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trying to bleed my brakes


wayno

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Ok, I had a couple hours before I was supposed to pick up the engine from the machine shop, so I dived into the new M/C, i put it in the vise, filled both reservoirs, grabbed the screwdriver and pushed in maybe 1/3 to 1/2 way in a few times, I had both line connections plugged off, I tried bleeding the circuts with the side bleeder valves, it didn't go very well at first, but I had resistance fairly quick, so I took the plug out of the bottom of the front circut, put my finger over it and pumped again and got fluid right away, I put this soft plastic plug I got with the M/C in that hole pushed one more time holding the plug in, a little fluid went by, and when I let off the soft plug stayed in the hole, I repeated this with the rear circut, a couple pumps and I was in business. I put it in the truck, piped everything again then started the bleeding, it was slow at first, then I realized that the front circut was holding me back, so I cracked open the driverside caliper bleeder valve, put a hose on it and put the end of the hose in a glass of brake fluid, then I worked on the rear circut, it went fast after that, then I closed the front valve, I have brakes now. I decided to try my new brakes by going to pick up the LZ22 engine block/head, I got about half a mile away from the house at a signal, got the green light, put the pedal down and it died, and wouldn't start, after a couple minutes at the most, I looked around at the 5pm rush hour traffic, looked at my truck sitting in the middle of it, and decided that this truck had to be moved NOW, before the cops showed up, I push that truck half a block by myself down millplain on level ground till I got to the safeway entrance, turned the wheel to exit the road, and it came to a stop trying to go up the little rise in elevation, I was tired, I hopped in the truck, put it in first and used the starter, the engine has a 22 to 1 compression ratio, the starter stuggled but got the 20 feet up and out of the road, then I got some help, a couple guys pushed me into a parking spot at the bank. I popped the hood again, as I had it open out in the street trying to figure out what was wrong for about a minute, I realized that the fuel filter had no fuel in it, I tapped on the fuel tank, EMPTY. :unsure: I had tried to prime it out in the street, in that minute the hood was up, but there was no fuel even though my gauge said I had a quarter of a tank of fuel.dry.gif I walked home and started the other diesel, went and picked up the engine, so I didn't have to wait any longer for it, stopped and filled a can with diesel, put it in the truck, primed it and started it. :D I'll tell you this, that freaking engine is at my house. :lol: And I have brakes in the 521 kingcab.

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how in the world does somebody mess up master cylinder their the most simple process to rebuild

 

Yes they are simple but if the monkey doing the job is using poor tolerance sub quality shit parts from China what do you expect?

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How did you use quality and Raysbestos in the same sentence?

And how did you think you would be able to compare it to a Nissan MC?

 

And after a vacuum bleed, a manual bleed is highly recommended.

You can get away with just the vacuum, and have it work. But not always.

Hell, this is even a question on the ASE exam for brakes.

Never press your luck with brakes.

 

Wow...I am beginning to think you hate me flatcat. First off, companies like Raybestos and Bendix, ect. may not be as good as the Nissan or any other OEM part, but most Datsun owners can't afford to buy a factory part and pay the shipping to get one of the remaining few in existence sent to their local dealership. Just because it isn't OEM doesn't mean it is complete sh*t, but we can agree to disagree on this.

 

Next, I am sorry I forgot to tell him to pressure bleed AFTER the vacuum bleed if he still has air pockets.

 

As far as never pressing your luck with brakes, well, then don't buy a f---king remanufactured Chinese special and do it yourself if you don't know what you are doing. The reality is that apparently not all of us are as rich as you are and can not pay for all Nissan badged parts, and not everyone on this board can take their car to the dealership or even pay someone other than themselves to do the work. I thought the elitist attitude was only on ricer forums, but hey, I guess you can even find it on forums where a good portion of the cars have rust and are built in garages on the weekends.

