Jon's 521 L20b 5 speeed

[jon521]

Good to see those plugs in.:ph34r:

 

Maybe use some rubber bushings, like sway bar end links? on the blots for the carrier bearing, to fill that gap....also nylon lock nuts instead of lock washers?

 

 

thanks! i will send some money your way soon! i didnt tighten them down flush because on one i saw a slight crack so i stopped right there and the rest i didnt go as far! but they still look great to me!

 

i should be able to go to autozone or wherever and find some different size bushing that could fit. also, how come my lock washers dont work they way i have them?

 

 

 

i didnt get it even started today. pretty dissappointed, also finding some new scratches in my passenger door that was nearly perfect before....

but i did get the carb on and hooked up, and the thermostat housing on. looking at the housing, below the large port that goes to my radiator, there is a smaller port. i dont know what it is for (maybe something with the AC or something?) anyways, i need to plug it before getting coolant in and starting it up.

 

i was thinking about getting one of these in the future:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-510-68-73-521-Truck-NEW-Custom-Un-Polished-3-Row-Aluminum-Radiator-/160665414845?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item256867acbd

[yello620]

Jon, is the extra hole in your coolant neck for the guage sending unit? It goes in there too, points forward, right under the upper radiator hose.

 

And i think that i have a 620 driveline/carrier bearing mount that you need. Will look.

 

Lockwashers are crap. :blink: Go for the nylocks or even better, get the crimp nuts.

[wayno]

thanks! i will send some money your way soon! i didnt tighten them down flush because on one i saw a slight crack so i stopped right there and the rest i didnt go as far! but they still look great to me!

 

i should be able to go to autozone or wherever and find some different size bushing that could fit. also, how come my lock washers dont work they way i have them?

 

 

 

i didnt get it even started today. pretty dissappointed, also finding some new scratches in my passenger door that was nearly perfect before....

but i did get the carb on and hooked up, and the thermostat housing on. looking at the housing, below the large port that goes to my radiator, there is a smaller port. i dont know what it is for (maybe something with the AC or something?) anyways, i need to plug it before getting coolant in and starting it up.

 

i was thinking about getting one of these in the future:

http://www.ebay.com/...=item256867acbd

 

Lock washers are meant to be tight, metal to metal tight, if you were to put a metal collar in between the upper and lower pieces(where you can see threads), and then tighten it tight, that would work, but what you have is a rubber piece holding the parts apart, which will let the parts move around, and that will not work, eventually the nuts will loosen and fall off, beleave me, you do not want that to happen. You need a 620 mount.

That lower port that you mentioned is needed, I have been lead to beleave that it lets a little hot water to bypass the thermostat, if you plug it off, your engine will more than likely overheat for no reason while driving down the road. I put a L16 housing(no bypass) on my LZ23, and I had an overheating issue, later I found out that the L16 thermostat itself has a hole in it to let the small amount of water get by, the function of that hose. I don't beleave I have a photo of this at the moment, there is an outlet on the pass. side of the water pump that has a hose that points strait up under the mechanical fuel pump, that goes to the intake manifold on some engines, that line has a TEE in it, that goes to the thermostat housing port you are talking about, you need this to function properly.

[merlin]

so glad you're doing this 2 steps ahead of me... Less mistakes for me to make lol!

I pulled my l16 on thursday... The 521 pan and 620 pan are identical so i'm going to use the 620 one as it's in better shape. Also using the 620 exhaust mani as well. Both need new 2 to 1 collectors, so no point in using the 521 one... Need to have the beast rolling by sunday so... Knock on wood.

[datzenmike]

IIRC...The metal rim around the isolator isn't round but kind of triangle shape so if not rotated into the correct position it won't sit properly when clamped down.

 

[jon521]

@yello620

it isnt the temp. sending unit, i have that all hooked up. it is what wayno is talking about, some sort of bypass. i would be interested in the 620 mount IF you have one!

 

@wayno

i will try and see about a 620 mount. in the mean time i will try to see if i can make some sort of metal collar.

i will also run some heater hose from the that port on the thermostat to the port by the water pump. Speaking of L16 thermostats, i pullled mine off my L16, and i didnt even have a thermostat in there, so it would have been just flowing through constantly.

 

@merlin

Good! im glad i can be of service. you will probably drive yours before i do.

