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320 brakes, overhaul


zenndog

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here is a PM i sent to tana and i have posted similar threads on other datsun an nissan sites:

"I am looking for parts to overhaul the brakes on my 320 pick up, wheel cylinders or kits, and the two front brake line and the rear line, shoes and drums all around plus any info on what later stuff might be usable if you know. Thanks, zenon"

I just purchased a 1964 datsun 320, Usually when ever i buy an old car i overhaul the breaks first, if it running that is. So as soon as i bought my 320 i went online to get the parts to do so. Well here i am two days and about 20 posts later. Haven't found any parts, specific info is sparse and "urban" legends abound

I started this thread to tell everyone exactly what i find out and maybe more importantly, what i do to get these brakes working again, any comments advice, info is of course welcome. zenon

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rusty, I am in los angeles, that is a long way to ship, i haven't disassembled the brakes yet so i think since it seems to be so hard to find these parts i will make shure i know exactly what i need first. i will post more info as soon as i disassemble the brakes. thanks all. zenon

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PS

 

yeah, i have not posted 20 posts on this site and that may be a slight exageration anyways. But i started looking for brake parts and info on-line and found the nissan owners forum, datsun pick-up lovers forum,and the north west datsun enthusiasts forum, and i posted on those sites as well as this one so i guess i got a little exited. zenon

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1964 Datsun L320, brake parts

 

Here are some part numbers and pics i found on rockauto.com

 

BA-0721936.jpg

521 front wheel cylinder, Beck/Arnley #0721936

 

BA-0722561.jpg

521 rear wheel cylinder, Beck/Arnley #0722561

 

BA-0722660.jpg

521 master cylinder, Beck/Arnley #0722660

 

BA-0730259.jpg

521 rear brake line, Beck/Arnley #0730259

 

BA-0731188.jpg

521 front brake line, Beck/Arnley #0731188

 

DRMN-H36737.jpg

521 front brake line, Dorman #H36737 ( half the cost of Beck/Arnley )

 

DRMN-HW17219.jpg

520 rear brake hardware kit, Dorman #HW17219

 

DRMN-HW17200.jpg

520 frnt brake hardware kit, Dorman #HW17200

 

BA-0810168.jpg

520 rear brake shoes, Beck/Arnley #0810168

 

BA-0810150.jpg

520 front brake shoes, Beck/Arnley #0810150

 

BA-0830307.jpg

520 rear drum, Beck/Arnley #0830307 (wholesaler closeout-13 left when I ordered)

 

520 front drum, Beck/Arnley #0800307 (no picture, but it looks very similar to rear)

 

BA-0722678.jpg

620 master cylinder, Beck/Arnley #0722678 ( The PO installed new 521 master so I decided to buy this

master to see if i could get a dual master, looked similar in pictures so i will keep my fingers crossed)

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]2eDeYe,

I am going to keep the truck stock for the most part right now, I did PM BEEBANI, I think they will work with my truck but Mklotz70 is going to be putting discs on his NL320 and is planning on posting it, so I will at least wait and see what he has to show. I am new to datsuns and i don't want to make major changes until I learn more about this new truck, new to me that is.

I have already recieved most of the parts, they came in two giant boxes brought by fed-ex.SWEET! I will posting my progress with lots of pics!

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1964 L320, tear down, part 1

 

Well I got the parts today, at least most of them, and during the week I started taking apart the brakes, here are some pics....

 

1964DATSUN2.jpg

 

above is the right rear

 

1964DATSUN3.jpg

 

above is the inside, I don't know if you can tell but the backing plate on this wheel is different than the rest.

This wheel looks super clean, drum looks new.

 

1964DATSUN4.jpg

 

The same wheel, the drum came off easy, after i loosened the adjuster. Could I be so lucky...........

 

1964DATSUN5.jpg

 

left rear....NO! No such luck! look at this greasy mess, i might need to order oil seals! or maybe PO squirted some oil in here,

or maybe it is brake fluid. What a mess? Hard to loosen adjuster and in my frustration got me first official knuckle whap

while working on the datsun. OUCH!

