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My Ratsun Datsun 521


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#41 DanielC

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Posted 24 April 2011 - 08:59 PM

On this page.

Front end body work.

Park lamp cleaning.

Bed rack removal.

Taillight ground issues.

Front wheel selection.

 

 

I also worked on the front park, and turn signal lights. Here is a picture of the left side. In spite of the body damage on this side, the amber lens has only one small crack in it. Very usable, dirty, but usable.
LeftFrontTrimOff.jpg

And here is the picture of the right side. It is dirty too.
RightFrontTrimOff.jpg

First, clean the lens.
Cleaning.jpg

And the trim.
CleaningTrim.jpg

Here is the lens and trim ready to use. Well, one lens anyway. I also had some park and turn signal metal bases, that were derusted, by electrolysis, lightly sandblasted, primered, and painted. The back side, I painted black. I had some black Dupont Centari i used. For the front, I used some "rattle can" fake chrome paint. Also, I had some already clean gaskets.
Lenstrim.jpg

Left side,
LeftTurnBase.jpg

Right side. I am missing a welded on bolt on the right side of this base.
RightBase2.jpg

So I took the previously cleaned and painted bases, and put the just cleaned lens and trim on the bases, with the screws. I used this grease, just a little, so it will come apart the next time.
ScrewGrease.jpg

I tested the lights. Here is a park lamp test
TestParkRt.jpg

And a turn signal test.
TestTurnRt.jpg

I also tested the left side in the same manner

I then put the mounting nuts on the turn signals.
MountNuts.jpg

And here are the turn signals ready to go on the truck.
TurnSigReady.jpg



#42 DanielC

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Posted 24 April 2011 - 09:08 PM

This is how I am cleaning the side marker light bases for the truck. There is also an old battery hold down half submerged in the soup.

Here is my "electrolysis soup"
Posted Image

The soup is using about 3 amps of current.
Posted Image

I also went through my stash of old air cleaners. Inside one, I found this.
Posted Image

#43 DanielC

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 09:16 AM

On April 25, I did some work not really picture worthy. Just making a parts list, cleaning some parts for side marker lights, put the radiator and heater back in the truck. I did get the heater water valve turning again.
Soon I will do a write up on Datsun side marker lights. A lot of different Datsuns use the same parts in the marker light, the only difference between different Datsun Models is the rubber base, and the length of the wires.
I also need some new screws for the fuse box. I may also research to remove the fusebox switched power from the ignition switch, to a relay.

#44 izzo

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 09:32 AM

Loving it Daniel. Always happy to see when you post in here. Keep up the good work.
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#45 DanielC

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 10:03 PM

Not all the work in getting a truck running again is glorious photo worthy work. such was today, again. This truck has no master cylinders, that work in it. The clutch slave cylinder is rusted solid. I grabbed a clutch slave from another 521 I have, it is unusable too, I think. I also have a broken emergency brake cable.

I am a member of Datsuns Northwest, at least I think I am current. I sent a E-mail to them, to find out my current membership status. I need this, because of the discounts on needed parts. I started to look up some part numbers, using this website.
http://www.carpartsm...20521Index.aspx

Also I am working on some issues with the title change.

Since I need a brake master cylinder, (and possibly brakes) I contacted MKlotz about disk braking this truck, and the master cylinder I will need to do that upgrade.

Finally, time for a parts run. Clackamas Auto, the obligatory new fuses, and a thermostat, and new lamps for the side marker lights. Little screws for the fuse box, no luck. Next stop, Coastal Farm, buy a 1/16 to 3/8 drill bit set, there are more bolts to drill out. Also bought a few extra smaller bits, the ones that break easily.

Then I got gas in my Aerostar, my daily driver, and that was only $68.00. Some other errands, and back home.

Still need brass #8-32 screws for the fuse box. I called Oregon Bolt. They can get them, but it will be a few days. Called Parkrose Hardware, they have them, but they are in Parkrose, in Northeast Portland, a pretty long way to drive, at $3.779 a gallon. Next, on a lark, I called a local ACE hardware, in Lake Oswego, and they have the brass screws. I drive down there, and get them.

I got home. I put the fuse box back together. I put some older used antifreeze in the radiator, and start the engine. It starts easily, but it is not idling OK, it wants to die if i let it go below about 1200 RPM. While it is running, it is also a little "rattly" in the front of the engine. I need to check the timing chain.

I still have no lights on the front of the truck, but I check the taillights. Taillights, check. Turn signals, (emergency flashers, actually, check. Back up lights, no. (did I forget to reconnect the reverse light switch on the transmission when I put it back in?) The brake lights, I check by just jumping the two wires going to the brake light switch. Right one is bright, the left, not. Other lights on the left side are glowing dimly. Need to check the ground on the taillights. Right side rear marker light works, the left side does not.

