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Headers for the A14


barman1971

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I found Headers for my A14 . I think it was called Dans Datsun shoppe or something like that , but then i saw a thread somewhere saying they dont work, or that they are hard to put on, or something? Has anybody in Ratsun land tried dealing with these guys/ or installing them? Will i get any horse's out of them, or do i just go with stock manifold and a new Flow Master? What size should i be pricing out to get the most horsepower gain...

 

ps i want to be street legal on sound but i don't need to pass emissions in Oregon anymore:P

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IF so stay way clear!!!!!!!!!! I can show you what you will get for the $

 

1f6d4d2f.jpg

 

1. if you look at the header where is meets the head at the rear cylinder you can see where he heated the header up and pounded in a dent so he could get the nut on the stud to attach this "header". - bad for flow

 

2. look at the allen type bolts - they do nothing, they are welded in place and serve no function other than a plug. - they also block off about 25% of the flow in the bend

 

3. I dont have a pic of this but skunk, jassifrass and skib can vouch for it, the plate that the tubing is welded to is not flush, meaning that you will NEVER get a good seal between the header and the head. There was probably a pound of RTV used to seal it.

 

 

I bought this car from "jock" at bills datsun to rebuild with my bro and it was not what he represented it to be and the quality of the craftsmanship and the work its self was sub par

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i would not spend money on a header. not worth it for the amount of power your going to get. at most maybe three to four horse power and thats being generous. do invest in a straight thru exhaust. what mods do have right now?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Header is worth 3hp on stock A14 -- if you rejet the carb. If you leave the carb alone you lose 2hp.

 

Then again, carb jetting, advance curve and cam degreeing is worth 15hp. With the stock manifold.

 

ok dude, now you;re really reaching. carb jetting, advance curb and degreeing, worth 15hp? did you mean with side drafts maybe?

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Hot Rod and popular hot rodding did several japanese cars like B210, all gained huge amounts by careful detailing of jetting and advance curves, w/o any new parts like carb or cam.

 

Really? Do you have any more info on this? I'm kind of interested

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You can look up the B-210 A14 stuff at the library.

 

Here is an A12 tune by Motor Trend magazine: Supertune.

 

The Datsun 1200 or B-110 engine may be small, but ... a tuned 1200 can hang in there with the bigger 510 or 610 Datsun.

 

4971.jpg

dyno graph of stock (25 horsepower) versus tuned engine (38 horsepower)

 

Remember that all cars are rated in HP at the flywheel, so the RWHP may seem small. The Corolla they dyno'd at 27 HP.

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You can look up the B-210 A14 stuff at the library.

 

Here is an A12 tune by Motor Trend magazine: Supertune.

 

 

 

4971.jpg

dyno graph of stock (25 horsepower) versus tuned engine (38 horsepower)

 

Remember that all cars are rated in HP at the flywheel, so the RWHP may seem small. The Corolla they dyno'd at 27 HP.

 

ok. i new your source was going to be something like this. super farfetched magzine bloated horsepower numbers with 70's dyno ratings. i doubt that you can squeeze an extra 15 ponies with jetting, cam degreeing, and advance curving. i think that on a v8 these figures are realistic, but on our tiny little four bangers its really more like 4 or 5 horsepower from these mods and thats also being generous.

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Haha ... 25 HP total is bloated??? You are dreaming. Lots of dyno tests show something similar: not much HP due to production variances and/or out of tune from a year or two of driving.

 

Today's cars are rated with new SAE ratings and with EFI and higher quality and higher precision, most engines leave the factory with on the button ratings. It wasn't so in the 1970s, when production line variance was vast.

 

Conclusion: Tune your engine first before you start swapping parts. You might be surprised. Just ask metalmonkey. Last week his A-engine wouldn't rev over 5000 RPM. Today it's revving over 6000RPM. He didn't have to buy any go-fast parts to make his 15HP difference.

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Haha ... 25 HP total is bloated??? You are dreaming. Lots of dyno tests show something similar: not much HP due to production variances and/or out of tune from a year or two of driving.

 

Today's cars are rated with new SAE ratings and with EFI and higher quality and higher precision, most engines leave the factory with on the button ratings. It wasn't so in the 1970s, when production line variance was vast.

 

Conclusion: Tune your engine first before you start swapping parts. You might be surprised. Just ask metalmonkey. Last week his A-engine wouldn't rev over 5000 RPM. Today it's revving over 6000RPM. He didn't have to buy any go-fast parts to make his 15HP difference.

 

show me one member on here with dyno numbers that has gotten 25 ponies over a stock baseline from an A series engine, from jetting, cam degreeing, and advance curving.

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