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Newbie saying hello and in need of help!!


von1988

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Hello everyone. My name is Abdiel aka (Von) I own a 2006 Nissan Titan and I just bought myself an 82 720 king cab. I plan on fixing her an daily driving her. I really don't know the history of the truck all I know is that a buddy of mine bought it about 6 months ago but couldn't make it pass the cali smog so he parked it. I saw it and bought it and switched it to a Texan truck. :-) I'm from the Houston Texas area and I'll be taking it back with me after I leave cali. The truck runs ok. For a 200k+ truck. The only thing that I've been trying to figure out is about my headlights and turn signal. My right hand turn signal work fine but my left one stays stuck. Also when I turn on the headlights they won't come on. I have to do the knob as if I was putting my left turn on till they come on. I don't know if it's the fuse or the stalk itself. I know it's not the bulbs bcs the bulbs are fine. I also wanted to remove all of the emissions crap it has on there and was wondering if the only way to do that was getting a new carb or can I start plugging off vacuum lines?

 

I know everyone here likes pics so here they go. :-)

This is before I bought the truck. I'll try take more tomorrow. The interior is a little worn out but I plan on changing that.

Let me know what y'all think. Criticism welcome

 

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Go to a wrecking yard and grab a headlight/turn signal switch assy. You have to remove the steering wheel nut and with both hands thump the wheel from behind towards you to remove without a puller. BE SURE TO TURN YOUR HEAD SO YOU DON'T LOOSE ANY TEETH!!! I've never used a puller on any Nissan steering wheel I've ever taken off.

 

You might be able to take yours off and rinse with WD-40 to get it working but be prepared just in case.

 

The California carb has three vacuum ports on the pass side of it. The rear most vacuum line can be removed from the EGR valve (to the rear of the motor) and plugged with a small bolt. This will de activate the ERG and the very rearmost vacuum port. The middle vacuum line Forms a T so unplug and it and install a small bolt to seal the carb side of the hose. The very front hose goes to the vacuum advance on the distributor. It also goes to a thermal vacuum valve on the intake manifold. It has three hoses. The bottom hose can be pulled off and plugged. This is connected to the vacuum advance on the distributor and sealling it will give you advance at all times and not just when the motor is warmed up.

 

Anything else I would leave alone as pulling random hoses off WILL cause problems. Just check hoses for splits, loose or leaks.

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I didn't even pull mine off, i just looked inside from the side, and could see the contacts. i shot one little squirt of WD40 in there and it worked fine, you might get that lucky. Its worth a shot (no pun intended), and if it works you wont have to work on it.

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If going to 4 link go ahead, but don't say that it's stronger than leaf springs. They carry the truck plus cargo just fine and I doubt that you will be carrying anywhere near that amount. Once dropped and 4 linked the vehicle is a truck in name only.

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Datzenmike I'm trying to take the vacuum lines off the carb I think I found them. Just want to make sure I'm doing this right. There's 2 lines on the plate beneath the carb and one on the carb itself. There's also 3 lines that go to some kind of cylinoid by the fender. My question is that the line thats on the plate also has a T on it and it. One goes to the efr and the other to the thermal swith on the intake. Do I have the right hoses. Thanks

Here's some pics.

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This is the thermal vacuum switch on the intake: The bottom hose goes to a T with one end to the carb and the other to the distributor vacuum advance. The thermal vacuum switch leeks vacuum when cold so the distributor does not get full advance. (it's an emissions thing) When the motor warms, the thermal vacuum switch closes off the leak and full vacuum is applied to the distributor. If you remove the bottom hose from the thermal vacuum switch and plug the end you will have vacuum advance at all times.

 

The other hoses on the top of the carb are either the altitude compensator or the spark switching control.... just leave them.

 

 

In fact the motor runs best with everything connected and operating right. There isn't really much to gain here.

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