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My sr20det Datsun 510 build saga...


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#21 RedBanner

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 11:25 AM

well done. i mean keep it up man your better han half of us already.

i just wanted to pop in and address the "milage" on your motor, you your self said its supposed to have 45,000 or close to it but who know and the answer..... no one.... what they do on import motors is take the average mile per year the average japaniese driver would put on there car and multiply that number times the age of the vehicle they say the motor was pulled from. so in fact it could be way more or way less.... id have to say way more just to feel safe. but you seem to be pumpin the life back in it fast good luck on the dime search we'll keep an eye out for one
I LIKE THE OLD CLASSIFIEDS BETTER........​

#22 SSSEXXX

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 11:32 AM

Taking the gurdle off was not a problem. Breaker bar and some spinach and you are good to go kids...
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A few shots of engine at this point...
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Eight bolts later I had the pistons out and was feeling pretty accomplished. I was really, really nervous about doing damage here. I didn't want to scratch or bang anything and you need a little bit of pushing to get those pistons to drop. I used a plastic oil pan filled with shop towels on my shop chair to catch each piston...
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All that was left was the crank and to get the casings that hold in out was going to need a bit of ingenuity...
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I didn't want to drop the cash on the proper tool that bolts in to the holes in the center of each casing, so I found another way. I used one of the longer aluminum oil pan bolts screwed through a larger 1/2" socket and it worked like magic...
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All out and ready to tackle that crank...
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Here is two different looks of the crank before she get pulled out...
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My 1968 4 door sr20det (s13) build thread...

 

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#23 dennis

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 11:45 AM

The oil leaking where the oil filter block adapter is normal. You can either run a external filter block adapter or use some Grey Permatex and reinstall it. When replacing your water pump you should have went with an S14, this is considered an upgrade. You can ditch the black mounting plates on the block for the A/C and Power steering pumps if you havent already or if you are running A/C and PS.

The S13 Redtop you picked up is a new engine in the series since you have the fins on the head. The fins show up on newer S13 Redtops and all blacktops.

Lets see some pics of the 510. Also what are your plans for mounting the engine?

#24 SSSEXXX

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 11:53 AM

@RedBanner - Now that makes more sense then my engine having 45k miles on it. I don't doubt you at all given what I have seen of other engines while doing my research. It is really scary what people wind up with. Literally like a crap shoot. That was what ultimately led me to deciding to tackle the internals and everything now instead of waiting until it was in the car and wired up. I am just super patient and have been reading a lot about it. I have been lurking on Ratsun for a long while trying to learn about suspensions, wiring, and all the tips and tricks before I buy a car. I appreciate the support and hope I can find a great vehicle soon, I am going to be reassembling the engine in the next couple of weeks and I really need to get started on body work, paint, etc. Otherwise this thing will be sitting in my garage waiting for a home...

Finally lifted the crank out. It was really surprising how heavy this thing is. When you think about it, it makes sense. The block is all aluminum, pistons are pretty light, so it should be obvious that a lot of the engine's weight is center at the crank. Yet, I was still surprised...
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The only thing left on the block, other than some misc. bolts and freeze plugs, were the oil squirters and the oil filter and plate...
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So, naturally it was time to get that oil filter and plate off of my engine...
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So exciting to be this closed to transitioning on to the next phase of the engine build. I have stayed committed to my goal of learning and doing it right, but it has been a slow and tedious process. I really need a good recommendation for a trustworthy machine shop and a really good powder coater.

My 1968 4 door sr20det (s13) build thread...

 

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#25 SSSEXXX

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 12:18 PM

@dennis - Wow!! Thank you for the info. I am pretty sure I am going to relocate the oil filter to somewhere off of the block. There are a few different versions I am looking at. I did have a question about the Permatex. I noticed that the factory used Grey Permatex here too, but people are telling me that the red stuff that came with my OEM gasket kit will be fine. Any thoughts??

Yup, I will be running A/C and I do not even know if I can run the power steering with the Datsun 510 yet. Still more research needed here before I conclude. I need to see a wiring diagram and read for a long time.

I am glad it is a newer redtop and after all this time, you sir are the first to point that out. So, thank you again. Very helpful stuff.

Still looking for a vehicle. In case it wasn't obvious, I am a bit anal retentive and have seen a lot of cars that I thought needed work that was way beyond my skill level. I am doing all of this for the absolute first time. As far as mounting goes, I have done my research there. People flip the cross-member and have much more mechanical skill than I do. I am not capable of welding. So it was either learn or buy a pre-fab kit. Datsport out of Australia is my lead pick right now. I can use the OEM S13 motor mounts with it and they have some suspension pieces that go well with it.

More pics coming soon. About 50 left before we catch up...

My 1968 4 door sr20det (s13) build thread...

