My sr20det Datsun 510 build saga...

[dennis]

no offense to baz or datsport but you can do it much cheaper than the datsport kit and not have to run s12 struts. futofab will flip your crossmember for 125. (or 150.) and you can run 620 motor mounts or poly mckinney motorsports mounts. vg30.com sells the tranny mount for the sr conversion. you will still need to figure out your fuel and cooling systems but they have all been done so many times on here they can vary from inexpensive to plain buck wild. I am anal as well. check out my build thread. lately i am polishing a log of aluminum parts.

[RedBanner]

have you checked out mazdat.com? they have xmembers or whole install kits, ive never seen one in person bt there was a member raving about them and i have to say the kits look good.. in pics atleast

[SSSEXXX]

@dennis & RedBanner - I will check out both. Thank you guys for the input. This kind of feedback is exactly why I finally decided to join and post. Oh and dennis, I have already read your build thread twice. You are mechanically way ahead of me my friend. When I saw your blusish titanium VHT, I was wishing I had gone with that color instead of the OEM looking cast aluminum color I chose. Pictures coming of that BTW. The cooling system I am getting more and more comfortable with, but the fuel system scares the hell out of me. The idea of running fuel lines, fittings, fuel tanks v. gas tanks, all makes me want to cringe. I am a complete rookie obviously. I know I will get over it. I just wish I could find a good car in SoCal that wasn't $4k+. I spent way more than I had planned on the engine build up and I would like to keep the costs down the rest of the way. How do flipped crossmembers hold up over time? I hear what you are saying with the datsport solution, it is super expensive.

 

Not a massive update, but picked up my ARP main and head studs today...

 

Also found a machine shop that is a little bit far away, but seems to be up to the challenge. Decided not to bore the head out and stick with the 86mm pistons. If the walls ain't broke, why fix them??? This way if there is ever any damage to a cylinder I can go 86.5mm and/or 87mm. Thinking 9:1 Compression Ratio. I'm 100% postive about decking the head and the 3 angle valve job. Also picked up a metric feeler guage for the rings today too...

 

After a long week of research and not a whole lot of progress to report, I am picking up some BC springs and titanium retainers today too if I have enough time to swing by. Also got my front cover / oil pump in the mail...

[SSSEXXX]

Uh oh!!!! Look what daddy did at lunch today... Brian Crower valve springs and titanium retainers....

 

Dropped off the engine block, head, and crank off at the machine shop today. Everything getting a hot tank. Nitrating the crank, balance, hone block, deck job, then having the BC springs and titanium retainers fitted after a valve job. Also have OEM valve seats that came with my OEM gasket kit. I ordered CP Pistons (86mm standard bore @ 8.5:1 compression), Eagle Rods, and have lined up the WPC treatment which really wasn't as expensive as people made it out to be. That should all be arriving this week. Meanwhile I dropped off the engine block and head to the machine shop. Micropolishing and balancing the crank, then cryo-treating it. Everything will get hot tanked and cleaned up, then decking the head and block. SUPER EXCITED!! I am also getting my BC springs and retainers and the OEM valve stems put on the head while it is there.

 

Shot of my head on the floor of the 7 during transport lol. Made my v8 a 12 cylinder for a little bit...

 

Oh, and I also managed to pick up some ACL main, rod and thrust bearings which of course will get the WPC treatment with the rocker arms, piston head, and rings...

[SSSEXXX]

Back again kids!! Still waiting on the engine to be done over at the machine shop, but did manage to finally get my Eagle "H" Beam rods and CP 8.5:1 86mm (Standard Bore) pistons in....

 

 

[SSSEXXX]

ARG!!!! Frustration beyond belief. Let me preface this post by saying that I NEED YOUR HELP. As this is my first time working on an engine, much less doing this degree of work, I don't know what to look for. I do trust the shop that I am working with, they did take their time, but that aside they have a great reputation. The head was not done yet; however, so my BC springs, retainers, and new seats were not on yet. I have to go back today and pick it up. Trunk-o-goodies. Shiny, clean block. My pistons, rods, crank, upper oil pan, gurdle...

 

Close up of the block, back home where she belongs...

 

So, I am not going to re-assemble her for a while. I need the WPC stuff done and am still in need of a few other misc. parts. Is there anything I should do to protect it while it is sitting in my garage????

 

 

 

The crank was supposed to be "cryo-treated" to harden it up and protect it from future damage should I put this thing back together wrong. I can't tell a difference, should I be able to?? My guy at the shop is a bit forgetful and I don't think he wouldn't do it out of malice, just that he may have missed it. Alos, there is a tiny bit of what looks like surface rust on the crank now. How do I get this off before I put it back together??? Is it okay to store like this??

[SSSEXXX]

Picked up the head yesterday. BC springs and retainers installed and ready to go. Best head I've gotten in a long time (sorry, had to do it).