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Wow...I am beginning to think you hate me flatcat. First off, companies like Raybestos and Bendix, ect. may not be as good as the Nissan or any other OEM part, but most Datsun owners can't afford to buy a factory part and pay the shipping to get one of the remaining few in existence sent to their local dealership. Just because it isn't OEM doesn't mean it is complete sh*t, but we can agree to disagree on this.

 

Next, I am sorry I forgot to tell him to pressure bleed AFTER the vacuum bleed if he still has air pockets.

 

As far as never pressing your luck with brakes, well, then don't buy a f---king remanufactured Chinese special and do it yourself if you don't know what you are doing. The reality is that apparently not all of us are as rich as you are and can not pay for all Nissan badged parts, and not everyone on this board can take their car to the dealership or even pay someone other than themselves to do the work. I thought the elitist attitude was only on ricer forums, but hey, I guess you can even find it on forums where a good portion of the cars have rust and are built in garages on the weekends.

 

I don't hate you. But-No one likes a know it all.

 

Now your last paragraph...you couldn't be further from the truth.

Never had I said I'm a rich elitist. Nor do I pay anybody to work on my cars. I have been pushing my own wrench, professionally, for the span of 17 years. ASE certified. Big box of quality tools. Very far from your ignorant rant against me. And if you're directing that 1st sentence at me...you're wrong again, and it takes away from your next few sentences. Call me what you want. But you don't know me. Nor half of what you're talking about. Tell more people to stay away from Chinese junk, but recommend Raysbestos/Bendix all day long. And while you do that, I keep fixing your botched brake jobs.

 

Sorry to take away from Wayno's thread.

But Spades...go back and look at what MC I recommended Wayno to use. It's OK. We'll wait for you. Not an OEM/Nissan part.

Go back to the shade, Son.

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I don't hate you. But-No one likes a know it all.

 

Now your last paragraph...you couldn't be further from the truth.

Never had I said I'm a rich elitist. Nor do I pay anybody to work on my cars. I have been pushing my own wrench, professionally, for the span of 17 years. ASE certified. Big box of quality tools. Very far from your ignorant rant against me. And if you're directing that 1st sentence at me...you're wrong again, and it takes away from your next few sentences. Call me what you want. But you don't know me. Nor half of what you're talking about. Tell more people to stay away from Chinese junk, but recommend Raysbestos/Bendix all day long. And while you do that, I keep fixing your botched brake jobs.

 

Sorry to take away from Wayno's thread.

But Spades...go back and look at what MC I recommended Wayno to use. It's OK. We'll wait for you. Not an OEM/Nissan part.

Go back to the shade, Son.

 

No, the the Chinese reman comment was not directed at you, it was to the people I see that buy the cheapest part they can find at baxters/napa/autozone,ect.

 

I am not questioning your amazing technician abilities, nor did I call you anything, I said you have an elitist attitude, which you do. I would be shocked if you ever fixed any of my brake jobs because 90% of what I do currently doesn't involve brake systems, mostly drivability and electrical, and I have yet to have a come back from any of my brake jobs, of course, I haven't been doing this for 17 years like you have.

 

I understand I forgot to post that he needs to pressure bleed again after a vacuum bleed if there are stubborn air pockets, but please explain to me why that negates everything I said and makes it so that half of what I am talking about is wrong.

 

Tell me...how many technicians do you know that clean and lubricate caliper slides? use a non directional finish on rotors? use more than one cut to refinish rotors? bother to take the time to do more than a quick pressure bleed? I am sure you see me as another scrub, but don't take out your pent up aggression on me...you aren't getting my brake jobs...and I may not be the most awesome and knowledgeable person out there, but trolling and calling me son isn't going to help anything.

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The reality is that apparently not all of us are as rich as you are and can not pay for all Nissan badged parts, and not everyone on this board can take their car to the dealership or even pay someone other than themselves to do the work.

 

Then what was this?

 

 

Tell me...how many technicians do you know that clean and lubricate caliper slides? use a non directional finish on rotors? use more than one cut to refinish rotors? bother to take the time to do more than a quick pressure bleed?