 

there is a difference between the pans, even though they look similar.

 

@mike

on the 521 bearing, i noticed this rounded trianglular shape, but i looked for it on this 620 bearing, and it seemed pretty round to me.

 

 

[wayno]

Here is where the hose starts at the water pump on the pass. side.

Then it goes forward under the fuel pump and makes a turn in front of the head.

Then it continues above the water pump till it gets to the tee I was saying mine has, the top of the tee goes to the thermostat housing port, and the lower line continues to my intake manifold.

This is a photo of the port that the top of the tee goes to.

If you look real close you can see the connection to the intake manifold and the port on the side of the thermostat housing.

['70 521 L16]

I guess that t portion is to help with intake temp..? You could always block it off and use the outlet under the thermostat for an aftermarket temp gague. It looks like you have another one on the outside of it as well blocked off with a bolt. Mine only had one outlet but I stole a t-stat housing from a 280z so I could have two just in case. It seems like for the carrier bearing as long as the driveshaft can still move around the bearing it wouldn't hurt anything to have it as tight as possible around the rubber. It would be sturdier that way. If not it definitely needs some spacers/lock washers at the least. Keep it up man! You're getting closer.

[wayno]

You need the hose to have the thermostat work properly in the L20b, as I understand it, the reason the L16 thermostat housing does not have the hose, is because the thermostat itself has holes in it to let the water bypass it. I suppose that one could drill holes in the thermostat itself if you are unable to find the parts you need to set it up correctly, or buy a L16 thermostat with the holes already in it, but i would just set it up the way it is supposed to be from the start, as I already did it with the L16 housing and did have water temp issues.

[jon521]

You need the hose to have the thermostat work properly in the L20b, as I understand it, the reason the L16 thermostat housing does not have the hose, is because the thermostat itself has holes in it to let the water bypass it. I suppose that one could drill holes in the thermostat itself if you are unable to find the parts you need to set it up correctly, or buy a L16 thermostat with the holes already in it, but i would just set it up the way it is supposed to be from the start, as I already did it with the L16 housing and did have water temp issues.

 

 

the line going to my intake has been blocked off by a previous owner, but i can still just run some hose to the port on the housing, so it will work just fine. it just wont look as clean as i wanted it to....

[jon521]

I guess that t portion is to help with intake temp..? You could always block it off and use the outlet under the thermostat for an aftermarket temp gague. It looks like you have another one on the outside of it as well blocked off with a bolt. Mine only had one outlet but I stole a t-stat housing from a 280z so I could have two just in case. It seems like for the carrier bearing as long as the driveshaft can still move around the bearing it wouldn't hurt anything to have it as tight as possible around the rubber. It would be sturdier that way. If not it definitely needs some spacers/lock washers at the least. Keep it up man! You're getting closer.

 

 

i think i have some metal tubing i can cut to work as a large washer/spacer for the carrier bearing, so i will probably just do that. maybe in the future i will get a 620 mount for a cleaner look and better fit. Thanks for the encouragement!

[jon521]

ITS ALIVE! finally! i started it and drove it in and out of the shop today with no problems! no pics or video because i didnt have my camera because i didnt think id drive it today but for sure tomorrow! i didnt get the right hose for the coolant bypass so it was leaking a bit, so i need to fix that, and i have a bad exhaust leak where the manifold meets the tubing. i put a new gasket on it, but i will take a look at it tomorrow. but i have to take it down off the rack because other classes need it......also still need to make the spacers for the carrier bearing mount. :D shit, im so stoked!

[crackerjack69]

Hells ya! Good work Jon. If you want that peanut, bring the other one back, +50 :) It needs machined, has a little gouge. Or build the other one since you already milled it. So I guess you'll be pickin the stuff up as opposed to shipping? I get to see Jon's 521 in person??? Good work man, I bet it felt great to hear it run.

[jon521]

Hells ya! Good work Jon. If you want that peanut, bring the other one back, +50 :) It needs machined, has a little gouge. Or build the other one since you already milled it. So I guess you'll be pickin the stuff up as opposed to shipping? I get to see Jon's 521 in person??? Good work man, I bet it felt great to hear it run.

 

 

Thanks man! i dont know if we will be coming up in my truck or my brothers GTI. ya it was awesome to hear it fire! it was even better to get in it and actually have it move!

