barman1971 Posted April 30, 2011 Report Share Posted April 30, 2011 first understand that i come from the world of old school air cooled VW's. so if this sounds stupid i understand that. Is there a centrifical advance distributor instead of my silly vacume system? it seems like my spark is not right.. either good at idiol, or good at rpm but cant seem to nail it down in the " sweet spot" i have the manuall and .18 to.22 is deffinatly not the spot for my engine.. im bafalled... I though i had carb problwms but now i dont know maybe is a combo of my carb and distributor? i found this car in a bar so there is really no telling how long any of this stufff has sat or how long its been in the car. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted April 30, 2011 Report Share Posted April 30, 2011 Yes, it has a centripetal advance right below the points/pickup(for elec dizzy) Can you describe the problem in greater detail? Quote Link to comment
barman1971 Posted April 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2011 When i set the point gap to .18 or .19 my car will not even idle. when i set it higher it idles ok but then if i step on the gas the rpms actually fall and the motor hesitates like its not getting fuel or spark. There are sort of flat spots in the power band. When i first got the car running it was really only in one spot on the throttle so i figured the carb. But now after i replaced the plugs, points, and condenser it seems that i can move the flat spot around but adjusting the point gap. hmmmm. so i thing its the distributor now? but no matter were i set the gap all the way from .15 to wide open i can not get all the things i expect. idle, run through the power band , and even acceleration? new carb? new distributor? new exhaust? were do i start? please help me.... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 30, 2011 Report Share Posted April 30, 2011 Is there a centrifical advance distributor instead of my silly vacume system? Your dizzy has three types of advance. Static timing: this is dialed in with a timing light at idle. Yout static advance is locked in and never changes. Usually 10-12 degrees Vacuum advance: There is zero vacuum advance at idle but vacuum is supplied just above idle from a port on the side of the carb. The vacuum advance is load dependent and becomes lower and lower as the throttle is opened. Usually 0 to 20 degrees Mechanical advance: Using centrifugal force against weights and springs, this advance begins at or about 1,000-1,500 rpms and maxes out before 3,000 rpm. Usually 0 to 20 degrees. All three are absolutely essential for proper running, performance and economy for street driving. Be sure to check your valve lash before setting the carb mixture and idle. Set idle mixture and idle speed. Set timing. If problem persists, check the vacuum advance by removing the cap to expose the rotor. Suck on the hose to the vacuum advance and check that the rotor turns clockwise and holds until you release it. Vacuum advance is presumed to be working. Engine off. Look down the carb and pump the throttle. You should observe a strong squirt of fuel from the accelerator pump into the primary. Without this, engine will stumble just above idle when the throttle is opened suddenly. Primary jet is partially plugged causing a lean condition. Lean fuel mixtures like lots of spark advance so maybe this is why you could move the problem around by changing the points gap. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted May 1, 2011 Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 The simple solution here is to throw the points dizzy in the trash and replace it with a later model electronic distributor. Then you never have to set the points again. :) This fixed several problems on my '75. Quote Link to comment
jaime.g Posted May 18, 2011 Report Share Posted May 18, 2011 The simple solution here is to throw the points dizzy in the trash and replace it with a later model electronic distributor. Then you never have to set the points again. :) This fixed several problems on my '75. I've started to research how I can get rid of my points dizzy or convert it somehow (76 B210 a14). I see on ebay there is a inexpensive kit to do this such as here, but I'm not %100 on if that will work well. It also states that it may require their recommended coil. I read on datsun1200.com today that I can use a 78 model b210 dizzy as stated here: datsun1200.com Was that what you were referring to? Quote Link to comment
king bee66 Posted May 18, 2011 Report Share Posted May 18, 2011 you want a 210 dizzy. there is one at the sa pick and pull; its only been there a month or so id check that out, plus you can pick up the coil while youre there Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 18, 2011 Report Share Posted May 18, 2011 It's easy. No need to buy an expensive kit. 1976-up B210s have electronic ignition. * 1976-1977 have a distributor with separate box about 6 inches square. You would need both. * 1978-1982 B210, 210, and 310 (FWD) all have the 'matchbox' distributor. Plug-n-Play. This is the easy swap. Get one at a wrecking yard for $35. Just make sure that any distributor has no play in the shaft bearing. That's probably what's wrong with your's, that or worn out advance bearings. Quote Link to comment
