datsunfreak Posted June 25, 2020 Report Share Posted June 25, 2020 4 hours ago, Duncan said: my friend used and liked this graphite coating for his exhaust manifold, I'm sure it's going to be just fine. He's very particular about his stuff. You said a mouthful there. 😁 It is also super easy to touch up if you accidentally scratch it down the road. 👍 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted June 25, 2020 Report Share Posted June 25, 2020 50 minutes ago, Duncan said: Looking good. 👍 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted June 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2020 Also, took my super shiny intake to a local powder coat place. He showed me a set of wheels that were polished and powder coated clear. He says that stuff has really improved and the wheels looked as good, if not better, than my manifold. Quoted me $40 and I couldn't give it to him fast enough.. Now I want to go full-on. Maybe chrome my engine bay, or gold plate my Weber air cleaner housing.... 🙂 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted June 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2020 (edited) BTW, here's the '39 Coupe I looked at yesterday. Had modern front suspension, 350/350, ps, pdb, a/c, but quite a bit of rust along the door bottoms, and the running boards. Since the carpet was glued to the floor, I was only able to peek just a bit from the top. The floors were showings signs of rust, too. The price was very tempting, but what I saw was enough to scare me away. I did bring my floor jack and was planning to look under the car (especially the frame on an 80 year old car) but I passed on it before it got that far. Too bad, really. The lady selling it was very gracious. The owner was in a nursing home after having a pretty big stroke. I really like the '37-'39 Chevys, but the '34-'40 Fords are total gangster, too. Still looking.. The quarantine has me posting a lot these days, it seems 🙂 Edited June 25, 2020 by Duncan 4 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted June 26, 2020 Report Share Posted June 26, 2020 I hadnt heard of that calyx stuff until it was mentioned to you here but I'm sold. Going to have to buy some for sure. And that is a sweet looking car. 1 Quote Link to comment
rosso Posted June 26, 2020 Report Share Posted June 26, 2020 Looking good, much the same but maybe a bit lighter than the CRC Dry Graphite Lube, 10 oz Aerosol Can, Black I used. Amazon - $9 and easy to spray on just like any rattle can. Good for 850 degrees F. Here it is on my brake calipers 3 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted July 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2020 (edited) On 6/25/2020 at 3:25 PM, Duncan said: BTW, here's the '39 Coupe I looked at yesterday. 🙂 The seller texted me this morning and offered it at $2k less than her initial bottom price. Still don't want to do another "rustoration" but if she drops it any lower, I might grab it, paint it quickly and flip it... We'll see. Edited July 3, 2020 by Duncan Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted July 3, 2020 Report Share Posted July 3, 2020 1 hour ago, Duncan said: The seller texted me this morning and offered it at $2k less than her initial bottom price. Still don't want to do another "rustoration" but if she drops it any lower, I might grab it, paint it quickly and flip it... We'll see. Sometimes deals are too good to pass up... maybe that will be the case for you. 1 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted July 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2020 24 minutes ago, Draker said: Sometimes deals are too good to pass up... maybe that will be the case for you. We'll see if she goes any lower. I'm always afraid of rust. If it's in the floors, and doors, chances are good it's pretty bad underneath. At this time, it's kinda like we're playing chicken, and she's daring me to buy it :) Still holding off for now.. 3 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted July 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2020 What you can't see in that photo of the '39 is the damage to the right side. Unfortunately, the owner had a mild stroke and was recovering when he decided to take it for a drive. He hit something, and bashed both the fenders and the running board. The rear fender can't be repaired, (IMHO) and there are no metal replacements. Fiberglass only, and they are $500 each. Running boards are $500 in pairs only. I wouldn't run it with 1 fiberglass fender, so I would need two. Since cars of that era were all basically hand fitted, things like mounting holes and body alignment is all over the place.. Bottom line, she's a no-go for me. Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted July 4, 2020 Report Share Posted July 4, 2020 35 minutes ago, Duncan said: What you can't see in that photo of the '39 is the damage to the right side. Unfortunately, the owner had a mild stroke and was recovering when he decided to take it for a drive. He hit something, and bashed both the fenders and the running board. The rear fender can't be repaired, (IMHO) and there are no metal replacements. Fiberglass only, and they are $500 each. Running boards are $500 in pairs only. I wouldn't run it with 1 fiberglass fender, so I would need two. Since cars of that era were all basically hand fitted, things like mounting holes and body alignment is all over the place.. Bottom line, she's a no-go for me. I know someone that can fix all that. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 6, 2020 Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 (edited) On 7/4/2020 at 1:16 PM, Duncan said: Since cars of that era were all basically hand fitted, things like mounting holes and body alignment is all over the place.. Bottom line, she's a no-go for me. Wonder how it would look as a highboy... 😂 Edited July 6, 2020 by datsunfreak Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted July 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 That one looks good, but I do prefer the fat fenders. Someone did a very nice job on that. Most of the ones I've seen don't look that good. Quote Link to comment
