My sr20det Datsun 510 build saga...
Posted 31 August 2011 - 08:58 AM
@]2eDeYe - That was exactly what I needed to know. The journals are all clean and the crank has just been sitting in the box. I will get it prepped for another week or so before I reassemble.
@johnbureezu - The Cosworth logo was a pretty cool little bonus I thought too and most of the drift S13 builders I spoke to have pointed me in that direction. They have some of the most experience with these engines because they use to pop them into their S13 Silvias before the big $ and big HP sponsorships came through. I started researching management and tuning. It is pretty intimidating to say the least. Standalone seemed like a waste considering my application. Greddy has E-Manage, but I have heard some horror stories there. Whatever I ultimately decide, it is going to be a piggyback system that I can later tweak via a laptop. How do you like the 4828? What HP are you working with and how is the low end throttle response??
@DISLEXICDIME - I hope so man, I hope so. I feel so far away from that time that it makes me sad.
@ariascarlos1990 - Sorry my friend, going 4 door, but I love me some goon.
@dennis - Thank you for all of the help man. Cosworth is clearly unanimous it seems.
Received my Blow-By Assembly Pipe for the block. It was one of two left in the US according to my dealership, but the size of this tube isn't the same as as the JDM versiong, but I seriously doubt that this will be a problem.
Here is a side-by-side comparison. It looks like the new version is made out of a different material too. Interesting. I wonder if this was a JDM versus USDM thing or just an upgrade.
Here are the two random pipes/tubes that I still need. The FSM does not specifically address these parts and it is a pain in the assets to try and figure out what they are. I guess I can clean the one on the right, but the one on the left I had to destroy to get out of the block.
Also picked up a revised chain guide. My old one wasn't broken, but it just seemed so cheap when compared to the old plastic one. The new metal variant is a lot stronger and tougher feeling.
Here is a comparison shot. Take special note, the old chain side guide uses different bolts, so make sure who ever you get yours from gives you the new hardware too.
Taking pistons, pins, rings, main/rod & thrust bearings, and rocker arms in this week for WPC. Buying cams and engine assembly lube and I shoudl be set to put her together. Still need a top mount tubro manifold, turbo, and thinking about a new OEM timing chain. Then I am moving on to the fuel deliver system and transmission. Need top feed injectors, Walbro 255, oh and a CAR FML!!!! I have to things to complain about:
First, I called GReddy to inquire why they have discontinued a lot of parts for the SR20DET and the reference was that the engine was too old. Not a direct quote, but it was definitely inferred. They are focusing their business on newer engine performance it would seem. Which does nothing but piss me off because I have truly enjoyed my experience learning how to work on an engine and it would not have been possible if it were not for the SR which has been done and documented by the tuner community. What other engine besides an RB can you get so much information on????
- Mattndew76 likes this
Posted 31 August 2011 - 09:01 AM
My daily, the 745 is starting to have some transmission kick, needs new brakes, and has a slight coolant leak. I am beginning to question whether or not I should be picking up a new car to replace her too. Argh!!!! Expenses in the adult world suck.
I am hoping to finish paint preparation on the block this weekend and shoot it with some high-heat engine enamel. Until then I managed to track down the requisite 30mm freeze / core /expansion plugs. I was going to go OEM, but they tried to charge me $3 each at the $tealership. I really haven't had a good reliable dealership experience yet and it is really unfortunate because I am a big buyer, I pay cash, and I am loyal. I digress.
Anyone have any tips for spray painting the block?? I am very nervous about making my clean build look really bad and I have no spray paint experience...
Posted 31 August 2011 - 09:26 AM
Been a while since new parts arrived, but I was glad to see my new dipstick (perverts are allowed to laugh) come in. I inadvertently broke the old one during engine break down. I know, I know, it takes a special guy to screw that one up...
Next I was off to prep the engine block for paint. Dupli-Color Heat Heat Ceramic Engine Enamel in Cast Aluminum for that OEM feel. Since this was my first every experience with spray paint or painting in general I figured I might was well spend as much time in prep as I could... Hard to screw up as badly that way..
Bottom side (he he he!!):
An obligatory shot of my make-shift paint booth. I am clearly no expert lol!!
