Anyone want to buy new 320 vent window rubbers?
Posted 06 November 2011 - 07:09 PM
Sadie: Scott's Old Rubber in AUS has the rear window gasket listed. I did not order one because mine is fine. I DID order a new windshield gasket from Scott's, but hie is presently out of stock and it is backordered. I am sure he will let me know when it comes in; he says when he does get it I can expect it to arrive in the USA in about a week. I am one of several people who "opted in" to Wayno's new 320 P/U windshield order (see his separate thread) and I did not want to end up sixth or seventh in line for one of these gaskets, so I pre-ordered one from Scott's so I would get his first one in .... if that makes sense.
Kevin Funk: I had no luck with that Yahoo group, either.
I have been driving and enjoying my 320, and working on fixing a bunch of little things. Sourcing another bulb holder to illuminate my new dual SMiths oil pressure/Water temp gauge, repairing the old, folded paper glovebox insert (Wrapped backside with fiberglass to reinforce it) and little crap like this.
Now I'm in the process of ordering and assembling a new garden shed so I can get all the lawnmower, bikes, and other stuff out of the third garage bay so the little 320 can pack inside at night. THis led to a project to repair the side fence, and then to pour a pad to set the shed on, and so I've already planned out my next weekend or two:)
I haven't got much new to report on these vent window rubbers yet. Hopefully the manufacturer reps will be back from their big trade show soon and we can get back on this project. Eric
Posted 10 November 2011 - 08:51 AM
We'd been counting on using the vent window seals that I received in my spare parts bin to make the molds. I didn't know the history of them, but they looked brand new and looked like they'd fit perfectly. The shape looks right, the hinges sit in the right location, etc. I was digging thru the NICO forum, and managed to find an e-mail address for the guy that actually did much of the work on my truck (and amassed the parts stash), before selling it to a different guy, and then selling it to me.
I went ahead and e-mailed him so I could find out any further history on the truck, and to find out whether he knew of a secret source for the vent window rubbers...
Well, he said that the vent window seals in my stash aren't actually for an L320, but they are for a Mazda truck (REPU I think). He had heard on a forum that they would work, but with the help of his body shop guy, he could not get them to fit. It must be an issue with the way they press into the metal door, because they look pretty damn close. I haven't tried removing my crusty vent window seals to test-fit, though.
I bet its possible to modify them to work somehow, since they do look so close.
But, whether Mazda REPU vent window seals are widely available is another issue. It seems that they might be the same as the Ford Courier, but those aren't easy to find either. It seems that lots of Mazda REPU guys have had success with just using the vent window seals from a ~1980 Mazda B2000, which must not be too hard to find. Soooo... I'm wondering if we could figure out a way of using the vent window seals from 1980 Mazda B2000s (non-sundowner style cab I think).
The Mazda B2000 should have the same shape and the same hinge locations as the Mazda REPU, which appear to be the same as those from my '65 L320. The trouble might be in making them press into the metal correctly, or just using some 3M adhesive of some sort.
For reference, here are the pics of my NOS vent window seals, which appear to be actually Mazda REPU NOS....including some pics of them held up next my vent windows.
Posted 21 November 2011 - 09:11 PM
63 RHD Bluebird with 43K original miles
76 S30...in progress
77 620 KC... in progress
Posted 23 November 2011 - 01:51 PM
I fear that making these new rubbers here in the USA will cost at least four times more than it would offshore, and I just can't afford to tie up $10,000 in a project to reproduce such a limited demand product - even for nice guys like Wayno;) If something cost $10K here, it is entirely possible I can get the product, or at least the injection moulds, made overseas for roughly a third of that amount, without compromising quality in any way.
I will not reproduce these if they cannot be made in modern ozone-resistant rubber or Polypropylene. In other words, I want modern OEM quality.