 

1964DATSUN6.jpg

 

nother pic of left rear, this drum must be made right, it was very tight on hub

 

1964DATSUN8.jpg

 

nother pic, featuring improvised brake adjusting tool and super-fine general purpose adjusting device (hammer)

 

1964DATSUN10.jpg

 

on to the left front, hard to adjust, tight on hub as well, had 1 locking/locating screw installed

 

1964DATSUN12.jpg

 

front wheels very dirty, shoes chewed up

 

1964DATSUN13.jpg

 

The tires are to large, they were rubbing all over, who the "f" would drive their truck/car like this?

 

1964DATSUN14.jpg

 

front right, hard as well, but getting the hang of it now, both locating/locking screws in this wheel

 

1964DATSUN15.jpg

 

more rubbing

 

1964DATSUN16.jpg

 

more slime, can you see the shoes and how chewed up they are?

 

1964DATSUN0.jpg

 

sidebar: the rims are 15" rims and have huge tires, the original caps held on by three pan head screws screwed

in place of the original style hubcap nubs on original rims

 

1964DATSUN1.jpg

 

maybe you can see in this pic

 

Well that is all, i have new pics but can't down load from cam at home right now so maybe tomorrow

Thw next step is to dismantle brakes and hubs, clean them, check seals, ect......you'll see

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  • 2 weeks later...

1964 320, Extra parts update

 

 

Here is the next round, I will start with a few extra parts I ordered

 

 

BA0513079.jpg

 

 

520/521 wheel bearing, BECK/ARNLEY #0513079, you will see why

 

 

BA0521575.jpg

 

520/521 rear inner grease seal, BECK/ARNLEY #0521575

 

 

BCA-NATIONAL1974.jpg

 

 

520/521 rear outer grease seal, BCA-NATIONAL #1974 ****(wrong part-see below)****

 

520/521 front inner(only)grease seal, TIMKEN #1977 ****( also use for rear outer, see below )****

 

The grease seals are being replaced because of the large amounts of oil/slime in the brake area, I think the seals looked ok but why risk it?

 

The rear wheel bearing on the driver side looked like this......

 

 

100_2762.jpg

 

 

I hope you can see the bad part, anyway, I am going to post my take apart the rear axle assembly adventure In a separate post, It will be called " all your bases are belong to us" in honor of the factory service manual grammer. After an hour or so I figured out what it was saying to do

 

This is just a quick post, more to come, I have been short on time, This is a brief view in to some of the stuff you may encounter, I am shure many of you know this.

 

Oh by the way, one of the new wheel cylinders for the front brakes didn't fit right so i sent it back, The mounting stud was to close to the locating nub on the cyl. Oh well. Nother one on the way!

 

UPDATE!!!!! The outer rear seals above for the 520/521 did not work, the 1977 # is the right seal for the front and rear. I sent the part #1974 back and ordered two more of the #1977. This part number seems to be the same for a few different manufacturers, but no stores near me had them on hand, they have to be ordered.Z.

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1964 320, brake tear down, part 2

 

Boy do i need some of those brake shoe pliers, but I make due one more time with vise grips, screw driver and nubby fingers

 

I didn't take to any photos of removing brake shoes. The process was fairly straight forward;

 

1.The front shoes were simple, especially with the hub removed first, the shoes only mount with springs so with the hub off it was easy to remove them.

 

2.The rear were harder because you can't remove the axle with out the backing plate, the axle and the plate won't come out without removing the e-brake cable, and i think it would be a neat trick to remove the e-brake cable without having the shoe it mounts to removed from the backing plate. Anyways, the springs and such are a little tricky to get at with the axle flange there but boo-hoo.

One other note i will re-address during reassembly, the larger spring goes on the bottom. If you look at the pics of the rears with the drums removed, the dirty side is right, the clean side has the fat spring on top which was rubbing against the back of the axle flange in that position. I checked the springs as well and the smaller spring is stiffer and the hooks are reversed so it fits better with all the e-brake hardware. It shure helps to remember with alot of pics taken so you don't have to remember.

 

3. Front wheel cylinder removal, the fronts had one 7/16" stud (11/16" wrench) and the bleeder screw/banjo fitting. both fronts were tight in the backing plate and took some tapping on the stud with the nut in place to get loose

 

4. Rear wheel cylinder removal, four 1/4" studs ( 7/16" wrench) and bleeder/banjo fitting. the old cylinder was tight, the more recently "worked on" cylinder was easier.

