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resto-mod 521 buildup (goin tube frame now)


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I had a thread going in the 720 forum, but I decided to make a new thread since there isn't much 720 left of this project... ;-)
So I picked up this 1971 521 that had been used as a parts truck, but was still quite complete as most of the hard to find parts are still on it.


Missing/Needed:
Grill
Grill surround trim
interior rear view mirror


Extra parts:
extra set of wheels with no hub caps

OICS:
as it sat when I picked it up:
2011-09-24%25252017.39.11_Loganville_Geo


Slight damage to the Left front fender, but nothing too terrible or out of my ability to fix..
2011-09-24%25252016.48.41_Loganville_Geo

2011-09-24%25252016.47.05.jpg


at the shop:
2011-09-25%25252016.35.01_Statham_Georgi


2011-09-25%25252016.15.49.jpg

ZERO rust-through in the floors(but the left side body mounts are gone??)
2011-09-24%25252017.02.38_Loganville_Geo



2011-09-24%25252017.06.26_Loganville_Geo


2011-09-24%25252017.06.16_Loganville_Geo




Plan is to paint the body/cab a strong deep red (free urethane paint) while the frame gets painted in epoxy primer and black.
2011-09-05%25252018.22.54_Statham_Georgi




now there is a lot going on already for this truck....

81' 720 4x4 frame getting a Dana 44 up front and another full width axle(Ford 9" or another Dana 44 in the back). Currently in the middle of stripping the frame down to bare essentials before epoxy primer and mounting the new suspension.
2011-09-17%25252017.38.37_Statham_Georgi

before the 7(spread out) days worth of work it took to get to the above photo:
2011-09-03%25252010.15.26.jpg
Floors were gone, damage on every fender from wreckless offroading by the previous owners, and 290,000 miles on the clock!

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Finished cutting all the stuff off around the engine mounts/IFS area late last night...

2011-09-30%25252018.51.17.jpg

 

 

This morning came in and finished up a couple little spots and started laying Epoxy primer.

2011-10-01%25252013.43.28.jpg

 

 

2011-10-01%25252013.43.51.jpg

 

 

Then I started laying color

 

2011-10-01%25252015.50.08.jpg

 

 

2011-10-01%25252015.50.39.jpg

 

 

I still have to do all the front suspension mounting, but the majority of the chassis is done and will just have to do touchup on the areas to be welded.

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I decided on a paint scheme... and it is the same scheme I had on my 260Z, but never finished it and it was just Rustoleum...and I may paint the hood red.

Got a pinstriper who is going to do some silver pinstripe between the two colors as well.

 

Old school pics from 2006 of my gutted and LOUD 260Z

o37446252.jpg

 

 

o39035179.jpg

 

 

Ratsun jackstands:

o40528965.jpg

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Started sanding some today with an air powered DA sander and 180 grit just to find out how BAD the roof damage is (farm truck, carried ladders leaning against the roof)

2011-10-03%25252017.50.02_Statham_Georgia_US.jpg

 

 

Looks like it should all be able to be filled in and re-contour'd with finishing putty. Going to apply seam sealer in the drip rails since the factory sealer is long gone.

 

Hit it with some flat black just to keep it from flash rusting.

2011-10-03%25252018.57.53_Statham_Georgia_US.jpg

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Been busy this weekend.

Worked on and pitted our new #59 Batter's Dream Ford Fusion this weekend at the ARCA race at Kansas speedway on Friday. The car is driven by Buster Graham and this was his 7th race ever in any car. Finished in a respectable 20th place at his first 1.5 mile intermediate track race.

10_1_t990.jpg?30f31baef1afd0a91aba8e74ec76c5214cc818ca

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some more bodywork on the 521... Any tips on sealing the rusty spots that are under the factory primer before I lay new epoxy primer? Don't want it to bubble through the new paint.

 

 

Commercial formulas are available using phosphoric acid as the active agent. Applied to non flaking rust, it chemically neutralizes it, preventing futher oxidation~ as long as it wasn't sneaking in from the backside in the first place.

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Commercial formulas are available using phosphoric acid as the active agent. Applied to non flaking rust, it chemically neutralizes it, preventing futher oxidation~ as long as it wasn't sneaking in from the backside in the first place.