Coat one on and I am getting the hang of this, definitely not perfect...
Coat two on and I am not great, but not sucking as much...
Engine block left to dry and I figured since I am feeling uber productive, I will takle that upper oil pain.. oops I mean pan
Cleaned and prepped for paint.. yes sir!!! Who is your sr20det daddy????
A shot of her back side (and the innuendo continues...)
Being as anal as I am, I wasn't 100% happy with the quality of my paint work. I couldn't get all the last bits of debris off of the block even after a dip in a whirlpool bath and scrubbing with copper brush. But I did do it all myself and I learned a lot. This will not be a show car, I plan on driving her. I do; however, want to keep this car clean and pretty after all of this hard work... flame away you professional engine painters.. I am open to hearing the good and bad...
Posted 31 August 2011 - 09:40 AM
Posted 31 August 2011 - 09:42 AM
Why did you paint a aluminum block?
they do tarnish quite badly and those sr blocks are porous its super hard to scrub the dirt off them, I spent SEVERAL and by several I mean probably 10-12 hours scrubbing every nook and cranny from my sr block, degreaser, wire brush, aluminum brightener, rinse repeat, over and over and over. I could see how painting it would help with future cleaning . That aluminum stains so easily.
Posted 31 August 2011 - 10:55 AM
Posted 31 August 2011 - 11:15 AM
Such a good segue too... When I went by the machine shop to pick up my block there was a recently worked on SR block that had been painted a gloss black. It looked cool, but what really stood out to me were the new shiny brass freeze plugs. I had always planned on replacing the ones in my block, but was unclear on two important details. First, I was not sure how important or not the work would really be, but I did like the aesthetics. And second, I heard a million and one different ways to get these little bad boys in. There seems to be a pretty even divide as to whether or not you should use sealant or not.
You remember where we last left off??? Here is the intake side still fresh from my DIY paint and partially covered in tape. I removed the tape covering my old freeze plugs. Note how the don't shine like new and are screaming for love and affection...
Let's just be honest with ourselves. I am not a mechanic. If you recall from the start of this thread, I have no idea what I am doing until after I read and read and read some more. To make up for my lack of mechanical precision I chose the liquid gasket route. After some research, I went with Permatex Aviation. $7 for a little added security and comfort in how badly I suck at hammering these in straight is pretty cheap if you ask me.
Smashing one edge and you get it to tilt... YAY!!!!
Out.... oooooh, look at all that coolant residue... interesting... Anyone know if this is a problem and or concern?? Is there a system flush I can do that would help remove some or all of this??
OEM old plug versus new aftermarket plug... Dorman plug kicks OEM's rear on shiny factor...
In this shot you can tell that the OEM is a little thicker with slightly longer side walls.. not sure if this is a problem or not, I'm going to go ahead an assume the answer is no. Mainly because I don't want to have to pull these all out now...
Bang! Bang! Pow! Pow! New plugs in...
Long distance shot....
Flip, time to repeat... 3 this time...
I had been somewhat conflicted as to whether or not I should have done this. Freeze plug problems or leaks are so rare from what I have read. But then this little guy popped out. I knew there was a problem as soon as I tried to flip it in the block. My screwdriver went through it. The rust and corossion was so bad that I am absolutely certain that at some point it woud have leaked. I guess it really was worth it in the end huh?
I spent the rest of the afternoon getting the parts together to send off to WPC this week and cleaning the garage which had become quite dirty since paint and the brake job. I bought some used GReddy S13 sr20det cam gears last week. One I have those and a dipstick tube, I should be ready for assembly.
Posted 31 August 2011 - 11:44 AM
Posted 31 August 2011 - 03:01 PM
I am a huge fan of painting the engine to look nice. Really helps so much in the long run! Check out my build thread (77 longbox) and check out my paint work. I use basecoat/clearcoat auto paint on every block I have painted and it has turned out wonderful.....Funny thing at a car show last weekend I saw a 420A turbo block I had painted 5 years ago and it still looked amazing!!
Keep up the good work!
HRH, on 04 June 2012 - 08:37 PM, said:
Okay, sounds good. I only had one guy insist on pumping my ass in Oregon. That was along the Columbia river. The rest of the time, I just hopped out and started pumping, no one said shit.
