Eric Garside Posted September 17, 2011 Report Share Posted September 17, 2011 Today I got the L-Series out and briefly set the KA in. On to the OIC"s Out with the old..... its so empty And in with the new :) From the looks of it just a little bit more clearance on the firewall side and it should fit right in. I will be rebuilding the engine but I want to have the mounting/fab/wiring work out of the way first. The engine is out of a 93 240sx. I will do my best to document everything I do so others can hopefully use this to help save a few headaches. Let me know if you want pictures of something specific and I will do my best to oblige. The plan is to have it read for CaNdy 2012. 1 Quote Link to comment
Wide14u Posted September 17, 2011 Report Share Posted September 17, 2011 how fun is this looks good 1 Quote Link to comment
fivetenguy Posted September 17, 2011 Report Share Posted September 17, 2011 Awsome!! I like the way you are taking detailed pics showing how much you are off in crucial areas. This is something I would like to eventually do on my 620. Please keep us posted with issues, ideas, solutions and such. I will definitely follow this build! 1 Quote Link to comment
drastic520 Posted September 18, 2011 Report Share Posted September 18, 2011 nice!!! u know ill be watching for sure. parting out the l by any chance? i need a ei dizzy. Quote Link to comment
southern620 Posted September 18, 2011 Report Share Posted September 18, 2011 Subscribed. I'll be starting similar swap as soon as the temp cools down. Best of luck man 1 Quote Link to comment
wildmaninid Posted September 18, 2011 Report Share Posted September 18, 2011 You gonna run hoodless like chet, or are ya gonna set that engine a little closer to the crossmember lol 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted September 18, 2011 Report Share Posted September 18, 2011 Not much clearance for the steering, it appears. How ya gonna tackle that? Otherwise, looks good. That's going to be a huge gain! 1 Quote Link to comment
wildmaninid Posted September 18, 2011 Report Share Posted September 18, 2011 Not much clearance for the steering, it appears. How ya gonna tackle that? Otherwise, looks good. That's going to be a huge gain! I will be following this closely as well!! Quote Link to comment
Eric Garside Posted September 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2011 You gonna run hoodless like chet, or are ya gonna set that engine a little closer to the crossmember lol There is a ton of room between the crossmember and the pan but it looks like it will clear the hood just fine. I will have a better idea about having to lower it once the tranny is in place. If the tranny clears the tunnel I dont see a reason to lower it anymore, if I do it will just be in the way of the center link more. Not much clearance for the steering, it appears. How ya gonna tackle that? Otherwise, looks good. That's going to be a huge gain! I think the pan will have to be massaged a little to make the steering work but looks really close. If its too tight I will do what redeye did and put the center link under the pitman arm. This just requires welding the taper shut and then ream the taper in from the other side. Jeep guys do it all the time to keep their steering geometry correct. ---- Thanks for all the support guys. I know this is going to be a steep learning curve but I am super stoked to put this thing together. I need to pick a factory service manual for the S13 engine as I am not familiar with all of the emissions components and whatnot. The L will be put in storage for spare parts for my other 620 but I could be persuaded to sell some parts off it. Send me a PM with what you need, an offer, and we will work something out Quote Link to comment
tangmo Posted September 18, 2011 Report Share Posted September 18, 2011 I like you 620. Quote Link to comment
slingshot532 Posted September 18, 2011 Report Share Posted September 18, 2011 Nice project! :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted September 18, 2011 Report Share Posted September 18, 2011 There is a ton of room between the crossmember and the pan but it looks like it will clear the hood just fine. I will have a better idea about having to lower it once the tranny is in place. If the tranny clears the tunnel I dont see a reason to lower it anymore, if I do it will just be in the way of the center link more. The trans is the limiting factor. It will hit the tunnel. You'll either have to beat the tunnel or modify the mounts. I modified my mounts to keep the cab straight. I think the pan will have to be massaged a little to make the steering work but looks really close. If its too tight I will do what redeye did and put the center link under the pitman arm. This just requires welding the taper shut and then ream the taper in from the other side. Jeep guys do it all the time to keep their steering geometry correct. If you have a welder, it's cheaper to pick up a ream and do it yourself (I paid about $200 to get it done). Make sure to get the correct taper. The pan won't need too much massaging. :) Do you have a 620 AC unit for under the dash? Quote Link to comment