 

I have used rust converter before, didn't know if it was good to use directly under primer or not. I have plenty of rusty crusty Datsun metal to practice on!

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I just put this in my 1980 datsun diesel dually, I am hoping that the paint lasts like your hoping I see.:lol: I rebuilt this engine over a year ago, it seems to be running good.

100_0118.jpg

100_0110.jpg

This is what happens when you over heat one of these engines, it runs, but you need a squirt of starting fluid to get it going, then it smokes real bad for a long time.

DSCN0700.jpg

DSCN0701.jpg

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BTW, when you drop the 521 cab onto the 720 frame, line the front two cab mount bolts under the radiator core support, they center the front wheels in the fender well, and the engine will be about as centered as it's going to be, you will have to mod the heater core outlets because there isn't a lot of room back there. I have photos of how I did the heater core connection.

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2eDeYe' date='12 October 2011 - 09:49 AM' timestamp='1318430958' post='560983']

Excited to see the suspension come together. What is the plan? Leaf springs? Coils?

 

not 100% sure on springing method yet but.... there are some parts in the mail for the suspension. :-D

 

 

here are some oics from today.

 

valvetrain is pretty clean for a diesel...

2011-10-13%25252016.29.41_Statham_Georgia_US.jpg

 

 

2011-10-13%25252016.30.17_Statham_Georgia_US.jpg

 

 

painting more stuffff

2011-10-13%25252016.17.37.jpg

 

 

2011-10-13%25252016.17.19.jpg

 

 

2011-10-13%25252016.17.09.jpg

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Just played around a little today...

2011-10-18%25252015.43.31.jpg

 

trying to figure out some geometry stuff with the front axle swap... (ignore the GM/ Circle track steering box, I was just playing with ideas but this one was not going to work too well)

2011-10-18%25252015.44.00.jpg

 

 

Looks like I'm going to have to extend the frame rails and put the steering box pretty far forward. My wheelbase is going to have to be 2-3" longer than the stock 720, and about 14-15" longer than the 521.

Think about 113" is going to get everything to where it will work together.

 

Bracketry should be in tomorrow... ordered some stuff from Artec Industries.

this pair of axle side lower brackets:

loweraxle1.jpg

 

 

Once I get motor mounts in, I can figure out where I can fit the 3rd link in.

 

 

one of these adjustable upper link axle brackets

adjtower1.jpg

 

 

two of these chassis brackets

lowerframe2.jpg

 

 

Haven't decided on Johnny Joints or Crawler joints yet, but I gotta get stuff ordered!!!

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Got my Artec brackets in today...

 

and Called up Currie Enterprises and ordered 6 of their 2.5" Forged Johnny Joints with the 1.25" shanks with jam nuts and all the poly parts to rebuild them when that time comes. that cost more than the whole 521 truck did! LOL!

3 Left hand thread and 3 Right hand thread

CE-9114.jpg

 

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painted a 91 Toyota Corolla today. Whew that was a lot of work.

Painted with Guertin epoxy primer, then with Valspar 860 Urethane paint with HPC-1 hardener, and the medium speed reducer.

 

2011-10-20%25252016.25.09_Statham_Georgia_US.jpg

 

 

2011-10-20%25252016.25.21_Statham_Georgia_US.jpg

 

 

The color is "Arctic Sky", just a shade off of robin egg blue. Need to get some new wheel covers for it...

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Made some progress on the steering section of this job. Steering was about the only thing I was too worried about but I think I have it pretty close.

 

Cut out the left front frame rail just inside the stock body mount

2011-10-25%25252011.23.38.jpg

 

Welded in some 2"x4" rectangular material(still to be plated) and mocked up the steering box.

 

2011-10-25%25252015.49.43_Statham_Georgia_US.jpg

 

2011-10-25%25252015.48.14_Statham_Georgia_US.jpg

 

2011-10-25%25252015.21.46_Statham_Georgia_US.jpg

 

 

This makes the drag link 31", which makes quite a short Panhard bar but there isn't too much else I can do with this type of Saginaw steering box...

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