mklotz70 Posted March 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 Thanks guys. I enjoy this kind of thing....now if I could just make a living at it so I could quit the one I have!! :) Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted March 25, 2011 Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 Wow Mike, want to do a Dana 44 from a Isuzu next? I have this idea floating around in my head. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted March 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 Maybe in a few months. :) Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted March 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2011 Well, it's pretty much done....at least my part :) We were both really pleased with the results. As the final check, I stood it on end on a flat part of the floor and put one of my 4' straight edges on the top flange. Doug measured close to the housing and out about 3'. The measurements were within a 1/16". We only checked toe in, but if that was that close, there's no way the other direction was too far off :) Our length was actually dictated by the spacing of the leaf springs. The over distance between the wheel mounting surfaces is a bit narrower than stock, but the springs kept us from going any narrower. Good thing we checked that!!! :) 1 Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted March 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2011 no clue what 7018 is. Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted March 31, 2011 Report Share Posted March 31, 2011 no clue what 7018 is. I think it a welding rod. Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted March 31, 2011 Report Share Posted March 31, 2011 A Stick Rod...I Guess You Used MIG :mellow: Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted March 31, 2011 Report Share Posted March 31, 2011 A Stick Rod...I Guess You Used MIG :mellow: TIG? Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted March 31, 2011 Report Share Posted March 31, 2011 That Looks Nothing Like TIG, It Even Has The Crater That Is Easily Gotten From MIG Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted March 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2011 MIG. I'm certainly not a pro, but it will hold. Hard to tell in the last pic, but I was getting pretty close to full penetration. Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted March 31, 2011 Report Share Posted March 31, 2011 Ok, See My OIC For Reference: The Black Arrows Shows Where You Got Penetration, The Bottom Arrow Got Good Penetration As You Can See A Little Hump From The Weld Burning Clean Through The White Arrow Is There You Needed To Get A Little Hotter, Maybe You Went A Little Faster Or Changed Your Angle Slightly But The Bottom Arrow Looks Like There Was No Penetration At All It Will Hold Great As Is, Just Food For Thought :D 1 Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted March 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2011 My "out of position" welding certainly needs some practice :) The white arrows probably point to start/stop points. If I do this again, I'll probably stand it on end and weld it in that position. Thanks :) Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted March 31, 2011 Report Share Posted March 31, 2011 That Looks Nothing Like TIG, It Even Has The Crater That Is Easily Gotten From MIG I know. I just wanted to sound like I know welding.. LOL! Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted April 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2011 We worked on it a bit last week....on the diff saddles specifically. I took more pics of last week, but things didn't go so well. I'm not against shows my mistakes, but I'm too tire right now :) Here's the end result...the carnage of last week. It also bent the drill chuck...yep, the machined main piece of the drill chuck itself! New keyless chuck is on it's way. This week went much better!! :) Next week, we should be welding the saddles onto the housing. :) Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted April 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 I think we're about done with the housing work at my place. I think Doug will be finishing it up and posting the finished pics :) We clamped up the saddles....lot's of measuring to make sure we were centered and spaced correctly. I used the digital level...I set the "alt zero" on the underside of the saddles, then we set the face of the diff housing for 4 degrees...90-4=86 :) Gave them some good tacks....then flipped it over and welded it. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 Nice, when does the diff get welded together? Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted April 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 It doesn't......he's got an LSD to go in it. :) Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted May 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2011 When Doug tried to put the rearend back together, it wouldn't go. We messed around with trying to straighten it. We figured out that the ends were bent down quite a bit. Until just now, when I got on here to post this and I saw the pics of the spring perches....it hadn't dawned on me.... the tubes shrunk when we welded the perches on!!! It's been driving me nuts trying to figure out what the heck happend. The housing was tweaked a bit fore and aft, which is what we were playing with in these pics. Once we put the axles in and saw what was going on, we decided it was best that he just pay the $75 to have Dutchman straighten it. They'll put in on a jig and heat it up. We could heat it here, but we can't accurately hold it. Oh well. Even though we didn't really get anywhere, I thought the pic with the port-a-power might give someone some ideas. :) Quote Link to comment
b210in Posted May 5, 2011 Report Share Posted May 5, 2011 great work. im doing the same thing to my datsun b210. i have an 85 rx7 rear end it came with disk brakes and lsd. i'm having my local axle shop cut it down and narrow it. is there any way that i could rent from you the cut pumkin and axle rod alignment pieces that you fabricated to have my local shop do my axle? they have never narrowed an axle like this. i will pay for shipping both ways and whatever you charge. im not going to narrow it till around this summer. any help is appreciated. you can see my b210 right here. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/9755-ca18det-in-by-bee-oh-yah/page__p__129501__hl__%2Bca18det+%2Bin+%2Bmy+%2Bbee%2C+%2Boh+%2Byah%26%2333%3B__fromsearch__1#entry129501 Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted May 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 We can chat about it....pm me sometime. I haven't paid attention to the mix/match of parts....you may want to chat with Doug too about if you have the same bearings and such. It might be best for you to buy the bar down there....it was only $65....probably going to cost about half that just to ship it one way because it's a weird shape. Quote Link to comment
Morrisun Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 Jr. I-beam, 65lbs. worth for straightening RX7 rear end. It's amazing what you can get in the back of a 1200 coupe! Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 ^^ Never Thought Of That Very Good Idea :D Quote Link to comment
RedBanner Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 When i made the swap in my b210 i just shortend the axle housing 4 inches( i think) and had a freind at woodys cut and spline my axles, i used a 85 gsl-se rear with disk and lsd, with the axle complete and the housing cleand of any bracketry i placed onto my leafs bolted it in and welded the leaf pads on, then i used the pan hard bar that came on the rx7 as a pinion snubber, when it was installed i towed it down to i-5 drive-line here in portland and he cut the drive line for me, i didnt mess with the pinoin at all and im woundering why you did? Just to make a jig for your outers? Great work by the way, you guys make a good team, i also tightend up my lsd by adding another disk, i didnt like how tight that made it so i took two disks and sanded alittle off of them, now its perfect exept i cooked my rear coolent seal in the old wenkel, time for a rebuild, again for the 3rd time since i got it Quote Link to comment
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