weber 32/36 DGEV install help

[Radiant-Designer]

Ok guys, I bought a kit from Weber carbs direct, and of course I have to try installing this on a weekend when their tech support is closed. I read all the I structions first and it seemed straight forward... I got the old carb off, scrapped the old gasket junk off and went to start installing the New one.... Thats where I start running into issues. The instructions say use the long bolts on the aide near the fender and have the short ones on the other side.... well all the studs are the same size. My kit has two plates Abd 3 gaskets, I think I got it figured , if i use some of the flat head Allen bolts and then use the other Allen heads to bolt the other plate to the bottom and then the studs in that one for the carb.

 

Issue is the top plate hits on the engine so the holes don't line up.

 

The directions don't even mention two plates, so I dobt know if they sent the wrong one or what.

 

Has anybody don't this that has run into this? Did you have one plate or two?

[Sealik]

Assuming your engine is a L20B.

Like the Z22...the L20B takes 2 adapter plates to mount the Weber....Z24 has 1 plate.

L20B intake....

 

 

Note... PCV valve is not in it's correct position

 

And use loctite on all 8 studs/bolts

[banzai510(hainz)]

I seen a number of different carb adapter set ups.

Youll figure this out.

[Radiant-Designer]

Ok yeah that's how I have it, but the top plate won't go into place becuase its hitting on the passangers side.

[Sealik]

Ok yeah that's how I have it, but the top plate won't go into place becuase its hitting on the passangers side.

 

 

Hitting what on the passenger side?

[datsunaholic]

I think you need to take pictures. There's no way the plates can hit the valve cover, it's too far away. Unless you DON'T have an L-series engine in there.

[Radiant-Designer]

Im trying to upload some now to my Google docs account so I can post them, be up soon

[Radiant-Designer]

Wtf, it says I'm not allowed to use that image extention... It's a jpg... Here you can see how they don't line up

 

http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k495/radiant-designer/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0755.jpg

 

And here you can see where it hits.

http://m1112.photobucket.com/albums/k495/radiant-designer/Mobile%20Uploads/?action=view&current=IMAG0754.jpg

[datsunaholic]

A couple good whacks with a medium sledge should bend that air injection tube out of the way. Most folks don't have that problem because usually they strip the air injection tubes off the engine.

[Radiant-Designer]

Ok, got that done, most of everything mounted now just trying to figure out all the vaccuume lines! I took the when valve off and used the blocking plate included, becuase mine was originally a California truck I had another air recirulator and I disconnected that too, I'm hoping there is a check valve in the line it went too, but ill probably plug it just in case.

 

Still have so many lines, trying to figure out which ones I attach where and which get eliminated.

[Radiant-Designer]

So you can just strip the air injection tubes off?? Do you need to replace them or plug them?

[datsunaholic]

You need to plug them. Otherwise you'll have 4 holes in the exhaust manifold on top of the engine.

[Radiant-Designer]

Wow there are a lots of vacuum lines! Are these really all supposed to be capped off? The purge for the charcoal canister, the ported vacuum switch, I'm not even sure exactly where some of these go... There are two together under the large one that went to the air injection gallery pipe, and two more 90 degrees to the left (drivers side since I'm facing the front of the truck now) of the carb behind

the egr valve.

[Radiant-Designer]

http://m1112.photobucket.com/albums/k495/radiant-designer/Mobile%20Uploads/?action=view&current=IMAG0760.jpg

 

http://m1112.photobucket.com/albums/k495/radiant-designer/Mobile%20Uploads/?action=view&current=IMAG0759.jpg

 

http://m1112.photobucket.com/albums/k495/radiant-designer/Mobile%20Uploads/?action=view&current=IMAG0761.jpg

 

http://m1112.photobucket.com/albums/k495/radiant-designer/Mobile%20Uploads/?action=view&current=IMAG0756.jpg

 

http://m1112.photobucket.com/albums/k495/radiant-designer/Mobile%20Uploads/?action=view&current=IMAG0757.jpg

 

http://m1112.photobucket.com/albums/k495/radiant-designer/Mobile%20Uploads/?action=view&current=IMAG0758.jpg

[justin 620]

De-smog it, there's plenty of threads and info to do it too. It'll clean up under the hood, and make it much easier to work on :cool:

[Radiant-Designer]

Yeah, I took out the egr valve and blocked it, along with all the California air pumps and such, but as you can still see from the pics there is a lot of places where those hoses all went that are still there, I plugged what I could with what I have temperarily to see how it ran (golf tees, and a spark plug stuck in the hoses) and it seems to be running rich and idling pretty high.

 

I'll try to find a walkthrough on desmogging and see if I am missing anything.

[Radiant-Designer]

While I'm sitting here at work waiting for the RAID onbour server to initialize I was just thinking, I wonder what the fuel pressure is, I know the Webers like it under 3.5 psi, and I think I remember reading since I no longer have a return fuel line from the carb that it should be like 2 psi.

[I'm BLUE]

2.5-3.5lbs of fuel pressure should be ok :)

 

How high does it idle ?

 

Weber Tuning Guide ---> http://community.ratsun.net/topic/6117-weber-tuning-guide/

[Radiant-Designer]

It's idling a bit high, I'm not sure the psi right now, I may throw a regulator on it just to see if it helps...

[Radiant-Designer]

thank you all for the help and input. I drove her to work today!

 

So if anyone searches this int he future with any of the issues i had let me try to save you some aggrevation.....

 

 

the instructions that come with are too universal... pretty much the only hoses that go to the carb are:

1)fuel

2) PVC from the valve cover to air filter

3) Vacuume line from the distributor (its t-ed onto the charcole canister too) to the vac port on the carb (it faces towards the valve cover)

 

EVERYTHING ELSE IS CAPPED OFF! I ended up taking out the anit-backfire valve, the air pump, the octopus looking hoses, the EGR valve, and anything else that was no longer connected and then getting plugs in everything. I thought that the check valve ont he air gallery rail would have stopped it but I had to plug that too as there was a leak there.

 

Also in the directions they talk about 2 long studs and 2 short studs, thye are the same, and for this engine its 2 adaptor plates and not just one. and in the end of the instructions it tells you to connect the float bowl vent tube.... I looked for an hour before figuring it must just be something that is a "universal instructions" error. I did note a few places that siad the webers need to have low PSI on the fuel so I put a fuel regulator and a gauge just to be sure.

 

Again, thanks to everyone who helped or even jsut posted some kind of encouragment!

[motavated]

I think the best way with that manifold is to not try and take off the bolts. If you do try to take them off. There is a chance that the new plugs will leak. It is probably best that you just weld them shut.

[psymansays]

I'm half-way through installing this carb kit on my '72 620. I figured out the issue in the instructions already, as pertaining to the "2 long studs". I just need to tighten down my adapter plates and then route the several vacuum lines. Can you take a picture of your finished engine compartment to show where the remaining vacuum lines will go? My main point of confusion last night was the set of lines that run to something just below the master brake cylinder. What is it that those lines hook up to?