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what perfomance parts will keep it smog legal hotter coil? hei? webber? i live in california aand i own a 76 (smog year is 75) i want more performance but i have to make it pass smog to any help on the subjest would be great thanks

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One of the best things you can do is to make sure the engine is in good shape mechanically. Good rings, a good valve job. Keep it tuned up. I know, not sexy, will not impress your friends at the drive-in.

A bonus, performance done this way inproves your gas mileage.

A weber carb may not be a smog legal swap in California.

If your spark plugs and wires are in good shape, It becomes easy for the ignition system to fire them, and it makes the need for high voltage coils unnecessary.

Open up the exhaust system. But you do not need headers. Open it up after the stock exhaust manifold. A 2" pipe, and muffler. Opinion here, keep it quiet, no need to sound like a Honda with a fart cannon.

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If the 610 requires a catalytic converter get one for the 2" exhaust too. A two inch is more than big enough, remember a doubling of pipe diameter means that it will flow four (4) time as much through it. So even a half inch increase is a lot.

 

Headers are the biggest waste of money and time. The stock system has lots of flow below 6,000 RPMs. The stock Hitachi can't be beat but only if in good shape or new. But that's like any carb. Everyone runs them down when they are worn out, then puts a new something else on and says the Hitachi was a POS. Webers are less complicated and have a slight edge performance wise. If getting one check that it legal or keep the Hitachi and swap back on for emissions test.

 

Keep or find ALL the emissions pieces for your car, the test may include a visual of your smog equipment.

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a weber DGV with the aircleaner carb adapter(I dont know if they still make it)

so you can run the stock aircleaner and nobody will know

 

 

I had mikunis and a cam in my moors and they passed emissions.

I dont knwo if they have the LOOK TEST in your state but at the time older vehecles you didnt need to raise the hood(at least when I had mine cked)

 

 

Now I do have to go thru emissions

DGVcarbadapter_thumb.jpg

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we have the look test here and the webber isnt smog legal

 

the motor is in great shape all around its the original motor and it only has 135000 (milage has ben documented since it rolled off the show room floor)it has 140psi worth of compresion in all 4 cylinders it just had tune up (new coil, cap, rotor, plugs wires) the car passes smog when everything is set to factory spec (dwell:55 timing 12 deg carb tune to put out 2% co2) i just want it to have a little more pep and the car is a federal car no cat is nessisary :D:D:Dand i want to go with a 2 1/2 exhaust all the way back the stock exhaust in it is on its last leg (i put a cheap universal cat in it to help pass smog wasent nessisary a waist of $100 and now my exhaust leaks like a pig but it sounds kinda cool lol) lol no fart cannon i want to run a flowmaster for an older muscle car sound

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and i want to go with a 2 1/2 exhaust all the way back the stock exhaust in it is on its last leg (i put a cheap universal cat in it to help pass smog wasent nessisary a waist of $100 and now my exhaust leaks like a pig but it sounds kinda cool lol) lol no fart cannon i want to run a flowmaster for an older muscle car sound

 

2.5 is too big.What ever size the pipe is coming off the manifold will work better.As for tail pipe size,bigger is not better-it's just noisier.You will not get a"muscle car sound" out of a I-4 no matter what muffler you put on it.:blink:

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ya, weber is not smog legal. it seems that as soon as you open the hood and the smog techs see a shiny piece of aluminum they automatically assume its smog illegal.

 

i run no muffer, only a monza dual resonated tip with two inch pipe from exhaust manifold to tip. very crispy and noisey, i love it.

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My cherry bomb sounded bomb :D

 

I had it in the stock muffler location with a nice tailpipe to the rear. Ran it with the louvers open at the front. I heard running them open to the rear makes them louder.

 

L4 in no way = V8 no matter what muffler your running... evah ;)

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I've been told (I don't live in Cali, so don't know for sure) that the Weber 32/36 with electric choke and idle cutoff is legal IF you keep the stock Datsun air cleaner AND it passed the tailpipe test. The air cleaner has to be stock to pass the visual, since it incorporates most of the vacuum lines. Problem is finding an air cleaner adapter, they used to make them, and I have one for a B210 but it doesn't fit a L-series filter assembly. Also the adapter tends to make the air cleaner too tall to close the hood.

 

But since the Weber doesn't have a BCDD and nowhere for the BCDD solenoid wire and vacuum line, I do know that disconnected hoses are an instant fail in Cali. It's an awful expensive experiment. Of course, I know of guys that have a full-stock smog passing engine they keep in reserve, swap in just to drive to the test station and back, then drop back in their wild steet monster and repeat in 24 months.

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The factory service manual I have for L-16 engine list the following specs for compression.

L-16 single carb, 171 psi at 350 rpm, standard, 159 minimum.

L-16 dual carb, 242 psi at 350 rpm, standard, 159 minimum.

If you have 140 psi sompression, There are performance gains to be had by getting it back up. You will save gas on the engine, also.

Good rings, a good valve job. Keep it tuned up. I know, not sexy, will not impress your friends at the drive-in.

