Kisor Posted January 6, 2012 Report Share Posted January 6, 2012 Oic, just a thought. BTW, I have a set of 50mm spacers only used for maybe 5000 miles if that would help. Quote Link to comment
jaime.g Posted January 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2012 Yes, I already have zx parts. I think 50mm spacers are too thick for the wheels that I plan to use on the front, but thanks for offering. I'm up quite early today so I'll soon start on getting the matchbox dizzy in. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted January 7, 2012 Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 Why not do S13 front suspension? They can handle just about any wheel combo you want and have tons of brake upgrade potential. FWIW, stock-for-stock the 280ZX brakes are bigger than the S13. And it's tough to beat a "bolt-in" solution like the 280ZX. There's no bolt-in solution for the S13 swap. Also, FYI there's a lot of brake upgrade kits out there for the 280ZX too. ;) Quote Link to comment
jaime.g Posted January 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2012 I didn't get anything done this weekend. was bored, so I learned how to change the color of a car in gimp. The original color of my b210 was light blue, so I'm thinking when I do get around to painting it, it should be light blue, but something maybe a bit lighter. i don't like the wheels below, just thinking about color options. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 That stock B210 color was Turquois. A baby blue will look less 1970s. Quote Link to comment
CWhip Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 That stock B210 color was Turquois. A baby blue will look less 1970s. Cmon now zilla, it's POWDER blue. :D Quote Link to comment
king bee66 Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 That stock B210 color was Turquois. A baby blue will look less 1970s. that rim color, that was stock though, right? 1 Quote Link to comment
jaime.g Posted January 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 Don't buy a new cap, it won't help. It's normal for the cap contact (inside ones) to be oxidized. If the external wire contacts are oxidized, that's caused by misfiring, possibly a bad plug wire. Fit the matchbox. It is so much better. You don't need a new coil. Just do this: Hopefully you have a bit of the matchbox wiring harness (black and blue wires) but if not, it goes like this: B - goes to 12V IGN (e.g. Resistor as above) C - goes to coil NEG terminal Update: Still not able to start the car but if I hold the throttle down and pump it it kind of "deisels" but does not rev. So I went ahead and swapped to an EL distributor. I tried to set the motor to 5degrees btdc but I was like... ...and then I was like, "ahhhh" anyway, I made sure that the rotor lead was facing approximately 2 o clock (to the front of the motor) and stabbed it successfully after a few attempts with the reluctors? all matching up as close as I could get them (nearly perfect). But I do have a question on the wiring portion as I don't have the B/C harness: Do I need to re-arrange any current wires that are hooked up to the transistor and coil and simply add the two wires going to B and C? All I changed with the wiring was I added the two wires for B and C as indicated in the diagram, but I left all other wires hooked up as they were before. I did not want to try and start it and pop any fuses or worse, start a fire. Here are some oics: Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 21, 2012 Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 The "transistor" is the black matchbox on the side of the new EI distributor. Wire it up like in the diagram. Quote Link to comment
jaime.g Posted November 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2013 bringing this post back from the dead. This car has sat ever since I parked it in my driveway awaiting an sr20det swap, s110 h190, and 280zx brakes/struts. I have decided against the drivetrain swap all together and figure that I should just get the stock engine running and just drive the thing. The engine was rebuilt back in 2002 right before it got parked and no one was able to drive it for the past 11 years. I just haven't had the time to pay it any attention lately. I've been thinking more about this car the past couple of weeks and decided to get off my butt and do something about it. I should probably mention that I shouldn't have swapped out the distributor as the starting issue is likely gunked up jets in the carb from sitting so long as the engine would start and run on starting fluid only. Either way, I went to the junkyard today and got the matching 210 coil and matchbox harness which will make wiring the electronic distributor easier as I couldn't figure out the wiring (pretty bad considering i've wired up a 1jz into a cressida before). I ordered a carb rebuild kit from oreilly's for the dch306 and when I got home I verified that the carb in the car is a holley remanufactured hitachi unit part #64-9325. The only bad thing I noticed is that on this carb there is no glass window on the front to see the fuel float level. There is a spot for the window, but it seems as though it got replaced with a solid piece or maybe even painted over.. I'm thinking this will cause me trouble as I read something about needing to check that when adjusting the carb (as referenced here ( http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Carburetor_Adjustment#What_to_Check_First_-_Float_Level ). I guess I'll have to wait and see once I get the rebuild kit tomorrow. Hopefully I'll be able to post more frequent updates on this car in the near future. Quote Link to comment
