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Completely lost on how to lower my 82 210


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So due to the EXTREME amount of information this site has to provide, its kinda stumped me on how to lower my 210.

 

I've seen several different way on how to lower the car but I dont know which method fit MY PARTICULAR CAR lol.

 

I'm looking for a pretty even drop 2in's or so....

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shorten the strut housings.

run shorter strut inserts

fabricate spring perches and use ground control sleeves and springs

raise the strut tower mounts

 

 

or just take a cut off wheel and cut a full coil out of your spring.

 

 

So it basically ALL involves welding besides cutting my factory spring?

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as far as I know if you want to go low on these old datsun, you can do it right, and that involves lots of work, or you can half-ass it and it'll be low and handle like crap.

 

you say you want 2in, but i suspect you want more, most people do. 2" isn't much. and once you go low you're gonna be bottoming out the struts.

 

I havent seen anything specifically for the 210, but I suppose you could just buy a sorta universal kit from ground control, that'll be adjustable height sleeves + springs . that'll give you some height adjustment and you could probably go decently low.

 

idk man, having a low car that handles like crap gets old real fast isaic.

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if anything, the b210 forum here at ratsun could at least point u in the direction of potentially swapable items with other models. maybe the lower ball joint is the same as the 510, then you can just swap spindles and struts from a lowered 510.

 

i dont know specifics sorry man, just trying to point u in a good direction. i saw your other thread, your 210 is clean.

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if anything, the b210 forum here at ratsun could at least point u in the direction of potentially swapable items with other models. maybe the lower ball joint is the same as the 510, then you can just swap spindles and struts from a lowered 510.

 

i dont know specifics sorry man, just trying to point u in a good direction. i saw your other thread, your 210 is clean.

 

 

Dang, we'll this is my first old school. So I guess it'll be a good learning experience tearing some stuff up :D

 

Thanks for the comment on my 210!

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The easiest way is to swap in 280ZX struts in the front. This gets you lower, MUCH bigger brakes, NO bottoming out, and better parts availability. The rear is just a matter of trimming the springs a bit. Shoot me a PM if you want info on the 280ZX strut swap. There is a way to do it with no welding.

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Here's what you need to do the job right. You can cut the springs, but is that REALLY how you wanna lower your car? Or do you wanna be able to brag that your car is slammed via coilovers, with the ability to adjust the height.

 

 

FRONT: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/28642-custom-coilovers-sunny-specific/

 

REAR: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/30153-my-home-built-rear-coilovers/

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Here's what you need to do the job right. You can cut the springs, but is that REALLY how you wanna lower your car? Or do you wanna be able to brag that your car is slammed via coilovers, with the ability to adjust the height.

 

 

FRONT: http://community.rat...sunny-specific/

 

REAR: http://community.rat...rear-coilovers/

 

 

I think I'm gunna try cut springs first. I'd rather be dissapointed I ruined free parts. The pay for a bunch of stuff and ruin it because I cant weld for shit.

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You can cut the springs, but is that REALLY how you wanna lower your car? Or do you wanna be able to brag that your car is slammed via coilovers, with the ability to adjust the height.

 

How often do you really need to adjust it? :P

 

And I'm not much of a bragger, so... ;)

 

And doing this to the 210 struts in front still doesn't address the problem. Even stock height 210s don't have enough suspension travel.

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How often do you really need to adjust it? :P

 

And I'm not much of a bragger, so... ;)

 

And doing this to the 210 struts in front still doesn't address the problem. Even stock height 210s don't have enough suspension travel.

 

 

Yeah I just found some 280zx struts i'll be able to use!

 

If I wanna brag, I'll brag about the drift car :P

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How often do you really need to adjust it? :P

 

And doing this to the 210 struts in front still doesn't address the problem. Even stock height 210s don't have enough suspension travel.

 

Ask PPK laugh.gif His height is different every time he takes a oicture

 

 

I kinda like the stock height of the B310. It could stand to be an inch or so lower, but it's not too bad.

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  • 1 month later...

Cutting a coil out will increase the spring rate and reduce suspension travel at the same time. As long as you exercise some restraint you shouldn't have any problems with this. If you want mega lowering then you will need to modify the strut length and fit a shorter cartridge inside.

 

ZX struts do not just drop in. First of all the springs won't fit so you will need to remove them and cut off the lower spring mounts. At this point you can choose to install coil overs but you will need a coil that is firm enough to support the weight of the car and allow some suspension travel without being rock hard. Coil overs are over rated, expensive and a crap shoot to see if it gives you the ride you want. It's mostly trial and error for picking springs because everyone's car rides differently, weighs differently and the owners want different things. You can't very well select a spring based on someone else's preference. Coil overs are adjustable, but who goes out and adjusts their ride height every day/week/month? Once you get your car where you want it you will likely leave it there, just like a rear view mirror. I would say that the lower you go the stiffer the spring. As you are sitting closer to the pavement you want less suspension travel to prevent bottoming out the body and also the strut cartridge.

 

What I did was remove the Maxima spring and lower spring mount using an angle grinder. (no welding) I cut my 710 spring mount off as well and slipped onto the Maxima strut and installed the 710 spring on top of it. (shortened about 1 1/2 coils so it was the same unloaded length as the Maxima spring, also no welding) This shortening increased the spring rate from about 100 pounds to 150 pounds, or the same as the Maxima spring. You can't use the Maxima or zx spring because it is way too large a diameter to fit up inside most strut towers. To hold and support the lower spring mount I used a bolt on split collar which grips the strut tube just below the spring mount. You can compress the spring upward and move the collar and re-clamp it, let the vehicle down and check the ride height. Repeat untill you get it where you want. Pictures...

