shacks510 Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 Or we can trade wheels :) 16x7 et0 will fit Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted November 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Welp, progress is progress. Pulled the LZ22 out today, and S13 to 510 coilover conversion is complete! Now I just have to do the fronts. Im thinking about using S13 knuckle with a 510 bumpsteer spacer welded to the bottom.. mainly for the brake setup, but I also want to bring the front wheels in a bit.. I wanted to do S13 arms originally, but it looks to be too much trouble for what its worth. Finished product ( I finished machining the spacer between the tophat and the spring) full droop Look at that clearance!! I'll get to that later lol. To do: Chop/flip X member Drop KA in Better radiator Add sump to gas tank Plumb return line Wire KA Disc brakes in the back Adapt S13 coils to front Better brakes up front Fire up and drive. I buttoned up the KA last week, i ran into some issues with the chain tensioner interfering with the timing cover, super weird. Ive dealt with lots of KAs and have never had this problem. I took a file to the outside of it and took off maybe .100in of material and now its good. 2 Quote Link to comment
r0p0doe Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Look at that clearance!! I'll get to that later lol. Air hammer... Quote Link to comment
datson4life Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Sick! What kind of itbs are those? Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted March 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2016 Alright, some progress made. Moved the car to my shop, painted the trunk and frame rails with POR-15 (gnarly stuff) and made some more parts in the machine shop, ANNNNNNNNNNND Finally dropped the engine in!! after a year and a lot of careful planning. I was going to use this engine in my drift car at first, but my girl (at the time) convinced me to stop letting the 510 sit lol. annnnnnd photodump 1 Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted March 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2016 Took about 4 hours of hitting it with a wire wheel to get it to bare metal. The old enamel paint wasnt having it. I also took the old cracked seam sealer off, gonna have to seal it up later. About 2-3 years ago I bought some "ZX" struts at a swap meet, I found out the hardway they werent ZX shocks. In pursuit of more lows, and for maximum suspension travel, I went with VW rabbit shocks. I was too lazy to cut the strut tube down further, especially since this is only a temporary setup till I finish the 240sx spindle conversion. I made a spacer out of aircraft grade Aluminum to take up the 3 inches of body difference compared to the ZX shock insert. I also made a steel bushing so I can use the Tein tophats. I still have to buy the T3 spring tops that have the bearings however, I dont want it to bind. This is a high comp ITB KA, Early KA flat tops, port and polish, dual 248s, headers, E85 etc. Everything on this block is brand new. I mean, might as well since I had access to a machine shop. Im breaking it in with the stock ECU and stock components, once i break the engine in, I'll run the Megasquirt I have setup for it. I didnt want to dick around with a base tune and have the rings seat at the same time. Id hate to come this far only wash the rings on first start up LOL. All plumbed and ready to go! Just gotta wire it up and weld the exhaust. One thing that concerns me is the engine position, I feel like it sits too far forward and too high. I could slot the motor mounts, or make new ones. Still weighing my options. 1 Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted March 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2016 And heres the wiring for the KA, I simplified it to my liking 2 Quote Link to comment
fisch Posted March 25, 2016 Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 nice progress. You make me think i will get back on my neglected projects. 1 Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted March 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 nice progress. You make me think i will get back on my neglected projects. Fisch!! Havent heard from you in a while, hows the drawing and stuff going? Ive neglected this car for 2 years, it feels good being back in a Datsun 1 Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted March 27, 2016 Report Share Posted March 27, 2016 Holy fucking progress batman!!! 1 Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted April 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2016 Worked on my ITB manifold today at the machine shop.. old water neck was corroded, so i pressed out the old one. Still gotta tig weld it tho The motor mount broke with just the engine sitting on it, so since I was unhappy with the position of the engine, im making new mounts. Ill make the engine sit farther back and lower, if this is a success ill share the CAD drawings so you guys can make them as well. 4 Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted April 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2016 Here are some better pics since my iphone camera is shit, and since all i can do is take pictures till the end of the semester 1 Quote Link to comment