 

5. adjusters, Clip removal, assuming your clips are put on right, i used a monkey wrench, 1/2", and slipped the open end under the top clip nub ( don't know how to describe it better, hopefully the pictures are good enough)

then i used the wrench to lift the nub above the two tabs of the lower clip(1). Then i used a screwdriver hooked on the back side of the clip levered against the suspension to push the clip forward over the tabs of the bottom clip(2). I couldn't take pics because it takes two hands, so the pics are of what each hand was doing at the same time. Does that make sense?

 

100_2843.jpg

 

 

1

 

 

100_2845.jpg

 

 

2

 

now just do those two pictures at the same time with both hands, wrench in left, screwdriver in right. Easy right?:(:mad:;)

 

Here are some pics of the aftermath

 

 

100_2723.jpg

 

 

100_2736.jpg

 

 

I am trying to keep unecessary pics down to a minimum

 

Here are parts cleaned, just with lacquer thinner

 

 

100_2764.jpg

 

 

rear

 

 

100_2728.jpg

 

 

front, i am missing one of the clips for the adjuster

 

 

next post will show removing the rear axle and axle bearing to replace grease seals. And some of the fun stuff i discovered!

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1964 L320, rear axle disassembly, bearing removal

 

exerpt from the factory service manual found on the620.com courtesy of kenbagby of olddatsunpickuplovers.com:

 

From page 156 in the online document ( Fig. 14 is on page 158)

AXLE SHAFT REMOVAL

Jack up the axle on the blocks. Unscrew and remove the brake drum using a screw driver.

 

If the brake linings should hold the drum when the hand brake is released, slack off the brake shoe adjuster a few notches.

 

Take off the fix bolts of the brake disc and remove the axle shaft assembly as shown Fig. 14. Tap out with swing hummer holding wheel stud bolts with rear axle shaft. Draw out the shaft and disc assembly by gripping it outside of the brake disc.

 

 

Well the steps should be perfectly clear now. Having removed the bearing from the shaft you can remove the old grease seal and replace it. Wait, you look slightly confused, didn't the factory service manual describe everything clearly?

 

How unsporting of me, how american, poking fun at the technical engineer who transcribed the real directions into english way back in 1964 or earlier. After all, I will probably never speak or write japanese.

 

so here is the step by step as performed by me in my quest to replace my grease seals.

 

 

1. You must first disassemble the brakes, remove the drums, loosening the adjuster to get them off if you need to. Remove the springs, and remove the e-brake cable, you will need to pull the axle out of the rear end housing and the e-brake cable will stop you from doing this. the e-brake arm is attached to the rear facing brake shoe and it is clipped in and held by a spring, Maybe it is not necessary but i removed the brake shoe first so i could push back the spring and twist out the cable from the e-brake arm.

here are some photos that show the parts, the backing plate will still be mounted when you do these steps, I just took the pics to show the parts and how they fit together because i didn't take pics while i was doing the work.

 

 

100_2854.jpg

 

 

E-brake arm and cable with spring

 

 

100_2855.jpg

 

 

This shows how the cable goes through the backing plate

 

 

100_2856.jpg

 

 

This is how i got it off

 

 

100_2858.jpg

 

 

plus a little working in this manner.

 

 

The cable was hard to get out of the plate, i was getting frustrated and had to remind my self to be patient!!

 

 

2. Once the brakes are removed then you can loosen the four nuts that hold on the bearing housing. The backing plate for the brakes will not come off of the axle, it is trapped by the bearing housing. After removing the nuts the axle was still tight on the rear end housing. The bolts have a tight fit through all the flanges , a light press fit. I used the nuts at the ends of the bolts and gently tapped with a small hammer to get them loose.Here are some pics.

 

 

100_2766-1.jpg

 

 

this is a pic of the axle pulled out, you can see the four bolts. See how the whole assembly comes out together.( That small ring you can see on the axle is supossed to be on the other side of the bearing, the last time someone worked on this axle they must have left it off when they pressed on the bearing and didn't want to redo it. I am glad they stuck it in there on the wrong side for me to find, intsead of tossing it out!!!!!!!!! )

 

 

100_2736.jpg

 

 

Another pic showing the greasy stuff. This was the first one i took apart.

