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how to free up hp on stock a14


josh_t

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My recent 63a swap was not so straight forward, 4 speed cars have an itty bitty tunnel, trans doesnt fit through the trans mount hangers had to cut and pound a place for the speedo and sensors, ended up welding the reverse light sensor hole closed couse of a crack and clearence, make a mount to stretch forward and space down for the right angle. Auto swap is cake , oh I went with the auto rear both times, couple extra freeway miles a tank.

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ok. it will be a while b4 a manual gets in there anyway it doesnt seem to be out of my skill league by any means, help would definitely be a plus. my floor jack working properly would be nice too. i dont use it because it leaks so i borrow the factory one out of my dads ranger. takes all day to get the car up and down. the two things i will miss about the auto is that i can power brake it and do a burnout smoothly and when i start driving it to school at 8ish in the morning i can be lazier than if i had a stick.

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What happens? You don't get 100 HP.

 

The stock heads only make 85 HP, and that requires a bigger carb and a more agressive camshaft.

 

You can port the head and fit bigger valves as one part needed to get to 100 HP.

 

to be honest i thought you took me for a fool when you told me that. i was like there is no way i'm limited to that low of a number. but i pulled my manifolds off today cuz i got bored and i put my finger in the port and you couldn't be more right about it. even tho i want to keep it mostly stock and do very minor things, i am now wanting to go get another h72 head and port and polish it. it needs it. getting a weber and a header would make a much bigger difference when that head starts flowin a little better. sorry for bein a know it all about it. i really had no clue this time.

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to be honest i thought you took me for a fool when you told me that. i was like there is no way i'm limited to that low of a number. but i pulled my manifolds off today cuz i got bored and i put my finger in the port and you couldn't be more right about it. even tho i want to keep it mostly stock and do very minor things, i am now wanting to go get another h72 head and port and polish it. it needs it. getting a weber and a header would make a much bigger difference when that head starts flowin a little better. sorry for bein a know it all about it. i really had no clue this time.

 

Just for the hell of it, to give you an idea how small this engine actually is:

 

d5aef7a6.jpg

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i would not invest in the A series engine. yes, it can be made to have way more power but you're going to really put some money into it to get anywhere near a decent power level. i think that an engine swap is your best bet. If i was to low buck it, i would invest in a used l20b and a five speed. Your looking at least 110 hp with from a decent running l20b with way more torque. Also, there are tons of these motors at pick a part, on half of day you can get a whole motor with accessories for about 150 plus core. Get an adapter to put in a weber, and you can put a motorcraft two barrel from a Pinto (same as a weber) i just bought one of these carbs for 11 bucks on half of day at pick a part, and you got a very decent little motor for not a lot of cash. any way good luck with your project.

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  • 2 weeks later...

What I have:

1975 Datsun B210 Hatchback, A15 (oil pan modded to fit) has a longer stroke thus more low end torque

2" Exhaust (Stock Exhaust Manifold) Do Not add a Header if you are already running larger exhaust than the stock 1" pipe

MSD Blaster 2 Coil (bosch relay setup to pull 14.5 volts directly from the battery to positive hook up) That alone will increase your MPG by 2-3 on the Automatic. (it did just that on my 78 B210)

Put a Larger Negative Cable from battery to Chassis to improve voltage flow

5-Speed FSW60A (from 79-82 Datsun 210) running into the stock 4-speed driveshaft which is the same as the automatic drive shaft, but slighty different length by about an inch. Differential is the 3.9 Automatic Rearend.

Carb Weber 32/36 DGV

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If you just want to see an improvement immediately do the bosch relay to pull power directly from the battery. It makes a 50K volt spark.

Improvement is immediately noticeable as your idle will increase by about 300-400 rpm (as its burning the fuel better)

 

I do 85 at 3200 rpm in 5th gear. On any On-Ramp I can be up to 85+ before time to merge. Its not fast but its not a 12 second 0-60 either and I still get 30 MPG.

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5-Speed FSW60A (from 79-82 Datsun 210) running into the stock 4-speed driveshaft

 

Or, get a B210 5-speed and it uses the stock automatic driveshaft.

 

 

FS5W63A is the b210 5-speed you are referring to right?

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well i would probably get a fs5w63a since i can use my current drive shaft. so the list would be as follows: transmission, clutch, flywheel, master cylinder, pedal assembly, and the line for the fluid. is this all?

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well i would probably get a fs5w63a since i can use my current drive shaft. so the list would be as follows: transmission, clutch, flywheel, master cylinder, pedal assembly, and the line for the fluid. is this all?

 

Also, depending on clutch kit, and trans completeness: pilot bearing, throwout bearing, alignment tool, slave cylinder and hard and soft lines.

 

You can reuse the AT mount.

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