Datsun 510 - Dellorto Side Draft Linkage - Help Needed

[datsun65]

Long story made short.... 3 years ago I purchased a very nice 510 from the original owner here in Houston, TX.

 

I hired a well known Datsun expert (located 4 hours from my home) to make the car road ready. Ended up purchasing a very clean L18 to put into the engine bay in replacement of the original L16. After 2.5 years of delays, I was told the car was finally finished and was running great! I hired a shipping company to bring the car home.

 

When the car arrived, it was in pieces...literally. The car was taken apart (drivetrain, cooling, fuel, hydrolics, electrical, etc.) and left in parts and pieces (and many missing parts). I'm now stuck trying to put together a jigsaw puzzle of a mess.

 

The L18 engine has a nice set of Dellorto carbs, but up not sure about how to hook them up. The car orignally had the Hitachi carb from the L16, but some of the original linkage pieces appear to now be missing. When converting to dual side draft carbs, what is the best way to set-up the linkage? I really need some pictures from the firewall to the carbs on how to best install.

 

Can anyone take some pictures of their set-up and how there carbs have been set-up. Thanks for the help.

 

Here is a shot of the carbs:

 

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

I would persoanlly get the car running with a stock set weber 32/36 with stock intake up just to make sure everything else is OK. weither to just bolt it on and use your hand to get it running.

wires ect.

 

You posting that wire harness like that scares us and puts more question out there than just saying how to put the carbs on and adjust. Carbs linkage bar set up or cable or a combo of both.

 

 

Sounds like a Datsun guy thats screwed YOU.

I would have went over there first to hear it run. 80% of Datsun guys I dont trust when it comes to MONEY issues.

 

 

Try "Pierce Manifolds"

Top End Performance

WeberCarbsDirect

 

Im sure all of them will say what you want to hear but key is you have to know also. I believe all of these guys will try to see you soemthing

 

 

NICE CAR!!!!!!!!

 

Who is this guy in Texas?

Garret racing?

 

I see the 3rd gear swith relay there. That really wont be needed if you go with a IE distribtor or a single point distributor.

 

all you need to get it run is the

BLK/WHT key ON

BLK/BLU key START

BLK/GRN used for ballast resisitor completion if using a stock POINT COIL.

or used with a Pertronix point conversion as they want the stock coil ballast or = resistance value

I see you have a Blaster 2 coil. That will only be used if you have a matchbox distributor or the gen 1 EI remote distributor.

[dennis]

Send that 510 up here I will get it going for you for just the cost of parts. You can pay me the parts cost when you pick it up. That linkage could be a nightmare, I need to see what was done to the firewall first. Whatever has to be done I am sure it will have to be custom.

 

Most of the 510's that are converted to dual side drafts use a cable linkage. Those are used on the Canon type manifolds and I know the Lynx has a rod that is used with the stock linkage.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Use a Lokar cable as other have done on here. get the short one. Usually this cables will have a threaded end and a nut on other side to pass thru the fire wall.

What I do is weld a adpter of some sort to the 510 pedal or one can use a B210 pedal and cable set up. I dont like the 210 pedal myself as the pedal LIFT is too high and hurts my foot too much as one really has to cock your ankle when your off the throttle.

 

Dennis has done alot of work on his car and sure he could handle this in no time. or better yet send him the carb as a whole set with manifold. cable and foot pedal set.

 

Be honest you have the LAME 2 pc manifold so it will be harder to set up.

1 pc set you can take the whole thing off once adjusted and put back on.NO ADJUSTMENTSI would try to find the short Mikuni manifold.

 

The set you(Dellorto) have I also have also but its just for looks on the motor I have in my garage

[Stitebunny]

Here is my setup:

 

[datsun65]

Thanks to all for the great information, and especially the pictures. They were extremely helpful.

 

After reviewing the pictures, it is clear that I'm missing ALL of the stock accelerator linkage components. Once I have these in place, I will be in much better shape to fab up the connection to the carbs.

 

Hainz: You are right the wiring is a disaster. Not only was the engine bay left in shambles, but also the harness was also disconnected from the dash. I don't know why this is, but it is making this 3 year old saga a real downer.

 

Dennis: My car is at a shop in North Houston. Very nice guys, but no Datsun 510 knowledge. If you are up to helping, I'd pay you (Hotel, Gas, Labor) to come down to Houston to help put the car back together. It is in a shop with tools, air compressor and a several lifts. The shop is super cool with allowing folks to come down and work on the car.

 

I'm just dying to drive this car around the block after 3 years.

[datzenmike]

 

That manifold is just sitting on the motor. Bolts are just enough to hold it on. (only 2 on the top) Who was this guy? Shame on you for letting him have it so long without results or progress reports. You're allowd to openly carry firearms in Texas aren't you? Drop into his shop and get your money back.

 

.

[datsun65]

It was John Roper (aka Datsunfreak on this forum).

