Boaty Posted October 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2011 Oh and there is 5" of snow as of Friday night a few places at high elevation. Lotta buddies went wheelin'. There was also like 3" of snow at the north entrance to Crater Lake a few days ago. It tickled me in a happy way, too. I'm just scared to re-learn snow in a 510 haha. It's an "art". Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted October 9, 2011 Report Share Posted October 9, 2011 hence why i got my subaru Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted October 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 Sub.. subar...subaru?! BURN THE WITCH! Nah J/k. I'd kill to have a clean little Subie. At one point a buddy of mine converted an old Justy (looks like an outdated Geo Metro) to AWD with a late model engine. Wasn't fast but it scooted right along. Best part was that it was like 8 feet long and 4 wheel drive with 50/50 split. Made one hell of a messy donut. It finally threw a rod so he took it back to the JY he brought it from. Think he may have spent $50 doing it (he worked at a JY at the time.) Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted October 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 Cleaned up the KA a little bit.. pictures didn't come out so I won't post 'em, but got rid of the oxidation and such (for the most part) off the aluminum bits. Polished the upper timing cover... getting more motivated! Now if somebody would kindly scare off the rain that's supposedly going to haunt me all this week? Quote Link to comment
Siqx20 Posted October 10, 2011 Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 I love my garage. For once I don't fear the rain. Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted October 10, 2011 Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 Dude really? No mention of who drove 400 miles on the bumpers in my hard body to deliver said engine setup? 1 Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted October 10, 2011 Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 Sub.. subar...subaru?! BURN THE WITCH! Nah J/k. I'd kill to have a clean little Subie. At one point a buddy of mine converted an old Justy (looks like an outdated Geo Metro) to AWD with a late model engine. Wasn't fast but it scooted right along. Best part was that it was like 8 feet long and 4 wheel drive with 50/50 split. Made one hell of a messy donut. It finally threw a rod so he took it back to the JY he brought it from. Think he may have spent $50 doing it (he worked at a JY at the time.) they can be found i got mine for 200 and it needed a clutch i threw head gaskets at it and a carb rebuild now i needs a cv joint but i dont even have 500 into it and its running and driving build thread here http://community.ratsun.net/topic/34966-winter-warrior/ [/thread jack] Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted October 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 Dude really? No mention of who drove 400 miles on the bumpers in my hard body to deliver said engine setup? Everybody already knows lol. Thank you, Cooody :) 1 Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted October 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 Taking a look at various bits of stuff here and there, the two fuel rails I have at my disposal will be pieced together into one good one. Probably going to give them a nice coat of paint and a bead blast though. I'm too anal to leave the corrosion there for me to gawk at. Picking up 4 new injectors at the end of the week, too. Not complaining for $50 a pop, including O-rings, without having to pay shipping with a decent warranty. And I can make payments on 'em (I love that I worked at a parts store :D) I'm going to pick up some Techron and clean up the FPR a bit, and the fuel rail. There are some nasties hanging out in the rails I have. Also found a wee little yellow jacket hiding out in the fuel rail. Apparently he didn't like his home and committed suicide, because he was dead. I mean, that's the LIFE right there, living in a fuel rail. Who'd a thunk it would be so stressful? But, project is moving forward. I hope to be driving it by the end of the month so I can take her on her maiden voyage to Salem/Albany for Halloween. =D Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted October 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 Update! Disconnected everything today, and had to quit earlier because my back wasn't handling it well. All I have to do is remove the transmission and driveshaft, hook the cherry picker up and remove the L20B to start cleaning up the engine bay, remove battery tray, and weld up the little holes everywhere. The question is, how to mount up the KA? Either I can drop the engine in as I would normally, go under and mount the transmission like I do with the L series setup, or do I put the engine and trans on a creeper, shove it under the body and drop the body onto the engine and trans and crossmember? Guess it depends on how high the cherry picker will go? Moving forward ---> :D 1 Quote Link to comment
Siqx20 Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 I say cut off ut rad support and go instraight from the front ;) Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted October 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 Eh, no. I'm not half-assing it. Lol. It would be easier to pull it straight up and out than it would be to do that anyways. Trick is to leave the motor mounts loose so you can tile the engine back to get the tranny in, snug the bottom bolts, secure engine - retighten upper bolts and voila, done. You know this, it was done to your truck. Where you been man? Quote Link to comment
Duke Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 You can also drop the engine and tranny in from the top. You need a load leveler for this but I find it much easier than trying to mate them up in the car. I have never tried putting it in from the bottom, but I have heard that it is pretty simple and quick that way. Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted October 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2011 I'm so used to doing it like I have been that it's pretty simple for me.. only took me 20 minutes to have it ready for pull. Another 5 to actually pull it. 10 for the transmission including driveshaft and drain. I've done it so many times I can do it with my eyes closed, I just hate getting under the car, I'm not a small guy so my jackstands get put on the 'high setting'. Yanked the motor and trans today. Along with it came the engine harness, and everything associated with it. I'm going to leave the brake lines and all that fancy stuff though, really don't want to deal with it. I'll just clean and paint around it, isn't going to bother me any. Radiator also came in. I'd give it 8/10 in terms of quality. Sure looks good though - I would have done a few things different but it works as it is, can't complain too much. Tomorrow I am going to start measuring and cutting so I can get it fitted in before the KA is installed. Oh, the obligatory pictures... Apparently this thread is useless with out OICS! Engine out, resting on old tire. It is happy at the moment.. Engine bay before I ripped out the harness and associated tidbits... New radiator assembled and ready for install... Dude, bro. Like SCHWING! Quote Link to comment