[jon521]

fixed the coolant leak and found the exhaust leak. i need to remove one of the studs on the bottom of the manifold where it meets the tubing. the threads are stripped, and i ran a rethreader over it and it didnt help. but that wont be too hard to switch. heres the video :) sorry, a little short, i ran out of room on my camera.

 

 

also! i have not put my glass pack back on yet so thats not how it will sound

[jon521]

shit. as i was using a stud remover on that lower stud on the manifold, i broke the stud. fuckin awesome. so that sets me back a bit. i didnt mess with it too much (too frustrated) but im planning on drilling it out, if i can with it in there, then just putting a nut and a bolt through it....

[wayno]

shit. as i was using a stud remover on that lower stud on the manifold, i broke the stud. fuckin awesome. so that sets me back a bit. i didnt mess with it too much (too frustrated) but im planning on drilling it out, if i can with it in there, then just putting a nut and a bolt through it....

 

Is there any of the stud sticking up out of the manifold? Do not mess with it until you get a torch, you need to heat up the manifold till it is glowing red around the stud, then hit the side of the manifold near the stud with a hammer, then turn the stud out, it will come out easy if you do this.

[jon521]

Is there any of the stud sticking up out of the manifold? Do not mess with it until you get a torch, you need to heat up the manifold till it is glowing red around the stud, then hit the side of the manifold near the stud with a hammer, then turn the stud out, it will come out easy if you do this.

 

Any ide if this is possible with the manifold in the truck still?

[wayno]

I doubt it can be done in the rig. If I can change out a header in 3 hours with a dual SU type setup, you can do a weber in 3 hrs. also. But there has to be some/enough of the stud left to grab onto with vicegrips, and you need a good torch, not a propane bottle, it has to glow orange/red, and then be hit on the side with a hammer. I wish you lived closer. I reuse intake/exhaust gaskets sometimes 3 times, but I don't use silicone/gasket materials on them either, except for the last time. Is there any stud sticking out?

['70 521 L16]

this thread makes me look forward to fridays. that's cool that you got to move it a little bit. sucks about the broken manifold stud though. you should just say fuck it and get a header for it. what's left on your list?

[jon521]

I doubt it can be done in the rig. If I can change out a header in 3 hours with a dual SU type setup, you can do a weber in 3 hrs. also. But there has to be some/enough of the stud left to grab onto with vicegrips, and you need a good torch, not a propane bottle, it has to glow orange/red, and then be hit on the side with a hammer. I wish you lived closer. I reuse intake/exhaust gaskets sometimes 3 times, but I don't use silicone/gasket materials on them either, except for the last time. Is there any stud sticking out?

 

3 hours=a day and a half at school. I guess its gotta come out. There is a small ammount sticking out, I may be able grab it with vise grips. We have a cutting torch there so that will work.

 

@70 521 L16

Haha thanks. Well, to get it back to daily drivable, I need a fan from a 620 and I need to fix this new problem. That's about it.

[wayno]

Just remember, you do not hit the stud with the hammer, you hit the exhaust manifold as close to the stud base as possible after it glows orange/red, you do not want the stud to glow, just the manifold, hit the mani, and the stud should turn out easily.

[crackerjack69]

Hey Jon, I have one of those fans now.

[.sunlover]

shit. as i was using a stud remover on that lower stud on the manifold, i broke the stud. fuckin awesome. so that sets me back a bit. i didnt mess with it too much (too frustrated) but im planning on drilling it out, if i can with it in there, then just putting a nut and a bolt through it....

 

even if the stud's broke flush, the best extraction method is carefully weld a nut onto the broken stud. spray it with water to cool, then simply loosen it out. try this first. Drilling it out means you have to drill exactly in the center to not risk (big risk) ruining your threads to put said bolt back into hole. Method above when done correctly is awesome. start weld from center of stud, circle to nut joining weld perfectly until nut is filled with metal, spray the red out, immediately spin the stud out. Done deal man, good luck.

[jon521]

Just remember, you do not hit the stud with the hammer, you hit the exhaust manifold as close to the stud base as possible after it glows orange/red, you do not want the stud to glow, just the manifold, hit the mani, and the stud should turn out easily.

 

 

just wondering, what does hitting the manifold by the stud do to break it loose?