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72 510 L20B/dogleg: Leeann (OIC Heavy)


darc510

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When i purchased the clutch kit it came with everything...TO bearing too, so one less thing to hunt down.

 

Is the T/O bearing with your new clutch just the bearing, or does it include the sleeve the bearing is mounted on? I can't quite tell from the pic. If you try using the sleeve from the old clutch, there is a good chance it is the wrong length and the clutch won't work. If you stick it all back together with the wrong length sleeve, you aren't gonna be happy! If the new T/O comes with a sleeve, it should match the clutch, and you can ignore my dire warning! lol.

 

Len

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Is the T/O bearing with your new clutch just the bearing, or does it include the sleeve the bearing is mounted on? I can't quite tell from the pic. If you try using the sleeve from the old clutch, there is a good chance it is the wrong length and the clutch won't work. If you stick it all back together with the wrong length sleeve, you aren't gonna be happy! If the new T/O comes with a sleeve, it should match the clutch, and you can ignore my dire warning! lol.

 

Len

Sh!t...lemme run down to the garage and check....

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ALL clutch kits I have purchased over the years never have the T/O sleeve. They assume you still have it and put the new bearing on and its correct for the kit you bought.

 

this is a common proplem sometimes. Clutch diaphrame heights are different.

even when the same 200 mm off a 200sx is no the same height as a 200mm pressure plate of a 510/521

But the Raosdtser and 510/521 are the smae height thus a common swap and not t/o length issues

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So, I finally removed the old TO bearing from the sleeve, using a combination of rental tools at advance auto parts...But my new TO Bearing will fit just fine on the old Sleeve. I'll clean it up first, obviously, before sliding the new bearing on.

Also, ordered the rear seal gasket for the cover plate per Datzenmike's suggestion. should be here right after this storm lets up for delivery services to resume.

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Went to a swap meet, first one in this state that I have been to. Anyways, i scored these for $1!! :w00t:

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very clean, no pitting, no scratches! not plastic crap either. Now I just need to fine a front bumper to mount them on.

going to need to broaden my area for other swap meets, it was mostly classic/american muscle stuff at this one.

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I'm sure you know this already, join the engine and trans outside of the car and check the play of the clutch fork. That will tell you If you have the correct bearing collar. I seem to recall when I installed my l20b I used the 225mm Centerforce clutch for 200sx, and the dog leg clutch bearing collar worked fine on it. When I changed to a zx 5-speed the 510 collar was to short and the zx one was not quite right. I used a bearing collar from a 610, which worked with the 200sx Centerforce clutch. Hope this helps.

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  • 1 month later...

Spent a little time on working on 510 yesterday… hope to have this lady running before I head back to school (Jan 14th).

Looking within the engine bay, realizing how heinous it looks decided to brush it up a bit. There is no telling how long it took to acquire this much road grime/oil/grease crap on the cross member but that stuff had to go.

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Much better :) and ready for a little paint!

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I was patient…and victory! Great score for $50!!! Just needs a little shining and should be good until a proper re-chrome.

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Pulled the doors off to get better access to making new mounts for seats. Also, should help with installing new wiring…. Already have all three pieces, considering that I have decided on the future motor being a KA24DE, might as well use a clean wire harness now. Besides the one in the car has been jerry-rigged and hacked. Hope to have a cleaner setup with a terminal board that will be under the dash to run power different places.

 

Anyways, Oics!

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Removed fenders too

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Driver’s side is pretty clean.

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Passengers not so much…

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Faq!

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Test fit new bumper… just used some wooden dowel pieces to hold it up.

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you have no idea how excited I am to have this!!! Also, figured I’d take the extra minute and see how the driving lights would sit…just did one.

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I think they will sit a bit close to the turn signals, but planning on installing LED lights for those. Plus this avoids drilling into the bumper as I am using existing holes. The lights aren’t that big either. Furthermore, I am installing the BMW headlights…so I’ll be able to see everything! 

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Got a late start on the day…so not as much progress as I’d hoped for.

 

we'll start off with the dirty bell housing shot...needed to remove cover in order to replace forward seal.

 

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replacing forward trans seal.

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the seal didn't 'look' bad, but in comparison to the new one i put in, could definitely tell it was real old.

 

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at the same time replacing old clutch fork, TO Bearing, and rubber boot to keep road crap from getting in the bell housing.

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cleaning that bell-housing was a pain in the arse, but well worth it!!! Not a perfect cleaning but compared to what it was before, night and day.

 

also replaced clutch slave cylinder...old slave

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new slave

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installed

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was hoping to be in a position to drop the motor back in tonight...but due to the late start i'll have to hold off until tomorrow or tuesday when i have help to assist. First time doing all this so i want to make sure that screw something up trying to do it solo. 

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Progress looks good, Ross.

 

I am not a fan of the hood scoop but to each his own. 

 

Nice clean stock hoods are hard to come by so make sure you really want it before you go and cut up your hood.

 

Thanks David. 

 

Hopefully I can get a spare hand or two in the next day or so to drop the motor in so I can return your lift. Feels like I have had it for too long...much appreciated :)

 

I'm putting the hood scoop on hold until, like you said, that I'm really really sure that i want it there. this hood is actually pretty beat up, especially on the inside. 

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Well, since last nights game (ND vs Bama) was determined in the first half, decided to go down stairs and make progress:

 

Started off with modifying Futo Fabs adjustable alternator bracket...IF you have tried to install this with a OE Alt it will for just fine. Yet with the Saturn alt upgrade it is too long. So I shaved a 1/2 inch off each side and did the same to the studs. here it is mounted.

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Test fit newER valance with spook attached

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Engine Bay just looks so empty :(

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Got tired of waiting and staring at a dangling motor...so i made the trek myself, a lot easier than what my mind made it out to be. Just A LOT of 'adjust, lower, check, move the lift, tilt, rotate, double check'ing

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And yes that is an extension cord...was all i had within reach to pull back on the motor to ease it into place on the input shaft.

 

She is in!

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Looks like i'll be one of the many that received these 1.5" motor mounts from rock auto. sucks that i'm at a point where i have to use them.

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My carb was already sitting high before this, no there is practically no doubt that it will hit the inside of the hood.... hood scoop may come sooner than anticipated. 

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  • 1 month later...

Small update, well not really, more of an inquiry. 

 

So, in the process of me fitting the radiator back in i realized that my new 9" pull fan, that my dad passed on to me, will not fit in front of the water pump pulley. I was also thinking of adding another 9-12" fan to keep that baby cool for those humid summers we have here.

 

As you can see there was really no room there in the first place.

 

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originally, there was a push fan that the PO installed from an unknown honda...extremely loud and i doubt it really did much.

 

So i'm exploring my options...IF this L20B ever dies, i know that i'm gonna go the KA24DE route. I have done extensive reading on radiator swaps from DQ and other peeps questions...I plan on either finding a Fiero or VW VR6 radiator. Anyone want to sway me one way or the other?

 

guess this is more of a clearance issue, that i need to work out.

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