Siqx20 Posted October 13, 2011 Report Share Posted October 13, 2011 So su's go to me now plz? Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted October 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2011 We'll see, dear Brown. We'll see. Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted October 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 Got a small amount accomplished today. Removed the battery tray and disconnected the front cross-member and such. Doing it with everything still attached is a PITA! Think I can get away with removing the T/C rods and sliding the cross-member forward off the LCA's, and reverse for reinstall. Tomorrow will be crunch time, hopefully I can get my brother to come out and give me a hand. I'm hoping to get the engine bay cleaned up and painted tomorrow, and if everything goes great then I may even drop the KA in tomorrow as well - we'll see. I'm leaving that part to be most likely this weekend. As far as the radiator mounting, I think I can manage not cutting up the core support. Why they say you have to cut, I'm not quite sure. The new radiator is easily 3" shallower in height than the stock radiator, and fits perfectly fine without modifying the top of the core support. I'm going to enlarge the core support radiator opening about 4" wider (2" per side), and hug along the pressed out portion for the headlight buckets. If I have to, I'll take a bit of the scrap sheet metal and weld it into place for a little bit more strength. I can see the headlights moving if the engine torques the radiator, if the support loses it's rigidity. We'll see how it pans out tomorrow. I am also going to see about doing some rubber isolators for the radiator as well. Maybe small plastic washers on the engine side, and rubber grommets on the outside with large washers. This should in theory give it a small amount of flexibility. It IS aluminum, I don't think it'd like being solid mounted. The stock radiator mounts to external tabs brazed onto the tanks. I think this would be the ideal setup considering the aluminum radiator mounts with tapped pieced welded directly to the tanks... visions of stress cracks from vibration come to mind. Anybody ever used an old piece of rubber seal to seal a radiator to the core support? Quote Link to comment
Guest 510kamikazifreak Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 ka now Steve! Walking the "new" path :lol: Gonna be great,one day I will travel that path,but only when L motors are no longer in existance :lol: Ole school I am. 1 Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted October 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 Yeah, eh! Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted October 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 Filled up a few holes in the engine bay. Found out the hard way how thin the metal is there, even on the lowest setting I just blow right through it with the wire feed. :( Did however sand a bunch with an angle grinder and a stripper disc. Found a little bit of surface rust hanging out around the battery tray area. Then I got a little bit hyper and did more than I originally intended... oh well. So I have a few holes that are going to have to be plugged. I think the tray area holes are gonna have to be TIG filled. For now I'm not ever going to worry about it. Deal with it when the car gets painted... Mock fitted the radiator today also. Kind of ran into an issue I'm going to need some feedback on! The core support has pressed out areas for the headlight buckets. Now, to fit this rad, apparently you have to cut the core support up a bit. The radiator fits in there perfectly fine with lots of room - far more than the stock rad. But the mounting points for it, end up right on top of the pressed areas for the headlight buckets. But only the top mounts - so this would put the radiator in at an angle. I could space the bottom out to take up the gap so it's not in at a slant, or I could move the radiator up farther and trim some of the core support lip to fit it. I suppose this is why they say it has to be trimmed? Without trimming, the mounts would also be behind the buckets, so there may be some interference there. Oh yeah, some more crappy pictures. :D Here is the radiator, fitted where the top mounts interfere with the headlight buckets. I'll have to re-mock it in there after the engine is in to be sure as to how much clearance I will have with fan and pulleys. If I can get away from cutting the support, It would make me happier. I hate cutting unibody stuff... makes me leary :( Also found something out...on the core support, there are 3 number stamped into the sheet metal "9 1 1"... I am assuming this is the paint code? Mine doesn't have a paint code sticker so I've never known the exact paint code... does the 911 paint code come back to a dark green??? Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted October 15, 2011 Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 Also found something out...on the core support, there are 3 number stamped into the sheet metal "9 1 1"... I am assuming this is the paint code? Mine doesn't have a paint code sticker so I've never known the exact paint code... does the 911 paint code come back to a dark green??? 911 is the paint code and it comes back as just "Green" But the green on the swatch is pretty dark so I would say yes it is dark green. Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted October 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 Sweet. I learned something new today hehe. I didn't know they stamped the paint codes into the core support... interesting :D Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted October 15, 2011 Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 Not sure if this pertains to your radiator but TSR replaced one from CX Racing because the car kept overheating. The CX Racing radiator is supposed to be a copy of TSR's. I know Ron Davis makes TSR's radiators but Ron Davis wont sell a radiator unless you get permission from the original designer. If you do a search on Facebook for Datsunboys you will find their page and some pics of TSR's products. Here is the link to Datsunboys FB page http://www.facebook.com/datsunboys Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted October 15, 2011 Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 Sweet. I learned something new today hehe. I didn't know they stamped the paint codes into the core support... interesting :D not all... Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted October 15, 2011 Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 not all... My 72 core support is not stamped and it looks like the original. Quote Link to comment
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