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280zx struts


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#241 datzenmike

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Posted 29 April 2017 - 07:42 PM

The zx coil spring is too large a diameter so you will need to cut the zx spring perch off and swap the 510 perch and spring on.
 
 
 

Strictly, you do not have to used coil overs to have an adjustable height.The zx struts are 1 1/2" shorter than the stock 510 struts and yes the spindle is at the same angle. The zx spring is way, way too large a diameter to fit up inside the 510 strut tower so it has to go. What you can do is carefully trim off the lower spring mount from the old 510 strut and trim off one coil from the spring. Removing a coil will increase the spring rate... a good thing on a lowered car to reduce suspension travel and firm up the ride. Not totally necessary but stock springs are always a compromise and on the soft side. Do the same to the zx strut and grind the remaining weld down smooth on the strut tube. Now slip the 510 lower spring mount and shorter spring on the zx strut tube and assemble with the old 510 top hat. To prevent the spring perch from sliding down the tube use a split collar that can be moved up or down to set the height.

Trim just above the weld on the lower spring perch with angle grinder and 6" metal cutting blade.
strutmods004Large-1.jpg

Tap the perch loos and off...
strutmods005Large-1.jpg


Remove and grind down the weld till smooth so the split collar can slide smoothly and grip the strut tube.
strutmods006Large.jpg

Loosely assembled strut with spring, spring perch and split collar underneath. The split collar will withstand 6,000 lbs each! That's almost three 510s on each split collar... they won't slip when tightened.
strutmods010Large.jpg


I did this on my 710 which has similar struts and brakes to the 510, using Maxima wagon struts which are almost exactly the same as the zx struts.
710strutupgrade004Large.jpg

strutmods004Large.jpg

Maxima and 710 struts and brakes.
1TBexternalharddrive004Large.jpg

One additional thing I did was increase the damping to compliment the increased spring rate. To do this is easy, I just removed the gland nut.... thanks for picture.

toyota_cressida_tokico_damper_install13.


and poured out the very thin watery hydraulic oil. (looks like 5 or 10W) I refilled the strut with 20w motorcycle fork oil which is high in rust inhibitors and anti foaming agents and also comes in a variety of different weights. The hardest part was holding upside down and pulling the strut rod out and pushing in to dispel any bubbles when bleeding them. Leave a 1/2" of space at the top for heat expansion.

Cost?
$3.50............ metal cutting blade
$20............... two two inch split collars
$17............... 1 liter of 20W BellRay fork oil. Enough for three struts. (you can use $5 a gallon hydraulic jack oil or Auto trans fluid too)

Total about $50

Not as easy as $350-$1,200 coil overs to adjust, but hey, once you get the ride height you want how many times a week you going to adjust it anyway???????

edit: I see it's for a 210 so just sub 210 where it says 510. One coil removed from the 710 increases the spring rate from 100 to 150 lbs per inch or about 50%. I don't know what the 210 rate would be

 
 
RESEARCH
http://community.rat...1-280zx-struts/


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#242 charolastra

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Posted 29 May 2017 - 10:31 PM

Can I use my 510 rca's with the 280zx struts?

#243 thisismatt

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Posted 30 May 2017 - 05:00 AM

Can I use my 510 rca's with the 280zx struts?

yes
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#244 charolastra

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Posted 30 May 2017 - 08:42 PM

Thanks

#245 Junbug

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Posted 03 August 2017 - 12:18 PM

Hey everyone, thanks for all your help with answering all my questions about converting my front suspension and upgrading my breaks. One other question is what years 280 zx are compatible with my 71 510?

#246 datzenmike

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Posted 03 August 2017 - 04:26 PM

All years of zx front struts are. That's '79-'83 280zx or S31.... turbo, non turbo, it doesn't matter. For rear calipers the '82/'83 are more desirable. 

 

Keep in mind that stock 13" rims probably won't fit over these large calipers.


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#247 thisismatt

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Posted 03 August 2017 - 06:26 PM

You want the earlier (79-81) master cylinder if you are going to use the 280zx master. The later ones switched bolt pattern
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#248 jovial_cynic

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Posted Yesterday, 06:55 PM

I've FINALLY gotten around to doing this brake swap. I've been sitting on a set of Maxima struts since April 2006, according to my project blog, dragging them along with me to California when I moved down there, brought them back up to Washington when I moved back here. I've had a bit more time to wrench on things, so here we go.

 

The 510 perches have been cut/welded onto the 280zx struts, new strut inserts installed, everything sealed up and installed. And THEN I read this thread about swapping left-to-right, so I'll get those flipped this week. I haven't addressed bleeding the lines yet, so this should be fairly easy.

 

I picked up the brake master cylinder for the 280zx. Quick question: is the push-rod interchangeable? The 280zx didn't come with a push rod, so I hope it's an easy swap. If not, is there a known adjustment or tweak that needs to be made?

Next - I see from some research that the 280zx MC has check valves that need to be removed if running disc brakes all around. That's my plan. Is there anything else I need to be aware of?



#249 datzenmike

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Posted Yesterday, 07:14 PM

Negative. The zx had front and rear disc brakes so if you do too it's good to go.

 

I have rear drums so I took the rear residual valve out of my 710 and put it into the 15/16 zx master.

 

nQb2tYJ.jpg


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#250 jovial_cynic

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Posted Yesterday, 07:27 PM

And the push-rod question?



#251 datzenmike

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Posted Yesterday, 07:43 PM

Don't know, I have vacuum booster. The 15/16" master went right on in place of the (I think) 13/16". To guess, I would say yes. The push rods have adjustment. Make sure you have about 2mm of pedal play.


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