 

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#26 dennis

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 12:59 PM

no offense to baz or datsport but you can do it much cheaper than the datsport kit and not have to run s12 struts. futofab will flip your crossmember for 125. (or 150.) and you can run 620 motor mounts or poly mckinney motorsports mounts. vg30.com sells the tranny mount for the sr conversion. you will still need to figure out your fuel and cooling systems but they have all been done so many times on here they can vary from inexpensive to plain buck wild. I am anal as well. check out my build thread. lately i am polishing a log of aluminum parts.

#27 RedBanner

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 01:23 PM

have you checked out mazdat.com? they have xmembers or whole install kits, ive never seen one in person bt there was a member raving about them and i have to say the kits look good.. in pics atleast
I LIKE THE OLD CLASSIFIEDS BETTER........​

#28 SSSEXXX

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 02:22 PM

@dennis & RedBanner - I will check out both. Thank you guys for the input. This kind of feedback is exactly why I finally decided to join and post. Oh and dennis, I have already read your build thread twice. You are mechanically way ahead of me my friend. When I saw your blusish titanium VHT, I was wishing I had gone with that color instead of the OEM looking cast aluminum color I chose. Pictures coming of that BTW. The cooling system I am getting more and more comfortable with, but the fuel system scares the hell out of me. The idea of running fuel lines, fittings, fuel tanks v. gas tanks, all makes me want to cringe. I am a complete rookie obviously. I know I will get over it. I just wish I could find a good car in SoCal that wasn't $4k+. I spent way more than I had planned on the engine build up and I would like to keep the costs down the rest of the way. How do flipped crossmembers hold up over time? I hear what you are saying with the datsport solution, it is super expensive.

Not a massive update, but picked up my ARP main and head studs today...
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Also found a machine shop that is a little bit far away, but seems to be up to the challenge. Decided not to bore the head out and stick with the 86mm pistons. If the walls ain't broke, why fix them??? This way if there is ever any damage to a cylinder I can go 86.5mm and/or 87mm. Thinking 9:1 Compression Ratio. I'm 100% postive about decking the head and the 3 angle valve job. Also picked up a metric feeler guage for the rings today too...

After a long week of research and not a whole lot of progress to report, I am picking up some BC springs and titanium retainers today too if I have enough time to swing by. Also got my front cover / oil pump in the mail...
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My 1968 4 door sr20det (s13) build thread...

 

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#29 SSSEXXX

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 02:39 PM

Uh oh!!!! Look what daddy did at lunch today... Brian Crower valve springs and titanium retainers....
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Dropped off the engine block, head, and crank off at the machine shop today. Everything getting a hot tank. Nitrating the crank, balance, hone block, deck job, then having the BC springs and titanium retainers fitted after a valve job. Also have OEM valve seats that came with my OEM gasket kit. I ordered CP Pistons (86mm standard bore @ 8.5:1 compression), Eagle Rods, and have lined up the WPC treatment which really wasn't as expensive as people made it out to be. That should all be arriving this week. Meanwhile I dropped off the engine block and head to the machine shop. Micropolishing and balancing the crank, then cryo-treating it. Everything will get hot tanked and cleaned up, then decking the head and block. SUPER EXCITED!! I am also getting my BC springs and retainers and the OEM valve stems put on the head while it is there.

Shot of my head on the floor of the 7 during transport lol. Made my v8 a 12 cylinder for a little bit...
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Oh, and I also managed to pick up some ACL main, rod and thrust bearings which of course will get the WPC treatment with the rocker arms, piston head, and rings...
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My 1968 4 door sr20det (s13) build thread...

 

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#30 SSSEXXX

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 02:43 PM

Back again kids!! Still waiting on the engine to be done over at the machine shop, but did manage to finally get my Eagle "H" Beam rods and CP 8.5:1 86mm (Standard Bore) pistons in....

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My 1968 4 door sr20det (s13) build thread...

 

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#31 SSSEXXX

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 02:49 PM

ARG!!!! Frustration beyond belief. Let me preface this post by saying that I NEED YOUR HELP. As this is my first time working on an engine, much less doing this degree of work, I don't know what to look for. I do trust the shop that I am working with, they did take their time, but that aside they have a great reputation. The head was not done yet; however, so my BC springs, retainers, and new seats were not on yet. I have to go back today and pick it up. Trunk-o-goodies. Shiny, clean block. My pistons, rods, crank, upper oil pan, gurdle...
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Close up of the block, back home where she belongs...
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So, I am not going to re-assemble her for a while. I need the WPC stuff done and am still in need of a few other misc. parts. Is there anything I should do to protect it while it is sitting in my garage????
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The crank was supposed to be "cryo-treated" to harden it up and protect it from future damage should I put this thing back together wrong. I can't tell a difference, should I be able to?? My guy at the shop is a bit forgetful and I don't think he wouldn't do it out of malice, just that he may have missed it. Alos, there is a tiny bit of what looks like surface rust on the crank now. How do I get this off before I put it back together??? Is it okay to store like this??
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My 1968 4 door sr20det (s13) build thread...

