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Icehouse

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plans for the red car: building a sr22 with ITB's

the wagon is back under the knife, took out the vg30 and building a vg34 for it.

 

Its a vg34? I thought it was going to be a 33, is it going to be EFI?

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nah its a vg33 bored out to use the vh45de pistons which makes it a 3.4L but when I talked to a machinist about the notches for the valves we both decided it wouldnt be reliable enough since the material left would be pretty thin. We then contacted JE and had custom pistins cut (retarded expensive :( ) and raised the compression to 10:1 (for putting it on the bottle). The bore size actually makes it more like a vg35 but I will just stick to the vg34 tag for now. Also I am going to use the Autronic that I just bought. I sold the old carb setup with my vg30 and that was the last distributor for carbs that Nissan Motorsports had.

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All fixed now, ready to roll!;)

 

 

Is that your green car? I remember you saying you wanted to upgrade the brakes but shit! I though you meant like zx or something, wow. Did you ever get a chance to dyno your car?

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Is that your green car? I remember you saying you wanted to upgrade the brakes but shit! I though you meant like zx or something, wow. Did you ever get a chance to dyno your car?

 

That is the green car. My only Datsun:eek:

 

I have been developing my "big brake kit" for a while and this is it. It is part 280ZX, but only the strut housing and hub.

 

No dyno yet. Trying to stick to one project at a time.

 

Once this is done, I will get a baseline pull, then start tuning. I have everything I need to build my own fuel and spark maps, then burn EPROM's. If I am successful at making more power, I will be able to duplicate it for others.

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Jeff, 2.5cm = an inch, that's a pain to remember so cm's work easier being math challenged. First things first, gotta replace the damn tires. Then I have to find some front springs, I want something in the 140-150lb range this time, maybe get the nose down a touch first? While I'm at it I have to do the ball joints, damn things are worn out and the bushings and bearings while I've got it apart as well as have the rotors turned and re oil the front dampers with 20w oil. Hmm... no camber/toe change huh, I think the way to go is to stack another leaf in there first to stiffen it up a bit (after I change the shocks of course)! You use blocks to lower the spring pack then Jeff? Does that stiffen the apparent rate any?

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The blocks are not a really good idea, well in the performance department, they amplify axle wrap and wheel hop. I know how you drive, you don't need to increase performance. We are going to for style :) I put a 3" on top of a 1" block, its been like that for 3 years on a daily driver haha. I am working on a better fix. The biggest problem with the wagon is: To slam a wagon the rear seat and tranny tunnel need to be modified for the axle and driveline. We are going to get is leafs rearked and do a little mod on the floor and tranny tunnel, add disks and put in some new shocks. Since it is his daily driver it is hard to do a lot of mods. We are working on it though.

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Heh, that's me stylin' in a 38 year old car ! Heck, the way I drive, doesn't matter much if it's lowered, you got me there, but, the suspension and steering is way worn out on this beast, so replace all that stuff first and then figure out the "Stylin'" part eh! If you're going to go through all that trouble rearched, why not just get new leaf springs made. I hear that it wasn't all that expensive and all you did was tell the guys what rate you wanted and at what height. If you have to modify the floor and tranny tunnel how low you guys going here?

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