 

Everyone of the good ones.

 

I don't hate. Really. But I am very nit-picky with brakes.

Using poor parts leads to failure.

Giving bad advice leads to failure.

People performing sub-par work leads to failure.

Put all three of those together, and it leads to nothing but bad things.

 

Have your exhaust draggin' on the street. I don't care.

Alternator shimmed up with 20 washers. Doesn't bug me.

4 different sized tires. Have fun.

But doing any of the three above mentioned things-I'll jump every time.

We are all on this road together. Brakes are serious business.

 

Spades-that's all it really is.

I don't hate. Not a hate session. Not a hazing.

It was straight concern that something was awry.

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Then what was this?

 

pointing out that a good portion of ratsun can't pay to have things perfect, be it parts or proffessionals. You assumed that I was saying you paid for your work, but I was trying to say some people here can't buy the best and have to do it themselves or buy a cheaper part.

 

I don't hate. Really. But I am very nit-picky with brakes.

Using poor parts leads to failure.

Giving bad advice leads to failure.

People performing sub-par work leads to failure.

Put all three of those together, and it leads to nothing but bad things.

Brakes are serious business.

 

Spades-that's all it really is.

I don't hate. Not a hate session. Not a hazing.

It was straight concern that something was awry.

look, I don't have the best communication skills, and if I forget something, please feel free to mention what I am forgetting. I am not perfect, but I forgot to mention one after step, and instead of reminding the person to do a pressure bleed after, you felt the need to question all of my advise and suggest that I perform sub-par work. That is your right as a Ratsun member, and it is my right to get butthurt over it ;)

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Ok guys, the brakes are bled, they seem to work, I think I have some other issues that I will take care of. The first reman that I bought that the rear circut wouldn't work properly was bought from 1234567, I always thought that they were a higher end outfit, above the rest of that type of auto store, now I know differant. The reman was from an outfit called wagner, before I took it back I decided to find out why it didn't work properly, so I took it apart, I couldn't beleave what I found, The rear circut assembly is a shaft with a few seals on it pointing opposite from each other, it was stuck all the way at the end of the bore and was a bitch to get out, I had to use air to force it out, what I found was along with it being bottomed out, it was on the wrong side of its own keeper, that keeper was to keep it from bottoming out and ruining the seal, if the sping would have been strong enough to push it back from the bottom of the bore, the shaft seal on that end would have hit the keeper and ruined the seal on that end, it was put together improperly/wrong, the rear circut shaft was stuck bottomed out, I beleave the reason why it wouldn't move was the assembly was bent, after I got it out, it didn't go back in easy. I went to another outfit because they were the only ones open with the part in stock, I did not pull that one apart to see why it wouldn't work, I just took it back within a couple hours and got my money back. The new M/C was easy to work with, it acted like any other M/C I have dealt with, no issues at all other than I was bleeding both circuts at the same time, that was wrong I beleave, I should have started with the rear circut only, as when the front circut finished first, it became a problem, till I opened it up, connected the bleeder hose, and put it into a cup of fluid, and then finished the rear circut. I took the information I received from everyone, and used it all in some form, I thankyou all for your help, I was a little frustrated when the part didn't act like I thought it should, I have bought dual res. remans before and never had a problem, but it was at least 10 years ago now.

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glad you figured it out! Wagner seemed to be decent a few years ago, but I think they changed where their stuff was remaned a few years back. I think CarQuest and Baxters still carry their stuff, we no longer purchase it though because of problems like the one you mentioned. Some brands still have OEM molds or are rebuilding a stock part, and should be reliable, but are put back together or built with cheap metal, rubber, and plastics, or are put together improperly. A good example of this is what happened to Dorman products when they stopped building stuff in the US and Taiwan...all their newer stuff I have seen has been junk.

 

Hopefully with enough returns, parts store corporations/owners will realize there is a point when carrying a cheap product is no longer profitable(as in, they have a frustrated customer that never buys from them again and they have to return 5 of the same parts as all defective).

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