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My 76 B210 (2nd owner)


jaime.g

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Why not do S13 front suspension? They can handle just about any wheel combo you want and have tons of brake upgrade potential.

 

FWIW, stock-for-stock the 280ZX brakes are bigger than the S13. And it's tough to beat a "bolt-in" solution like the 280ZX. There's no bolt-in solution for the S13 swap.

 

Also, FYI there's a lot of brake upgrade kits out there for the 280ZX too. ;)

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I didn't get anything done this weekend. was bored, so I learned how to change the color of a car in gimp. The original color of my b210 was light blue, so I'm thinking when I do get around to painting it, it should be light blue, but something maybe a bit lighter.

 

beta.jpg

 

 

 

 

i don't like the wheels below, just thinking about color options.

 

blue-yellowb210.JPG

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  • 2 weeks later...

Don't buy a new cap, it won't help. It's normal for the cap contact (inside ones) to be oxidized. If the external wire contacts are oxidized, that's caused by misfiring, possibly a bad plug wire.

 

Fit the matchbox. It is so much better.

 

You don't need a new coil. Just do this:

23408.jpg

Hopefully you have a bit of the matchbox wiring harness (black and blue wires) but if not, it goes like this:

 

B - goes to 12V IGN (e.g. Resistor as above)

C - goes to coil NEG terminal

24020.jpg

 

 

Update: Still not able to start the car but if I hold the throttle down and pump it it kind of "deisels" but does not rev. So I went ahead and swapped to an EL distributor. I tried to set the motor to 5degrees btdc but I was like...

 

 

crank.jpg

 

 

...and then I was like, "ahhhh"

 

crankmark.jpg

 

 

 

anyway, I made sure that the rotor lead was facing approximately 2 o clock (to the front of the motor) and stabbed it successfully after a few attempts with the reluctors? all matching up as close as I could get them (nearly perfect).

 

But I do have a question on the wiring portion as I don't have the B/C harness:

 

Do I need to re-arrange any current wires that are hooked up to the transistor and coil and simply add the two wires going to B and C? All I changed with the wiring was I added the two wires for B and C as indicated in the diagram, but I left all other wires hooked up as they were before.

 

I did not want to try and start it and pop any fuses or worse, start a fire.

 

 

Here are some oics:

coil.jpg

 

dizzy.jpg

dizzy2.jpg

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  • 1 year later...

bringing this post back from the dead.

 

This car has sat ever since I parked it in my driveway awaiting an sr20det swap, s110 h190, and 280zx brakes/struts. I have decided against the drivetrain swap all together and figure that I should just get the stock engine running and just drive the thing. The engine was rebuilt back in 2002 right before it got parked and no one was able to drive it for the past 11 years.

 

I just haven't had the time to pay it any attention lately. I've been thinking more about this car the past couple of weeks and decided to get off my butt and do something about it. I should probably mention that I shouldn't have swapped out the distributor as the starting issue is likely gunked up jets in the carb from sitting so long as the engine would start and run on starting fluid only. Either way, I went to the junkyard today and got the matching 210 coil and matchbox harness which will make wiring the electronic distributor easier as I couldn't figure out the wiring (pretty bad considering i've wired up a 1jz into a cressida before). I ordered a carb rebuild kit from oreilly's for the dch306 and when I got home I verified that the carb in the car is a holley remanufactured hitachi unit part #64-9325. The only bad thing I noticed is that on this carb there is no glass window on the front to see the fuel float level. There is a spot for the window, but it seems as though it got replaced with a solid piece or maybe even painted over.. I'm thinking this will cause me trouble as I read something about needing to check that when adjusting the carb (as referenced here ( http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Carburetor_Adjustment#What_to_Check_First_-_Float_Level ). 

 

I guess I'll have to wait and see once I get the rebuild kit tomorrow. Hopefully I'll be able to post more frequent updates on this car in the near future.

