datsunfreak Posted June 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 That 195/50 looks scary for the local roads... Seems like I'd shred a tire or two riding that close to the fenders. I did add spring stiffeners to firm up the rear suspension. It did scrape a lot before I did that. :rofl: I have 14x6 Dyna meshies but no idea what the offsets are (or how to accurately measure it). I guess that was why I thought about the 165/55s since 185s might look like balloons 185s look fine on a 14x6. That's what they are made for. :thumbup: http://www.nightanddayphoto.ca/misc/forumpics/DK/Wats4Sale/20090522_153848_1010936.jpg Also thanks for the basset/aero/bart advice. It looks like the prices are just a tad higher than aero, but I think I'll go aero for slightly better piece of mind. Cool. 1 Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted June 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 Vibration is minimal and I actually think they vibrate less than my inside mirrors. Usually tightening the nut on the bottom to put more tension on the spring will dial out most/all vibrations. Link to comment
KELMO Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 That is where I used the fender washers 2 or 3 inside the tube that the spring goes in, worked out well. 2 Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted June 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 That is where I used the fender washers 2 or 3 inside the tube that the spring goes in Good idea. ^_^ Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted June 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2015 Raised the front 1" to even it out some. It still has a bit of a rake to it, but the tire gaps match better now. I want to get it outside and see how it looks before deciding if this is a viable option. Keeping this height and switching to a 185/55-14 would fill the fenders better and flush it out some... 2 Link to comment
Kirden Posted June 23, 2015 Report Share Posted June 23, 2015 Wait, raised? Is Tim talking you into rally as well? :P It does look good with that rake though. Can't really see it in that picture but it seems like 1/2 or 1 inch lower in the front and back would be the ticket. Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted June 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2015 It does look good with that rake though. Can't really see it in that picture but it seems like 1/2 or 1 inch lower in the front and back would be the ticket. Originally the plan was to drop the rear an inch to "match" the front. I raised the front 1" just to see how it looked. Witholding final judgement until I roll it outside and get a better look at it. Hard to tell much inside the shop. I think we have come to the conclusion that splitting the difference would be best. I raised the front one inch to "match" the rear, so what I'm going to do is lower the rear (and front) 1/2". That should get me close to what the front was before but still retain a little ride comfort in the rear. Front struts have been shortened, so I still have a good 3" of bump travel even when it's all the way down. The rear, not so much. I have about 3" of bump at this height, so every inch I go lower is getting that much closer to bottoming out. Which I can not stand. 1 Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted June 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2015 Raised the front 1" to even it out some. It still has a bit of a rake to it, but the tire gaps match better now. I want to get it outside and see how it looks before deciding if this is a viable option. And I think after seeing outside, I'm going to keep it this way for the foreseeable future. Once I wear out these tires, I may switch to a 185/55-14 which would be 10mm taller and 20mm wider so they will fill the flares better at this height. This will still be pretty damn low (and have some mean rake to it), but it will give me a slightly more tolerable ride, and not cause me to have to dodge every single imperfection in the road... ^_^ 3 Link to comment
dimlight65 Posted June 26, 2015 Report Share Posted June 26, 2015 Hear, hear! I think losing that little bit of rake has changed my opinion from, "Yeah, they look a little too small but they look like period correct racecar tires." to, "Aw, hells yeah! That looks bitchin' yo!" or whatever you kids are saying these days. 4 Link to comment
racer135 Posted June 30, 2015 Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 The console I'm using came from an automatic car so it doesn't really have a place to attach a shift boot, only the four holes that the shifter bolts into. So I had to get crafty... Cut two pieces of styrene sheet to the width of the opening, then drilled holes to match up to the holes in the console, and rounded off the edges... Then used some material to sew up a new shift boot, inserted the plastic pieces inside the boot, then used them to bolt the boot down with some 3/16" bolts and nuts... Stays nice and tight and even looks semi-professional. :rofl: I used some spare fabric from the boot to make a pad for the cubby in the front of the console. :thumbup: Those four holes are for a chrome trim to attach to, bprojects has them for sale on ebay Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 Those four holes are for a chrome trim to attach to, bprojects has them for sale on ebay Yeah, but at nearly $100... :huh: I believe you can buy the complete console out of South Africa for about that. And my solution costs 37 cents, so... ^_^ 1 Link to comment
racer135 Posted July 1, 2015 Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 Probably wouldn't be that difficult or expensive for someone to 3D print you one. I didn't look real close at what you made Link to comment
dimlight65 Posted July 2, 2015 Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 Probably wouldn't be that difficult or expensive for someone to 3D print you one. Pfft! 3D printing is just a fad... like these interweb things. 1 Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 I didn't look real close at what you made So you don't really know what I did, but you're pretty sure it was the wrong thing to do... :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: 1 Link to comment
racer135 Posted July 2, 2015 Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 I never said it was wrong, I just mentioned what the factory use of those holes was. Link to comment
racer135 Posted July 2, 2015 Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o277/racer135/20150702_165108.jpg Link to comment
Dguy210 Posted July 2, 2015 Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 I really want the console with the clock mount. I haven't seen one come up recently, or at least that I can afford, though. Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 just mentioned what the factory use of those holes was. Thanks. :thumbup: On most other vehicles there are bosses on the bottom side to screw a metal plate too. This is the only 1200 console I've ever come across. Link to comment
racer135 Posted July 3, 2015 Report Share Posted July 3, 2015 I was told all the coupes came with the ones with the big end bit. I should have checked the coupe section of the book in hindsight, it lists whether it's optional for the different body shapes or trim levels. Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2015 I was told all the coupes came with the ones with the big end bit. Apologies, none sold in the US came with them. I keep forgetting you're in Oz. ^_^ My console, the flat one, came in USDM automatic transmission cars. Cars with a 4spd came with nothing but a rubber shift boot. 2 Link to comment
racer135 Posted July 5, 2015 Report Share Posted July 5, 2015 Yeah it could have been an AUSDM thing, and I'm not sure what region my parts book is from Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 Finally fixed something that's been on my list ever since I did the RHD swap. The steering box had to come over from Japan empty, and I didn't want it to wear out prematurely once the car got rolling, so I finally refilled the fluid they took out before shipping... Been occasionally looking for one of these big plastic syringes for awhile. Found one last week, so time to get to work. Filled it halfway up (which is a bit of over 1oz) and squirted it in... Got that much in and couldn't see it in the box. Shot in that much again and still couldn't see it. Had to reload that syringe five times to get it up to the top... :rofl: Got the plug back in and gave it a whirl. Steering feels a little smoother, but the effort is definitely now slightly higher... :rofl: And if anyone ever asks you, you can say the steering gearbox takes at least 6 ounces of fluid. :thumbup: 4 Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted July 9, 2015 Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 Great information, thanks. Where did you get the syringe? Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 Where did you get the syringe? Everyone who sees it asks if it's a turkey marinade injector... :rofl: I think one of those would actually work. You can buy one cheap from Amazon. Just ditch the metal tip. I had a guy come to my house to add some refrigerant to my AC system. Since it was a few pounds down, he shot some kind of magic leak stop stuff in it using this syringe. He was going to toss it in the trash since they are meant to be a one time use, so I said "Hey, I need that!". I took off the metal tip so it would have a bigger outlet. Gear oil is very thick stuff. :rofl: 3 Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2015 Knocked another thing off the list. Found a gallon ziploc bag full of rubber body plugs in the parts stash. Dug through those and found enough plugs to fill all the holes in the firewall. Didn't take a pic since black rubber plugs look just like the black holes they filled... :rofl: 1 Link to comment
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