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we have the look test here and the webber isnt smog legal

 

the motor is in great shape all around its the original motor and it only has 135000 (milage has ben documented since it rolled off the show room floor)it has 140psi worth of compresion in all 4 cylinders it just had tune up (new coil, cap, rotor, plugs wires) the car passes smog when everything is set to factory spec (dwell:55 timing 12 deg carb tune to put out 2% co2) i just want it to have a little more pep and the car is a federal car no cat is nessisary :D:D:Dand i want to go with a 2 1/2 exhaust all the way back the stock exhaust in it is on its last leg (i put a cheap universal cat in it to help pass smog wasent nessisary a waist of $100 and now my exhaust leaks like a pig but it sounds kinda cool lol) lol no fart cannon i want to run a flowmaster for an older muscle car sound

 

DUDE

 

Put anything you want on it AFTER the smog. Then go bonkers who cares? Next smog put it back on for the test. It'll have to work as it will have zero miles on those parts. When do you test, every two years? Small price to pay.

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this isnt an l16 its an l 20b acording to the nissan sevice manual standard is 171psi minimum is 128 psi its still in an exceptable range and it also says to disconect the anti-deiseling valve i didnt do that so because of that my compression might be higher but i dont know when the last time the valves were adjusted so ill check that out

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Like the subject says, if your compression is down, so is your horsepower. Your fuel economy also is degraded. A partially worn engine also put out more pollutants, than a fresh engine.

The engine will still run, and may even run good, but you are still losing performance potential.

Every thing else you do to the engine to improve performance will be improved by having it in the best condition mechanically you can. That means good rings, and a good three to five angle valve job.

You asked for smog legal performance, my opinion, this is the best one available.

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this isnt an l16 its an l 20b acording to the nissan sevice manual standard is 171psi minimum is 128 psi its still in an exceptable range and it also says to disconect the anti-deiseling valve i didnt do that so because of that my compression might be higher but i dont know when the last time the valves were adjusted so ill check that out

 

Anti dieseling valve? do you mean the the idle cut solenoid? Has no effect on compression. In fact I can't think of anything that can change compression unless you use a different method each time. As a rule do it on a warm engine, all plugs out, ignition disconnected, carb full throttle and fully charged battery. I've had to check cold engines that weren't running and the compression always has much higher when I got it going.

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The Weber 32/36 is not Smog Legal here in California, as most shops here in Cali will state that "this carburetor is to be used on vehicles meant for off road use only". That is usually the tipoff that this part is way not legal for use on a vehicle that is meant to be smogged here in California. CARB certified or not, a smog shop that is Test Only (which is where you have to bring any old car here in CA) won't do an adjustment on them, because it would jeopardize their license with the state.

 

Datzenmike mentioned to go with using the parts for the times in between smog checks, which is theoretically possible, but if the carbs are dumping more Hydrocarbons/NOx/CO through the catalytic converter, you'll be changing the cat with every change back of your performance parts to stock parts because it will rot out the cat with all the "extra" performance. It sucks, and we've talked offline about this whole nasty smog law S#!T we have to go through with our vehicles if they are post 1975.

 

For performance, I can only recommend that you change to the EI Distributor from a late model L series motor, which is functionally identical to the one you have, except for the pesky remote mounted black box, the EI has the black box built in and is less prone to failure. It allows for a stronger spark and the write ups about it are probably immeasurable here on Ratsun.

 

Just some thoughts...

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a smog shop that is Test Only (which is where you have to bring any old car here in CA) won't do an adjustment on them, because it would jeopardize their license with the state.

there not allowed to do any adjustments-period!

i thought the state set this up so the shops couldnt charge $50 to adjust the idle speed.

 

when i had carbs and needed a smog i had the guys let me adjust while connected to the comp. :D

took awhile to find the right shop, but there everywhere in the SFV.

 

:sneaky: find a CARB sticker(or a friendly shop) that will pass the visual portion

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there not allowed to do any adjustments-period!

i thought the state set this up so the shops couldnt charge $50 to adjust the idle speed.

 

when i had carbs and needed a smog i had the guys let me adjust while connected to the comp. :D

took awhile to find the right shop, but there everywhere in the SFV.

 

:sneaky: find a CARB sticker(or a friendly shop) that will pass the visual portion

 

hang_510, you are correct. Also, it is a failsafe for the California smog check system. If your car is part of the 'High Emitter Profile' as described by the state, then it has to go to the Test Only center, where it cannot be adjusted. Kind of like a one-way street, really

Our old Datsuns just don't pass muster when it comes to the modern smog check, so we have to jump through some fiery hoops, and while in the waiting area we sweat like pigs as we watch the big rig diesel trucks continuing to belch out smoke, and the state blames our classic cars for the problems withour air quality?

It's always difficult to find a shop that will allow you into the work area, I just had my wife's car in for a smog check (a '96 Corolla, no less), and I wasn't even allowed in the shop work area. hang_510, you have found a gem of a shop if they allowed you to do adjustments while in the work area.

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yeah i thought about that myuself but then again the smog laws go by body not motor so if i drop lets say a ka in it the fuel injection alone will clean up the smog and i agree with you bro smog blows the big one its just flat out NOT FAIR!!!

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Nope. Smog laws in Cali go by Body OR Motor, whichever is newer! That also includes swaps from different mfgrs. So if you put a 2000 ls6 from a vette in a late 70's Datsun, you must have all required engine management controls(including computer) and smog equipt. to make your late 70's datsun smog as a 2000 corvette.

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