 

He provided many status reports along the way. Almost all of them were complete falsehoods. Anyhow, I've filed all the required paperwork with authorities.

 

I've purchased and since installed new studs for the intake and exhaust manifold.

[banzai510(hainz)]

It was John Roper (aka Datsunfreak on this forum).

 

Cant believe he would do that . Been very knowledgable on this site. This a L motor would be ez to install. to get running. U seen his cars.

 

OK the other guys working on your car. Be careful as many a US car guy and notunderstand the Jap switchable ground system when it come to head lights so make sure no wires are going to GET CUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!rewired ect....

 

 

If you can get 12volts to the blk/wht wire

12volt in START(blk/blu wireshorted to the blk/grn wire) position you can get this car running.

The rest you can figure out later.

[datsun65]

<<If you can get 12volts to the blk/wht wire

12volt in START(blk/blu wireshorted to the blk/grn wire) position you can get this car running.>>

 

Was at the shop last night, and this is what were trying to accomplish. Having a hard time figuring out if I'm I have all the pieces of the engine bay harness.

 

Off the fuse block there is a black/white wire that appear to be missing its connector. Need to figure out /replace this section of the harness. Below is a picture of someone else' 510 showing the missing wire connector.

 

[datsun65]

Had some time to work on the 510 at the shop. Wired up the EI dizzy and taped off the 20+ loose wires. Connected the battery and had dash lights, head lights and oil pressure dummy light.

 

Cranked the key to start, but it didn't engage the starter. Traces it back to a bad ignition switch. On my 70 dime, can you replace the actual switch behind the key? What is the best way to remove the switch?

 

Anyhow, found a simple on/off switch on the dash that was being used to engage the starter. Wired it up with an inline fuse to bypass the bad ignition switch. Turn the key and flipped switch and success! The starter cranked.

 

Next step is to get a new ignition switch, accerator linkage parts and reinstall the fuel tank.

[Jesse C.]

Had some time to work on the 510 at the shop. Wired up the EI dizzy and taped off the 20+ loose wires. Connected the battery and had dash lights, head lights and oil pressure dummy light.

 

Cranked the key to start, but it didn't engage the starter. Traces it back to a bad ignition switch. On my 70 dime, can you replace the actual switch behind the key? What is the best way to remove the switch?

 

Anyhow, found a simple on/off switch on the dash that was being used to engage the starter. Wired it up with an inline fuse to bypass the bad ignition switch. Turn the key and flipped switch and success! The starter cranked.

 

Next step is to get a new ignition switch, accerator linkage parts and reinstall the fuel tank.

 

Yes, you can replace the switch behind the key tumbler. I do believe they are still available from Nissan. It is only held with two screws and that is it.

[datsun65]

Fantastic. I hate having the extra switch in place. Thank you for the info on the key switch.

[datsun65]

Installed the new ignition switch today, and it worked like charm. Tested the on and start positions and everything worked well.

 

However, Im having problems with the matchbox electronic ingnition not giving any spark. It is a newly rebuilt EI unit with a new MSD blaster coil. Ballast Resistor has been deleted.

 

I have connected:

 

Black/White wire to +Coil

Black/Blue wire to +Coil

 

Then from the +Coil to the B Tab on the Distributor

Then from the -Coil to the C Tab on the Distributor

Then grounded the Distrubutor out using the remaining tab.

 

Checked for spark from the #1 plug wiring, and nothing.

 

Any suggestion on what to try next?

 

Thanks (BTW: Have dash lights, headlights (kind of), tail lights and directional lights now)

 

Thanks, Dan

[dennis]

Sorry I didnt read your post sooner. I lost this topic because I generally do not navigate to this part of the forum. I kept looking in the 510 section. The offer was nice but I couldnt travel away from my home at that time or just about anytime for that matter. Hopefully you will get it on the road soon.

[dennis]

Installed the new ignition switch today, and it worked like charm. Tested the on and start positions and everything worked well.

 

However, Im having problems with the matchbox electronic ingnition not giving any spark. It is a newly rebuilt EI unit with a new MSD blaster coil. Ballast Resistor has been deleted.

 

I have connected:

 

Black/White wire to +Coil

Black/Blue wire to +Coil

 

Then from the +Coil to the B Tab on the Distributor

Then from the -Coil to the C Tab on the Distributor

Then grounded the Distrubutor out using the remaining tab.

 

Checked for spark from the #1 plug wiring, and nothing.

 

Any suggestion on what to try next?

 

Thanks (BTW: Have dash lights, headlights (kind of), tail lights and directional lights now)

 

Thanks, Dan

 

Did you ever figure this out? If not you can try swapping out the matchbox for a known working unit. I have a spare matchbox you can have, just pay the shipping on it.

[jputz]

Did you ever get your carb linkage figured out?

 

Also have you found any info on tuning these carbs I am having trouble coming up with anything.