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Duncan's 71 "Oz" Goon


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#41 KELMO

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Posted 15 July 2012 - 12:13 PM

Lookin good Mark. Registered and made reservations for Williams today, see ya in October
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"Well, primer gray IS a color..." (quote: Kelmo's wife)

#42 Duncan

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Posted 09 August 2012 - 07:24 PM

It's been a while since I have updated this thread. Not a whole lot of progress, but I have been working on the goon.

Here is the right side dogleg all fitted and clamped to bee-Jeezus ready to be tacked into place. This piece has a LOT of curves and I like a super-tight flush as possible fit, so that's why so many clamps..

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Here she is all tacked in with the mig welder. The welds have been rough ground, and I will fill the spliced seams in with the tig welder. I am also going to lead fill the seam on the sill. When I get to that point, I will do a little "how-to" on old school lead filling. (That is coming up in the very near future.)

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#43 Duncan

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Posted 16 September 2012 - 02:45 PM

My friend was on vacation in Washington for the last three weeks, so nothing got done on the goon. I did do some old school lead work on one of my fenders which came out fine. I couldn't get to the back side of this particular area of the fender, and it wasn't low enough to spot weld studs on it, so I did some lead work.

This shot is the lead after being applied and some early filing. The lead fill is along the right side and starts about two inches down from the primer. This was the spot that I welded in a patch panel as shown above in this thread. I had originally used bondo to smooth it, but I decided to grind it out and go old school.

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Here's the finished work. This is a lot more work and definitely slower than bondo, but the lead work will last longer than you or I.

It's hard to photograph, but you get the idea what's going on here.


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It's my first time using lead fill in many, many, years!

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#44 Ratwagon1600

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Posted 16 September 2012 - 02:52 PM

My friend was on vacation in Washington for the last three weeks, so nothing got done on the goon. I did do some old school lead work on one of my fenders which came out fine. I couldn't get to the back side of this particular area of the fender, and it wasn't low enough to spot weld studs on it, so I did some lead work.

This shot is the lead after being applied and some early filing. The lead fill is along the right side and starts about two inches down from the primer. This was the spot that I welded in a patch panel as shown above in this thread. I had originally used bondo to smooth it, but I decided to grind it out and go old school.

Posted Image

Here's the finished work. This is a lot more work and definitely slower than bondo, but the lead work will last longer than you or I.

It's hard to photograph, but you get the idea what's going on here.


Posted Image

It's my first time using lead fill in many, many, years!


Looks good ! Lead wiping is another thing on my "bucket list" of skills I want to teach myself.

I've certainly got plenty of spare panlels to practice on.


Hahahaha RW bring called an ass kisser is awesome. Don't know him personally but he always seemed belligerent, not brown nosey.

You have standards?

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#45 the510keeper

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Posted 16 September 2012 - 02:53 PM

WOW lead, your crazy

But very cool, some blasting companies use liquid zinc, to fill rot and rust. Acts like a lead filler.

#46 Duncan

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Posted 16 September 2012 - 03:05 PM

WOW lead, your crazy

But very cool, some blasting companies use liquid zinc, to fill rot and rust. Acts like a lead filler.


hmmmm. I've never seen that, but it sounds like a good idea . Like yourself, I usually cut out and replace rusted metal. (I'm low rent, though) :)

This was the epoxy-primered fender I got from you that had about a 1 inch square bad spot. Super-easy to fix, and I decided a while ago to go use lead wherever possible on this. A little overboard, yes. Completely overboard? No! :)

It does take longer and is more work, but I find it satisfying when the piece comes out nice and needs NO filler.

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#47 Duncan

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Posted 22 September 2012 - 06:08 PM

Did some more lead work today. The dogleg we replaced is now really done and leaded in. I need to clean it up real well and get it in primer, but I have a few minor spots to work on.



Posted Image

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#48 Laecaon

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Posted 22 September 2012 - 06:10 PM

Nice work! This goon will be very clean!

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#49 Duncan

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Posted 22 September 2012 - 06:38 PM

Nice work! This goon will be very clean!


Thanks man. I appreciate the kind words. It motivates my old ass while working under a tarp in 90 degree heat :)

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#50 the510keeper

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Posted 22 September 2012 - 08:15 PM

We should open a Datsun auto body shop together, not the fly by night stuff some shops do. Most Datsun guys don't want to pay 10k for paint and auto body.

