Draker Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 Test vacuum booster... drive car. Put in neutral while coasting... turn off car while still coasting. Press brakes, you should have one power assisted brake with engine off. If not.. there is a leak. Or, buy a mightyvac.. test, end. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 A small leak will still work once or twice with engine off. Not a complete test. Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 the booster currently is not a concern, unless it is affecting how my brakes are bled . Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 Idle speed dropping is a bad sign. Probably a small vacuum leak in the booster. Could also be the brake lights loading down the alternator. I mean a noticeable poor idle. My 620's 35 amp alt. really did this. Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 have 90 amp swap.. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 Well you could pinch the hose to the booster to show if it is the cause or not but I think you still have air in the lines. The caliper bleeders are at the top? correct? Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 http://community.ratsun.net/topic/34168-here-we-goon/page-11 you can see orientation ^^^ and i grabbed some pressure valve things from a zx MC should i put those in? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 The residual valves will reduce the residual pressure needed for drum on the rear discs. They go in the front of the master for the rear brakes. They won't affect the pedal travel or 'feel' but is bleeding the brakes you may as well do it now. I have drum on the back of my 710 but am running a zx 15/16" master designed for rear disc. I put a drum residual valve in and I could see no difference between them so don't mix them up. I suspect that all disc residual valves are the same just as all drum are the same. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 the booster currently is not a concern, unless it is affecting how my brakes are bled . Yes, booster affects the feel of the pedal. So bleed with engine off and pump several times until the vacuum is used up. This will take the booster squishiness out of the picture. Bleed the brakes then once you start the engine the booster will recharge. Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 ok i have been messing around with my carbs to get the to fire up right.. accomplished now when i start the car, the booster drops about an inch after a couple of pumps before start. so i've bled the brakes to where the light doesn't come on at all anymore :thumbup: buttttt while driving only on the second pump and then hold do i get really good braking .. if i step on the brakes really hard on first push i start to slow but not ideal normal stopping ... its really close now but does this sound like air still ?? :confused: Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 Nvm I lied the wire wAs disconnected fml sigh Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 could it be an issue that the maxima calipers come stock with banjo bolt style lines, and im using wagon hard lines? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 Shouldn't matter if sealed tight. Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 would you happen to know the thread pitch of the wagon hard lines? or the pitch the banjo bolt for these calipers? 1 Quote Link to comment
hosestop@msn.com Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 10mm x 1 thread pitch ,length 20mm on banjo bolt. I also sell ez bend tubing way easier to work with, I can send stuff but cost 5$ for priority mail, so get back to me if needed ,I lived in So. Tahoe also for four years , and there was car dealers even in 80s but they closed and only Honda Dealer was still in bus. Had a two tone blue 2dr.510 with Su's. Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted March 15, 2014 Report Share Posted March 15, 2014 ok so i tried everything for bleeding ,no dice so i drained the entire system to get to the proportioning valve, opened it up cleaned it out had some crusty rustys in side... seals were all intact and had a smooth bore so put it back together . i opened up my 13/16 master cyl. also to try to add the zx pressure regulator but found this so the funny thing is, the one on the right with a hole in the center was on the rear brake line and the closed one on the left was on the front?? soooo i went and grabbed an extra 3/4 stock bmc i had opened it up and the two pressure reg. seals were opposite the one with the hole in the center was on the front and the closed one on the rear line. im assuming the one with the hole is to allow fluid to flow back? so what i did was take two of the sealed ones and put them in both front and rear i will test 2maro and report back Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.