 

 

3. Now that the axle is off you must remove the locknut, it has a locking plate and threads on to the axle. Look for the tab on the locking plate which is bent up and tap it down to clear the lock nut. Then use a screwdriver and gently tap the nut off, once loose it should turn by hand.

 

 

 

100_2894.jpg

 

 

 

100_2734.jpg

 

 

Here is a picture, i think you can see the locknut and lockring

 

 

100_2743.jpg

 

 

Here is the axle again with lockring removed, the bearing is pressed onto the shaft. In this pic i had set the backing plate on some 2x4's and tried to knock it out, no luck!!! This is the point i went and read the online manual and stared at it for a long time. Fig. 14 was the spark that ignited the flame. The "swing hummer" mentioned in the text was a "slide hammer". Well goly, I Have one of those. The text means that after you remove the assembly and take off the lock ring, put the axle back into the rear end housing, put the bolts back on. Then use a slide hammer which attaches to the lug nuts to pull the axle out of the bearing. here are the pics.

 

4. this step is in picture form

 

 

100_2747-1.jpg

 

 

The slide hammer

 

 

100_2757-1.jpg

 

 

Axle re-installed with slide hammer on lugs, a few good waps and.....

 

 

100_2758-1.jpg

 

 

TA DA!!!!!!! axleicus-removicus to quote the scientific jargon

 

 

Here is the front and back of the backing plate while off of the axle, before the bearing housing is removed

 

 

100_2769.jpg

 

 

100_2767.jpg

 

 

I removed the bearing housing by putting the nuts back on the studs and tapping them out with a small hammer, I saw it on a thread here about putting dics brakes on a 520 or 521.

 

 

 

5. now you can pop out the grease seal and check out the bearing and race, hope yours doesn't look like mine

 

 

100_2762.jpg

 

 

must of sat for a long time? the race is checked as well and the bearing looked worn as well.

 

 

6. To remove the bearing i welded a small piece of bar stock to it, fliped it over and tapped it with a hammer tell it fell out of the bearing housing

 

 

100_2860.jpg

 

 

 

Now that the whole thing is apart I cleaned the bearing housing and made shure that there were no dings or scratches on the surfaces where the bearing race fits, everything looks good so I am ready to put everything back together

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  • 3 weeks later...

1964 L320 rear axle reassembly

 

 

1. After removeing the bad bearing race i was ready to re-install the new one, unfortunatly i took no pictures. I basically found a piece of pipe that was a similar diameter and gently tapped the race into place, i made shure the bearing housing was clean and there were no scratches or dings were the race seats. I also applied a little grease. When tapping i gently move around in a circle because the bearing tends to want to kink when you don't have a press to apply uniform pressure. Then i tapped in the grease seal with a blunt ( filed down ) screwdriver and a small hammer, again i wipe a little grease on the seal. here are the pics i have

 

 

100_2861.jpg

 

 

Here are the parts

 

 

 

100_2864.jpg

 

 

 

Tapping in the seal, did i mention that this screwdriver is "blunt" as in filed down all round and flat on the end. I shure there is a better tool but the seal went in easy. Only light tapping. DON'T WRECK YOUR SEAL.

 

 

 

100_2865.jpg

 

 

 

All done. Ready to reassemble axle

 

The first step is to put the bearing housing back onto the backing plate.

 

 

 

100_2880.jpg

 

 

 

The bearing housing is set on a 2x4 with the seal facing up, then i place the backing plate down on it with the back(outside) facing up, then with the holes hanging over the edge of the 2x4 I tap in the mounting bolts which have a snug fit

 

Now the backing plate/bearing race assy is ready to be put back on the axle. I started ny first reinstalling the bearing spacer on the axle( this can be done before or after the backing plate is put on), the axle is standing on the flange for these steps

 

 

 

100_2881.jpg

 

 

 

this is the "down" side of the spacer, the 45 degree relief fits over a radius on the axle

 

 

 

100_2882.jpg

 

 

 

This is the "up" side of the spacer, it is flat

 

Now i wiped some grease on the seal and set the backing plate on the axle as well

 

 

 

100_2884.jpg

 

 

 

Here is the backing plate/bearing assy on the axle.Then I slather some grease in the housing and pack the bearing with grease as well, before setting the bearing on the axle

 

 

 

100_2885.jpg

 

 

 

Here is the bearing resting on the axle, it will not drop into place on its own, remember we had to use the slide hammer tp remove it.