At the first body shop I worked, we painted a 510 wagon, the owner reminded me everyday it's a 510, hurry up.

That's how I meet the shop owner I sold him the parts for the wagon

#51 Duncan

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Posted 23 September 2012 - 06:35 AM

We should open a Datsun auto body shop together, not the fly by night stuff some shops do. Most Datsun guys don't want to pay 10k for paint and auto body.

At the first body shop I worked, we painted a 510 wagon, the owner reminded me everyday it's a 510, hurry up.

That's how I meet the shop owner I sold him the parts for the wagon


We could do that, but we wouldn't have any Datsun work :)

There's a place in Long Beach called Pan's Coach Works (I don't know if it's still there) and he wouldn't quote a price until he completely stripped the car down to bare metal. I used to drive by there on my way to work and he always had old Caddies, Mercedes, and exotic cars in various states of being painted. I met a guy at a Cadillac show that had a 30's V-12 Caddie painted there, and it was immaculate. That shop does the nicest work I've ever seen. I can only imagine what that guy paid to have his Caddie done there...

BTW, just the paint, hardener and reducer for my car is going to run about $1200 alone.

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#52 Duncan

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Posted 24 September 2012 - 04:59 PM

I thought this photo didn't come out. My camera stashed it in another folder on my memory card..

The forward section of the dogleg. Normally, this seam is exposed, but we tack welded it in the seam so I decided to fill it.

It's a small seam, so I actually used a soldering iron, some flux, and some 60/40 1/8" acid core solder. It's nearly the same composition as the lead bars, only smaller. Worked like a champ and has the same properties as the larger stuff.

Posted Image

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#53 datrod

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Posted 14 October 2012 - 05:03 PM

Come on Fucker!! We need some updates. I know you were down there this weekend..

I came here today to chew some bubblegum and kick some ass. Right now I'm all out of bubblegum. 

 

My biggest fear is that when I die, My wife will sell my cars for what she thinks I have in them.

 

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#54 Duncan

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Posted 16 October 2012 - 06:38 PM

Come on Fucker!! We need some updates. I know you were down there this weekend..


I'll be there this Fri and Sat. I'll take my camera and send up some pics on Sunday. Been working on the replacement dogleg area and still don't have it done. (I'm close, though) I should have that area all done in shiny lead, and I'll take some photos prior to putting primer on it. Fucker!

San Diego is 100 miles each way from me, so I only have so much time per week to make it down there. I was hoping to have the quarters done sooner, but you know how that goes...

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#55 Duncan

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Posted 20 October 2012 - 09:13 PM

Movin' on..

The dogleg replacement section is (finally) DONE! Shit, with the rust repairs to the replacement piece and fitting this bad boy, it was a butt load of work, but it's finally in and looking nice. Here it is in the second coat of high build primer and (mostly) blocked out. No bondo used at all.

Posted Image


With the front section done, I moved onto the other repairs done to the quarter. There was a small repair at the back of the wheel arch, and we also fabbed a patch on the lower rear section. Welds were ground down and these two areas were leaded in.

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The two spots after filing are now ready for high build primer.

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The lower section of this quarter got a coat of primer and I was done for the day. I will block the front and rear sections next week and rinse and repeat.

My updates will be less frequent from now on and only when I get larger sections done. I think that if I show every step and every repair, this thread will get a bit tiresome. Anyway, I will update as things get done.

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#56 KELMO

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Posted 21 October 2012 - 03:01 AM

Damn I can't wait to see this car.
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#57 Duncan

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Posted 03 November 2012 - 07:30 PM

Thanks Kelly.

I'll have more photos next weekend.

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#58 Duncan

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Posted 10 November 2012 - 07:36 PM

Quarter panel done and blocked out:

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Replaced dogleg section done:

Posted Image

I had bondo on the forward rocker panel repairs I did (pics on page 1) but since I'm going all metal finish, I ground it out and currently filling them with lead.

I'm not 100% sure if I can metal finish the entire car, but I'm gonna give it my best shot!

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#59 hobbes_the_cat

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Posted 10 November 2012 - 10:05 PM

I like seeing the lead work, It's a lost art. I have played with lead, but it looks like you really know what you're doing. Nice work. :thumbup:

#60 Duncan

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Posted 11 November 2012 - 06:59 AM

Thanks Hobbes. There seems to be a lot of VooDoo mystique about it, but once you get a feel for it, it's like anything else. With a little practice, anyone can do it.

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