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Shuuuuddddeeers


atkinson40

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I agree with all of the above. Another possibility might be that there was grease or something on the surfaces. If you put on new shoes and did not have the drums turned....I'd probably start with having them turned. :)

 

 

......actually.....I'd start with disc brakes! LOL! :)

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I agree with all of the above. Another possibility might be that there was grease or something on the surfaces. If you put on new shoes and did not have the drums turned....I'd probably start with having them turned. :)

 

 

......actually.....I'd start with disc brakes! LOL! :)

 

OK, I drove it again and the shudder is worse the last few feet of stopping. I don't feel it in the wheel, only in the brake peddle and my butt/thighs. I'll start with the rears and check again. -K

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OK, I drove it again and the shudder is worse the last few feet of stopping. I don't feel it in the wheel, only in the brake peddle and my butt/thighs. I'll start with the rears and check again. -K

 

 

you will often only get a wheel pulling if one side is hanging up and the other is fine(as in, the drivers side rotor is warped or there are caliper issues, but no problems on the passenger side).

 

Brake pulsation is most often caused by warped rotors...drums can cause this symptom, but is much more unusual. Check for rotor warp first...

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72 Dat PU doesn't have disk brakes ... I haven't run into this problem except with disk brakes.

 

MMMM....4 wheel drum...nice. I haven't worked on anything with them before...I do know I have seen another tech in the shop get stuck with a gremlin once that had them, and had brake shudder issues...turned out to be a nightmare getting all the shoes adjusted just right so that there was no shudder or pulse and so that the thing would stop straight. I guess check the adjustment on the shoes and look for warped drums...most likely the reason I see warped rotors causing brake shudder the most is because the newer cars we work on rely on front brakes to do the bulk of the stopping, and the people that heat their brakes up enough to warp the rotors tend to stop abruptly and do a nosedive...so the trucks and SUV's I see normally have 50% or more shoe left when the front pads are to the rivets.

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  • 2 weeks later...

should have done the fronts first.

 

adjustment???? there is a thumbler sat set up behind the plate where the brake line goes in youll see it. I think you turn it down screwdriver or a offset bent type ones work the best,to take up the slack.Most times if half way worn I would just get new pads also as they are cheap.

 

If new pads then youll loosen the starwheel. If drum is off youll see it and loosen it then. I usually loosen it enough to get the drum in just enough so when i do the last adjustment Im not spending too much time tighten up the star wheel.

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just enough so when i do the last adjustment Im not spending too much time tighten up the star wheel.

 

Thanks B. The "last adjustment" was what I was asking about. How far out do you adjust shoes. The book says something about until the wheel won't turn and then back off some number of turns. Its kinda vague. -K

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Turned front drums. Replaced front shoes while drums were off. No more shudders.

 

Still need to:

1. Go through lights.

2. Add oil to differential.

3. Fix rear license plate holder.

4. Take to Evens for a free flat repair(rear tire has slow leak).

5. Get alignment.

5. Register and insure.

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  • 1 month later...

This was a helpful thread.

 

I have a brake shudder from the front right drum. Plenty of ideas here to work with.

 

Thanks in advance!

 

(For whatever its worth, I've noticed that there is a difference between drums that have been adjusted cold vs drums that have been adjusted after driving for a little while. Of course, this could be a symptom of something else entirely, but I wanted to note it).

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