 

 

 

100_2886.jpg

 

 

 

So I used a piece of 1 1/2 pipe from the hardware store to hammer it on. I just slid it down the axle with force. Careful not to hit the threads for the locknut.

 

 

 

100_2887.jpg

 

 

 

Bearing in place, now time for the lockring. This is for holding the locknut in place. The tabs are slightly bent and should face "up"

 

 

 

100_2889.jpg

 

100_2890.jpg

 

 

 

There is a tab which locates the lockring in a slot on the axle. The locknut has a "top" and "bottom" as well

 

 

 

100_2891.jpg

 

 

 

This is the bottom or "down" side

 

 

 

100_2892.jpg

 

 

 

This is the side which goes "up"

 

 

 

100_2893.jpg

 

 

 

I thread the lock nut on by hand and then tap it with a screwdriver and hammer to tighten it

 

 

 

100_2894.jpg

 

 

 

Then bend up the tab that lines up on the lockring to hold the locknut in place. I dont know if there is any torque spec for the locknut, I couldn't find one. Since bearing preload is determined by the axle spacers as far as i could tell, I just tapped the lockring into place until it was tight.

 

 

 

100_2895.jpg

 

 

 

Before putting the axle back in the housing I put on the shims that were on there when I removed it.There is a split in the shims so you can adjust end play with the e-brake cable installed, I put that split up, So that grease wouldn't leak down through the seam.

 

I guess i didn't take any picks, but I slathered some grease in the axle housing and a little on the inside seal, and slipped the axle onto the housing. You have to line up the splines and the bolts almost at the same time to get the axle back into place. Then I used two of the old nylock nuts( upper right ,lower left) to tighten the axle into place and I checked the endplay. The axle was tight so I loosened the nuts and slipped one more thin shim in. It took two trys to get it right. I didn't use a guage to get it perfect but i will check that way after wearing in the new bearing a little, I will post a follow-up thread at that time. Once I had it as good as I wanted I put on the new nylock nuts to finish the job.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I wish I could find parts for a 67 410 wagon, I have looked on many sites and most parts are discontinued. I need new pistons and shoes..There is a local place that can reline shoes here in S.D for $20 a set ..need help or im gonna cut the front end off and weld somthing else on...

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I don't really know anything about the 410's. Search this site and try to find any threads on your car.Thats how I learned everything to do my brake job, in terms of what parts i needed. I read alot of different threads, they helped a little. I PM'd members who seemed to have knowledge, learned a little more. And then I took the plunge and ordered some parts, most of them worked out.

Most of the parts I bought for my truck were from later model datsun trucks, specifically the 520 and the 521. Very few parts stores had the 320 in there computers and when they did they didn't list many parts if any at all.

Read more, ask questions, there are other members with your type of car on this site and they will help you out. PM one of the moderators or administrators and ask them if they know what members might be able to help you out. good luck, don't give up. Everyone has there own opinion about it, but I like to fix a new car stock before I cut it up and change everything. I think if you learn about how the car is suposed to work(hopefully) and then get a better understanding of what you don't like about the stock configuration.Zenon

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  • 1 year later...

very nice writeup! when i redid the brakes on my 620, the adjusters were frozen. i was able ot PB em to get them loos and used copper anti seize on teh adjusters so they wouldn't freeze up again. havent had a problem since.

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I wish I could find parts for a 67 410 wagon, I have looked on many sites and most parts are discontinued. I need new pistons and shoes..There is a local place that can reline shoes here in S.D for $20 a set ..need help or im gonna cut the front end off and weld somthing else on...

 

You might want to check out the 65 310 roadster to see if the pistons are compatible , have you tried EarlyDatsunClub@yahoogroups.com i have some parts catalogs turning up some and can cross reference parts # when they get here.

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  • 1 year later...
  • 3 months later...

zenndog. great stuff. i was starting to build a thumbdrive of all my research, threads, pics, and ideas (all 320) or related and thought this was an important thread. great work. hope your 320 is looking as great as your attention to detail with this thread.

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  • 2 years later...
  • 1 year later...

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