 

 

Remove the springs first, then a little trim above the weld. Lower mount slides off.

strutmods004Large-1.jpg

strutmods005Large-1.jpg

strutmods006Large.jpg

 

You will need to grind the tube smooth where the old weld was.

 

 

710 strut, top. 210 probably similar.

Maxima strut below, zx similar

 

1TBexternalharddrive011Large.jpg

 

710 and Maxima springs. The 710 was cut to match the Maxima spring length

struts006Large.jpg

 

Here's the trick.... The adjustable split collar about $10 each. Clamp to the strut tube and assemble the spring.

 

strutmods010Large.jpg

 

 

 

 

This is for replacing the strut to upgrade the caliper and rotor, but you could do the same cheaper and easier (and no welding) by just keeping the 210 strut and shortening the spring. The split collar gives you some height adjustment. The cut spring gives you a firmer ride and reduced travel. As I said before, don't go over board with this. It's just for a couple of inches of drop.

 

 

Before I forget, some struts don't have cartridges in them but do have a valve assembly submerged in hydraulic fluid which is basically hydraulic jack oil. This can easily be dismantled and the old 5W oil removed. I replaced with 20W motorcycle fork oil for added damping which is preferred on a dropped body to reduce the chance of bottoming out.

 

The front is much firmer from the cut spring and well damped. I am very happy with it and it was a comfortable 400 mile drive to Canby.

 

The 210 has coils in the back so you have to cut both springs a 1/4 or 1/2 coil at a time and lower the car down and see the results. Don't get carried away because you can't put it back on if you take too much off.

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The main problem with the 210 struts is that the strut tube is so long, that you can't really lower the car at all. I put z car struts in my 210 and I have to adjust my spring all the way to the top of the 7" collar to get 1" lower than stock ride height. (yes camber is off, but that should be remedied with camber plates)

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  • 4 years later...

Cutting a coil out will increase the spring rate and reduce suspension travel at the same time. As long as you exercise some restraint you shouldn't have any problems with this. If you want mega lowering then you will need to modify the strut length and fit a shorter cartridge inside.

 

ZX struts do not just drop in. First of all the springs won't fit so you will need to remove them and cut off the lower spring mounts. At this point you can choose to install coil overs but you will need a coil that is firm enough to support the weight of the car and allow some suspension travel without being rock hard. Coil overs are over rated, expensive and a crap shoot to see if it gives you the ride you want. It's mostly trial and error for picking springs because everyone's car rides differently, weighs differently and the owners want different things. You can't very well select a spring based on someone else's preference. Coil overs are adjustable, but who goes out and adjusts their ride height every day/week/month? Once you get your car where you want it you will likely leave it there, just like a rear view mirror. I would say that the lower you go the stiffer the spring. As you are sitting closer to the pavement you want less suspension travel to prevent bottoming out the body and also the strut cartridge.

 

What I did was remove the Maxima spring and lower spring mount using an angle grinder. (no welding) I cut my 710 spring mount off as well and slipped onto the Maxima strut and installed the 710 spring on top of it. (shortened about 1 1/2 coils so it was the same unloaded length as the Maxima spring, also no welding) This shortening increased the spring rate from about 100 pounds to 150 pounds, or the same as the Maxima spring. You can't use the Maxima or zx spring because it is way too large a diameter to fit up inside most strut towers. To hold and support the lower spring mount I used a bolt on split collar which grips the strut tube just below the spring mount. You can compress the spring upward and move the collar and re-clamp it, let the vehicle down and check the ride height. Repeat untill you get it where you want. Pictures...

 

 

Remove the springs first, then a little trim above the weld. Lower mount slides off.

strutmods004Large-1.jpg

strutmods005Large-1.jpg

strutmods006Large.jpg

 

You will need to grind the tube smooth where the old weld was.

 

 

710 strut, top. 210 probably similar.

Maxima strut below, zx similar

 

1TBexternalharddrive011Large.jpg

 

710 and Maxima springs. The 710 was cut to match the Maxima spring length

struts006Large.jpg

 

Here's the trick.... The adjustable split collar about $10 each. Clamp to the strut tube and assemble the spring.

 

strutmods010Large.jpg

 

 

 

 

This is for replacing the strut to upgrade the caliper and rotor, but you could do the same cheaper and easier (and no welding) by just keeping the 210 strut and shortening the spring. The split collar gives you some height adjustment. The cut spring gives you a firmer ride and reduced travel. As I said before, don't go over board with this. It's just for a couple of inches of drop.

 

 

Before I forget, some struts don't have cartridges in them but do have a valve assembly submerged in hydraulic fluid which is basically hydraulic jack oil. This can easily be dismantled and the old 5W oil removed. I replaced with 20W motorcycle fork oil for added damping which is preferred on a dropped body to reduce the chance of bottoming out.

 

The front is much firmer from the cut spring and well damped. I am very happy with it and it was a comfortable 400 mile drive to Canby.

 

The 210 has coils in the back so you have to cut both springs a 1/4 or 1/2 coil at a time and lower the car down and see the results. Don't get carried away because you can't put it back on if you take too much off.

Sorry for bumping an old thread. But this Split collar thing is verry interesting.. Few questions, does the spring have to be cut? My ride is pretty stiff as it sits now. And how mutch can I lower a 240z using Split collars?

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Do some searching on here. This is a very popular method of lowering around these parts. The info you need is around, you just need to hunt for it. If you have your z, just take a tape measure and get under your car. Shouldn't be hard to figure it out. Cutting springs is not required, just often reasonable. If you already have stiff springs you might be fine.

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