wtb: l20b matchbox distributor (in portland?)

[t bear]

the title says it: i'm looking for a matchbox distributor for my 78 pickup camper project. i managed to roach the stock setup somehow (i'm a wizard at breaking shit) and while everything checks out i still can't get spark. i'd like a matchbox setup for simplicity anyway. so, let me know if you have one, and if you are in the portland area, even better. thanks!

[PtheDude]

vancouver cuss-n-pull has a KC with the remote unit. I tired pulling it but ran out of light

[crackerjack69]

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/2745246863.html This could be a matchbox. Texted him asking for a pic, but no response so far.

[t bear]

rad, thanks for the heads up! been out of town for five days and off the craigslist hunt, so that was way helpful. i'll check that one out.

[datzenmike]

http://portland.crai...2745246863.html This could be a matchbox. Texted him asking for a pic, but no response so far.

 

He only says L20B dizzy and coil. '79 and up were matchbox.

[crackerjack69]

He got back to me, it's points. How bout this?

http://www.ebay.com/...=item2566d5853c

Also there's an '81 and an '83 that just arrived at the picknpull south. They should be likely donors.

[datzenmike]

He got back to me, it's points. How bout this?

http://www.ebay.com/...=item2566d5853c

Also there's an '81 and an '83 that just arrived at the picknpull south. They should be likely donors.

 

The last year an L20B matchbox was used was the '80 720. Non-California S110s had a 4 plug matchbox on the Z20E motor for the '80 model year. The Califrnia Z20E head and all Z20E and Z22E motors from '81 on were an 8 plug design. The early 4 plug Z20E matchbox will fit and work on the earlier L 4 cylinder motors.

[Icoblue]

I have an extra matchbox that I was going to keep as a spare. It's in the middle of being torn down and cleaned up, and I'm in the middle of a move, so I'm not quite sure where it is right now. I should find it sometime next week, if nobody has found you one by then.

 

I also have one of the remote units (Datsun version of HEI, from a '78 620, untested) and the dizzy for it, and I know where those are right now, if you're interested in those.

[crackerjack69]

t bear, if you get the remote module dizzy, you can do the GM 4 pin module. It's real easy, I just completed mine. Works grrrreat.

[t bear]

t bear, if you get the remote module dizzy, you can do the GM 4 pin module. It's real easy, I just completed mine. Works grrrreat.

 

 

thanks, i've tried to hook up an HEI setup and i can't get it to spark, so i'm thinking the system with the fewest wires will narrow down the potential problems. it seems like such a basic system, but either i just don't have my head wrapped around it completely or i'm missing something super obvious. everything i can think to test checks out: power to the coil when cranking, an AC voltage signal from the pick up coil to the HEI unit (which is grounded) when cranking, and continuity from the negative side of the coil to the hei unit. i double checked everything and it's hooked up per the diagram, but i'll be damned if i just can't get the thing to make fire. coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, ignition switch, pick up coil, and hei unit are all new. seriously, i got frustrated and just started throwing parts at the thing- they are cheap enough. if anyone has anything else i could test i'd be stoked to get some suggestions... i'm also into replacing the distributor if one turns up. thanks!

[Icoblue]

Are you using a Datsun remote module dizzy? As I understand it, HEI setups only work with the remote dizzy, not the points or matchbox dizzys.

 

Also, have you tested spark, or are you going on the fact that it won't fire? Could be a fuel or compression problem. I would test coil voltage and spark before I discounted the setup. Also, could it be you received a defective HEI unit?

[datzenmike]

Get a 12 volt test light and check that you have 12 volts on the + side of the coil with the key ON. Pull the small Black/Yellow wire off the starter and check that you have 12 volts on the + side of the coil in the START position. (put wire back on when done) If you don't have power in both of these key positions, find out why and correct it.

 

 

To make this work you need an EI coil NOT a points coil. (true you can use a points coil if you keep the ballast resistor but this makes it more complex and you do not get the extra voltage output, so why?)

 

 

 

 

You need a 'remote igniter' type dizzy used on all '78 4 cylinder Datsuns and many '76 and '77 California models. Under the cap they look like this...

If you have a points dizzy this won't work. If yours isn't working try another HEI unit. There's no way you can fuck this up.

 

 

Be absolutely sure that the HEI module is GROUNDED. Very important

 

If you are wanting an EI type dizzy then you must have swapped in another dizzy. It's very common to find that the newer type often have the rotor pointing to a different position when installed into the same spot as the old points dizzy. Set the motor to TDC on the compression stroke and lift the dizzy cap and see if the rotor is under or near the #1 plug above it.

 

 

Last.... to check for spark, stick an old plug into the end of one of the plug wires and lay on a grounded surface. Just because there is no spark does not mean the system is not working.... the rotor could be between terminals on the cap.

[t bear]

i really appreciate you guys taking the time to help me sort this out. icoblue- yep, it's a factory remote module distributor. i burned something up trying to install an old induction style tach, and now i'm trying to figure out why i can't get it to spark. i have a in line spark tester (the type that illuminates) that i've been using, and i double checked that it worked on my van. i've tried two new hei units, so that probably isn't it.

 

datzenmike- sounds like you know this system inside out. as i mentioned, i get 12v to the + side of the coil with both ignition on and while cranking. i'm definitely using the appropriate parts- it's a stock remote module dizzy form 1978. to run the HEI i pulled the wires from the plug into the stock ignition control unit and put them in the correct spades on the hei (per the diagram), then grounded the backing plate (double checking continuity to ground).

 

one thing you mentioned could be an issue- i replaced the coil with a new one from carquest (i broke the terminal off the factory one overtightening it like an asshole). i'm guessing they know that a 78 620 is elec ignition, but they could have somehow given me a points coil. i'll double check the part number... but the guys at my local parts shop are pretty good.

 

this puzzle sucks. i miss being able to drive my pickup.

[crackerjack69]

The coil will still fire even if it's not an EI coil. You need to un-plug the module from that stock harness. Scrape off some paint on your wheel well next to the coil. screw the module down right there on the clean spot you made (keeps the new wires short). Make a new wire from coil - to module pin C. Make a new wire from coil + to module pin B. Connect the 2 wires from distributor ( W to red, G to green). I can come over if you need help?

[t bear]

thanks for the offer, if i can't sort it out (or find my ass with both hands) i'll hit you up. i did a little more troubleshooting today and decided i should move this process to the appropriate thread:

My link

[t bear]

for the record, my rockauto matchbox (i think it was $80) has been working rad. if you can't come up on a good used one, it's a solid option.