slowlearner Posted July 6, 2020 Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 2 hours ago, Duncan said: That one looks good, but I do prefer the fat fenders. Someone did a very nice job on that. Most of the ones I've seen don't look that good. I was thinking the same. I read US rod mags for years and most of them looked, well... like they'd fallen out the ugly tree and hit every branch on the way down. 🤢 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 7, 2020 Report Share Posted July 7, 2020 21 hours ago, Duncan said: Most of the ones I've seen don't look that good. Yeah, and it took awhile to find that one... 😅 1 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted July 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2020 (edited) And in the meantime, still waiting to get my head back from the machine shop. Hoping for this week. I hate it when the wagon isn't running... And speaking of cylinder heads, what is the consensus on this copper gasket sealer? I've never had a problem in the old days without sealer, but it seems like a lot of people are using this. I could use some input on this if you have any. Thanks! Edited July 7, 2020 by Duncan Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 7, 2020 Report Share Posted July 7, 2020 54 minutes ago, Duncan said: what is the consensus on this copper gasket sealer? I've never had a problem in the old days without sealer, but it seems like a lot of people are using this. I could use some input on this if you have any. Probably won't hurt anything, but a total waste of time IMO... 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted July 8, 2020 Report Share Posted July 8, 2020 6 hours ago, Duncan said: And in the meantime, still waiting to get my head back from the machine shop. Hoping for this week. I hate it when the wagon isn't running... And speaking of cylinder heads, what is the consensus on this copper gasket sealer? I've never had a problem in the old days without sealer, but it seems like a lot of people are using this. I could use some input on this if you have any. Thanks! Done a lot of head gaskets.. never used it. Never had a leaky head gasket either. If both surfaces are flat, nothing to worry about. But I agree with Datsunfreak, can't hurt. I'd try it if I had some on hand. 1 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted July 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2020 14 hours ago, datsunfreak said: Probably won't hurt anything, but a total waste of time IMO... Thank guys. I don't have any sealer, and now have no plans to buy any. I haven't ever had any problem in the past with head gaskets I've installed, but don't want to miss out if something works better.. Quote Link to comment
john510 Posted July 8, 2020 Report Share Posted July 8, 2020 I use that copper spray sealer.For what it costs why not ? I've used it on three head gasket jobs where i didn't have the head shaved.So far so good after years of driving.Peace of mind. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 9, 2020 Report Share Posted July 9, 2020 (edited) 13 hours ago, Duncan said: I haven't ever had any problem in the past with head gaskets I've installed, but don't want to miss out if something works better.. I honestly have used it before, but only on old iron domestic heads that I felt were not quite up to snuff and wanted a little cheap insurance. And that was 30 years ago. I would never use it on a Japanese aluminum head because one, I know they will seal without it. And two, I would really hate to have to clean that messy, sticky shit off if I ever changed the gasket again. 😄 And I honestly think head gasket technology has come really far in the last 20 years, and has really made that stuff obsolete. Edited July 9, 2020 by datsunfreak 1 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted July 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2020 40 minutes ago, datsunfreak said: And I honestly think head gasket technology has come really far in the last 20 years, and has really made that stuff obsolete. Well, I assumed technology was getting better, and my head is getting a complete valve job including a resurface. I've also spent WAY too much time cleaning the block, so I was inclined to shy away from the sealer. I'm sure it wouldn't have hurt anything, but I appreciate everyone's input. Thanks to all. Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted July 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2020 (edited) Alright folks, could really use your help again.. New guides, new tensioner, and new timing chain is on the way.. With a new chain, I am *assuming* the number one (on the inner portion of the gear) goes straight up (12 o'clock) with the brite link. (Obviously with the head at number 1 firing position) AND, the bottom brite link lines up with the dimple on the lower crank gear. (roughly 2-3 o'clock) (When at TDC, of course) Is that correct? When I sent the head in to the machine shop, they asked me to leave the gear on it. I had a yellow grease pencil mark on it to line it back up with the scribe on the chain. I made sure they understood NOT to hot tank the gear. They hot tanked the gear of course, and I got it back with the mark gone.. The old chain has NO brite or dull links on it. I did not remove it from the bottom gear, but decided to get a new chain anyway since I was here.. As always, thanks for the help. The manual is very unclear, especially the Haynes (British) manual 🙂 Edited July 31, 2020 by Duncan 1 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted July 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2020 (edited) Really hard to see in the photo, but I got the notch in the gear to line up with the mark on the cam. That puts the outer number 1 right at about 2:00 o'clock. So I think that's okay. I slapped the timing pointer on the front of the motor and lined up the crank pulley to the mark. (the pulley is keyed to only go on one way) The motor had been turned just slightly, so I put it back, and now the dimple on the bottom gear is on the left side! I need to double check for TDC again. I can't imagine why it is so far off now. It's a bit frustrating, but once I get this figured out, I will certainly remember it for next time... Edited July 31, 2020 by Duncan 1 Quote Link to comment
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