The heater fan runs. The windshield wipers do not. The temp gauge reads really hot, even though the engine is not.

And that is where I am tonight on this truck.

#46 DanielC

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Posted 27 April 2011 - 11:26 AM

YEA, Pictures!
This is the rack that is on my truck.
Posted Image
I do not really want it, but MicroMachienery has said he would like it. If he ends up not wanting it, it may become available.

It was bolted on to the top of the bed using 6 3/8 bolts on each side. How they got the nuts for the bolts under the lip of the bed, I do not know, but they were rusted, and could not be unscrewed. To remove them, I had to drill the head off each bolt.
I used these drill bits.
Posted Image
This drill bit set was less than $17.00, and worked really good.
I centerpunched the bolt head, in the center. No picture, maybe later,
I use old motor oil for lubricant when drilling metal.
I used the 1/8 drill to make a pilot hole, in a corded electric drill.
Then I drilled the bolt head with a 3/8 drill to remove the head.
Here is what remains of the bolts, from one side.
Posted Image
and here is a picture of the bolts gone from the rack, and the rack just sitting on the truck.
Posted Image

#47 oldskoolvws

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Posted 27 April 2011 - 12:06 PM

If you get reverse drill bit set, it sometimes makes life waaaaaay easier....


521 studs are different than all the other studs, Stud.


Collector of rarities....VW and 521.

#48 raggmann

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Posted 27 April 2011 - 12:24 PM

If you get reverse drill bit set, it sometimes makes life waaaaaay easier....


Left hand drill bits work good on screws and bolts into tapped material.
On his there were nuts so there would have been no advantage to the more expensive l/h bits.
The idea is that the bits will grab and in most cases un-thread the fastener.

I'm kind of partial to the rack.
I'm going to build one for my truck as I'm going for a "shop truck" look complete with door logo.
live like you ain't afraid to die and don't be scared, just enjoy the ride

#49 DanielC

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Posted 27 April 2011 - 01:03 PM

The problem is I could not get a wrench on the nut, buried under the lip of the bed. When the bolts were new, the nut could be lightly held, until the threads on the bolt caught it, and it did not need much torque to tighten, or unscrew.
After ten or twenty years of rust on the bolts, you need to hold the nut firmly to unscrew the bolt out of it.
I could turn the bolt and the nut would just spin with the bolt.
I could only get the tips of an open ended wrench on the nut, barely. I could not hold the nut firmly enough to get it loose.

The rack is just EMT tubing, and two "L" channels of steel sitting on the bed. There are adapters to go from a standard pipe thread, to a compression fitting on the EMT tubing.
There is flat steel going lengthwise to tie the EMT crossbows together.
I will go and take some more pictures of the rack construction details.

#50 oldskoolvws

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Posted 27 April 2011 - 04:52 PM

Now that's funny...An EMT rack. I was going to ask if it was regular Galvy conduit until I saw the pic of the compression fitting. I guess that would be an easy build with a hand builder and a Home Depot card....


521 studs are different than all the other studs, Stud.


Collector of rarities....VW and 521.

#51 DanielC

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Posted 27 April 2011 - 05:16 PM

EMT-Electrical Metallic Tubing, or conduit.
Or maybe just throw a olive green tarp over it, and put a red cross on the doors.

#52 skyblue

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Posted 27 April 2011 - 06:27 PM

there's something about that rack that is kinda sweet. maybe it's the rust.:P I don't need one but if i did it would be something like it.

#53 DanielC

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Posted 27 April 2011 - 06:34 PM

When I quit working on the truck electrical last night, I had this happening.
Posted Image

If you look really close, you will notice the reverse light glowing dimly.
Here is a better picture of that.
Posted Image
This is a classic symptom of a ground problem. What is happening, is the taillight frame is not grounding to the frame of the truck, and the brake light is using the reverse lamp to try to ground.

I attached this extra yellow wire to the taillight frame. The scrap piece of yellow wire was not long enough, so it is attached to a blue piece of wire, to reach the front of the truck.
Posted Image
I did this so I can measure the voltage between the taillight frame, that should be grounded, and the negative battery terminal.
I did exactly that in this picture.
Posted Image

I removed the taillight assembly, and added this additional wire on the frame of the taillight.
that is my finger pointing at the extra wire.
Posted Image

The other end of this wire was attached to the frame of the truck. there was already a small hole at the end of the frame, that I put a 10-32 screw through, and I also put a "star" lockwasher between the lug on the wire, and the frame of the truck. The "star" washer bites into the metal of the frame, and the lug, and makes really good electrical contact.