New England is strange. Every thing good is "Wicked". Nice cars are "mint". A truck canopy is a "cap" and a tonneau is a "lid". Losing your khakis has a whole different meaning.
Posted 06 September 2011 - 07:08 PM
Am I being a little too anal and slow with posting? I assumed that the mass amount of photos would help me later putting it all back together and I hoped that it may help someone else someday... Only a few more and we are up to date...
I don't understand why there is such a massive amount of oil/dirt sludge here... but my OCD will not let it stand.... ugh, F my life...
Not perfect, but this is where I wrapped for the night...
Oh and more GReddy goodies arrived, Rocker Arm Stoppers (RAS). Always use protection kids...
Z32 MAF on the way, OEM JDM Nissan gasket kit and DVD from drifting dot com already paid for and en route. I am planning on working the intake and exhaust sides, but am 50/50 on internal work. I ordered the DVD to gauge whether or not I think I can or should do it. The internals don't look that bad and I am only looking for approximately 400hp. I know I will need an AFC unit. Do I go with GReddy E-Manage or a standalone like the APEXi Neo??? There is so much to learn and know, I have a whole new respect for engine builders, this is complicated.
the pic of the sludge removal reminds me of myself. i dont even like soot building up in my exhaust ports let alone some stray oil around typically oily parts. all my gunk has been on there for 35 years as well so its a blast.
1977 Datsun B210 "Blueberry" 4-door Deluxe sedan A14, AT, A/C (in progress)
1976 Datsun B210 "Debbie, Lemon Drop, The Lemon, The Pee Stain, The Rust Bucket" 2-door Deluxe sedan A14, AT, ex-A/C SOLD 1/7/2014
1994 Jeep Cherokee "Heep, Eep, Janice" 4.0l I-6 5-speed 2-door 2WD
1997 Ford Ranger "Danger Ranger, The NEW Rust Bucket" 3.Slow V6 AT ext. cab, short bed
Posted 11 September 2011 - 07:49 PM
Posted 12 September 2011 - 11:05 AM
@josh_t - Yeah, I don't like anything being dirty or out of place. The OCD in me is going to have a difficult time adjusting to this engine running, being driven frequently and actually having some dirt around.
@wana510 - Nice setup!! Are you running the .64 or .85 AR?? I want to stick with the T25 flanges and go .64, but the local shop guys have been trying to get me to go with the bigger mouth.
@darcToken - Thanks man, that is why I have fallen in love with this forum. People seem to genuinely want to help and be interested. The interaction and wealth of information really are priceless to a guy like me who is still trying to learn.
Flickr has been blocked by the office, so photos to come soon. Picked up discontinued GReddy cam sprockets, new oil dipstick tube/guide, and a 87mm bore .04 Cometic head gasket. I have a standard bore engine at 86mm, but this seems to be the size that everyone suggested after researching for a while.
As soon as I pick my parts up from WPC treatment, I am ready to reassemble!!!! WOW!! I almost can't believe I said that. But I do need a turbo and a top mount manifold and tubing etc. Anyone have any recommendations??? Also my biggest fear is going to be running the tubes on the engine. Any good points of reference??
Posted 13 September 2011 - 08:30 AM
Shot of my dirty head before prep and copper wire brush scrub... (You can also see the painted block on the stand behind
Exhaust side.... you can see how dirty it is here...
The big booty shot....
And finally the nasty intake side... obviously you can begin to see why I found it necessary to paint the head and block... this simply will not due...
And the paint prep begins...
Posted 13 September 2011 - 08:56 AM
Discontinued GReddy cam gears/sprockets... these were not easy to find....
Cometic head gasket.. 87mm @ 0.40 thickness.. Is it that big of a deal if my machine shop guy said to go OEM factory thickness because he barely took anything off on the deck job??
And last, but not least, my new dipstick guide/tube. Because I am a dipstick and screwed mine up for no reason other than sheer frustration trying to remove it.. Argh!!
Wish me luck kids... moving on to the painting of the block and the polishing of the aluminum bits while I let my wallet recover for a while.... Has anyone else noted how much polishing aluminum is likely to cause cancer or is it just me??