bullitt210 Posted November 7, 2013 Report Share Posted November 7, 2013 ^^^Do eeeet!!! Quote Link to comment
jaime.g Posted November 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2013 I started work on cleaning up the carb today. One of the jets was definitely clogged. I've never rebuilt one before so this is a great learning experience. One resource that was helpful in this was http://datsun510.com/manuals/ which has a lot of old datsun repair/maintenance manuals including a 1200 FSM. I could not finish the carb reassembly today as I found out that I'm missing a few parts: 1. The carb kit I got did not come with o rings for the venturis and I also realized that only one of the two venturis actually had an o ring installed :-/ 2. There is a spring, lock washer, and washer that I am missing for the pump. (indicated as 3,4 and 5 on the instructions) 3. A screen fuel filter that goes in between the needle, seat and gasket assembly and the bowl cover assembly. I'm not too sure how quickly I'll be able to source the parts I'm missing considering I didn't find any dch306 carburetors at the two major junk yards here in San Antonio this past weekend. Quote Link to comment
jaime.g Posted November 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 It's been an exciting day today as I've made a little progress with the b210. I found the missing return spring and washers for the accelerator pump at the junkyard which I pulled from an 82 pulsar. I love how junk yards don't charge for small parts such as this. I also found out that my carburetor does have a float window, it was simply really gunked up that I could not see through it. Yesterday and today I was able to get the rebuilt carburetor installed as well as properly wire up the electronic distributor correctly. I ended up wiring it up via the method shown below in the diagram. I will note that I did not have a black/red wire, but a black/blue wire which I'm assuming was the ignition wire. I removed about 5 gallons of gas from over 2 years ago (see post #25 of this thread) which smelled like varnish. Placed about a gallon of fresh gas in and to my surprised it started up and was actually able to idle! I'm quite surprised that it did considering I've never taken apart a carb before. Some bad gas is still coming through as the tank needs another rinsing. I would say that I had the car running for a total of about 10 minutes today, enough to get it to warm up and when it did, it would not idle. At the time of it not idling though, I did notice that the wiring connector for the anti-deiseling soldenoid came undone (bad soldering) so this could be the cause as per http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Carburettor_Diagnosis#Engine_Won.27t_Idle I cleaned up the vacuum wiring a bit: 1. Hooked up vacuum advance directly 2. Eliminated TCVAS, disconnected line for egr and capped. 3. Disconnected belt for air pump and removed/capped hoses. I found the following article helpful for what can be eliminated http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Throttle_Opener#Which_controls_can_be_eliminated.3F I found the oil pressure light would not go off once I got the engine started which had me worried. My neighbor luckily had a oil pressure gauge that we hooked up to verify oil pressure is definitely healthy. 30psi at idle to upwards of 60 psi at higher revs. Turns out the wire came off of the oil pressure sender shortly after. More wiring work to do. I also found out that my brake lights work when I walked around the car, unfortunately no one was in the driver's seat. Time to source a gummy bear for the brake pedal switch. Next time I work on the car I will fix the anti-dieseling wiring, oil pressure switch, and try and get the idle and timing set. Quote Link to comment
jaime.g Posted February 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2014 Picked up some dirty slots! 14x7 +13 easily clears z brakes. Oh and this thing.. I ended up having valve train issues with the a14 so this will have to do. I think I should be able to get away with not having to upgrade the rear end and leave the h150 and see how it goes. If anyone needs a14 engine/trans stuff I should be parting that out soon. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 13, 2014 Report Share Posted February 13, 2014 What is that thing ,too small for me to see. You have Z brakes on your B210? Or ZX brakes? Quote Link to comment
jaime.g Posted February 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2014 Sorry for the pic size. I'm on my phone and decided to try image shack for image hosting. Might have to click on the link for bigger pics. The motor is a 13b with a Holley carb. I mean zx brakes, which are yet to be installed as I needed wheels to clear. Quote Link to comment
Sierra Posted February 13, 2014 Report Share Posted February 13, 2014 Where are you? I might me interested in the A14 and Tran. Depending on distance. Quote Link to comment
jaime.g Posted February 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 San antonio Quote Link to comment
jaime.g Posted June 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2015 Got around to placing the 13b in the engine bay so I can work on fabbing up some mounts. I've already cut off the A14 engine mount horns. I found out that I'll need to cut and flip the b210 crossmember first as the 13b I'm using is front sump. The front sump at the moment is laying on top of the forward portion of the crossmember. 1 Quote Link to comment
jaime.g Posted February 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 i've decided to sell off/part out the datsun b210 project. If anyone needs anything here, let me know. Quote Link to comment
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