there a different between the kits for the 4-speed and 5-speed? If so what is the difference? Is it the number of splines? Rockauto has 6-7 different kinds of clutch kids but none of them specify that are for a 5 speed. @datzenmike the parts numbers you give me are for the 5 speed, right? So if I can’t find them at the Nissan dealer I can get NAP to cross reference them?I didn't see this answered so: The clutch disk for the 63a 5 speed dogleg is different from the 4 speed and other 5 speed kits. It needs to be the larger shaft more spline type. Off the top of my head I believe the stock 4 speed is an 18t while the one you want for the 63a is a 24t the same as the L series splines. This is the type you want: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NCF1106018_0316533210 This is the one for the 4 speed: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NCF1106016_0316482987 Quote Link to comment
Sierra Posted April 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 Thanks Dguy210 that info is very helpful. I will order that kit today. Quote Link to comment
PineClone Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 For those attempting the auto to manual swap, i wanted to add a couple things i learned along the way. Sorry for resurrecting an old post... The Rhino Pack clutch kit came with the wrong pilot bushing (and thus the wrong diameter alignment tool). The slave cylinder that came with it did not include the push rod or rubber boot. If i had it to do over again, i would probably buy the parts separately and verify that the OD and ID were correct on the pilot bushing. I ended up rigging my own alignment tool with a dowel and some electrical tape. My automatic does not have the bracket where you would secure the end of the flexible hydraulic hose coming from the slave cylinder to the hard line. I am in the process of finding an alternative for this. The shop manual and other diagrams i've seen online have a clutch return spring shown. Based on what i've read on this forum, the return spring is not needed. We shall see. As a slightly off-topic issue...As has been said many times on this forum, the auto parts guy will try to sell you GL-5 gear oil. I knew they would try this and i went ahead and let them convince me to get the GL-5. He even told me to never believe what you read on the forums. I finally called my local tranny guy (who rebuilt mine) and he said to use GL-4 or the warranty on the tranny would be voided. That was good enough for me! I returned the GL-5 and found a place that sells GL-4. I have a lot of dangling wires and not sure where they go. There are three electrical components on the 63A and will be trying to figure out where the all go next. Quote Link to comment
CWhip Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 I had to jump the neutral safety switch in the rear harness and the other connections should be for the reverse lights. This is for a 81 210 and not a "b" so take it as such. Good luck. Quote Link to comment
PineClone Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 I had to jump the neutral safety switch in the rear harness and the other connections should be for the reverse lights. This is for a 81 210 and not a "b" so take it as such. Good luck. A bit more detail please. I have the two wires sticking out at the shifter. Do these get fused together? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 9, 2013 Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 In the above picture the neutral gear switch is... at the top. The switch half way down is the reverse lamp switch. In this picture the neutral gear switch is missing but the middle one is the reverse lamp switch and the very bottom is the top gear switch. All that's really needed is the reverse lamp switch connected. The two wires to it are usually Red/Black stripe 1 Quote Link to comment
PineClone Posted July 9, 2013 Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 In the above picture the neutral gear switch is... at the top. The switch half way down is the reverse lamp switch. In this picture the neutral gear switch is missing but the middle one is the reverse lamp switch and the very bottom is the top gear switch. All that's really needed is the reverse lamp switch connected. The two wires to it are usually Red/Black stripe Great! Thank you! Quote Link to comment
Sierra Posted January 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 So after much procrastination, other projects getting in the way, and a little thing called fatherhood I finally found some time to dropped my automatic transmission so I can installed the 5 speed manual. With the help of my little brother, we removed the automatic transmission with no problems what so ever. Then we installed the manual pedal plate (3 pedal mount), master cylinder and fluid line. The 5 speed transmission got some love, nice cleanup inside an out, then we installed the old clutch, and plate. We encounter hiccup when we presented the automatic transmission mount to the crossmember and it was completely off. We decided then it was a good stopping point. So we are now just waiting for the right mount to come in. Since we are at a stopping point I order a new clutch kit from RockAuto, I got the Brute Power/Perfection clutch (6547537A). We will continue the project next weekend. I will add more as we go along. Here are some pictures: Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 Take a look at the car. There may be 3 mount holes for the crossmember and only the back and the middle holes used with the auto. By sliding it forward and using the middle and the front holes it might work. You might also turn the crossmember 180 and get it to fit. My 710 uses the same cross member for auto and manual it just uses the other set of mounting holes in the body. Worth a look. Quote Link to comment
PineClone Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 I shared with Sierra in a PC an issue that i ran into. After installing the tranny, i had a really rough time getting the slave cyl to fit without seriously wedging the clutch fork. This put a lot of pressure on the push rod and just didn't seem right. I consulted with B210GX (from whom i purchased the tranny) and he remembered that there should be a 1/8" plate between the tranny and the motor. Of course he had one in his collection and he shipped it to me. I had to pull the transmission out, insert the plate and reinstall. This made all the difference. Sierra was asking about this in a PC today, indicating that he may not have this plate. Based on my experience that plate is essential and will save a lot of work. Anyone else know something about this? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 Yes all B-210 manuals have an engine plate sandwiched between engine and transmission. This covers the entire front of the flywheel and keeps dirt and water out. B-210 automatics do not, and only the lower half of the plate to cover the bottom half of the torque converter and it is removable. Quote Link to comment
Sierra Posted January 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 Is this the plate you guys are referring too? 1 Quote Link to comment
B210GX Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 No its not the droid plate you are looking for. It will cover the upper trans opening . But it will also go behind the flywheel as well 1 Quote Link to comment
PineClone Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 If I recall correctly it is the exact circumference of the bell housing. Quote Link to comment
Sierra Posted January 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 Well... Now I am screwed. Unless someone has an extra plate that they are not using. Quote Link to comment
Sierra Posted January 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2015 Disappointing Update: got the clutch from RockAuto. Wrong clutch :( The diameter of the inner hole of the clutch is too small for the main gear shaft. I'm returning it tomorrow and possibly sending the old clutch to be repaste at my local shop. Quote Link to comment
Sierra Posted January 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2015 Found the engine backing plate and made some modifications to a 4 speed transmission mount. We are back on track. Quote Link to comment
Sierra Posted January 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 Transmission is installed. Need to bleed the master and see how it goes. Couple of questions for the peps that have done this swap. 1. For the reverse switch do I bring the wires that where lest unplug from the automatic shifter? 2. What about the top switch? Where that one connects? 3. What about the multiple pin connector (see picture)? Do I have to do anything with it? 4. Any other electrical issues that I need to take care off before I fire it up? [/url Quote Link to comment
Sierra Posted February 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 So the saga continues... Last night we finally finished installing the 5 speed. 1. Bled the clutch, master and slave works great 2. GL-4 oil is in the transmission Now we just need to "by-pass the neutral safety switch" We have try doing this but Just can figure it out. Any advice, instructions, pictures are greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 There is likely 4 wires to the old auto transmission. Two are for the reverse lights and can be connected to the reverse switch on the 5 speed. The other two are the starter interlock which prevents starting in any auto trans position OTHER than PARK and NEUTRAL. These two wires should be joined together. Note that the can can now be turned over while in gear. This will move the car using only the starter and can result in the engine starting and driving off. Get used to placing in neutral and setting the parking brake or slipping into neutral before starting. Quote Link to comment
Sierra Posted February 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 Here are pictures of what I am working with. [/url Quote Link to comment
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