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Building my first 510


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To clear up an earlier point; Here are the two cross-members side by side. at first glance you can see the LCA points and engine mounting area are identical. when i took a closer look i noticed that other than the goofy bar in-between there is only one other difference. There seem to be a second Control arm stud location custom drilled above the stock one. what this does exactly to the suspension or the wheel location i am not sure.

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the holes that are drilled above the stock ones, i believe, would be to level out the lca when the car is lowered. this improves suspension geometry by keeping the arm level, helps roll or something like that. again this is a guess but if its going to be low, i would try it in both positions to see if theres a difference

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I do want to build a VG33 but i never considered boring it. sounds mean. My goal is to make over 175 horse. sounds do-able. I have no plans to smoke every car on the street. I just want a reliable engine that will get me to the car nights and let me do a burn out every once in awhile. if i go VG33 i am def carbing it.

 

 

:cool: Yessssssssss.

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Well, we all cant have our dream engine the first time up and i could not pass on such a great deal from another 510 owner. this bad boy will bolt right up and has 0 miles.

NAPz 2.4

Ported/polished

Port matched HKS manifold

Dual mikunis/Solex 44's fully rebuilt

Custom oil pan.

 

I stripped her, cleaned her, repainted her and checked tolerances.

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some other progress. currently i am working with friends to get some take off wheels so i can move forward with paint and body. had to weld two washers on side of shifter to make the rectangle cut out fit the NAPz trans. all gravy now, and the laid back curve design will help bring the shifter knob back a few inches from this short tranny.

Spacers to fit almost any shock.

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New Seat rails out of 1x3 Square pipe. welded to frame rails/door sills/trans tunnel

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MR2 Seat in place rather nicely, enough room for an adult to get in back.

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Washers on shifter mount.

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Raining out so i turned on Rocky 4 and worked on my cluster as per The Dime Quarterly Volume: 5 Issue: 2. not many pics on the step by step but so far so good. looking into how i can get my odometer back to "0000000" since my engine is in essence new. hmmm, cordless drill and bit? (notice the broken circuit, gonna have to jumper that path)

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looking aat that rear x member it looks like it has points to join to a cage is that the case?

 

In short, Yes. The car has full length frame rails running in line with the car. they attach to the rear X member vial two squar pipe posts, allowing for the X member to still be removed on its own. so it has the stock mateing points....Um 4 right? the 2 huge ones, and the two smaller diff supports +2 from my frame rails. I actually hope the car isn't too too stiff.

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