 

Close up shot of the retainers...

 

Side view, intake side...

 

Full frontal...

 

So nice to have her all back in one place. For now anyway, I am sending stuff out this week for WPC. It is like my engine and I have a long distance relationship.

 

The rest of my box-o-goodies...

 

Let me tell you that it is super refreshing to now be working with a clean engine. It almost weirds me out a little bit. It makes just handling things so, so, SO much easier. It is also a lot easier to see what it is that you are doing. There are some dimples inside the head I noticed, not sure what those are, but I don't think they are going to be a problem.

 

I am still gathering some miscellaneous parts, but I think the only parts I need to really buy are new cam sprockets, injectors, and the turbo. I did have some questions about the injectors. I have a top feed fuel rail, I need top feed injectors right?? I have been told the bigger, the better, I was thinking 555+ cc. Can someone recommend some good sprockets??? GReddy doesn't make them anymore I believe.

 

My guy at the shop said that they take off as little material as they can from the block and the head when they deck it. He said a standard head gasket would be fine. Is that a good move?? I have the OEM JDM SR20DET gasket new that came with my gasket kit.

 

Oh, and here is a list of what I had done to the engine while it was gone and the prices that I paid. I have no idea what is standard and I know that some people believe that you shouldn't share this kind of stuff, but if it helps just one person I am good with it.

 

Pressure Wash Block - $40.00

Hone Bock to Fit Supplied Pistons - $140.00

Deck Block - $90.00

Valve Job - $240.00

Resurface Head $50.00

Balance Rotating Assembly - $150.00

Cryo 4-Cylinder Crankshaft - $80.00 TOTAL - $790.00

[DISLEXICDIME]

You mean you had the sleeves bored right? Not the block. And no a stock head gasket will not usualy hold for too long if you turn the boost up with a bigger turbo. What turbo you going for? You might want to go for a ride in a sr dime before you go adding to much more to this engine. Mine is a hand full at 8.5 pounds with a t25

[SSSEXXX]

Actually, I didn't bore the sleeves (that was what i meant). I stayed with the OEM 86mm bore. It really didn't make sense to do it with the HP I am shooting for and the drive-ability. I am going with either a Disco Potato or a GT2871R with a .64 housing that will fit the OEM T25 flanges. I was shooting for a lot of power. Was hoping for 300-325 at this point with quick throttle response. So the bigger T3 setups just seemed silly. I would love to ride in an SR dime, but I don't know anyone that owns one. I think the engine has been over-worked at this point, but that was because I wanted to learn more than anything. Recommendations on a good head gasket?

[]2eDeYe]

The crank was supposed to be "cryo-treated" to harden it up and protect it from future damage should I put this thing back together wrong. I can't tell a difference, should I be able to?? My guy at the shop is a bit forgetful and I don't think he wouldn't do it out of malice, just that he may have missed it. Alos, there is a tiny bit of what looks like surface rust on the crank now. How do I get this off before I put it back together??? Is it okay to store like this??

 

You probably won't be able to tell really with the cyro.

 

As long as there is no rust on the journels, where the rod and main bearings ride, it's ready to bolt in. Any flash rusting on the cast areas will be negated the first time oil hits them.

 

For storage: Light oil coating (penetrating oil) and plastic bags for temporary. Heavy grease (wheel bearing) and bags for long term.

[SSS510]

Recommendations on a good head gasket?

 

A NISMO or TOMEI Not cheap but it's quality

[johnbureezu]

The cosworth head gasket is the best for the money. It's what I ended up with and you can see the cool cosworth logo when it's installed :P. I like your setup so far, it's kinda like my own uber overkill build. A stock SR in a dime is more than enough, but eh. I was gonna go with either a disco potato or 2871, but ended up with a precision 4828. Basically a disco potato with a billet compressor wheel. What engine management are you going to use? That's where the money is...tuning tuning and more tuning. lol

 

Awesome work so far man.

[DISLEXICDIME]

I havent decided on the tomei or the cosworth . I remember the first time i drove my sr car the power was so awsome and scarry at the same time . Your going to shit bricks the first time with a grin ear to ear

[ariascarlos1990]

OMG this build just made my day!

 

Please get a 510 wagon and make it a sleeper.

 

Thanks bye. :P

[dennis]

x3 cosworth

[SSSEXXX]

Thank you all for the input and the responses. This forum has by far been the most helpful and responsive one I have tried. All the research I had done was leading me to the Cosworth Head Gasket too, so I am glad to hear that many of you felt the same way about it. I need to decide on the right size next.

 

@]2eDeYe - That was exactly what I needed to know. The journals are all clean and the crank has just been sitting in the box. I will get it prepped for another week or so before I reassemble.

