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Ron1200's '79 KC 620


Ron1200

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Yeah It was cold... Started the day driving the 620 to a family event about 6 miles out Lincoln Creek Rd from Galvin.  For those not familiar with this area, It's one of my favorite motorcycle roads full of curves and whoops.  At Galvin I happened upon two slammed Civics.  We had fun, with for me, lots of 3rd gear full throttle opportunities. Just pointing out - I had no issues with heat.

 

On the way back to the freeway several hours later, while at a stoplight, the engine bay erupted with a cloud of steam dense enough that I couldn't see forward. I limped it to my mom's house which was about a mile away.

 

After getting the 620 home and replacing the lost coolant, I've discovered there are no broken hoses or other obvious leaks.  There is no oil in the coolant.  I see no bubbles at the top of the radiator with the cap off. What I can see is lots of rusty coolant.  Earlier in this build thread (Oct '14), I had similar issues caused by sludge blocking the coolant passages in the L20b.

 

I'm guessing that some leftover sludge dislodged with my multiple 'full throttle' blasts earlier.  I put in a new radiator, water pump, thermostat and hoses within the last two years. (doesn't seem that long ago). So I'm assuming that the parts are good and major flush is in order.

 

My plan of action:

1. Add some Prestone radiator flush, let it circulate for 20 mins and then set overnight.

2. Remove the hoses and reverse flush the radiator.

3. Remove the thermostat and flush the block.

4. Reattach everything & fill with water and let it circulate for 20 mins, check for leaks and drain.

5. Refill with Dex-cool.

 

Hopefully I'm not dealing with a blown head-gasket.
 

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Hopefully your new cap just released all the pressure. Did the motor ever show as hot? 

It reached the highest section of the normal range on the stock gauge.  But if the sender is not submerged in coolant, how accurate is the gauge?

 

We need to do another Lincoln Creek cruise. We Olympia guys did one couple year back and it was a blast.

I'm down with this :thumbup:

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Cleaned both the radiator and block. I searched the interwebs and found info on using an air compressor to augment the flushing of the cooling system.  It worked very well.

 

REVERSE FLUSH PROCEDURE

"If you have an air compressor available, position an air blow gun between the garden hose and the rag and squeeze the handle on the tool to force compressed air behind the water to give it a high pressure flush.  Please note that the flush water flowing out of the coolant hose will be blasting out like a high pressured fire hose.  Nothing will flush a cooling system better than this method, however be aware that it is very messy and you will probably get wet."

 

I might be dealing with a sketchy thermostat.  While circulating the water & flush mix, I noticed a quick rise in temp and then the thermostat opened and the water temp dropped below normal.  It did this a couple of times.  The large temp swing is not normal.  Typically once up to temp it stays steady.   I'm thinking that I'll replace the thermostat and radiator cap.  Parts arrive Wednesday.

Edited by Ron1200
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

So spent my Sunday fixing the photos in this thread due to the Photobucket F-up. 

 

Will add that I changed out the brake master cylinder and after some initial bleeding issues, all is working well now. I went with this one from Rockauto for $36 (no core needed).

CARDONE SELECT 131839

mFCmS8Z.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Finally got the 720 4x4 springs installed on the back of the 620 this weekend.  The ride is 110% better... No more bouncy-bouncy - Just a well controlled ride. It rides like a car. Even took wifey for a ride and she gave it a thumbs up.  

 

And as a bonus, both sides measure the same the distance from the ground to the bottom of the wheel arch at the center-line of the rear wheel.

 

With mono springs, 3" lowering block and no air in the air-shocks:

  DS  24 7/8"

  PS  24 5/16"

 

With 720 4x4 springs, 3" lowering block and no air in the air-shocks:

  DS  24 5/8" (+3/16")

  PS  24 5/8" (+5/16")

 

Nothing seems to happen on the my 620 without 'issues'... Turns out that one of the 4x4 springs I got from the wrecking yard was tweaked.  I didn't notice this until I removed the shackles.  So took them to Right Way Springs in Tacoma for repair. On their recommendation (I don't know shit about springs) they removed the over-load leaf with the funky weight on the end of it.

 

Re-arched springs (freshly painted) and new bushings

pYnxVMD.jpg

 

Old mono leaf spring

PwOxXOG.jpg

 

New 720 4x4 springs

Tb0x3tt.jpg

 

This thing drives, rides and looks so much better than when I got it.  No hate at the original owner, I bought it with the understanding that it was a 'project'.

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  • 11 months later...

I've been negligent the updates...

 

Brakes:  I finally exorcised the brake vibration.  First I installed new front rotors, but it had minimal effect.  Then Installed new rear brake drums to replace the old drums that I had turned.  That was it.  Whoever turned the drums did a crappy job.  Really!  I had them turned at Cut Rate Auto Parts (CRAP) :)

 

Wheel Bearings:  Decided to replace the front wheel bearings as part of the front rotor replacement.  After inspecting them they were in great shape, so didn't replace 'em.  Popped in new seals and reinstalled them.

 

Tie Rod:  The passenger side tie rod's end play was about .25-inch.  It wasn't to bad where I mostly drive (< 40 MPH).  However it was a chore to keep in my lane at freeway speeds.  After the Tie rod was installed, I took it in for an alignment.  All is good now.  I still need to pull the steering wheel and clock it one spline to realign the wheel to the direction of travel (easy-peasy).

 

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PasgOpV.jpg

 

rqwZ5DV.jpg

 

tmMOEGw.jpg

Edited by Ron1200
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Ron it is good to see you doing maintenace to you 620 king cab.  This tells me two things, first your love of Datsuns is still going strong, and second your truck is still on the road.  This is great!

 

I am getting a vibration when I brake and I an also experiencing brake drag on my 86 720 king cab.  I replaced rear wheel cylinders for the brake drag. This did not help.  Next I will replace shoes and drums.

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I also replaced my Ignition Control Module (Standard Motor Products LX516) - Temporarily with diet coke - Permanently with a new module (read about it here

 

Ted: Yup still around... Hey was that a crack about my weight?  :)

 

Charlie: New drums weren't to pricey. About $18 each from Rockauto.

 

Steve: I made it a while ago out of 1x3 rectangular tube.  JRock's shop did the the powder coating of it and the turn/brake light surrounds in Near Chrome to match.

Wjj3MCm.jpg

Edited by Ron1200
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  • 1 month later...

The drum

On 7/31/2018 at 1:23 PM, Ron1200 said:

I also replaced my Ignition Control Module (Standard Motor Products LX516) - Temporarily with diet coke - Permanently with a new module (read about it here

 

Ted: Yup still around... Hey was that a crack about my weight?  ?

 

Charlie: New drums weren't to pricey. About $18 each from Rockauto.

 

Steve: I made it a while ago out of 1x3 rectangular tube.  JRock's shop did the the powder coating of it and the turn/brake light surrounds in Near Chrome to match.

Wjj3MCm.jpg

The drums and the shoes were Wagner from Rock Auto.  I am trying Centric next.  Who knows maybe the drums were dropped somewhere in there travels.  Remember when you would arc the shoes to the drums.

 

 

Edited by Charlie69
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