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Differential Removal Help Needed


josh_t

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Well if half an inch the spline is still engaged so tap on the axle between the lug bolts and drive it back on and then try removing it again. The bearing should not stay in the axle tube while the axle comes out. They are pressed onto the axle shaft. Maybe a picture of this?

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nope. the stuck side you can see clearly between the backing plate and the bearing. the axle thats out you cant so much. the one thats stuck is out far enough that you can see some sort of step in the shaft where the diameter changes. it gets smaller towards the hub (away from the center of the car)

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well i called it a night at around 9. i wont get to it until monday or late tomorrow. i soaked the area all around the bearing with wd-40. i know its not the best but its all that was in the garage. if i have time tomorrow i will get a good look at everything and see what the differences between the two are. ill try to get some pics too.

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its fine. i didnt get home much today as i had hoped. i'm goin to try to work on it some tomorrow at noon. being in broad daylight will probably help and it being soaked in wd-40 for two days might do a little. i am really hoping to at least start putting it back together tomorrow.

 

edit: i got to lookin at the axles and the stuck one hasnt moved out of the bearing. the other one looks the same. this one just hasnt moved at all.

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sorry to double post. idk how to remove my own post yet. i just got the axle out. instead of using the rubber mallet on the backing plate by itself i went and found a short section of 2x4 and beat on it with the hammer. it came out in maybe 6 good whacks. too bad i didnt do that the other day.

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yep. i took the drain plug out just now and i didnt know it was magnetic but that also scared me. its covered in metal shavings. they dont look like they would have come from a gear though. it almost seems like something was dropped in there on accident. but either way the oil is pitch black and has shavings in it. only a pinch though. they all got attracted to the plug luckily.

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got the diff out. looks very nice considering my earlier worries. negligible play. the teeth on the gears are not sharp on the edges, they still have a defined, nice edge though. the contact surfaces on the teeth are shiny and they are all the same and there is no rust. i don't see anything i should be worried about. unless there is something i should look for that i didn't. also the bolts on the drive shaft weren't very tight. i could hold the shaft with one bare hand and turn the nut with a 3-inch 12mm wrench without a struggle.

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just finished it up at 9. i greased up and set my rear brakes and i worked on my exhaust some. it needed a hanger in two places. and i cleaned up what i could under there and made sure i torqued everything down properly and evenly. its so good to finally see that thing on the ground again.

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CAUTION: if you change the pinion seal, you are supposed to replace the crush tube in order to re-tighten the nut to the proper pre-load. For this reason, it is best to only replace it if it's leaking.

Many (most?) are still not leaking after 40 years. The pumpkin gasket more commonly leaks.

 

GG, do you know if these crush tubes are still available?

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