So, I'm looking to buy an inexpensive set of 320 vent rubbers, or someone who is willing to long term loan these to me. I don't want to remove mine from my driver L320 because I want to keep the truck weathertight. Since they would be going overseas, or still possibly of to an east coast manufacturer (still talking pricing) I don't want to disable someone else's project truck, so I am looking for "Spare" vent rubbers to use. But they must be OEM, we don't want to reproduce something that is not absolutely known to fit a 320.
It would be great to source these and have them before the end of the year so my engineering friend can hand carry them to Asia with him. Thank you, Eric
Posted 23 November 2011 - 04:17 PM
Posted 07 December 2011 - 09:44 AM
Posted 14 January 2012 - 08:44 PM
After the seal was out, I noticed the first differance, the 320 seal is held on the same way all the way around, the mazda seal is not, two sides are like the 320 seal, the front and bottom, the back side is held in position exactly the opposite way, which is going to be an issue.
So I installed the mazda seal into the 320 frame and ran into another issue, it is slightly shorter, I was able to stretch it a little, but it wants to return to its stock shape, so I put the wingwindow back into position to hold the seal, but it wants to pull away from the frame.
Posted 14 January 2012 - 09:00 PM
I suppose it could be sealed/glued into position using weather sealer compounds, and the rubber might be able to be stretched permanently on a board or something holding it there for an undetermined amount of time, till it holds the new shape/length.
I have not decided if this is going to work yet, and one corner split when I was trying to stretch it.
Posted 15 January 2012 - 11:20 AM
I am going to leave it in there for a while. see if it will hold the new length, then will look into the rear side mount issue, guess I should have bought the mazda frame also, maybe it could be cut(the edge that is differant) out and added to the 320 frame somehow.
Posted 15 January 2012 - 10:50 PM
63 RHD Bluebird with 43K original miles
76 S30...in progress
77 620 KC... in progress
Posted 15 January 2012 - 11:47 PM
I wonder if putting a little bit of heat to it for a long time (like 48 hours at 150 degrees) would help?
I'm going to leave it in the stretcher for a week, then pull it out and check it against the other one.
I think the biggest issue is going to be how the upright mounts, the front and bottom are fine.
Posted 29 January 2012 - 06:02 PM
Posted 29 January 2012 - 07:13 PM
I went back to the wrecking yard the next day and bought the mazda window frames, my plan is to cut the the part that is missing on are frames out of it, and here is my issue, the NL320 frames are stainless steel, so that is an issue for me, all I can do is glue/epoxy the piece into position, unlike L320 frames which it could be welded in as they are not SS.
Here is a couple of photos of the part that is differant than our frames, are frames do not have anything protruding outward.
Posted 29 January 2012 - 07:40 PM
Posted 30 January 2012 - 09:26 PM
Here are the photos, my camera is not that good under house lights, I probably deleted 30 to 40 photos just getting these 8 photos.
Posted 05 February 2012 - 10:36 AM
If you look close at the back upright edge, you can see the strip of metal holding the rear of the gasket strait, this is going to be an issue for NL320 owners, I have not tried to cut the back edge of that piece yet to make it narrow enough to slip in between the NL window frame uprights, and I am not sure I am even going to try for two reasons, one the way it is I can weld that piece to my 63 L320 frame if that is the route I choose to go as it is not stainless steel, the other reason for me is why, my NL320 wingwindows don't leak air at the moment.
If we are to use a gasket to have molds made, I think it would be just better to use a 320 gasket, instead of a modified mazda gasket.
The rear part needs to be connected to the upright, mine is not right now, so when I put the wingwindow in, I had to help the gasket back to close the window
The only way I see to make this work properly on a L320, is to cut the rear L320 upright out of the frame, and weld the mazda one in its place, as they are both just steel, but the gasket would still need stretched, but I beleave it would work in the end.
Posted 05 February 2012 - 07:26 PM
I bet if you had new rubber and added some type of low heat to it, they would squish around a bit and re-mold themselves.
Posted 05 February 2012 - 07:36 PM