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I started work on cleaning up the carb today. One of the jets was definitely clogged. I've never rebuilt one before so this is a great learning experience. One resource that was helpful in this was http://datsun510.com/manuals/ which has a lot of old datsun repair/maintenance manuals including a 1200 FSM.



carb1.JPG
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I could not finish the carb reassembly today as I found out that I'm missing a few parts:

 

1. The carb kit I got did not come with o rings for the venturis and I also realized that only one of the two venturis actually had an o ring installed :-/
venturis.JPG

venturis2.JPG

clean1.JPG

 

 

2. There is a spring, lock washer, and washer that I am missing for the pump. (indicated as 3,4 and 5 on the instructions)

3. A screen fuel filter that goes in between the needle, seat and gasket assembly and the bowl cover assembly.

 

 

missing_parts.jpg

 

 

I'm not too sure how quickly I'll be able to source the parts I'm missing considering I didn't find any dch306 carburetors at the two major junk yards here in San Antonio this past weekend.

 

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It's been an exciting day today as I've made a little progress with the b210.

 

I found the missing return spring and washers for the accelerator pump at the junkyard which I pulled from an 82 pulsar. I love how junk yards don't charge for small parts such as this. I also found out that my carburetor does have a float window, it was simply really gunked up that I could not see through it. 

 

 carb8.jpg

 

Yesterday and today I was able to get the rebuilt carburetor installed as well as properly wire up the electronic distributor correctly. I ended up wiring it up via the method shown below in the diagram. I will note that I did not have a black/red wire, but a black/blue wire which I'm assuming was the ignition wire.

 

23998.jpg

 

I removed about 5 gallons of gas from over 2 years ago (see post #25 of this thread) which smelled like varnish. Placed about a gallon of fresh gas in and to my surprised it started up and was actually able to idle! I'm quite surprised that it did considering I've never taken apart a carb before. 

 

Some bad gas is still coming through as the tank needs another rinsing. I would say that I had the car running for a total of about 10 minutes today, enough to get it to warm up and when it did, it would not idle. At the time of it not idling though, I did notice that the wiring connector for the anti-deiseling soldenoid came undone (bad soldering) so this could be the cause as per http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Carburettor_Diagnosis#Engine_Won.27t_Idle

 

 

I cleaned up the vacuum wiring a bit:

 

1. Hooked up vacuum advance directly

2. Eliminated TCVAS, disconnected line for egr and capped.

3. Disconnected belt for air pump and removed/capped hoses.

 

I found the following article helpful for what can be eliminated http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Throttle_Opener#Which_controls_can_be_eliminated.3F

 

I found the oil pressure light would not go off once I got the engine started which had me worried. My neighbor luckily had a oil pressure gauge that we hooked up to verify oil pressure is definitely healthy. 30psi at idle to upwards of 60 psi at higher revs. Turns out the wire came off of the oil pressure sender shortly after. More wiring work to do.

 

I also found out that my brake lights work when I walked around the car, unfortunately no one was in the driver's seat. Time to source a gummy bear for the brake pedal switch. 

 

Next time I work on the car I will fix the anti-dieseling wiring, oil pressure switch, and try and get the idle and timing set.

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  • 3 months later...

Picked up some dirty slots! 14x7 +13 easily clears z brakes.

DA876BA0-2653-4D52-B71B-C816333D2979.jpg

 

C6CED9F8-DDF6-43E5-AD9E-6AC1F7630BE8.jpg

 

Oh and this thing..

8E0259F4-8295-42B7-9D3E-D11D6FA42B01.jpg

 

349A1CF6-FA5F-4EA6-8670-891288F1CEE9.jpg

 

I ended up having valve train issues with the a14 so this will have to do. I think I should be able to get away with not having to upgrade the rear end and leave the h150 and see how it goes. If anyone needs a14 engine/trans stuff I should be parting that out soon.

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Sorry for the pic size. I'm on my phone and decided to try image shack for image hosting. Might have to click on the link for bigger pics. The motor is a 13b with a Holley carb.

 

I mean zx brakes, which are yet to be installed as I needed wheels to clear.

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  • 1 year later...

Got around to placing the 13b in the engine bay so I can work on fabbing up some mounts. I've already cut off the A14 engine mount horns. I found out that I'll need to cut and flip the b210 crossmember first as the 13b I'm using is front sump. The front sump at the moment is laying on top of the forward portion of the crossmember. 

 

 

 

IMG_8114.jpg

 

13bhoisted.JPG

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13bfrontcover.JPG

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  • 1 year later...

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