 

@johnbureezu - The Cosworth logo was a pretty cool little bonus I thought too and most of the drift S13 builders I spoke to have pointed me in that direction. They have some of the most experience with these engines because they use to pop them into their S13 Silvias before the big $ and big HP sponsorships came through. I started researching management and tuning. It is pretty intimidating to say the least. Standalone seemed like a waste considering my application. Greddy has E-Manage, but I have heard some horror stories there. Whatever I ultimately decide, it is going to be a piggyback system that I can later tweak via a laptop. How do you like the 4828? What HP are you working with and how is the low end throttle response??

 

@DISLEXICDIME - I hope so man, I hope so. I feel so far away from that time that it makes me sad.

 

@ariascarlos1990 - Sorry my friend, going 4 door, but I love me some goon.

 

@dennis - Thank you for all of the help man. Cosworth is clearly unanimous it seems.

 

Received my Blow-By Assembly Pipe for the block. It was one of two left in the US according to my dealership, but the size of this tube isn't the same as as the JDM versiong, but I seriously doubt that this will be a problem.

 

Here is a side-by-side comparison. It looks like the new version is made out of a different material too. Interesting. I wonder if this was a JDM versus USDM thing or just an upgrade.

 

Here are the two random pipes/tubes that I still need. The FSM does not specifically address these parts and it is a pain in the assets to try and figure out what they are. I guess I can clean the one on the right, but the one on the left I had to destroy to get out of the block.

 

Also picked up a revised chain guide. My old one wasn't broken, but it just seemed so cheap when compared to the old plastic one. The new metal variant is a lot stronger and tougher feeling.

 

Here is a comparison shot. Take special note, the old chain side guide uses different bolts, so make sure who ever you get yours from gives you the new hardware too.

 

Taking pistons, pins, rings, main/rod & thrust bearings, and rocker arms in this week for WPC. Buying cams and engine assembly lube and I shoudl be set to put her together. Still need a top mount tubro manifold, turbo, and thinking about a new OEM timing chain. Then I am moving on to the fuel deliver system and transmission. Need top feed injectors, Walbro 255, oh and a CAR FML!!!! I have to things to complain about:

 

First, I called GReddy to inquire why they have discontinued a lot of parts for the SR20DET and the reference was that the engine was too old. Not a direct quote, but it was definitely inferred. They are focusing their business on newer engine performance it would seem. Which does nothing but piss me off because I have truly enjoyed my experience learning how to work on an engine and it would not have been possible if it were not for the SR which has been done and documented by the tuner community. What other engine besides an RB can you get so much information on????

[SSSEXXX]

Hey everyone!!! Been doing a lot of searching for a 4 door Nickle Dime for the engine and trying to get a body to fit this monster in to. That combined with two practices a day and running the companies doesn't leave a lot of time for working on the engine.

 

My daily, the 745 is starting to have some transmission kick, needs new brakes, and has a slight coolant leak. I am beginning to question whether or not I should be picking up a new car to replace her too. Argh!!!! Expenses in the adult world suck.

 

I am hoping to finish paint preparation on the block this weekend and shoot it with some high-heat engine enamel. Until then I managed to track down the requisite 30mm freeze / core /expansion plugs. I was going to go OEM, but they tried to charge me $3 each at the $tealership. I really haven't had a good reliable dealership experience yet and it is really unfortunate because I am a big buyer, I pay cash, and I am loyal. I digress.

 

 

Anyone have any tips for spray painting the block?? I am very nervous about making my clean build look really bad and I have no spray paint experience...

[SSSEXXX]

Yo!!! What it do??? or How have you been?? for those of you without the Hip-Hop music influence. I have had an interesting couple of weeks since we last spoke. I went to BMW to get a quote for new brakes and rotors on the 745i, the $tealership quoted me a stupid dollar amount and I went ahead and did it myself. All OEM parts and 2 hours later I was done for a much more acceptable $175 price tag. Suck it BMW!!! Next weekend I am going to get her up on jack stands again and find that pesky coolant leak I suspect is from the $tealership not putting a hose back on right after a radiator fluid flush. Arg!!!!

 

Been a while since new parts arrived, but I was glad to see my new dipstick (perverts are allowed to laugh) come in. I inadvertently broke the old one during engine break down. I know, I know, it takes a special guy to screw that one up...

 

Next I was off to prep the engine block for paint. Dupli-Color Heat Heat Ceramic Engine Enamel in Cast Aluminum for that OEM feel. Since this was my first every experience with spray paint or painting in general I figured I might was well spend as much time in prep as I could... Hard to screw up as badly that way..

 

Exhaust side:

 

Front side:

 

Top side:

 

Intake side:

 

Bottom side (he he he!!):

 

An obligatory shot of my make-shift paint booth. I am clearly no expert lol!!

 

Coat one on and I am getting the hang of this, definitely not perfect...