jaime.g Posted May 19, 2011 Report Share Posted May 19, 2011 i just took a look under the hood and there is no seperate box on mine, even though supppsedly my dad has always stated the year of the car is 76. i even had my neighbor confirm that umder the cap, points exist. i guess ill hit up p n p tomorrow Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 19, 2011 Report Share Posted May 19, 2011 i just took a look under the hood and there is no seperate box on mine That's right, there is no box under the hood. It's inside the passenger compartment. That's another reason why the matchbox type is preferred. * 1976 is low-energy. * 1977 & up are high-energy. I was wrong about the 1978, it's not the matchbox type, but it is high energy and works very well. Also not all 1976 have electronic ignition. Quote Link to comment
king bee66 Posted May 19, 2011 Report Share Posted May 19, 2011 indeed my 76 did have the separate box, i swapped it for a matchbox type 6 months ago. Quote Link to comment
jaime.g Posted May 20, 2011 Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 i went to pick n pull today and only found a 210 wagon which already had the dizzy taken from it. the body was decently straight with a very minor hit the right front headlight. the search continues... Quote Link to comment
king bee66 Posted May 20, 2011 Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 i have an extra thats missing a cap and needs a new rotor Quote Link to comment
jaime.g Posted May 20, 2011 Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 i have an extra thats missing a cap and needs a new rotor cool. if you are willing to part with it ill be glad to take it off your hands. is there any play in it? Quote Link to comment
king bee66 Posted May 20, 2011 Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 its in pretty good condition, ithas a bit of play and spins easily, it came off a dismantled a14 ive got, im actually trying to get rid of it so let me know if there are any other bits you might want. Quote Link to comment
jaime.g Posted May 21, 2011 Report Share Posted May 21, 2011 send me your paypal. address and how much. ill take it Quote Link to comment
jaime.g Posted June 30, 2011 Report Share Posted June 30, 2011 so... what year cap and rotor would I need to order for the dizzy you sold me? do you know? Quote Link to comment
king bee66 Posted June 30, 2011 Report Share Posted June 30, 2011 it was taken off an a14. im not sure the year but it shouldnt matter; zilla or df should be able to back that up for sure Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 30, 2011 Report Share Posted June 30, 2011 Generally the 'remote igniter' (dizzy with a separate box usually mounted in the cab) was used on all '78 vehicles with the exception of California where it was used as early as '76. All dizzys from '79 and up were the 'matchbox' type with the small box mounted directly on the side of the distributor. As far as I know either type were high energy output with special low impedance EI coils. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 30, 2011 Report Share Posted June 30, 2011 Generally the 'remote igniter' (dizzy with a separate box usually mounted in the cab) was used on all '78 vehicles with the exception of California where it was used as early as '76. All dizzys from '79 and up were the 'matchbox' type with the small box mounted directly on the side of the distributor. As far as I know either type were high energy output with special low impedance EI coils. My '78 620 required a plug gap of 0.038- 0.042" in order to take advantage of this 'hotter' spark. Quote Link to comment
hogboy52 Posted June 30, 2011 Report Share Posted June 30, 2011 If the car starts there is nothing wrong with the ignition. By changing the point gap you are just moving the timing by around 10deg. Set the points correctly and time it by moving the distributor. The flat spot is during the off idle or idle transition phase of the carb circuit. The idle jet has a very small opening and can clog quite easily. some carbs have a small brass cap on the top with the idle jet just below for this reason. Between the regular fuel filter and the carb there is a few feet of fuel line which if left sitting for a long time will deteriorate and when brought back into use will shed little bits into the fuel stream and make this problem re-occur. Quote Link to comment
BillM Posted September 4, 2011 Report Share Posted September 4, 2011 When you first said that you set your points to .15 I HOPE that you meant .015!! .15 is more than 1/8 inch and would give exactly the problems that you are talking about. .015 is about as thick as your thumbnail. BillM Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted September 4, 2011 Report Share Posted September 4, 2011 If the points are NEW, you can use a feeler gauge (0.018 inch is the spec up to 0.021 inch). If the points are used, use a dwell meter. The points will pit & crater during use, so a feeler gauge won't measure the electrical gap correctly. Quote Link to comment
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