 

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#32 SSSEXXX

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 03:03 PM

Picked up the head yesterday. BC springs and retainers installed and ready to go. Best head I've gotten in a long time (sorry, had to do it).
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Close up shot of the retainers...
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Side view, intake side...
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Full frontal...
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So nice to have her all back in one place. For now anyway, I am sending stuff out this week for WPC. It is like my engine and I have a long distance relationship.
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The rest of my box-o-goodies...
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Let me tell you that it is super refreshing to now be working with a clean engine. It almost weirds me out a little bit. It makes just handling things so, so, SO much easier. It is also a lot easier to see what it is that you are doing. There are some dimples inside the head I noticed, not sure what those are, but I don't think they are going to be a problem.

I am still gathering some miscellaneous parts, but I think the only parts I need to really buy are new cam sprockets, injectors, and the turbo. I did have some questions about the injectors. I have a top feed fuel rail, I need top feed injectors right?? I have been told the bigger, the better, I was thinking 555+ cc. Can someone recommend some good sprockets??? GReddy doesn't make them anymore I believe.

My guy at the shop said that they take off as little material as they can from the block and the head when they deck it. He said a standard head gasket would be fine. Is that a good move?? I have the OEM JDM SR20DET gasket new that came with my gasket kit.

Oh, and here is a list of what I had done to the engine while it was gone and the prices that I paid. I have no idea what is standard and I know that some people believe that you shouldn't share this kind of stuff, but if it helps just one person I am good with it.

Pressure Wash Block - $40.00
Hone Bock to Fit Supplied Pistons - $140.00
Deck Block - $90.00
Valve Job - $240.00
Resurface Head $50.00
Balance Rotating Assembly - $150.00
Cryo 4-Cylinder Crankshaft - $80.00 TOTAL - $790.00

My 1968 4 door sr20det (s13) build thread...

 

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#33 DISLEXICDIME

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 03:16 PM

You mean you had the sleeves bored right? Not the block. And no a stock head gasket will not usualy hold for too long if you turn the boost up with a bigger turbo. What turbo you going for? You might want to go for a ride in a sr dime before you go adding to much more to this engine. Mine is a hand full at 8.5 pounds with a t25

#34 SSSEXXX

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 04:02 PM

Actually, I didn't bore the sleeves (that was what i meant). I stayed with the OEM 86mm bore. It really didn't make sense to do it with the HP I am shooting for and the drive-ability. I am going with either a Disco Potato or a GT2871R with a .64 housing that will fit the OEM T25 flanges. I was shooting for a lot of power. Was hoping for 300-325 at this point with quick throttle response. So the bigger T3 setups just seemed silly. I would love to ride in an SR dime, but I don't know anyone that owns one. I think the engine has been over-worked at this point, but that was because I wanted to learn more than anything. Recommendations on a good head gasket?

My 1968 4 door sr20det (s13) build thread...

 

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#35 ]2eDeYe

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 05:56 PM

The crank was supposed to be "cryo-treated" to harden it up and protect it from future damage should I put this thing back together wrong. I can't tell a difference, should I be able to?? My guy at the shop is a bit forgetful and I don't think he wouldn't do it out of malice, just that he may have missed it. Alos, there is a tiny bit of what looks like surface rust on the crank now. How do I get this off before I put it back together??? Is it okay to store like this??


You probably won't be able to tell really with the cyro.

As long as there is no rust on the journels, where the rod and main bearings ride, it's ready to bolt in. Any flash rusting on the cast areas will be negated the first time oil hits them.

For storage: Light oil coating (penetrating oil) and plastic bags for temporary. Heavy grease (wheel bearing) and bags for long term.

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#36 SSS510

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 06:04 PM

Recommendations on a good head gasket?


A NISMO or TOMEI Not cheap but it's quality

#37 johnbureezu

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 07:35 PM

The cosworth head gasket is the best for the money. It's what I ended up with and you can see the cool cosworth logo when it's installed :P. I like your setup so far, it's kinda like my own uber overkill build. A stock SR in a dime is more than enough, but eh. I was gonna go with either a disco potato or 2871, but ended up with a precision 4828. Basically a disco potato with a billet compressor wheel. What engine management are you going to use? That's where the money is...tuning tuning and more tuning. lol

Awesome work so far man.

#38 DISLEXICDIME

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 07:51 PM

I havent decided on the tomei or the cosworth . I remember the first time i drove my sr car the power was so awsome and scarry at the same time . Your going to shit bricks the first time with a grin ear to ear

#39 ariascarlos1990

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 08:32 PM

OMG this build just made my day!

Please get a 510 wagon and make it a sleeper.

Thanks bye. :P

#40 dennis

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Posted 31 August 2011 - 05:03 AM

x3 cosworth