Siqx20 Posted November 26, 2011 Report Share Posted November 26, 2011 So I have been tossing around the idea of ditching my torsion bars on the 620day and just triangulating the lower control arms. I have seen it done but haven't found alot of info as far as how to set up the geometry. And what to keep in mind so your complete geometry isn't completely fucked. Link to a pic of what im talking about http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee50/my2nds102bag/0315011426.jpg Here is a link to a "kit" http://www.unusualfabrication.com/index_files/TriangulatedLowerControlArmKit.html I can Prolly make the whole kit for cheaper then what its going for but u get the idea. Things im curious about: -does t matter where u mount this new arm? -would I get binding if mounted directly to the frame? -should I just mount it in line with where the stock arm pivots? -if so how would I mount it as there is nothing there to mount ti? Thanks for any input. Quote Link to comment
510kevin Posted November 26, 2011 Report Share Posted November 26, 2011 before messing with any suspension geometry, definately do alot of research. your handling can be seriously affected if you dont get it right!!!! that being said, most a arm cars have the a arms mounted above and below the frame. im no expert, but i believe it has alot to do with steering geometry, alignment adjustability, durability, weight handling and distribution, ride quality and overall safety. i personally say, throw the torsion bars away and bag/coilovers in the front. good luck to ya!! Quote Link to comment
Siqx20 Posted November 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2011 I am bagging the truck. Torsion rods are gone. Im talking about the front tension rods. The ones that keep the lower control arm from having any front to back movement. They go from the lower control arm to a bushing in the front if the frame. Quote Link to comment
510kevin Posted November 26, 2011 Report Share Posted November 26, 2011 I am bagging the truck. Torsion rods are gone. Im talking about the front tension rods. The ones that keep the lower control arm from having any front to back movement. They go from the lower control arm to a bushing in the front if the frame. i see........ nevermind what i said then! i believe new tension rods could be mounted on the frame as long as you keep your caster adjustability and make sure they dont bind during suspension travel i have a set of 12" bars with heim joints on the end hanging in my shop. if you made brackets on the frame, they might work to triangulate the control arms. you could borrow them if you want to do a mockup. i would sell them if they worked for you..... Quote Link to comment
hacked521 Posted November 27, 2011 Report Share Posted November 27, 2011 you should mount it inline with the stock arm or else you will get binding, make sure the triangulation piece you make is adjustable so you can adjust the caster as 510kevin said. you have to mount them inline, any variation in height or distance in or back will result with a bind. youre going to have to make a structure to mount the triangulation to. im going to end up triangulating my lowers eventually but with a clevis and heim. like these arms:a arms i understand that these are uppers, im just saying use the clevis, swedge tube, and heim part of the design. Quote Link to comment
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