r0p0doe Posted April 26, 2016 Report Share Posted April 26, 2016 Here are some better pics since my iphone camera is shit, and since all i can do is take pictures till the end of the semester I need that sticker 1 Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted April 26, 2016 Report Share Posted April 26, 2016 That wiring mess........been there. What's the specs on the KA? I've been collecting parts for a similar build and I'm interested what you did piston/cam wise. Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted April 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2016 That wiring mess........been there. What's the specs on the KA? I've been collecting parts for a similar build and I'm interested what you did piston/cam wise. OEM Early KA flat tops, shotpeened rods, im not entirely sure what cams i want to go with just yet. Im breaking it in with the stock cams 248/232. Once the standalone is running on a base tune ill start messing with ideal cam setups, the cam is kinda crucial at this point, to take advantage of the ported/polished head and the ITBs. Ive read the dual 248 cams are great! But i think i want to go with a 300° but that would make it a bit unstreetable. Ive still got to read up on cam timing 1 Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted April 27, 2016 Report Share Posted April 27, 2016 Nice, I'm hoping I can go thru with my entire plan of making an intake and spacing the itb's out to match. Quote Link to comment
shacks510 Posted April 28, 2016 Report Share Posted April 28, 2016 I need that sticker I was going to say the same. Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted May 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2016 https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B48-OgufLIKjWWZEUTdGMnE4ZDg Im on my phone, welp Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted May 6, 2016 Report Share Posted May 6, 2016 3d printed stacks? I hope you used a high temp filament. 2 Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted May 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2016 3d printed stacks? I hope you used a high temp filament. These are mockups. Regular PLA, I'm building an airbox and wrapping them in aluminum tape, I'm running tests to see if they hold up to engine bay heat, i put one of these stacks in the engine bay on the intake side of my RX-8 and drove in traffic about 30 or so miles, without aluminum tape it didn't distort at all, until I put it over the exhaust side. I'm gonna leave the aluminum wrapped unit over the exhaust in for a few days. I'll report back if anything is left lol. New filament is a last resort, I'm using the one at school and it's a miracle they let me use it, print for all 4 took 17 hours Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted May 6, 2016 Report Share Posted May 6, 2016 These are mockups. Regular PLA, I'm building an airbox and wrapping them in aluminum tape, I'm running tests to see if they hold up to engine bay heat, i put one of these stacks in the engine bay on the intake side of my RX-8 and drove in traffic about 30 or so miles, without aluminum tape it didn't distort at all, until I put it over the exhaust side. I'm gonna leave the aluminum wrapped unit over the exhaust in for a few days. I'll report back if anything is left lol. New filament is a last resort, I'm using the one at school and it's a miracle they let me use it, print for all 4 took 17 hours You can print with higher temp PLA. Or use the part to make a mold and cast in with resin. 1 Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted May 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 Well after some inspiration (thanks draker!) I redesigned my velocity stacksPrinting with protopasta high temp PLA. These are a lot thicker and shouldn't warp. At 100°c it doesn't warp or distort, it does get a little flexible (or so I read).Because I was worried about the stacks failing due to heat, I wrapped my spare velocity stack with aluminum tape, and drove around for a few days, in traffic with a 26 mile commute in partial traffic. it warped a bit less than the first time (without Alu tape), which tells me either the aluminum tape did a REALLY good job at reflecting engine bay heat, or engine bay heat is pretty close to the point in temperature that PLA deforms at.PLA deforms at 60-65°CProtopastas HTPLA claims to deform at 140° CWe'll see what happens(I'll take a pic of the test stack) 1 Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted May 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 I also made some motor mounts, the skateboard bushing is temporary, I think. We'll see (edit i derped on one of them, I slotted in the wrong direction. Well now I can tilt the tranny and engine to drain oil easier?? Whatever) Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted May 9, 2016 Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 nice work! The one thing with protopasta is that when you bake it to set, it will shrink. Just plan for that in your design... or just don't bake them and let the engine bay do the work. I did a few tests with protopasta and it is definitely more resistant to heat. 1 Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted May 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 Heres the updated version of the velocity stacks. I still have to sand them smooth on a lathe, i also made a heat shield. im going to have a tube directing outside air to these 1 Quote Link to comment
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