Jayden71 Posted September 18, 2011 Report Share Posted September 18, 2011 I like this!! Can't wait to see it at candY 2012!!!! Quote Link to comment
Eric Garside Posted September 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2011 2eDeYe' date='18 September 2011 - 07:02 AM' timestamp='1316358163' post='548893']The trans is the limiting factor. It will hit the tunnel. You'll either have to beat the tunnel or modify the mounts. I modified my mounts to keep the cab straight. If you have a welder, it's cheaper to pick up a ream and do it yourself (I paid about $200 to get it done). Make sure to get the correct taper. The pan won't need too much massaging. :) Do you have a 620 AC unit for under the dash? How much did you lower your mounts? Where do I find out what the right taper is? Im sorry I dont have an AC unit. I have only ever seen one and it was at the wrecking yard. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted September 18, 2011 Report Share Posted September 18, 2011 Haha, I read K/C as A/C :lol: I dropped mine 5/8". I just did another set dropped 3/4" for another swap. Which should get a bit more room at the firewall, a small bit, but that's the tightest area on my truck. I think the taper is 7%. You should be able to verify with a stock part in hand with some measuring. Quote Link to comment
Eric Garside Posted September 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2011 What would you charge me to do mine if I send them to you? Quote Link to comment
Eric Garside Posted September 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2011 Scored some parts at Pull and Save today. Nice set of mirrors, volvo fuel pump for $7, lowering blocks, and some other miscellaneous stuff. What have you guys used for the outlet on the pump, as far as plumbing? Also, why is the outlet so much smaller than the inlet? Also saw this and thought it was interesting.... Any idea what kind of carb that is? It looks really small, im not sure why someone would invest in that instead of a weber (not really relevant to my build but I thought I would share anyway). Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted September 19, 2011 Report Share Posted September 19, 2011 That's a propane mixer. It's like $2 a gallon here, gas is almost $4. : :mellow: Sent you a PM about the mounts. Quote Link to comment
wildmaninid Posted September 22, 2011 Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 Scored some parts at Pull and Save today. Nice set of mirrors, volvo fuel pump for $7, lowering blocks, and some other miscellaneous stuff. What have you guys used for the outlet on the pump, as far as plumbing? Also, why is the outlet so much smaller than the inlet? Also saw this and thought it was interesting.... Any idea what kind of carb that is? It looks really small, im not sure why someone would invest in that instead of a weber (not really relevant to my build but I thought I would share anyway). yea, LPG conversion. Quote Link to comment
DREWSDIME Posted September 22, 2011 Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 That conversion might be worth something??? Quote Link to comment
Eric Garside Posted September 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 If anyone wants it let me know and all you'll have to pay is parts and shipping. There is no tank with it Quote Link to comment
wildmaninid Posted September 22, 2011 Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 THere already isn't alot of power to be had with a datsun motor, i wouldn't do an lpg conversion, makes your power go in the toilet. I have boxes upon boxes of lpg conversion stuff thats been removed. you can have it lol. Quote Link to comment
Eric Garside Posted September 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 Go bill! I'm looking for a factory 620 K/C fuel tank if anyone knows a good place to buy one Quote Link to comment
wildmaninid Posted September 22, 2011 Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 Go bill! I'm looking for a factory 620 K/C fuel tank if anyone knows a good place to buy one I gots one. I'll make ya a helluva deal on a 79 parts truck! Quote Link to comment
Eric Garside Posted September 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 Is it extra cab? PM me with details! I could always use more parts ;) Quote Link to comment
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