Here is a picture of the additional wire on the frame of the truck.
Posted Image

After doing that, this is what I had for brake lights
Posted Image.

And this is now the voltage drop between the taillight frame, and the negative of the battery.
Posted Image

But the fun continues. the reverse light do not work. I do have power at the reverse light switch, on the transmission, and have already used a test wire to jump the switch connections. Still no reverse lights. I am now tracing through the wire to see where I am losing the electrical connection.

#54 dat77sun

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Posted 27 April 2011 - 07:03 PM

glad this thing finally got sold and not parted out, and wow that is one clean motor inside, you got lucky there :D

my current 1982 720 4x4 build

http://community.rat...ld/#entry994991

 

my old 1984 720 4x4 build (R.I.P.)

http://community.rat...-720-4x4-build/

 

my old 1977 620 kc build
http://community.rat...7-620-kc-build/

 

 

the story of my 84 720 by SICK620

 

     Tyson felt the frosty wind flow through his grill and opened his headlights. He knew that according to the snow under his michelins, he had hit Colorado  Another trip, and once again towed behind big Bertha's smelly backside. Every backfire allowed Tyson to smell Bertha's cheap oil changes and rancid maverick gasoline. He knew there had been talk about him leaving, but he didn't know why. He had always been reliable, and to him it seemed they hadn't even really ran him. They had just hitched him up and there he stayed. A prisoner of the open road, how is that even possible Tyson thought. He had seen so much of the road yet so little. His tires were worn and he was old now, but he was still as fit as the Hardbodys and Tacomas. His brakes were still new, and so was his heart. The day came, and Tyson's title was signed over on his hood. Tyson wasn't sure what to think when the new man entered his cabin. All he knew was that the warm buns on his seat made him tingle, and when the man slowly inserted the key chills went up his drive shaft. Tyson exited the driveway and he knew what he had to do, He chirped his tires a little kicking rocks and debris on big Bertha's fat ass as he left under his own power..... The world now his to explore, Tyson loves to ride. He has seen the highway for far too many miles, and always would rather take a back road or trail. He wants to die being ran hard on country roads and mountain curves; and he never wants to see the backside of a Winnebago again! 

 

#55 DanielC

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Posted 27 April 2011 - 09:53 PM

I finally got all the lights on the rear of the truck to light up, to full brightness. I took the rear part of the harness apart, and had to use a jumper for a ground. I also jumped the brake light switch, and the reverse switch connections on the wiring harness. So, all then lights work, just not the normal switches for the light. I even have a license plate light. It had no bulb in it.
Part of the problem with the lights is the ground connection on the right side frame rail. Even though it was secure, it apparently was not making an electrical connection.

This truck has the hydraulic pressure brake light switch. It probably will get changed to one that works off the brake pedal. I also need to confirm that the reverse light switch on the transmission works, and repair the electrical connections on it.

#56 DanielC

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 10:43 AM

This is a post to send some props to Tdaaj. I bought some parts from him in 2008?

These were the front tires and wheels that were on this truck when MicroMachinery brought it here.
Left front.
Posted Image
Right front.
Posted Image

One of the parts I bought from Tdaaj was a rear axle. To move it around, he had these wheel and tires on it, a nice matched pair.
Posted Image
And
Posted Image
Does anybody recognize these wheels, and what they came off of? Is it possible to get hub caps for them?

Another wheel option is to use these wheels. They are stock 521 wheels, cleaned up, sandblasted, and painted white. A really bright white. If this truck was just about any other color than the Datsun 502 off white, the bright white wheels would work.
Posted Image

#57 DanielC

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 11:02 AM

More Tdaaj parts.

This is the hood that came with the truck. three of the four bolts are broken off in the hinge mount. It also has the struts not glued to the skin of the hood very well.
Hood top.
Posted Image
Hood bottom.
Posted Image
and here is another picture of the struts on the bottom of the hood.
Posted Image

This is one of the hoods I got from Tdaaj.
Posted Image
And the bottom.
Posted Image
Some of the struts are separated from the hood.
Posted Image
But this hood does have a few problems in the hinge area
Left hinge mount.
Posted Image
Right hinge mount.
Posted Image

#58 wayno

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 02:29 PM

1979 datsun 620 wheels

Posted Image

 

 


#59 thisismatt

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 03:41 PM

Nice, steady amount of work you're puttin in :thumbup:
I'm your huckleberry.

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These guys don't appreciate I'm broke

#60 mklotz70

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 09:02 PM

The bright white wheel and the rusted one like it are actually 320 or early 520 rims. I think the 320's were a bit narrower than the 520, but I'm not sure. The "tell" is in the shape of the reinforcement rib that point toward the hub. The 521's are rounder.
Great work!!!
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