 

Coat two on and I am not great, but not sucking as much...

 

Engine block left to dry and I figured since I am feeling uber productive, I will takle that upper oil pain.. oops I mean pan

 

Cleaned and prepped for paint.. yes sir!!! Who is your sr20det daddy????

 

A shot of her back side (and the innuendo continues...)

 

Being as anal as I am, I wasn't 100% happy with the quality of my paint work. I couldn't get all the last bits of debris off of the block even after a dip in a whirlpool bath and scrubbing with copper brush. But I did do it all myself and I learned a lot. This will not be a show car, I plan on driving her. I do; however, want to keep this car clean and pretty after all of this hard work... flame away you professional engine painters.. I am open to hearing the good and bad...

[DISLEXICDIME]

Why did you paint a aluminum block?

[SSSEXXX]

Just wanted it to look pretty really. I dipped it and had it cleaned at the machine shop, but the head and the block came out two different shades of dirty looking. I decided I would scrub them with brass brushes, but that didn't help too much. Ultimately wound up spraying them to get the aesthetics I was hoping for. Is it bad to paint them? I have seen a lot of blocks done this way too. Let me know your thoughts my friend.

[SR20-620]

Why did you paint a aluminum block?

 

they do tarnish quite badly and those sr blocks are porous its super hard to scrub the dirt off them, I spent SEVERAL and by several I mean probably 10-12 hours scrubbing every nook and cranny from my sr block, degreaser, wire brush, aluminum brightener, rinse repeat, over and over and over. I could see how painting it would help with future cleaning . That aluminum stains so easily.

 

 

 

[ariascarlos1990]

painting it will help with cleaning it later also.

[jdmdime]

I bought a disco potato for my Sr build. It's the 86 ar though. I'm expecting 300 whp. I did nismo 555cc side feed injectors, greedy intake manifold, greedy pulleys, top mount tubular exhaust manifold, z32 maf fidanza flywheel and exedy stage 2 clutch. I also kinda overkilled my Sr for such a light car as a 510. Can't wait to see the finished outcome.

[SSSEXXX]

When I went to the machine shop to pick up my block and head I saw a few CA blocks that had been either painted or powder coated black. They looked pretty awesome. Made me wish I didn't have the urge to do it all myself and to learn.

 

Such a good segue too... When I went by the machine shop to pick up my block there was a recently worked on SR block that had been painted a gloss black. It looked cool, but what really stood out to me were the new shiny brass freeze plugs. I had always planned on replacing the ones in my block, but was unclear on two important details. First, I was not sure how important or not the work would really be, but I did like the aesthetics. And second, I heard a million and one different ways to get these little bad boys in. There seems to be a pretty even divide as to whether or not you should use sealant or not.

 

You remember where we last left off??? Here is the intake side still fresh from my DIY paint and partially covered in tape. I removed the tape covering my old freeze plugs. Note how the don't shine like new and are screaming for love and affection...

 

Close up...

 

Let's just be honest with ourselves. I am not a mechanic. If you recall from the start of this thread, I have no idea what I am doing until after I read and read and read some more. To make up for my lack of mechanical precision I chose the liquid gasket route. After some research, I went with Permatex Aviation. $7 for a little added security and comfort in how badly I suck at hammering these in straight is pretty cheap if you ask me.

 

Smashing one edge and you get it to tilt... YAY!!!!

 

Out.... oooooh, look at all that coolant residue... interesting... Anyone know if this is a problem and or concern?? Is there a system flush I can do that would help remove some or all of this??

 

OEM old plug versus new aftermarket plug... Dorman plug kicks OEM's rear on shiny factor...

 

In this shot you can tell that the OEM is a little thicker with slightly longer side walls.. not sure if this is a problem or not, I'm going to go ahead an assume the answer is no. Mainly because I don't want to have to pull these all out now...

 

Bang! Bang! Pow! Pow! New plugs in...

 

Long distance shot....

 

Flip, time to repeat... 3 this time...

 

I had been somewhat conflicted as to whether or not I should have done this. Freeze plug problems or leaks are so rare from what I have read. But then this little guy popped out. I knew there was a problem as soon as I tried to flip it in the block. My screwdriver went through it. The rust and corossion was so bad that I am absolutely certain that at some point it woud have leaked. I guess it really was worth it in the end huh?

 

All done!!!!!

 

Up close...

 

I spent the rest of the afternoon getting the parts together to send off to WPC this week and cleaning the garage which had become quite dirty since paint and the brake job. I bought some used GReddy S13 sr20det cam gears last week. One I have those and a dipstick tube, I should be ready for assembly.

[DISLEXICDIME]

Looks good . A littke trick I learnd is when you pressure wash your engine do it where there is air. Get a air chuck put in ear plugs and blow all the water off of the aluminum you will be amazed how much cleaner it will look.