Jump to content

280zx struts


Recommended Posts

The width of wheel you can for depend on the offset, the hub face is closer to the strut tube. I have 15x6.5 +17 and they barely clear(the paint is actually rubbed off from the tires flexing). I would go with a 0 or - offset for the fronfs

Link to comment
  • Replies 284
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Here is what I was talking about. I have my collar dropped right next to the wheel. I still am looking for about 1 more inch of drop in the front and I dont think moving the collar down would be a good idea. This weekend I plan on chopping half a spring to make my total 1.5 coils cut.

 

img0572kh.jpg
img0570k.jpg
img0571qq.jpg
img0574oz.jpg
img0569kk.jpg

See how rotation of the perch would hit the tire

Do you think that this is too low for my collar?
Ps. This is the stock wheel so stock offset (whatever that is)

Link to comment
  • 3 weeks later...

I'm buying my set this week off a member.

I won't be able to purchase the coilovers for quiet awhile because I want to buy some other important things first.

How can i put gc sleeves on the 280zx struts?

I'll post pics of the set I'm buying tomorrow. 

Link to comment

Cut off the existing lower storing perch(grinding the wells down until you can knock it off with a hammer is the usual way) the GC kit I got came with some weld on "D" plates that you weld on where the original perch was

Link to comment
  • 2 months later...

Very common problem. Seldom do you get down past 1/2 pad before the caliper hits the tie rod and the brakes just kind of "go away". :P

 

But there is a VERY simple (and free!) fix. Put the left strut on the right side, and the right strut on the left side. ;)

 

Fits up perfectly fine, moves the calipers to the front instead of the back, and no more interference. B)

 

Would the stock brake lines work with this set up?

Link to comment

710 stock brakelines will not work with this setup. I cant speak for 510

 

I find this extremely hard to believe. I've put 280ZX struts on just about every car Datsun made in the 70s (including a 710 coupe) and the stock rubber lines have always screwed straight into the 280ZX calipers. Even if the rubber hose didn't, the 280ZX rubber hose will bolt up to the stock 710 hard line. 

Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...

My 76 710 has a rubber hose to the strut housing which connects to a hard line which connected to the caliper.

The stock rubber hose is a female-female connection. Both the 710 and 280zx calipers require a male end.

The 280zx has a deeper screw hole so when I attempted to use the 710 hardline, it leaked behind the fitting because it couldnt seal at the flare.

 

Maybe you can find a hardline that will work with the 280zx caliper but I found it much easier to spend the 15$ per side to order a stock 280zx rubber hose which replaces the 710 rubber & hardline.

Link to comment
  • 6 months later...

Ok, so I'm in the middle of this mod on my 710. I think there's a trick here that I don't know. I've read a bunch, and I've run into this issue twice now without finding anyone who mentioned it.

 

I can't get the freaking strut to let go of the steering knuckle. The bolts came off easily. The strut will not let go of the knuckle.

 

I had the same issue getting them off of the Zx. I enlisted the help of a friend with a fork lift then. That resulted in stripping the threads on the opposite side's retaining ring. No bigs. I can weld on the one from the 710. However, not if I screw up the 710 strut.

 

At the moment, I've given up and soaked both sides in pb blaster. The side where the bolts are removed is up on a jack hopi ng it settles over night.

 

Any ideas as to how to get it off?..... (teeheehee)

 

IMG_20140319_200848_zpsubvxvmes.jpg

Link to comment

That's what I thought. Step 2 is where I run into difficulty. I will let it soak and try again after work tomorrow. It's probably rusted together after 37 years.

 

It's just funny that I had the same issues with the parts Zx and broke shit in my haste.

 

Thanks. I'll update tomorrow evening.

Link to comment

Ok, so I'm in the middle of this mod on my 710. I think there's a trick here that I don't know. I've read a bunch, and I've run into this issue twice now without finding anyone who mentioned it.

 

I can't get the freaking strut to let go of the steering knuckle. The bolts came off easily. The strut will not let go of the knuckle.

 

I had the same issue getting them off of the Zx. I enlisted the help of a friend with a fork lift then. That resulted in stripping the threads on the opposite side's retaining ring. No bigs. I can weld on the one from the 710. However, not if I screw up the 710 strut.

 

At the moment, I've given up and soaked both sides in pb blaster. The side where the bolts are removed is up on a jack hopi ng it settles over night.

 

Any ideas as to how to get it off?..... (teeheehee)

 

 

IMG_20140319_200848_zpsubvxvmes.jpg

 

 

I see you haven't disconnected the anti-sway bar, or the TC rod yet.  Try that, and I think you will find the LCA will drop down out of the way, just by putting your foot on it and pushing down....

Link to comment

I will definitely try that tomorrow. Thanks. I'm just blown away by how stuck together they were on the Zx/are on the 710. I figured they'd just come apart when the bolts were loose.

 

Ohhh.... I see what your saying now. Yeah a pry bar between the strut housing the LCA should work. But to get the assembly out, it's a lot easier when you disconnect the other two and drop the LCA down further.

Link to comment

Leave it all connected. Put your 4 ft jack handle on top of your T/C rod, and then under your crossmember. Sit on the handle. This will push down on the control arm.

 

In the Pic, it looks like you still have the knuckle bolted to the bottom of the strut.

 

This is the same method used for putting in RCAs.

Link to comment

If you're going to remove the bolts on the TC rod and the sway bar....I would also loosen the 22mm pivot bolt nut at the other end of the LCA.

Gives the LCA a chance to pivot/swing down more freely without the possibility of splitting or damaging the LCA bushing.

Assuming the sleeve in the bushing is not fused to the bolt/spindle

Link to comment

Leave it all connected. Put your 4 ft jack handle on top of your T/C rod, and then under your crossmember. Sit on the handle. This will push down on the control arm.

 

In the Pic, it looks like you still have the knuckle bolted to the bottom of the strut.

 

This is the same method used for putting in RCAs.

And the winner is!

 

1. You and John (datsunfreak) are the only ones that pointed out, in the dark, I had taken out the wrong two bolts.

 

2. When I got out the right ones. This totally worked.

 

On the Zx at the junk yard, I did similar, but with the help of a fork lift. We destroyed that car getting the struts off. I had actually taken out the right bolts that time.

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.